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Old 04-22-2008, 01:45 AM   #1
ZaXoS
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SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes. DIY

Although not experiencing it (maybe 3-4 times in over 2 years) I have been reading about the herky jerky and TPS fix or masking. So I wanted to throw my 2c.
Some people claim if you move it between the middle -C00 and upper position it fixes the herky jerky.
So I tested mine today. (factory setting, never touched it and don't experience the jerkiness)
When I turn on the bike it is on high
When it warms up with correct idle (about 1200rpm) it moves to the middle.
When I ride with dealer mode is the most interesting thing.
When I pull on the gas or cruise it is on high.
When I let go (decelerate) or pull in the clutch it is in the middle.
It never goes to the bottom.......it should never go to the bottom. If it does there is your problem

All in all this makes be believe that the people suggesting to have it in the middle with a tendency to go up are correct, and that must be the correct setting to resolve to abrupt fuel cut off that creates the herky jerky to some.
Also, if many suspect the SDTV as a problem for the herky jerky, why isn't anyone adjusting the STPS? I will post a picture with correct settings as well.
Subject #2
I got the SET valve code (-C46) a few times since dewinterizing it and noticed the valve was not moving all the way.
Although the old trick (loosen the bottom cable 2-3 turns) that I had suggested had worked for a couple years for me and many others, it was time to do it professionally.
Sorry no DYI pictures but I will post what the manual says. In the past some told me that it look very complicated, and I will admit on paper it looks that way, but it is not.

Pretty much there are 2 harnesses coming out from the SET valve motor.
On the one connect a volt meter (positive on yellow and negative on brown/black) and look at the readings. (that is the 3 wire harness) Make sure it is the back side of the connector, not the side towards the motor, those are different color wires.....see picture
Disconnect the other harness (2 wire) and apply 12 volts to it. Take it with 2 wires form the battery. When applying one way the set valve closes completely. (12v+ on the pink wire) then immediately remove the power to the motor and look at the volts from the other harness where you have the volt meter connected. You need to turn the bike on for that, including the kill switch to get the correct reading. If not OK adjust the top cable.
To adjust in open position, just give 12v to the other wire and negative on the pink wire), same procedure but adjust the bottom cable only this time.

Closed should be between 0.5v and 1.3v -----I did mine at 0.95v
Open should be between 3.7v and 4.5v ------ I did mine at 4.1v


You adjust the volts by adjusting the wires next to the motor. The top cable is very sensitive....be patient and careful
Obviously this is the resistance the motor has to sense to stop moving. Mine was at 4.5v open and 1.2v closed, obviously very close to the end of specs so any discrepancy (usually happens when the wires get hot or the exhaust expands....that is why most people see the FI after restarting the bike when hot) would read wrong, the valve would not fully open or close and the FI light would come on.
The results are GREAT, perfect movement and power from the bike.
Yes it will take you 30 minutes + removing the cowl, but like I said no more FI light, smoother throttle response and great performance results.
My guess is that most are not adjusted to perfection form the factory and that is why many see the FI light, or claim that disabling the SET gives the better performance.....it does not in both conditions the valve is fully open (if adjusted right)!

Here are the pages from the manual.....don't be intimidated, it only looks complicated.
Another note, to adjust the wires, give a little opposite 12v power to the motor so it loses the wire, then open or close fully and check again.
When all done and checking the calibration process, mine was showing 1.84 volts when the motor stops so just under half way open before you start the bike.

Edit: The second adjustment was performed today after another 7500 miles. Numbers were close, closed was 0.88V ...I adjusted it to 9.5v and 4.11v for open. After the calibration process the reading now was 1.77volts.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tps#.jpg (55.5 KB, 9915 views)
File Type: jpg EXCV1.jpg (82.4 KB, 9752 views)
File Type: jpg EXCV.jpg (74.0 KB, 9698 views)
File Type: jpg set.jpg (42.9 KB, 6787 views)
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Last edited by ZaXoS; 04-22-2009 at 01:20 AM. Reason: Too may people inquiring details. Added details and picture
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Old 04-22-2008, 10:10 AM   #2
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

Interesting observations. Before I adjusted my TPS when I turned it on it was at the bottom. Once warmed up it fluctuated between bottom and mid. Fixtit now and said goodbye to the throttle craziness. The only thing I fault Suzuki for is that thing should throw a fault when it's off.
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:33 PM   #3
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCunningMan View Post
Interesting observations. Before I adjusted my TPS when I turned it on it was at the bottom. Once warmed up it fluctuated between bottom and mid. Fixtit now and said goodbye to the throttle craziness. The only thing I fault Suzuki for is that thing should throw a fault when it's off.
Is there a thread your a step by step on how to adjust the TPS. My roomates GSXR 600 have a very bad throttle delay. Would like to see if this fixes it.
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:22 PM   #4
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

I'll put that on my to do list for this weekend, right after The Superbike Challenge Saturday and Sunday
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:16 PM   #5
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

I disabled my SET valve by removing the cables and cutting the wire.

I did it by the directions provided my yoshimura and their full systems.

I have to say that in my case, big difference.
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:34 PM   #6
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

I rode my bike today for about 4 hours straight as yesterday it was only a 5 mile test on dealer mode.

