Motorcycle: (3) 1st gen 750's; (2) 1st gen 1100's; 90 7/11; 05 RMZ-450; 83 Honda CB1000C; 78 Yamaha DT 175E; 89 HD 883 Sporty; 98 KX250; 85 ATC 125M; 04 Polaris Predator 500; and a few kids quads.
Posts: 10,195
Re: Repairing body work
The repair I made with the Oatey stuff was a real big crack that needed a backing because the plastic had to be heated and bent back into shape. It was a part that should have been trashed and, in fact, was when I got it and experimented with it. I actually ended up using that part on my bike and nobody really noticed the repair too much. It does work good, but Plastex is better.
I work in a body shop and used Duramix 4247 to repair all my plastics. We use it on most plastic repairs. I repaired some large holes and even molded one of the tabs that hold the rear under the seat. The tab was gone! Has a twenty second work time so you have to work fast! It bonds like nothing I've ever seen. The best advice I can give with plastic repair is not to overheat your plastic when grinding or sanding the repair areas. The heat brings resins to the surface of the plastic and makes whatever glue your using bond poorly. Duramix or Sem both make great products for these repairs.
I have been using a product called "epoxo 88" for years now. My friends dad used it in the aviation industry. I have repaired many things with it without a failure.
Last year i repaired a 93 front fairing that split across one side of the fairing. The bike was susequently crashed later in the year and the front fairing was destroyed.
But...the repair held up and didn't break.
When i run out of the epoxo, i'm going to try the plastex as Long recommended but this epoxo 88 is good stuff as well!
Oaty works great,(Mixed it with some finely ground abs scraps) I used it to repair 1/2 hole and tons of deep scratches in my lower after a lowside and to fill some screw holes from aftermarket front turn signals that I no longer liked. Some time oaty bondo and a bit of time combined with elbo grease and the results are unoticeable today, never tried the Plastex stuff but sure wish it was around when I made my repairs.
Motorcycle: (3) 1st gen 750's; (2) 1st gen 1100's; 90 7/11; 05 RMZ-450; 83 Honda CB1000C; 78 Yamaha DT 175E; 89 HD 883 Sporty; 98 KX250; 85 ATC 125M; 04 Polaris Predator 500; and a few kids quads.
Posts: 10,195
Re: Repairing body work
I made some repairs with that Oatey mix before and it does work pretty good. But for ease of use, there are better products out there. The Plastex is great, but can be expensive for large holes or repairs so I'm still looking for alternatives to do large repairs.
Hmmm I was gonna order a small kit of the plastex stuff, but it looks like I won't be able to do it online... no friggin blanks for Canadians/rest of the world to put their address in for shipping/billing...
For real? Plastex is a Canadian company. Did you try www.plastex.ca ?
I use a product called PlastiFix Poduct #2501 this is the same stuff as Plastex
Works better than anything I have used in the past!! By a long shot!! If you have a hard time on line find an automotiv paint supply shop they will have it. Its amazing what you can do with this stuff. I wish it was around when we were still racing with stock bodywork!!
Does anybody know what happened to Plastex? I can't find their website and the only plastex products I can find are on eBay and the sellers shipping charges are brutal.
Take it to a plastic welder and get them to weld the cracks and damage. My god I hate it when people take to their plastic fairings with glues, epoxy's and fiberglass. The ONLY way to repair it properly is to plastic weld it.
Lets say you have a crack in your frame or swing arm. You would repair it by aluminum welding it I hope? Not an epoxy or glue.
Motorcycle: (3) 1st gen 750's; (2) 1st gen 1100's; 90 7/11; 05 RMZ-450; 83 Honda CB1000C; 78 Yamaha DT 175E; 89 HD 883 Sporty; 98 KX250; 85 ATC 125M; 04 Polaris Predator 500; and a few kids quads.
Posts: 10,195
Re: Repairing body work
Sorry, but you are talking about two entirely different things. Welding involves the use of heat to melt materials together - this works well with metal. Plastic welding works, but not as good as chemical BONDING of the plastic. I've done both, and I also TIG and stick weld, and all I can say is, Plastex has saved a bunch of stuff that would have otherwise been unsable. Let those who have the cracked plastics decide which method to use. Personally, I hate it when people try to stick thier plastics back together with a soldering iron. If you haven't had any experience with it, your opinion matters little. Plastex is NOT an epoxy or a glue.
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Sorry, but you are talking about two entirely different things. Welding involves the use of heat to melt materials together - this works well with metal. Plastic welding works, but not as good as chemical BONDING of the plastic. I've done both, and I also TIG and stick weld, and all I can say is, Plastex has saved a bunch of stuff that would have otherwise been unsable. Let those who have the cracked plastics decide which method to use. Personally, I hate it when people try to stick thier plastics back together with a soldering iron. If you haven't had any experience with it, your opinion matters little. Plastex is NOT an epoxy or a glue.
Totally disagree on that one. I never said weld it with a soldering iron. I have been plastic welding, panel beating and painting for 15 years now and NOTHING beats welding it properly. You may have had bad experiences with it from people doing a poor job. I am not saying these products don't have their place, they do for sure. What I am saying is if you want a proper job then get it plastic welded by a professional. You will find it's quite inexpensive too.
to remove the bondo the dumbass po used to repair his fairings, what is the best way to go about this? I tried grinding it and smashing it but its a bitch
to remove the bondo the dumbass po used to repair his fairings, what is the best way to go about this? I tried grinding it and smashing it but its a bitch
I have used Oatey black ABS cement on a small crack with great results so far (20k miles). I was told that the cement is abs plastic melted in a carrier and that once the carrier evaporates you effectively have the same thing as an ABS weld only a lot cleaner. I also know someone that did major repairs with plastex and was very happy witht he product.