IIRC you are 230# and on stock springs running A pace??
You are more than likely hitting the hydraulic bottom of the forks.
Well when you put it that way it makes me sound like an idiot
Yes 230 nakeed so well over 250 geared up and yea running slow A pace suspension is top on my list
So for the front I am going to re spring and re valve any suggestions here guys? Hoping to put together a wish list for Christmas. I am thinking race tech
As for the rear shock I need to have it freshened up but should I also buy a new coil for it? Or is the rear okay? Also it is possible to have the rear freshened up correct?
I have Ohlins 20mm FPK with 1.05 springs, 7 weight oil, I dont remember the oil level off hand, and GP fork extenders up front.
In the rear I have a 600 or 650 pound spring, on a stock shock revalved with a Racetech valve kit.
I love the way the bike feels, I am almost identical to you in weight and pace.
I would avoid fucking with the stock shock, the price to service or modify is just not justifiable compared to an after market shock which would be better anyway. I only did it because I only had to pay for parts.
__________________
Rich
CCS AM #795
T 1:35.38/L 1:14.06
Quote:
Originally Posted by GixxerVixxen
Mine might be an innie, but I promise you you don't want to get into a dick measuring contest with me, son. I'll win.
K thanks so for the rear just look into going aftermarket?
What's the difference between the 20mm and 30mm valve kits?
I will ask the suspension shop all these questions but I don't want to get Bs'd
As for the springs how do you find out what size? Race tech had a calculator and I think it recommended .995s but stock are .900 I think I should do the next one up from .995
I think to duplicate my rear shock would cost around $500.
I would also look into going a little stiffer with the fork springs, but that is just my opinion.
Price is one HUGE difference between the 20mm kit and the 30mm kit, the 20mm kit is just the valves themselves that have to be installed in the existing cartridges, the 30mm kit is full carts.
What's the purpose of shimming the rear and buying the fork tube cap extensions to raise the front?
Raise the whole bike. Raising the rear increases swing arm angle, raising the front restores rake and trail after raising the rear. There is a LOT more to it than that though. Its all chassis geometry, its not easy but it makes a huge difference in the handling of the bike.
I think to duplicate my rear shock would cost around $500.
I would also look into going a little stiffer with the fork springs, but that is just my opinion.
Price is one HUGE difference between the 20mm kit and the 30mm kit, the 20mm kit is just the valves themselves that have to be installed in the existing cartridges, the 30mm kit is full carts.
Ah this makes sense being as how you can buy 20mm valves for like 120 and the 30mm is always the cartridge kit for 1200
Any difference between the ohlins and race tech with just springs and valves that you know of? They are about the same price
Raise the whole bike. Raising the rear increases swing arm angle, raising the front restores rake and trail after raising the rear. There is a LOT more to it than that though. Its all chassis geometry, its not easy but it makes a huge difference in the handling of the bike.
Ah makes sense this will wait till further down the road lol
Question....WHen under hard braking how close to bottoming out should the shocks come? I had a weird incedent yesterday and after watching video I think what may have happend is I bottomed out the suspension on the front. Unfortanately the lap I had the incedent on I was recording from a different angle.
Anyways on almost every lap I was withink 3/4s of an inch from bottoming out if not less.
When you bottom out, the rear farily suddenly gets light and wants to come around. It can also cause the front to tuck on the brakes. 3/4 from bottom doesnt sound like bottom though on stock stuff. Not unless you have added way more oil to it and are hydraulic bottom
FWIW true bottom is seal against casting on our bikes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goobersbro
Well when you put it that way it makes me sound like an idiot
Yes 230 nakeed so well over 250 geared up and yea running slow A pace suspension is top on my list
So for the front I am going to re spring and re valve any suggestions here guys? Hoping to put together a wish list for Christmas. I am thinking race tech
As for the rear shock I need to have it freshened up but should I also buy a new coil for it? Or is the rear okay? Also it is possible to have the rear freshened up correct?
If you cant afford cartridges like 25mm or 30mm then a revalve is sufficient. I ran them for a long time
for the rear shock either just go spring, or a full new JRi shock
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goobersbro
K thanks so for the rear just look into going aftermarket?
What's the difference between the 20mm and 30mm valve kits?
I will ask the suspension shop all these questions but I don't want to get Bs'd
As for the springs how do you find out what size? Race tech had a calculator and I think it recommended .995s but stock are .900 I think I should do the next one up from .995
YOu need at least a set of 1.0 spring, if not a 1.0 and a 1.5 IMO up front
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goobersbro
What's the purpose of shimming the rear and buying the fork tube cap extensions to raise the front?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goobersbro
Ah this makes sense being as how you can buy 20mm valves for like 120 and the 30mm is always the cartridge kit for 1200
Any difference between the ohlins and race tech with just springs and valves that you know of? They are about the same price
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