So the street version PM 5.5 is 1.8 lbs lighter than an '09 750 5.5 stocker. Interesting.
I'll do a similar check on my street vers. PM 5.5 ... with the Michelin Pilot 180, and see what I get.
The biggest difference between the street and race version's is the thickness of the material, i still have a set of race wheels here, and will post the thickness's of the spoke area, as well as the edge.
Now as the cush drive, in 1996, when i bought the wheels that you have jb, the cush drives where not available. I am not sure when they where offered for sure!
I have a set of Cyclones on my vintage racer that unfortunately are mixed ; Race front (thinner), Street rear (thicker/heaver). NO Cush-Drive.
They are hard to find. Id love to locate the "other" wheels to make a matched set(s).
You guys are getting way to side lined by static weight. What is important is the wheels dynamic weight. Pm's have pretty heavy hubs so they have a lage amount of weight close to the axle but they have very light rim so there is little weight out by the bead area. This reduces the moment if inertia of the wheel so they spin up faster and don't have as much gyroscopic effect as a stock wheel.
Wheels are made to roll not sit static on a bathroom scale.
I have this PM wheel for my 87 project, it's a race lite and 6.25".
I have always used PM wheels on all my bikes and have used race lites on both the street and track and same with the street versions when they started making the two different types and also used them when they were made under the Mitchell Wheels name.
No cushdrive on any of those and never had any trans or drivetrain problems ever, maybe from prep-work I would do to the internals
I have PM Forged wheels for my 92 and they have a cush system.
O.T. I also have some of the RC componets spun wheels and they are nice quality but not a PM by any means no cush system on them.
__________________ No Replacement For Displacement
Rychen. That's a very interesting cush set-up, and nowhere near resembles a stock Suzuki cush drive. Is there any chance that you could take a few more pics, showing how the whole operation layers?... possibly from a side angle shot OR 3/4 angle? Would be greatly appreciated.
Just my two cents. Not sure about the physics of it all but a bike with lighter wheels and reduced gyroscopic effect changes directions quicker. PM's for a dry race and stock 17's with rain tires when raining. I sold the blue PM wheel to Rychen and I believe all PM's could be adapted to run this setup by simply machining down the drive side spacer hub. I can't verify but I believe the darker grey material in this hub was magnesium or some other light weight material as it weighed close to nothing. The heaviest thing on that setup was that God awful chromed sprocket. lol
Came into this conversation late but, the improvement over the same time period wheels was significant when I weighed out what I had available(referenced above).
Of course 20+ years of alloy and tech advancement makes for an even bigger improvement but, a set of BST carbon fiber or O Z cattiva's really looks kinda out of place on an oil cooled GSXR. In my opinion of course.
Here's a pic of mine with the sprocket and there is no cush drive.
I'd like to see a pic of the "front cush sprocket" as well
Tom. What is your take on the cush drive? It would seems that most every bike I've owned has one... but PM wheels don't, unless you call that engineered disc (difficult to locate - and no longer made by PM) the solution. Have you encountered any issues running without a cush... and for that matter - has anyone here on GDC had tranny problems with their PM wheels?
I have never had a trans problem that I blamed on the PM's. But like I said I run a cush front sprocket. You can really tell there is no cush in the wheels hen you ride them tho if you are used to a stock wheel.