Say you were like I was with no idea on how to run a nitrous system. I had zero idea. I could wire it all up, thats the easy part. But how not to kill yourself or your bike was the shit i had no idea how to do or what to do.
So since no one made a thread yet, i took it upon myself to do so.
Do I have to Build my motor?
Best kit to use?
What all Do you need to not blow your shit up?
CLUTCH?? Always a biggy, do you upgrade or leave it stock?
Spark plugs? Colder? Hotter?
Do I need a tuner?pc, bazzaz?
Do i have to stretch my bike?
What gear to spray in?
When do I need to hit the spray?
All these questions were ones I had.
PLEASE READ THIS PART
I have not set up my dry nitrous system yet. So any actual technical questions about setting it up like directions, i may not be able to help 100% but ill do my best. And ill update the thread with info as much as possible and when i do install ill post pics.
Building your motor. Now ive been told the 30 shot will safely run on the k7/k8 gsxr 1000. Other bikes im not sure on so i would search to find out. But for the k7/k8 you dont have to build your motor but if you want to then by all means have a hay day.
What kit to use? Now I bought the MPS Dry nitrous spider system. its about 500$ It has 4 nozzles instead of one that spray into each intake stack.
You can use the Standard 300$ kit from mps but it only has 1 nozzle that you place in your airbox.
MPS comes with just about everything you needs for the nitrous parts. comes with directions on wiring it yo your horn or flash to pass button. the bottle, the nitrous kit. (all youll really need is the map switcher, programmer, spark plugs, cltch kit or springs, etc)
28(20hp),32(30hp),36(40hp) Safely im going with the 32 jet which is a 30hp shot. Ive been told the shot amounts are pretty legit on hp output. 30= really does put 30 to the wheel.
Now ive been told on numerous occasions that 30 shot will run fine on my stock 07 gsxr 1000 motor. Ive got all the bolt on stuff but i havent built the motor at all. But if you want ive been told upgrading your head gasket wont hurt.
Clutch. Oh i was so worried about the clutch. like i had no idea if i needed a whole new clutch system if stock would be fine or what not. Ive been told stock is ok for short term but strongly recommend uswing 3-6 hd springs(stiffer springs) or upgrading the clutch completely. You dont want slippage when on nitrous because as soon as it catches up up and away you go.
DO NOT USE HOTTER PLUGS.
Id use colder plugs and i bought CR9E but you could probably also run cr10e which are a step colder.
YOU DO NEED TO HAVE A AIR/FUEL CONTROLLER FOR TUNING. DOESNT MATTER WHAT YOU HAVE YOU JUST HAVE TO HAVE ONE.
Stretching, fuck that. You can if you want but i just wanted to have some sneaky peat in the back seat to vroom vroom. Of course your more likely to wheelie. but hey just dont slam er down and blow out ur forks seals and youll be set.
(for non stretched bikes)You can spray during any gear you want but its strongly suggested not doing it in 1st or 2nd because youll definitely be flipping over. when i can stand the bike up in 2nd with power alone at 80mph nitrous will flip you over.
Depending on your gearing, speed, etc spraying in 3rd can be good or bad also.
4th gear is a good gear but id strongly suggest you hit it in 6th first, see how it acts, then 5th, see how it acts, then 4th if you think it wont flip the fuck over.
When to spray. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT SPRAY ANYWHERE NEAR REDLINE, You dont want to be redlining when your spraying because that will destroy your motor. Its so bad for your motor i cant even begin to put it into words.
OldGixxer(Info Given) You will need to install a RPM Window switch to shut off the nitrous incase you miss a shift or anything causing you to hit redline. ll cut off the nitrous to keep you from destroying you hard earned money.
You can spray just about whenever, some drag racers with quickshifters will spray in first. or they will start in 2nd or 3rd and spray on launch. I will never spray in 1st, 2nd, or probably even 3rd.
For dry kit, top of the bottle needs to be angled down as low as possible. and bottom needs to be up.
YOU HAVE TO HAVE A ON-THE-GO MAP SWITCHER FOR THE PCV OR PC3 OR WHATEVER YOUR USING.
MPS sells the map switcher.