I have to say that the bike is a different animal now. At least according to my ass dyno. Extremely impressed. Faster, more powerful and smoother. No abruptness and no delays either.
The bike pulls like crazy from 4K to up to 8 or 9K....good torque.
After 11K to red line it is insane.

All in all all I did is adjust the SET properly
Earlier this week I enlarged the drilled holes in the cat (3 of them) from 3/8 inch to half inch. Which made it even louder and better flow than before , but the insanity showed today after proper adjustment of the SET.
If you have the time and skills I highly recommend to at least test your voltages on the SET motor.
If that does nto work you can check the TPS if it is not in the middle and then go up as you ride. It should be easy to adjust, just loosen the screw and tap it in either direction.
I hear the best setting is somewhere between 1.15 and 1.25 volts at idle.
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Old 04-24-2008, 03:40 AM   #7
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

SET? just take it off.... now that's good flow.
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Old 04-24-2008, 12:26 PM   #8
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

Why don't you take off the SDTV then? That would be better flow !
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:13 AM   #9
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

I recently adjusted the tps to the high position.I have noticed that sometimes when i reduce the gas while riding i hear sometimes the exhaust <<blowing>>.You know like the sound that makes when there is unburnt fuel ....Has any other experienced this?
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:18 AM   #10
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

of course your throttle position indicator (the -c00) moves up when you move the throttle, and goes back when you close it. That is what it does . Also when you first start the bike it is high because the fast idle is on for a few seconds, then goes back to normal idle. Completely normal
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Old 05-01-2008, 02:07 AM   #11
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

Yes

the point is it never goes _C00
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:38 PM   #12
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

I'm going to try this the next day I have free (and isn't raining). Just to make sure I'm interpreting these steps correctly, does this sound about right:

1. Remove right side main fairing (to adjust the EXCVA No. 1 and No. 2 cables) and remove the right side tail fairing (to apply 12V to the EXCVA motor and probe the position sensor to get the readings).

2. Apply 12V + to the A terminal (pink lead wire) and - to the B terminal (gray lead wire) to set the EXCV to its fully closed position. I'm guessing you only want to do this for a few seconds and stop applying 12V once the motor is closed (I'm also guessing you will hear when it's fully closed?).

3. Once the EXCV is fully closed, turn the ignition to the ON position and measure the position sensor output voltage which should be between 0.5 and 1.3. Adjust it to around 0.9 by turning the No. 1 (top) cable adjuster.

4. Apply 12V + to the B terminal (gray lead wire) and - to the A terminal (pink lead wire) to set the EXCV to its fully open position. Again, only apply a few seconds or until you hear it fully open?

5. Same as step 3 except you're looking for 3.7 and 4.5. Adjust it to around 4.1.

6. Put everything back together and all should be well.
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:09 PM   #13
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

My bike sits at _COO at start up, and idle. Maybe I will adjust it and see if I notice any difference in anything. The set procedure sounds like a pain.
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Old 05-22-2008, 01:16 AM   #14
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

Yeah , adjust the TPS and let us know. I never see it in _00C and i do not have the herky jerky problem, it is even smoother than my friends R1.

The SET takes about 20 minutes........but the results are great.
I am convinced that from the factory they are adjusted towards the limiting the power.

Eluzion: you got it
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Old 06-01-2008, 08:06 PM   #15
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

I adjusted the TPS and wala!!! Perfect running bike. Thanks for the write up. It worked as I hoped it would. Smoother, no more jerking around at a steady rpm.
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Old 06-01-2008, 09:01 PM   #16
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

Also I've noticed for those with Pc3's is if you reset the throttle positions with engine on (e.g on dyno) the idle value will be 8500 or so causing abrupt throttle response. When the throttle positions are reset with the engine off and just ignition on, the idle value drops to 8000 and when riding it's a lot smoother.
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:31 AM   #17
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neogix View Post
SET? just take it off.... now that's good flow.
im with you.
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:30 AM   #18
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

Quote:
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im with you.


OK, the million dollar question !

Why don't you take off the secondary butterflies then?

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Old 06-03-2008, 02:52 AM   #19
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

because the secondary throttle butterflies are used to control the intake flow. The SET valve is for the exhaust flow. if you change the exhaust flow you will be having a relatively small effect on the mixtures, removing the STVA and it's associated butterflies will have a HUGE effect on teh way the bike runs, and run like crap it will. As well as throwing all kinds of lovely error codes.
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:55 PM   #20
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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes.

Well I will have you know that when SDTV first appeared (before our model) people were removing them for better flow.
Essentially, if you have seen it work, it is like 4 SET valves on top of your intake. IN addition it works in synchronicity with the SET valve. Also does the same job as the SET, restricts flow to smooth out the engine.

So the question again for all of you removing the SET for better flow, why not remove the intake extra valves for better flow and better weight?
You don't need 8 butterflies for 4 intakes.

Cryptk is saying that the mixture will change. That is true as it does with the SET, the computer will assume the butterflies are restricting and only throw so much fuel. By removing them you are allowing more flow and hence a leaner mixture that will eventually burn your exhaust valves. But if someone had a PCIII......then why not remove all electronic valves to make it faster and lighter?
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