Motorcycle: (3) 1st gen 750's; (2) 1st gen 1100's; 90 7/11; 05 RMZ-450; 83 Honda CB1000C; 78 Yamaha DT 175E; 89 HD 883 Sporty; 98 KX250; 85 ATC 125M; 04 Polaris Predator 500; and a few kids quads.
Posts: 10,195
Re: Plastex repair kit endorsement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by old gsxr
iff you put a piece of masking /duct tape on one side of hole and lay the hole flat you can fill it up,
Yes, but if the material is thick, you may want to fill some of it up with fiberglass. I did that to one of my uppers I was working on this weekend. I took some before pics, but no during shots yet. I suppose I could do it right now... if only I weren't so lazy. Also, it's supposed to be that clear packing type of tape. I used it on the same upper to create a contour and an edge. Works rather well actually.
Motorcycle: (3) 1st gen 750's; (2) 1st gen 1100's; 90 7/11; 05 RMZ-450; 83 Honda CB1000C; 78 Yamaha DT 175E; 89 HD 883 Sporty; 98 KX250; 85 ATC 125M; 04 Polaris Predator 500; and a few kids quads.
Posts: 10,195
Re: Plastex repair kit endorsement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew5
plus i can't wait to sand that horendus red pinstripe off.
To say nothing of the wood patch...
Okay, yeah, I know it must be in the background, but it sounded funny.
Almost forgot, don't lose that part that broke out, you can actually "glue" it back in with this stuff and it will hold. You "v" the edges on both the broken part and the lower itself and then tape it in place from the outside and fill the groove with Plastex from the inside. Once it dries, you do the same to the outside. The wider the groove, the stronger it will be.
I figured I would dust this thread off... I ordered up a standard kit and let me tell you, this stuff is THE BOMB. I have used all sort of different products to fix abs fairings and this blows them all away. Easy to use, grinds easily and at the same rate as the plastic to clean up your repairs and STRONG. I'll post up a few pics tomorrow of a couple of the small repairs I did tonight. Thanks for the write-up Long, without you and the search bar I never would have tried this out.
__________________
If someone annoys you it takes forty-two muscles in your face to frown, BUT it only takes four muscles to extend your arm and bitch slap that mother f**ker!!!
i use the stuff too with great success. BUT just 1 thing though
wear a resperator when using this stuff IT WILL BURN YOUR LUNGS AND THROAT.
i learned the hard way now i have permanent scar tissue in my lungs and throat.
you have been warned.
i use the stuff too with great success. BUT just 1 thing though
wear a resperator when using this stuff IT WILL BURN YOUR LUNGS AND THROAT.
i learned the hard way now i have permanent scar tissue in my lungs and throat.
you have been warned.
Makes the lines of it harder to snort if you have a respirator on , dummie!
Here is the first time using it, you can see its not perfect but I am well pleased with the out come. I found a doner upper and cut out the piece I needed for my nice upper.
After reading this thread and a few others Ive ordered the standard plastex kit. Ive got a few cracks in a fairing. Hopefully it gets here this weekend and I can test it out.
Motorcycle: 1 lame car, 1 cool car, 1 cool bike. Zero clutter -_-.
Posts: 37
Re: Plastex repair kit endorsement.
Looks like some great stuff. Also are there any other alternatives? I need to glass-mesh a left broken upper ear now ( in 3-4 bits ) & the whole bike in next winter, incl some ex-owner shoddy repairs.
Check out www.urethanesupply.com (USC) for a multitude of plastic repair products and precedures, including the methacrylate PlastiFix, same thing as Plastex above. Wiki says methylacrylate has an acrid odor, toxic and is primarily used to make synthetic carpet fibres so it can't be that bad!
Anyways Suzuki uses rigid black ABS with varying additives for most fairing and plastic bracket parts (not for 85/86 front fenders they are polyurethane). I have had poor adhesion and cracking problems with my ABS fairing crack repairs using methacrylate resin so I usually hot-weld it instead for more toughness so you can bend it like the original without busting it. I have had success w/ methacrylate repairs where it doesn't need to be very flexible - reattaching fuse-box tabs, tail tabs, etc. That said, methacrylate can be used to repair cracks if you make & fill a shallow V on both sides like the OP said, maybe make it thicker on the back to help or put some SS or fibreglas mesh in the glue.
Here's USC's recommended repair methods for ABS:
1 - hot weld (hot air or electric heat gun w/ ABS rod and/or sheet stock)
2 - Methacrylate (for rigid repairs)
3 - cyanoacrylate (ie crazy glue, very rigid repairs, no flex)
4 - 2-part epoxy (Bondo kit etc, can handle some flex but sands poorly)
Note you must clean/prep the ABS extremely well (solvent then soap then acetone) if you are using a glue as they must bond to the existing surface. You can be a little less finicky with hotwelding as it burns volatile crap off and melts new ABS into the existing ABS in the process.
No connection with USC but I use their stuff. I have lots of broken fairings.