ffffffffffff got food poisoning or something again. Threw up for the first time in 7 years like 10 times and had the runs all better today psh glad thats over
ffffffffffff got food poisoning or something again. Threw up for the first time in 7 years like 10 times and had the runs all better today psh glad thats over
Slept 13 hours this weekend with a solid diet of energy drinks, cigarettes and rum. Im scared to take my next shit Got the dashes and steering columns out of both cabs, took of the old cab, wire wheeled the rust off the frame, was going to paint it but the cab mount brackets have to be welded on account of being thin. Heres some pics. Shits worthless without them
Oh and I took of the old seat cover and found an immaculate original seat
I know Ill have to remap. The Yosh header I had was basically identical to OEM, sans SET valve, and lighter.
this one collects different (4 to 1 vs 4 to 2 to 1) and is MUCH larger diameter from the collector back. That and that it is a standard system when my bike has always been tuned for a shorty it will need a tune.
sounds a lot deeper, and way different at idle probably due to the collecting order.
I didnt have a yosh. I had a yosh header. I had an M4 slipon, and before that a LEO slipon, on the Yoshimura header.
Hard to tell though just idleing or reving in my shop. It is deeper, but not sure other than that.
missed that no one has answered my thread but how I'd back pressure affected? Is it affected from your afr I was looking into making a custom pipe which I now am not because I am planning on getting yosh Japan from griffind. Anyways how important is how long the pipe is have to do with back pressure for instance if you made a shorty pipe come up onto the passenger peg do you just change the afr readings or is there more to it.