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Old 11-23-2009, 06:49 PM   #1
toy_spd
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Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

this is the DIY Valve Clearance Adjustment write up. do it at your own risk.
if you dont know what DOHC, tappet, shim, mean don't bother trying it.

*********you must have the Service Manual.*********

tools required
10mm
12mm
15mm
sockets and wrenches
#2 philips
std size screw driver.
T allen wrench set. or sockets
torque wrench
feeler gauge
make sure your gas light is on, makes tank removal much easier.
bike has to be cold.

i assume you have a mechanical understanding of bikes, tools and terms, so i will not baby step this. if you follow this and fuck up your timing, valves will hit your pistons, and that's your fault.
__________________________________________________ _____________

start by putting you bike on the rear stand. prop up your tank, and remove the side fairings. it helps out to remove the entire upper cowling, 2 bolts 12mm and one main harness plug and it all comes off.



dont forget to remove the underside faring.

once you have all that off remove your gas tank.
unplug the electrical harness, and main fuel line. remove hose that is at the rear of the gas tank, and remove the 2 hoses located next to the fuel pump.


you can see the 2 pipes coming out of the tank at the top of this pic.

tape off the tbs so no dirt gets in there.


working on the bike with out any fairings or front upper makes it much much simpler to work on.



next remove the Pair valve system there is a 10mm bolt holding it. access it from the front side of the bike, its under the frame. behind the frame neck.


remove the 2 bolts holding the radiator.



once you drop the radiator, it makes it much easier to pull the electrical wire harness out of the way. at the same time, remove the rectifier horn assembly.


unplug the electrical harness from pull it out of the way toward the throttle side of the bike.
here i shoved the harness into the air ram hole in the frame, but later i pulled it out the side of the frame. and the same time i pulled the coil packs

once the electrical is out of the way, you can now remove that plastic thing that was in between the radiator and the pair valve system.
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Last edited by toy_spd; 11-23-2009 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:49 PM   #2
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

now that it looks like this, you can now loosen the tb's and slide them towards the back of the bike
also remove the 4 spark plugs. it helps to have tables to set things on and keep everything organized.


now that it looks like this, you can now loosen the tb's and slide them towards the back of the bike
also remove the 4 spark plugs.

once the tbs are out of the way, put some rags so that stuff dose not fall into the intake chamber. at the same time remove the valve cover. remove the 6 screws holding it in place, pull up on the valve cover, and slide it towards the front of the bike. there is not much room in there so be patient. you will need to push the radiator down to get enough clearance to get the cover out.
this is what the underside of the valve cover looks like.
my bike has only used Mobile 1 full synthetic oil. the inside is clean with out any sludge build up.

once you get it off you will see the DOHC's and reed valves.


now the engine will be out of timing, so you will need to spin the motor and set it to the timing marks. on the right side of the motor, remove the inspection cap and you will see a line in the gear. using a 15mm socket spin the motor and bring the mark to the rib that is on the inside of the cover.
spin it, clockwise.

you can see the line on the gear, and the notch sticking out on the cover.

now that it is at the timing mark. go look at the cam lobe position, look at the engine form the left side, look at the last lobes of the cams. they are ether pointing in or out.

if they are in then these are the valves to check

if they are out check these valves


here you can see how i slide the feeler gauge in between the cam and the tappet.


try different gauges and slide them in between the cam and tappet. it has to be a smooth feel. try a ticker gauge untill you feel the it get stuck, then go back the the smaller size and check it again. once you have it. write it down.

it helps to have a drawing and you can just write in the readings you are getting. they have to be with in the specified range:

Valve clearance (when cold):
Standard: IN. : 0.08 – 0.18 mm (0.003 – 0.007 in)
EX. : 0.18 – 0.28 mm (0.007 – 0.011 in)


when you are done, you should have a sheet with 8 numbers on one side and 8 numbers on the other. ones for intake side and ones for exhaust side. this is called MEASURED VALVE CLEARANCE

if all the readings are in the specified range, then you are done. and reassemble everything back together and go ride.
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Last edited by toy_spd; 11-23-2009 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:50 PM   #3
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

if they are not in spec follow along.

rotate the crank, so that the number 1 on the exhaust cam gear is parallel to the cylinder head. the one will be pointing to the front of the bike. at the top of the cam the number 2 will be pointing straight up.
on the the intake cam, the number 3 will be pointing straight up.


depending on what reading was in spec. and out of spec. will determine if you need to remove both cams or just one.
i put a zip tie on the intake cam gear and chain. to hold the chain up and in place. my exhaust cam was out of spec.


now that you have the timing marks set remove the cam chain tension adjuster.


