First, I have read most of the electrical posts and did not find anyone with the problem im having. Ok heres the deal, I recently purchased a used stator, new aftermarket rectifier and new battery and still have an issue. Ok the battery reads 12.4 before i crank it and when I crank it, it goes up to 14+ volts. Now when I hit the gas and go to around 5k, the power goes down to 13 and steadily decrease as I give it more power instead of going up. I thought the power is suppose to increase when you hit the gas. Does anyone know what it could be? Any help would be very appreciated. Thanks, Devin
nope that what I was thinking. Well let me tell you the full story. I bought the stator first and it still wasnt powering up, and put it in with the bad rectifier and it ran for about 10 seconds and it cut off. A lot of smoke came from the rectifier and thats how I figured it was the rectifier. I think the bad rectifier I had somehow damaged the new stator I purchased. however, I looked at the stator and it doesn't look burnt like the first one I replaced
First, I have read most of the electrical posts and did not find anyone with the problem im having. Ok heres the deal, I recently purchased a used stator, new aftermarket rectifier and new battery and still have an issue. Ok the battery reads 12.4 before i crank it and when I crank it, it goes up to 14+ volts. Now when I hit the gas and go to around 5k, the power goes down to 13 and steadily decrease as I give it more power instead of going up. I thought the power is suppose to increase when you hit the gas. Does anyone know what it could be? Any help would be very appreciated. Thanks, Devin
What does the battery voltage do when you go back to idle? Does it go back up to 14+ volts or stays low?
Sounds like maybe the regulator is doing something funky. Did you replace it with OEM? New? Used?
Seems to me that if the stator is putting out 14v at idle its going to at higher rpm too. I'm just guessing, but a stator seems like a pretty simple generator. Either it works or not. Regulator on the other hand is a bit more complicated...
Can you rev the bike up and test output directly from the stator before it goes through the rr rather than at the battery? That should tell you which component is whacky
That is strange. I was thinking that something was failing as it warmed up but that does not seem to be the case.
If it was my bike, I would do the stator test (checking AC voltage between the 3 pairs of yellow wires) and see if that also varies with rpm. It should go up with rpm and be 65+ volts at 5000 rpm. If that checks out normal, then I'd go with the R/R also.
ok yea thats what I was going to do. One quick question about testing the stator. Does the negative end go in the wire at the top of the prone and the positive goes in one of the bottom two prones?
Also another thing and I dont know if this have anything to do with the charging issue. I received the C26 code on my dash and is buying a used throttle body assembly..would athat have anything to do with the bike not charging correctly?
c26 has nothing to do with the throttle bodies. Maybe you mean c28 and if so you don't need to buy throttle bodies. The STVA is doomed to fail, it will happen eventually on any set of throttle bodies, getting a new one is not a permanent solution. You can easily repair the STVA you have. Either way it has nothing to do with the charging system.
yea I meant the C28 and I took off the STVA and will try to repair it. The problem is i cannot get the little silver rivets that hold the STVA together. I tried removing it but I kind of broke the plastic and think I may have damaged it further. Thats why I was going to just buy a new one. They on ebay for around $100 bucks. Just wanted to make sure that didnt have anything to do with my electrical issue
ok yea thats what I was going to do. One quick question about testing the stator. Does the negative end go in the wire at the top of the prone and the positive goes in one of the bottom two prones?
If you are doing the running test, it does not matter, you are measuring AC voltage. The polarity is not important.
If you are doing the resistance test, it still does not matter.
You are checking between each of the three yellow wire pairs (three checks)
You need to buy some machine screws to hold it back together after you drill out the rivets. They're gonna be destroyed. Even if the plastic is a little damaged the servo should work just fine. There's a ton of write ups. My phone is being retarded but when I get home I'll link you. Alternatively, TheGeek will fix your STVA for you for $75 IIRC. Search eBay for STVA repair
You need to buy some machine screws to hold it back together after you drill out the rivets. They're gonna be destroyed. Even if the plastic is a little damaged the servo should work just fine. There's a ton of write ups. My phone is being retarded but when I get home I'll link you. Alternatively, TheGeek will fix your STVA for you for $75 IIRC. Search eBay for STVA repair
yea i seen some writeups on it...exactly how you drill them out?!? Do you just use one of the bits that you use to cut through wood/metal. And I was thinking about paying the geek but I'm pretty handy with a solder gun and if I pay that much I might as well pay 20 more dollars for a functional one off ebay. I'm just a hardcore DIY type of person
Location: CALIFORNIA, LOS ANGELES..ktown. 10 minutes from hugo
Motorcycle: K8 GSX-R 600
Posts: 1,088
Re: NEW Charging issue
the voltage doesn't have to necessarily go up when giving throttle.. the regulator is doing it's part by not over charging the battery. if you're at 12 volts prior to cranking and after cranking somewhere between 13.3-14.8 volts. you're fine. don't be too sketchy as this will drive you crazy. every little thing draws some power.. if you have your bike cranked over.. check the volts.. then turn your high beams on the voltage will drop down.. now rev.. the voltage will go up...
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