Motorcycle: 98 600, cams, head work, APE, black pwdr coating,Kerker full,Fact pro,K&N,520 conv,undrtl
Posts: 237
Bike is weak until warm
whats up fellas i gota 98 600 with 33,000 miles and DONT wanna take it to a shop unless i know the problem or cant fix myself. I start the bike with choke when engine is cold no matter what the weather, let it warm up to 150 on choke then I can ride. If i try to take off at 125 itll wanna die n run rough if i give it gas it may stall or be hesitant to rev up, at 120 i can turn the throttle a 1/4 and it will rise up some then jump to that appropriate mark after holding it there for moment. But when she is warm she responds great on the throttle when in neutral or riding. DONT KNOW IF IT HAD A VALVE ADJUSTMENT i put semi NEW 97 carbs on there with my 98 jets and it runs better than before. Dont know the symptoms of bad valve settings but with the engine warm it seems like I am missing the power that it should have. carbs are super clean I have ran in the past 2 months 3 cans of seafoam through it with no smoke, Carbs were in PERECT condition when i got them. I talked to a trustworthy mechanic i think and he priced me at $600+ for a valve adjustment but he promised at lest 15% more horsepower.
Anybody got this problem GSXR-FREAK whats do you think??? Does not have the power to pop a wheelie (DONT WANT TOO) in any gear, give you a good jerk thats about it. when i start it with the choke i have to let it idle with the choke or it will die till like 150 take it off choke and it will idle on its own, SOMEBODY HELP yalls input may save me $800 or so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Motorcycle: 98 600, cams, head work, APE, black pwdr coating,Kerker full,Fact pro,K&N,520 conv,undrtl
Posts: 237
Re: Bike is weak until warm
naw i sure didnt synch them, i have a factory pro racekit and did not want to even attempt to put it on due to the lack of instructions and the slew of jets they threw in the pack, like a BIG guessing game. never done a valve check before or even taken the magnesium cover off. its almost like the bike has to warm up and build up pressure, a boot leg mechanic that i know said i need to run a compression test cause i most likely got a cylinder or 2 thats down thats why it needs to get warm to build compression. I am going to try the pilot jets 1st. thanks for the advice :
Download the service manual that is linked in this forum...
The valve check is really easy. If you have a few that are out of spec, it could cause a big part of your problem.
Since your able to keep the bike running with the choke on until warm, I would say that your running lean. The more the bike warms up, the less fuel you need. So I would say that a good hand at that jet kit would be a great start. I would bet if you e-mail the factory pro support, they would give you a starting point for your setup.
John
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99 GSXR750, yosh full race pipe, TRE, Tail light int., 180 rear tire, Almost Illegal Racing suspension, -1 front +3 rear sprocket, flush mount turn siganls, cut fender, 55,000+ miles!!!, Brembo Radial master, 4 pot brakes, balanced crank
Motorcycle: 98 600, cams, head work, APE, black pwdr coating,Kerker full,Fact pro,K&N,520 conv,undrtl
Posts: 237
Re: Bike is weak until warm
ok got another question i have a TRS yoshi can and K&N filter 98 600, my carbs A/F screws still have the brass plugs in place. SHOULD i turn those screws out and how many turns??? will that fix my lean problem at idle and cruise. Next question is looking into buying a stage 1 dynojet kit and the main jets are smaller than the ones that i have on the bike already i have stock at 135outer 132.5 inside the jet kit comes with 2-126's, 2-128's, 2-130's, 2-132's with 015 pilots. Can i just buy the next size up pilot jet and pop it in there or do ineed to adjust A/F screws with the new pilot jets.
and wont those dynojet main jets lean me out?? dont wanna mess up the settings or screw things up I am CONFUSED
Well. That bike might need less fuel in the top end, but more in the bottom mid...
I would refer to dynojet on that one.
Just turning the a/f adjuster would not likely be enough. Changing the pilot jet would help, but that is not really going to take care of the mid range.
I would say that stage 1 might even be a little on the small side. You might need to look into a stage two if you have the pipe and filter.
Again, I would refer to dynojet on that to make sure. They did spend the time and money to make it work.
John
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99 GSXR750, yosh full race pipe, TRE, Tail light int., 180 rear tire, Almost Illegal Racing suspension, -1 front +3 rear sprocket, flush mount turn siganls, cut fender, 55,000+ miles!!!, Brembo Radial master, 4 pot brakes, balanced crank
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and K&N filter 98 600, my carbs A/F screws still have the brass plugs in place. SHOULD i turn those screws out and how many turns??? will that fix my lean problem at idle and cruise. Next question is looking into buying a stage 1 dynojet kit and the main jets are smaller than the ones that i have on the bike already i have stock at 135outer 132.5 inside the jet kit comes with 2-126's, 2-128's, 2-130's, 2-132's with 015 pilots. Can i just buy the next size up pilot jet and pop it in there or do ineed to adjust A/F screws with the new pilot jets. 
They did spend the time and money to make it work. 
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