not resistors you need to swap the signal.. one could use a micro chip that is basically a bunch of not gates i think.. been a while since i thought of it. look in the posts i was playing with a relay to do it then thought a mc would be better
the signal has to be swapped for the fuel light to work... easiest way to explain is the micro controler in the clocks looks for signal from upper and lower sensors. Its no voltage or 12v. so you need to swap the signal from the sensors to the clocks. when the clocks is expecting to see 12v your sensors are actually supplying no signal. you could use a microcontroler that is a simple chip with gates in it.
To swap from kph to mph you need to hold the 2 selection buttons on the clocks i think. they will swap between.
99 750 srad.... my other hot blooded woman
This is one of my first posts, I usually get info from all of the specialist in this forum but never have something to offer.
So here I go, what I’m shearing is not my knowledge that I’m offering but this is a very interesting thread but it seems like a long battle lost.
Check this on our causing site: http://www.tlplanet.com/forums/showt...t=88709&page=7
For what I understand this Joe solves the issue, at least for the Fi units. It also make a k5 gauge work!!! And if I’m not mistaken already tested in a Fi Gixxer.
Hope this revives the battle and we can finally win this!
My apologies for OT, but does anyone have stock gauges for SRAD 750 96' and is willing to sell and ship them to Croatia (Europe).
My gauges are destroyed and I need Tachometer at least
Is there a way to connect tachometer directly to the ECU or ignition coil?
Circuit board is fried but tachometer looks fine. It has four pins (sign on circuit board is cos+ , cos- and sin+,sin-), all other tachometers I have seen have only three wires (+,- and signal from ignition coil).
Can someone help me out with teh fuel level lights? I can run relays, but I'd rather have something that consumes less power won't be affected by a harsh ride (bumps)... I've got no fear of a soldering iron, but I am not an EE -- tell me which parts to buy/how to connect, and I can follow the schematics/instructions... I figure I could use a few transistors to get this done, but no clue which ones.
to sort the Fuel Light issue, you need "pull-up" resistors for each of the fuel wires. iirc the Y-k1 clocks had 2 fuel sender wires (A and B) and the k2-k3 had a single fuel sender wire. so depending on your clocks will depend if you need to wire a pull up resistor for fuel A and one for fuel B sender or just for the one wire that will be use.
**the Y-K1 bikes used a FLLR (fuel level light resistor) which was the pull up resistors for the 2 fuel sender wires. But you could make your own pull up from a resistor on each circuit connected to 12v (will need to check what the ohms is)
i'm in the mids of programming an arduino to sort out the Temp/Error light issue due to clock not receiving the data information from the ECU. The bench test is working so far and i'm waiting for a few bits to start making up to attach to the bike. so i can do a direct plug in to my clock harness so i dont have to re-pin my harness plug.
The FLLR from a Y model
using some open coding from some peeps over on an SV forum, someone wrote a code to send the clock a temp number manually programmed into the arduino coding
someone did some coding for there SV project and i added the coding needing for the GSXR clocks and also allow it to getting a reading from an analog input on the arduino board which in turn was connected to the thermistor
After talking with a local gsxr rider, I got a teensy board, and some code and wired it into a 2001 750 gauge. the one thing I didn't sort out is the fuel level issue. Some posts say to use a set of relays to fix the fuel light; other posts say I need a resistor. What is needed to put a 2001 gauge in a 98?
Y-K1 600/750 used an external FLLR (resistors) so you need 2x 70 ohms resistors iirc from the book, both coming from a 12v + feed and then one goes to the fuel A wire and the other goes to the fuel B wire and they pull up the signal high.
i'm not to sure about the k2-3 600/750 as they never had the external FLLR so i dunno if there was something in the clock and also they only had the one fuel sensor wire