what is the best oil for my gixxer? what oil do you guys use? is diesel oil ok? what is the big deal about sythetic? if you are reading this thread, you either got called stupid and got told to use the function, or you are not retarded and figured it out for yourself.
linky: (CLICK THE FUCKING LINK! I DON'T CARE IF YOU SWEAR BY ROTELLA, READ THE FUCKING LINK)(edit-disclaimer: read post #31 before or after reading the link, he is a chemical engineer) http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
how about understanding oil instead of taking advice from faceless assholes like me or ironhead?
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"jesus christ ricky, a dope trailer's no place for kitty!"
Rotella t6. Best ever. 19 bucks and 4 dollar filter 23 for everything. Put over a 100k on zx14 using this. So it's defintally worth it shell Rotella t6
i purposely put common search terms so that when people did a search, they would find the thread, and then perhaps click the link. if i simply posted the link, the same old shitty oil debate would still happen anyway, so i thought search terms would be more helpful. the problem is that there are some people out there who will simply see the search terms, and think this is a debate thread. there is no debate needed, the link is the purpose. if a chemical engineer wants to pop on here and discredit some things in the link, i sincerely hope that they do, but this is not a troll.
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"jesus christ ricky, a dope trailer's no place for kitty!"
i purposely put common search terms so that when people did a search, they would find the thread, and then perhaps click the link. if i simply posted the link, the same old shitty oil debate would still happen anyway, so i thought search terms would be more helpful. the problem is that there are some people out there who will simply see the search terms, and think this is a debate thread. there is no debate needed, the link is the purpose. if a chemical engineer wants to pop on hereand discredit some things in the link, i sincerely hope that they do, but this is not a troll.
I'm here and reading it now. I knew that high faluting learning degree would be useful for something. I do not, however, expect to actually find anything truly inaccurate.
Your piston rings do not do a perfect job of sealing. Some combustion by products will slip past the rings into the engine. This can be little particles of carbon. Remember, diamond is carbon that was combined under heat and pressure.
The stupid is showing already. It doesn't matter one bit what else may include a particular element. Salt is half (by atom, not weight) Chlorine, does that mean it's the same as WW1 Chlorine gas chemical weapons? Fuck no. And the heat and pressure comment makes it sound like he thinks the heat and pressure of an engine will turn soot into diamond. The temperature/pressure for diamond formation would melt every bit of the engine block, and the pressure would crush it flat. At least do a magnitude check, damn it!
Motorcycle: 1994 GSXR 750, finally getting proper parts painted, 1993 GSXR 750 project to rebuild
Posts: 722
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidhar
First note:
The stupid is showing already. It doesn't matter one bit what else may include a particular element. Salt is half (by atom, not weight) Chlorine, does that mean it's the same as WW1 Chlorine gas chemical weapons? Fuck no. And the heat and pressure comment makes it sound like he thinks the heat and pressure of an engine will turn soot into diamond. The temperature/pressure for diamond formation would melt every bit of the engine block, and the pressure would crush it flat. At least do a magnitude check, damn it!
Damn and I thought I had a get rich quick scheme in my garage lol.
Also, if your gasoline has sulphur in it (it does), this sulphur can react with water and oxygen to make sulphuric acid. This is some stuff that is seriously bad for your engine. Your oil has special ingredients in it called buffers to neutralize acids. Finally, your engine can get internal build ups of tars, waxes, and other gunk. Your oil has solvents to try to dissolve this stuff and get and keep your engine clean.
Very little sulfur really, regulated to tens of part per million levels, and most of it is burnt in combustion to sulfur oxides that will enter that atmosphere, combine with water, and become 'acid rain'. Little to none passes the piston already reacted with water to sulfuric acid. Most (or all) oils DO NOT have pH buffers, as a pH buffer relies upon an equilibrium between two ionic salts in aqueous solution.