when its out you can check it and make sure its not getting stuck.

now go back to the top and you will remove the camshaft journal holders.

look at them and look at them very well, there are numbers on all the bolts that you see.
Be sure to loosen the camshaft journal holder bolts evenly by shifting the wrench in the descending order
of numbers.

i started in the outside and criss crossed toward the center, doing 1/4 turns until the journal holder bolts came loose. one they were all loose, i put them on a shop cloth in the order i took them out.
once they are all out. you can remove them journal holders

DO NOT USE A PRY BAR OR SCREWDRIVER to pop up the journal holders. this will take some time but gently pull up on each one. and they will eventually come out. it took me about 20-25 mins to get both of mine off, they were on there really tight. when you get them out, note the location of the dowel pins.

when you pull them out remove the reed valves and inspect for carbon build up.
i was working on the exhaust cam so i left the intake cam in place.


using a magnet pop out the tappets and keep them in order to their corresponding location.


flip the tappet upside down and you will see the shims on the inside.
i didn't snap a pic of how they look as i removed them. but this is what they look like

take them out and measure the thickness using a caliper, this reading is called PRESENT
SHIM SIZE write it down next to the MEASURED VALVE CLEARANCE number.

now that you have all the readings, go to the manual and open it up to the page where you have the
shim selection table for the intake side and the exhaust side.

HOW TO USE THIS CHART:
I. Measure valve clearance. “ENGINE IS COLD”
II. Measure present shim size.
III. Match clearance in vertical column with present shim size in horizontal
column.
EXAMPLE
Valve clearance is 0.23 mm
Present shim size 1.70 mm
Shim size to be used 1.80 mm


write down all the sizes of shims that you need and go buy them if you don't have them already.

when you get the new ones, coat them in oil. and place them in the corresponding locations according to what you wrote down. i used the magnet to hold it in the center of the tappet while i put them back in there spot.

now that you have all the tappets back in, its time for the cam shaft.
coat the cam in oil and gently put it back into place.

slide the timing chain over the cam sprocket.

from the arrow next to the 3 on the intake cam gear, look at where its pointing.
its pointing to a rivet in the chain. now count 12 rivets towards the exhaust cam
the number 2 arrow on the exhaust cam should point to the 12th rivet in the chain.
adjust the chain accordingly to get it into place.

once its in place i used zip ties to hold it in place.


at the same time the crank bolt has not moved and is still in place

now that you are sure everything is set, its time to reinstall the journal holders
set them on top and press them down by hand.

once they are all the way down by hand, put back all the bolts you took out and kept in order.
put them back in their corresponding location.

get them all on there by hand, then use the ratchet and socket to get them in place.
i did 1/4 turn, criss crossing them. or you can follow the numbers and tighten them in order starting with number 1 do a 1/4 turn, move to number 2 do a 1/4 turn and so on. when you get to the end. start over, once you are all tightened down snugly, get the torque wrench out and torque to spec.
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Last edited by toy_spd; 11-23-2009 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:51 PM   #4
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

now that the cam journals are all in and tight, you can reinstall the cam chain tension adjuster.

press the clip on the side and press the adjuster all the way in.
then put it back in its spot. if you ripped the gasket, get a new one, i did not and i chose to put it back in the same way.

notice what when you put the adjuster in and it is all tightened up, the slack in between the cam gears is gone.

and now cut the zip ties off. once its off, rotate the crank several times slowly to make sure everything is on correct, nothing should bind.
once is all good, and you have rotated the engine a few times, set the timing marks again check the valve clearance again. everything should be with in spec.

once that is done,
put back the valve cover. and install the spark plugs.

put back the plastic thing you took out.

put back the pair valve system and put back the electrical and put back the throttle bodies.

reconnect everything you unplugged
reinstall the gas tank and air box


once everything is connected, start the bike. there should be no unusual ticks or rattles, no leaks or loose connections.

you are now done.

congratulations you just checked and adjusted valve clearance.
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Last edited by toy_spd; 11-23-2009 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:51 PM   #5
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

write up is all done feel free to comment, or ask questions

Last edited by toy_spd; 11-23-2009 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:52 PM   #6
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600


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Old 11-23-2009, 10:13 PM   #7
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

Wow, this looks like a great write up! Can't wait until it's all done!
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:48 PM   #8
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

sooo... group valve check at my place?
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Old 11-24-2009, 03:29 AM   #9
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

Nice job.
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:20 AM   #10
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

Sticky
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:51 AM   #11
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

Excellent write up. I may be trying to tackle this over the winter. Question for you, how long does this take to perform approx?

