Sounds like the battery isnt holding the charge. I had to replace my battery yesterday. Take it to a shop where they can do a load test on the battery and see if the voltage stays above 12V at 5amps. If the charging voltages from the Regulator/Rectifier and Stator is okay then it has to be the battery. Also, if you only ride short distances all the time, shorter than 5miles, the battery will ge knackered after a while as its not fully charging. Cranking a bike takes almost most of the power fromyour battery. Good luck, hope you solve the problem. FIY the battery code should be YT12A-BS.
The stator is the alternator that generates electricity, the rectifier converts from AC to DC and regulates the current. If the rectifier goes out one of two things happens, it does not charge the battery or worse, it cooks the battery, blows fuses and can damage the ECU. K6/7 have known rectifier issues and fried rectifiers are common as I previously stated. Maybe take it to a shop, you say the stator tested fine but you want to buy a new one?
I was just out of ideas on what to do for the bike. I figure if it I can't figure out which one it is then maybe just replace all of them. I will get it to a shop soon to do a load test on the battery. Do you guys think I might have some bad wires or anything like that? Maybe the battery is just going bad.
What would be "charging" the battery after the bike won't start?
Its just like a regular alkaline battery in a flashlight. When the battery is dead, you can let it sit for a while and try to turn it on again. It will barely turn on and be very weak. Im guessing the bikes battery works similar to this
Take it to your nearest dealership or even a vatozone to test the load. It should be free and take no more than 2 minutes. Just take them your battery.
Came out of retirement to "catch" for a bunch of 20-24 year old men!
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Jersey
Motorcycle: 2004 GSXR 600
Posts: 7,887
Re: Stator or battery going bad...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swank
What would be "charging" the battery after the bike won't start?
If the bike is cranking over then it's prob not the battery. When batteries go bad, your lights tend to work and your fuel pump will prime but there won't be enough amps to turn the engine over. But to answer your question nothing will "charge" it which is why we put batteries on tenders when not being used for extended periods of time. I'm still staying it's the rr
I took the battery out today and had a load test done on it. The battery tested fine it just needs a charge, which I'm doing right now. Then I'm going to check the stator by starting the bike and unhooking the positive terminal on the battery. Apparently the bike should keep running. Besides checking the connections do you guys know of any other ways to check the stator and rectifier?
I took the battery out today and had a load test done on it. The battery tested fine it just needs a charge, which I'm doing right now. Then I'm going to check the stator by starting the bike and unhooking the positive terminal on the battery. Apparently the bike should keep running. Besides checking the connections do you guys know of any other ways to check the stator and rectifier?
The best and most accurate way is to do it how its stated in the manual. However, you can also just open the stator cover to visually inspect the stator to see if its burnt. It will be faster and easier than using the multimeter, but it only works if the stator is burnt already. If it looks good, youll have to put everything back together and use the multimeter way again. Your choice.
This is how mine looked like
Just remember, if its not burned, youll have to assemble everything and use the multimeter. If you already have extra oil, it shouldnt take long.
Alright well then I need to buy an owners manual then. The ones I've found online are either not free or don't work for the Mac that I have. Thanks for pictures.
Okay so I but the battery in today, after charging it all night. I started the bike up and took off the positive side of the battery terminal and the bike died. I did that twice just to make sure. The second time the bike sort of ran and then died. I'm thinking that this means that my stator is bad. You guys agree?
Alright well then I need to buy an owners manual then. The ones I've found online are either not free or don't work for the Mac that I have. Thanks for pictures.
Okay so I but the battery in today, after charging it all night. I started the bike up and took off the positive side of the battery terminal and the bike died. I did that twice just to make sure. The second time the bike sort of ran and then died. I'm thinking that this means that my stator is bad. You guys agree?
Its a pretty bad idea to disconnect the battery while running as the battery serves as some sort of surge protector. Make sure you didnt blow a fuse.
If i where you, i would either check the stator and rectifier according to the manual, or i would take it to the dealer to get checked. Itll save you a lot of time and guessing, and you wont risk hurting anything else on the bike.
An alternator pretty much has a stator and rectifier built in, thus allowing it to output DC voltage straight out of the box. The stator only outputs AC voltage so it needs the rectifier to convert this into DC voltage and sends the extra voltage to ground regulating the current.
Theyre very similar, but its like comparing a whole car to just an engine.
Generators have permanent magnet rotor and a stator that generates electricty. The output is dependent upon a number of things but mainly on the rotational speed of the rotor. Higher speed = more output.
Alternator uses field coils (electro-magnets) instead of permanent magnet rotor of the generator. So now the output of the alternator can be controlled by regulating the current in the field coils so as the rotational speed increases the field coils can be energised less from the regulator maintaining correct voltage and battery charge.
Our bikes shunt the extra energy with the regulator and it is wasted as heat.
Alternator is more efficient as no excess power is generated and needed to be shunted (wasted).
Hey man im having the simular problems your situation sounds like mine
Zlow is great he helped me all the way and i fixed mine almost
you need to check your stator first of all I SUCK at anything to do with vehicles like when i say noob im a NOOB lol anyways i took of the stator and one of my coils were black so it was causing my battery to keep dieting BUT ZLow helped me out and i was able to test my stator with a multi meter thingy to determine that was indeed the problem
PM me or Zlow i can help you out step by step with some pictures if you want i actually might just upload them here for ya
Hey man im having the simular problems your situation sounds like mine
Zlow is great he helped me all the way and i fixed mine almost
you need to check your stator first of all I SUCK at anything to do with vehicles like when i say noob im a NOOB lol anyways i took of the stator and one of my coils were black so it was causing my battery to keep dieting BUT ZLow helped me out and i was able to test my stator with a multi meter thingy to determine that was indeed the problem
PM me or Zlow i can help you out step by step with some pictures if you want i actually might just upload them here for ya
Thanks for the kind words. I learned all this from other members in this same forum. Were all new at some point.
Anyway, if you have plenty of pics, you can probably make a write up on the whole procedure. You wont believe how many people come in with the same problem.
Im just waiting for my stator to burn out again so i can make a very detailed write up on how to check and replace the whole charging system. And lots of pictures Then just link everyone to that thread.
Thanks fellas. I have a new problem now. I bought a stator and was going to replace it but I ended up breaking a bolt in half. The bolt is on the left side of the frame in front of the stator. It attaches the frame to the engine. The previous owner had dropped it, worse then what he had told me, and the bolt mount is bent or for some reason the whole doesn't line up completely. What happened was I had dropped a plastic piece inside my frame and was trying to retrieve it. When I was going to put my left side frame slide back on, because I couldn't retrieve the plastic piece, the bolt broke. So I was thinking that instead of pulling the whole engine out I might use a dremel and take off about a 1/16 inch or less to retrieve the broken bolt. What do you guys think? I'll probably try and post this in the main forum too. Let me know thanks.
hey Zlow when you put your stator cover back on did you use any sealent? If so what kind did you use? I got a new gasket for the stator cover but didn't put any sealent on. I was looking over the manual and they recommended it.
hey Zlow when you put your stator cover back on did you use any sealent? If so what kind did you use? I got a new gasket for the stator cover but didn't put any sealent on. I was looking over the manual and they recommended it.
Yes, i bought new gaskets and i also added a high temp silicone gasket maker. It was a orange material, i think it was ultra copper.