Dont buy the vortex I broke 9 teeth on the last one I bought. I'm running a sprocket specialists rear now and it is running great. You dont have to change the chain as long as you buy the same pitch sprocket which should be 530.
Why Dont You Save Yourself 40.00 Dollars An Just -1 In The Front,basically Same Thing An You Can Move Your Wheel Back A Tiny Bit An Dont Have To Buy New Chain
Why Dont You Save Yourself 40.00 Dollars An Just -1 In The Front,basically Same Thing An You Can Move Your Wheel Back A Tiny Bit An Dont Have To Buy New Chain
No, not entirely true....-1 in the front is not really all the same as +3 in the rear.
A front sprocket with less teeth will work the chain harder and take away power, as the chain has to curl more to match the smaller diameter. Also, smaller sprockets can result in the chain working the suspension when power is applied.
+3 will also give you a shorter wheelbase, and a lovely large looking sprocket.
I would get +3 drive systems sprockets (made by AFAM) with a 520 ER chain kit (17/46). That's what I'm running....and from what I've heard, it's one hell of a strong sprocket. Contact Corey at MotoMummy....he just doesn't have the speedohealer. Good luck.
No, not entirely true....-1 in the front is not really all the same as +3 in the rear.
A front sprocket with less teeth will work the chain harder and take away power, as the chain has to curl more to match the smaller diameter. Also, smaller sprockets can result in the chain working the suspension when power is applied.
+3 will also give you a shorter wheelbase, and a lovely large looking sprocket.
I would get +3 drive systems sprockets (made by AFAM) with a 520 ER chain kit (17/46). That's what I'm running....and from what I've heard, it's one hell of a strong sprocket. Contact Corey at MotoMummy....he just doesn't have the speedohealer. Good luck.
Sorry mate but I find this very hard to believe. Going from a 17t front to a 16t front cog is going to make jack shit of a difference in the wear department, look after your chain with good cleaning & maintenance & it won't shorten the life of the chain or cogs/sprockets. I've done this on quite a few of my bikes & the mileage has been the same for the chain. If you want to go to less than 14t on the front cog you may start to notice a few things.
Where can I get a quality rear sprocket ( + 3 ) for my K7 1k?
I've heard the vortex are crap.
Also, will I need to buy a new chain if I do this mod?
That's not the best idea in the world. The K7's stock gearing is 17/43. The K5/K6 is 17/42. Going +3 on the rear of the K7 would give you a 46 tooth rear sprocket and you definately need a longer chain.
If you -1 on the front sprocket and +1 on the rear (16/44) it's basically accomplishing the same thing.
No, not entirely true....-1 in the front is not really all the same as +3 in the rear.
A front sprocket with less teeth will work the chain harder and take away power, as the chain has to curl more to match the smaller diameter. Also, smaller sprockets can result in the chain working the suspension when power is applied.
It will only put excessive wear on the chain if drop it really low, like 14 teeth or lower. A 16 tooth front sprocket is fine it does nothing to "take away power". If you don't have enough chain slack it can bind up the suspension as it goes through it's travel and tightens up the chain, this can happen no matter what size your sprocket is, it has to do with how you adjust your chain.
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+3 will also give you a shorter wheelbase, and a lovely large looking sprocket.
Large rear sprockets don't look lovely, they look silly.
I would run a 16t front sprocket. I wouldn't worry about chain wear as many with 16t's even run 15t. Now if you drop to 14t i would worry, but not with 16t. Many stock bikes even have 16t so i wouldn't worry about that.
Any of the sprockets we sell are hard anodized so the quality is good with all of them.
-1 in the front is equal to +2.7 in the rear and is generally cheaper and easier. Kaz I think DH was trying to say that a 46T looks better than a 42 or 43. Those stunters are probably around 60T and yes they look horrible.
Well for starters it will allow the bike to become more quicker out the hole. Then it was have an slight affect (not really much noticable) in the handeling as it will shorten the wheel base ( not that noticable) allowing for sharper turn-in's, and wheelie'ing potential
Well for starters it will allow the bike to become more quicker out the hole. Then it was have an slight affect (not really much noticable) in the handeling as it will shorten the wheel base ( not that noticable) allowing for sharper turn-in's, and wheelie'ing potential
Thanks for the explination. What are some of the down sides to changing sproket size ? I ask because I have a K7 with a TRE,PC,Taylor Made Exhaust , and a Bmc intake . I plan on getting it tunned this weekend but want to know that I am not missing out on any extra power that may be had . I do allot of roll races from 60mph .So in your opinion would it be benificial for me to change my sprckets ????
Down side to sproket change. (+3 in the back).
Shorter wheel base with stock chain.
Loss of top speed.
Buzzy feeling on the highway.
Speedo way off.
Get costantly pulled by the po-po for wheeling.
I am considering a sprocket change also. I planning on a +2. Post your results when you do the change.
I recently purchased new sprockets & chain for my K7 GSXR1000. Upon installing the rear sprocket I realised I had been sent out a 46T, not the standard 43T sprocket which I requested. After the initial 'face palm' and grumbling, I was about to mail back the rear sprocket, but thought to see what the forums said about it. This was the only thread I could find on a 17T/46T combo but wasn't very convinced after reading that I should keep it. I called a Suzuki Race Team workshop and asked their opinion. They happily explained for 20min the in's and out's of the 46T. They simplified it by explaining the sprocket ratio chart which settled it for me to keep it.
Standard Ratio of 17T / 43T is 2.53
-1 Front Sprocket (16T / 43T) ratio is 2.69
Standard 17T and the 46T rear ratio is 2.71
Obviously there is virtually no noticeable difference between the 16T/43T and 17T/46T (.02) and seeing I already had a new chain to put on, there wasn't an issue with fitment.
It also means at our local track at Phillip Island (Australia's GP track) I'll actually be able to use 6th gear now : )
While this a K7 thread I put a 47T on my K8. It is a Driven one. Going +4 in the rear I used the same chain. Had to put the wheel all the way forward to get chain on, but then still have plenty of adjustment. I ride Phillip Island and for my riding level, its a hell of a lot more fun as its obviously more snappy out of the corners and more front wheel in the air. I am just about red lining top gear now. I think once I get better and faster I may drop some teeth to get more top speed.
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