Reason I ask is that I've never tried it and when I asked the local dealer how much to check the valves and he's like "well, that's a 6 hour job at $75 an hour". So I can obviously think of alot better places to spend $450 than that. Not to mention I'm not entirely sure on their level of mechanical proficiency either (but then I pretty much feel that way about nearly all motorcycle repair shops).
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:52 PM   #12
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

this took longer because i was taking pictures, and going out to get parts and i did it over 2 days.

braking it down,
1 hour to get the bike naked, no tank, and the electrical moved out of the way. valve cover open.
1/2 hour to pop the cover and check the valve clearance.
2 hours to get to remove the cams, tappets and shims and put back together assuming you have all the shims you need already. i had to run out and buy them. this added time.
1/2 hour to put the bike back together. tank, fairings

so thats roughly 4 hours total, having all the parts there and no need to go out and buy new parts.

it may go faster for some, it may go slower for others.
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Old 11-24-2009, 03:41 PM   #13
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

I know this is specifically for the K6 600, but thought I would add a few notes
for the K7 750 riders who might use this as a guide.

I'm not sure if it's both 2007 models or just the 750, but my cam chain
tensioner is different than the one you have pictured. It's shorter in length,
doesn't have that tip on the end of the extension rod and is a bit harder to
"shrink" back down to size to get it back in the bike. The manual does offer
a good way to lock it in it's retracted position (or just ask if you want more
details). The tensioner on mine had a detant that loosely holds everything in
the retracted state. I screwed with this many, many times because I was
worried it wouldn't free itself (the manual suggests turning the motor
backward by hand until it releases the tensioner).

I put my shims directly on top of the valve stem. I might be misunderstanding
the way you did this, but it sounds like you placed them inside the tappet
before placing that back over the spring. Putting them right on top of the valve
stem, you have to be careful so you don't drop the shim into the engine, but
this way you know it's centered and you don't have to worry about it falling out
when you put the tappet back on.

I was limited on space when I was working on my bike. I didn't have a good
way to look in at the timing marks. I got everything close to lined up, but I
found it to be easier to line up based on the trigger that senses the teeth on
the gear down in the timing hole. (I'll post a link to the picture later when I'm
home).

Great write-up.

Last edited by cryotank; 11-27-2009 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 11-24-2009, 04:21 PM   #14
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

Quote:
Originally Posted by cryotank View Post

I put my shims directly on top of the valve stem. I might be misunderstanding
the way you did this, but it sounds like you placed them inside the tappet
before placing that back over the spring. You do have to be careful so you
don't drop the shim into the engine, but this way you know it's centered and
you don't have to worry about it falling out when you put the tappet back on.
i centered the shim on the tappet, then it was held in place with the magnet i used to remove it.the magnet was then moved when the tappet was fully seated on the valve spring.


can you post a picture of the tension adjuster on the 750s? mine looks just like the one in the manual.
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Old 11-26-2009, 11:21 AM   #15
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

Quote:
Originally Posted by toy_spd View Post
can you post a picture of the tension adjuster on the 750s? mine looks just like the one in the manual.
I was trying to upload the pic I have for the sensor but got the big FAIL. I can
e-mail 'em to you if you want. The picture I took of it in it's retracted state
actually has it retracted too far (you're only supposed to push it back to where
it catches on the outermost spring).
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Old 11-27-2009, 11:21 AM   #16
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

you cant attach it to the post?
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Old 11-27-2009, 11:33 AM   #17
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

Quote:
Originally Posted by toy_spd View Post
can you post a picture of the tension adjuster on the 750s? mine looks just like the one in the manual.
Am I the only one who has trouble posting pictures to this site?

This is the crank trigger that gave me better assurance that I was in line
with the pointer that's cast into the cover:
http://www.gixxer.com/photopost/show...php?photo=4973

Here's the tensioner...I have this pressed back too far. You're only supposed
to compress it to that outer spring. This wouldn't catch initially so I had to
mess around with the spring until it caught as it should.
http://www.gixxer.com/photopost/show...php?photo=4974
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:29 PM   #18
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

Here are two pages from the manual that also help with the visual on the tensioner. I
guess this is only the way the 750 is set up, which surprises me...I thought they'd moved
to a lot more similarities between the 600 and 750.
http://www.gixxer.com/photopost/show...php?photo=4975
http://www.gixxer.com/photopost/show...php?photo=4976
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Old 11-27-2009, 03:17 PM   #19
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

thats interesting, i thought they were the same
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Old 11-27-2009, 08:20 PM   #20
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Re: Diy Valve Clearance Adjustment K6 600

1 question....

How was the engine out of timing only after removing the valve cover? so lining up the mark on the crank with the little nob...is suppose to be the correct timing setup for the bike to run?
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