Map Switcher = For regular driving use. Youll need a map not set up for nitrous so you have your regular power map and a nitrous map. For instance put the new plugs on. Get it dynod without spray to the most power you can get. Thats map 1. Then get it dyno tuned for spraying nitrous(itll be a lesser hp tune) but adds more fuel when your hitting the nitrous.
You cant have the same tune for both. Well you can. if its a nitrous only map. But you cant run nitrous on a dynod map for your bike without nitrous or youll blow something up or itll run like shit because its not adding fuel when it needs to or itll add to much.
On the go map switcher means you have your normal non nos map running at all times. then when your going to spray the nitrous switch to the nitrous map by flipping the switch then hit the nitrous.(ITS LITERALLY JUST A SWITCH YOU MOUNT TO YOUR CLIP-ONS.)
YOU CAN HIDE A 1 POUND BOTTLE IN THE TAIL SECTION OF A 07-08 GSXR 1000 BY CUTTING A FEW THINGS.
If you have any questions feel free to ask, and people out there using dry nitrous if i have something wrong here please feel free to let me know so i can add info. Thanks!
Last edited by Paintballer95; 12-06-2012 at 03:04 PM.
To be honest. my 06 750 keeps up pretty freaking well with 1ks. ive beaten a 08 cbr 1000rr on my 750 in a straight. lol. But id say a 20 shot would run fine. ive beaten the shit out of my 750 on the track and its never blown up yet. lol then again it doesnt have nitrous but the motor is a beast.
What are you going to use to shut the nitrous off in case you hit the rev limiter? You will destroy your engine with a missed shift or whatever causes you to tag the limiter while spraying. And what is a titanium headgasket? Never heard of one of those
I appreciate your enthusiasm but you havent installed it and dont have any actual experience with it so Im not exactly sure how good some of your suggestions are. Dont take it the wrong way but its not exactly advice Id follow
Im mostly going off what MPS has told me for parts needed on installing for the 07-08 since they had one in their shop at the moment i actually asked. They never said anything about that. And one of my drag buddies never actually specified on the nos, he just said dont hit it close to redline.
And sorry didnt even mean to put titanium head gasket just meant install a upgraded head gasket. car days are coming back to me.
Thanks Old. And yeah, I know ive no experience. But there wasnt a thread, numerous have asked questions about installing and shit needed. And some with no recieved feedback and ive been told before on other topics that if its not made to do some research and make it. So here I am. I did put a disclaimer saying i hadnt installed it yet and havent ran it yet and if im wrong on some stuff to let me know and ill change it. Im just trying to better influence the newer people to nitrous like i was before i started contacting people to get the better knowledge for the beginner steps of running nitrous.
07-08 also have the ability to use the ecu as a window switch. Activation of the system can be set at any rpm with any throttle % if desired. Can also be shut off with the ecu to stay away from any high rpm issues. ( missed shift, hitting rev limiter) From everything i've read, with a safe tune, you can spray a 40 shot on the 07-08 with major mods. Beyond that, valve springs, head gasket and studs will be a smart idea. I also just bought the mps spider kit myself and am currently waiting for it to so up. ECU editor will be replacing my PC3 for tuning as it is far better for controlling everything that the bike is doing.
i wouldn't recommend doing anything less than what i have. a 27,000 mile motor lived for over a year running it. it's almost guaranteed not to blow your motor up unless you do something stupid like remove and turn your airbox lid around with the spray bar still attached causing all the nitrous to leak into 1 cylinder rather than distribute evenly when sprayed. lol.
I'm trying to get all my info together to set mine up for spray over the next off season. I've had a ZO6 I sprayed and had it set up with all the safety features. It was set up so that all I had to do was arm it and when the wot switch, window switch, and fuel pressure safety switch (wet kit) were all happy the circuit would close and it would spray. I don't seem to see anyone setting the spray up to activate on the wot and window switches on the bikes, most people seem to be incorporating the wot and window switches but still activate it off a push button (horn or starter). Why is that? I'm thinking it's so they have a cheap way of gear lockouts. I'm wanting to set mine up without the push button. I'll only be spraying on the strip so I plan to hit it in first. Can any of you guys give me a good reason not to set it up that way on a bike?
There are Nitrous users that have many safety features with their setups. You can have a WOT switch the turns the spray on at a certain rpm and shut off before redline. You can also have the nitrous shut down if the A/F ratio goes too lean.