The best way to do this is find the right shock. Pictured are two R-1 units. the second pic is that of a new works shock. The R-1 one units reqiured modifying the battery box. Any body do it with out butchering the battery box? Easier to buy the correct shock. I bought the right part.
I have the shock pictured on the upper left. Pretty sure it would have worked... if I hadn't gone with a 2006 swingarm and linkage... and if my bike had a Suzuki subframe and a battery box. No way to tell now though.
Im looking at replacement options for my original shock on my 85 750. From your postings I am guessing there are several options available other than OEM Suzuki.
I know the 85 had a shorter swingarm than 86. Is the the shock the same ?
I'm keen to here what other members have used or recommend.
AFAIK the 85-87 750's all use the same shock. Overheated easily when they were new and these days they're saggy old and unrebuildable.
I went with R1 shock (top left pic) and had the bottom eyelet bush shaved to fit in a lathe for a couple bucks. Tight fit and battery box needs bottom cut (I used next size smaller battery same dimensions except height and spaced it up higher so the shock would clear).
It gives a bit higher ride height at the rear, which helps turn in if you have the 18" factory wheels - I probably need to get my sag and what not setup but it seems alright so far. Someone here went that way with an ohlins spring matched to his weight.
Next to the manky original shock (and yes the yellow I believe is overspray from the person who 'painted' my bike )
I used an r6 shock, its a bit shorter than the r1 shock so it is closer to the original shocks length. Vast improvement over the screen door plunger they used on the original 86s.
AFAIK the 85-87 750's all use the same shock. Overheated easily when they were new and these days they're saggy old and unrebuildable.
I went with R1 shock (top left pic) and had the bottom eyelet bush shaved to fit in a lathe for a couple bucks. Tight fit and battery box needs bottom cut (I used next size smaller battery same dimensions except height and spaced it up higher so the shock would clear).
It gives a bit higher ride height at the rear, which helps turn in if you have the 18" factory wheels - I probably need to get my sag and what not setup but it seems alright so far. Someone here went that way with an ohlins spring matched to his weight.
Next to the manky original shock (and yes the yellow I believe is overspray from the person who 'painted' my bike )
Fruitloops is on the ball with this one. The only thing I will add is that the R1 shock with the hydraulic preload adjuster is slightly shorter than the one pictured and closer to the 295mm the original shock is. (Pics to follow)
I can vouch for pro-mecha as a viable alternative - I can't recall the owners name but he's a nice bloke and has worked on 3 of my bikes. About a year ago did the forks on my '83 RZ350 - gutted them and used their cartridge emulators in the rebuild. The difference was unbelievable and my '85 GSXR750 forks will be going to them too when I get to that stage of the rebuild.
Regarding rear shocks - keep your eyes peeled for 2nd hand aftermarket units - they do come up on this forum and ebay as well. I managed to pick up a rebuilt fully adjustable White Power shock for mine for about $180.
Penske also a shock for an '85 GSXR - cheaper than an ohlins etc. and worth considering while the AUD is high against the USD. I bought one of those for the RZ and it's a quality piece of kit.
On my 1986 GSX-R750 track bike, I used a 2005 R1 shock with a few modifications.
1) the lower mount was narrowed 1mm to fit the stock rocker clevis.
2) the spring was replaced with an Eibach 650 lbs/in (I weigh about 225).
3) a Race Tech threaded preload adjuster was used in place of the stock unit.
4) Race Tech revalved with their Gold Valve to suit the new spring rate and the GSX-R rocker geometry.
5) the extended length was shortened 5mm.
6) I had to clearance the rocker slightly to clear the lower collar/spring.
7) the battery box was modified to clear.
Total cost including shock (ebay) was $385.
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Old&Slow
Last edited by T8KC; 12-11-2011 at 10:28 PM.
Reason: update with photo
Looking to do an 09 R1 shock soon and I'd love to see one installed. Anyone have any advice for someone doing this swap? I've read all the posts I could find on here and think I've got it covered.
You talking about the lower mount when you say clevis? I would go with whichever one is closer to the original shock in length. If the consensus is that the 1K shock is a better match in rate, length, and valving then its kind of a no brainer.
so what kind of works shock is that? i am interested in a shock that wont require battery box trimming, just a plain old swap.. any ideas? so far i've heard of the 2009-2011 1k shock, and r1'/6's which all seem to need a battery fabrication
AFAIK the 85-87 750's all use the same shock. Overheated easily when they were new and these days they're saggy old and unrebuildable.
I went with R1 shock (top left pic) and had the bottom eyelet bush shaved to fit in a lathe for a couple bucks. Tight fit and battery box needs bottom cut (I used next size smaller battery same dimensions except height and spaced it up higher so the shock would clear).
It gives a bit higher ride height at the rear, which helps turn in if you have the 18" factory wheels - I probably need to get my sag and what not setup but it seems alright so far. Someone here went that way with an ohlins spring matched to his weight.
Next to the manky original shock (and yes the yellow I believe is overspray from the person who 'painted' my bike )
Hey woud this r1 shock work on a gsxr1100 1986 as well?
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