Those tar/wax build ups are break down products from the oils.... Any solvent for these genuinely added would damage the lubrication and temperature/viscosity requirements. The 'solvents' spoken of often are the result of carbon chain breakdown in the engine to lower MW compounds. i.e. a C13 chain cracking to a C8 and a C5 chain. Similar to hydrocracking done to convert long chain heavy fractions to a more gasoline rich feed stream.
I've been through 3-4 refineries, for interviews, process review, plant tour or similar. (Shreveport is a bad neighborhood ) It's actually a pretty crude process, and not as sophisticated as the writer believes. There's not really 300 magic voodoo dusts added to motor oil, or any oil.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPL170db
Just remember....."respect for the bike" is not what keeps you from crashing. You can have all the respect in the world for the bike, but when you do something accidentally and the bike reacts in a way that your skillset doesn't know how to respond to.......that's what ends you up on your head.
My avatar was the bike in the dining room for winter work. It never occurred to me it looks like I have a streetfighter...
Oil is primarily algae and other micro organisms, but they don't have to accumulate in Mariana trench and get covered in a landslide for oil. Regular old sediment bedding on the continental shelf works fine. Similarly, plant matter is the the source of coal.
All crude oil is organic, not just the aromatic rings. Paraffinic and napthenics are organic too.
His refinery explanation is just wrong. The fractionating column for different splits is the same as 100 years ago. That just gets a cut of the crude, that may be used as is (asphalt bottoms) further refined (gasoline desulfurization units) or reprocessed to return to distillation (hydrocracking to make heavy lube oils cuts more like a high $$$ gas cut).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPL170db
Just remember....."respect for the bike" is not what keeps you from crashing. You can have all the respect in the world for the bike, but when you do something accidentally and the bike reacts in a way that your skillset doesn't know how to respond to.......that's what ends you up on your head.
My avatar was the bike in the dining room for winter work. It never occurred to me it looks like I have a streetfighter...
Flash point... no no no no no. Read an MSDS explanation, please. Not when it will burn, when the vapors can ignite in air. Pretty meaningless for oil, just a matter of when the solvents he thinks are added would boil off. Oil burning in an engine is from oil passing the rings to the chamber or similar, not from it flash combusting.
Viscosity part - lots of bad info. Damn.
One chemical better than a mix - absolutely false. A mix allows you to tweak low temp viscosity and high temp viscosity separately, not possible with a single component.
Wow. Just fucking wow. The more I read, the more that is a horrible link. Holy shit.
Engine oil is not made from mineral oil like you buy at Walgreen's. It's a refinery cut. They all have a degree of coloration, but they are clearer than crude, darker than gasoline. Synthetic oil is made artificially from refined petroleum by-products (funny, isn't it?). A large refinery doesn't use 20 million gallons of MEK a day for their production.
Okay, so your oil loses all the additives by 750 miles, and as such has to be replaced by 1000-1500 miles no matter what. Missing additives is all that's wrong, nothing else. But adding the same additives in a bottle bought from AMSoil or other oil company is snake oil and will do nothing good or helpful for your engine. Right.
Also claims that no 10W-30 oil can meet JASO-MA or be wet clutch safe. AMSoil sells one. I only picked AMSoil to check because they have a more informative website, I'm sure just about everyone makes a 10W-30 JASO MA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPL170db
Just remember....."respect for the bike" is not what keeps you from crashing. You can have all the respect in the world for the bike, but when you do something accidentally and the bike reacts in a way that your skillset doesn't know how to respond to.......that's what ends you up on your head.
My avatar was the bike in the dining room for winter work. It never occurred to me it looks like I have a streetfighter...
I'm here and reading it now. I knew that high faluting learning degree would be useful for something. I do not, however, expect to actually find anything truly inaccurate.
) It's actually a pretty crude process, and not as sophisticated as the writer believes. There's not really 300 magic voodoo dusts added to motor oil, or any oil.
(Deservedly so btw)
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