My SET valve finally gave up.
I have searched all over and cannot find if it is alright to remove with a Bolton yosh exhaust.
Bugman says not with a stock exhaust but why?
If I loose only 3% of torque @3500 rpm, or almost 1ft/lb.
I think I can live with that for the approx $500 price tag?
what do ya think?
Any one got one F.S. @ a reasonable $
Remove it, the differences are minimal from what i've heard. Theres a topic that shows how to remove the SET valve here and people say the results. I think even dynochars are there.
My SET valve is all good and i wont remove it for nothing but since your gone and 500 seems alot.
Piss it off altogether - it's there to get past the stingent noise and emission requirements prior to registration. You wont lose stuff all and you will gain mid / top power by removing the restrictions in the exhaust.
About six years ago I did the Yosh with mid pipe because my set valve was throwing the FI code on my K2. Used Bugmans instructions and never a problem.
Got a question about this on my 2001 GSXR 1000 that I just bought...........it already had a Yosh slip on when I got it ( set valve removed ), but the FI lite was on steady and readout went from temp to FI back and forth. The seller said it was because the SET valve was gone and he never did the servo wiring fix.
I checked the code and it was a C-46.
I just checked out bugmanweb and read thru his info about this and he says to take the two wire connector that goes to the servo and tie them together AND also to remove the black with brown tracer wire from the ECU plug.
Now heres what I found on mine...........whoever installed the pipe only removed the set valve and the cables, the actual electrical servo was still there and plugged in ( and moving when key on ) so my first question is :
since the servo motor was still electrically hooked up, why did I get the C-46 code and FI lite???
What I did was go to the Yosh site and read about the pipe install and they say to simply remove the black/brown wire from the ECU plug, which I just did, and bingo, the FI lite is now off, but I still have both the three wire plug and the two wire plug connected at the servo motor on the frame.
Bike seems to start and run fine - am I okay to leave it just like this or should I still unplug & remove the servo motor and tie the two wire plug wires together like some guys are saying???
I just want to be sure removing that brown/black wire will ONLY affect the set valve trouble code ( C-46 ) and that any other problems will still set off the FI / trouble code lite properly.
Sorry this got so long, thanks for any help/clarification on this, I appreciate it.
On the 2007 you can just pull the wire from harness and leave everything else alone.The instructions I followed said leave servo and cables hooked up. I did disconnect the cables and wired my valve open and have had no problems plus bike sounds almost as nice as my 1100 did with full system.
Got a question about this on my 2001 GSXR 1000 that I just bought...........it already had a Yosh slip on when I got it ( set valve removed ), but the FI lite was on steady and readout went from temp to FI back and forth. The seller said it was because the SET valve was gone and he never did the servo wiring fix.
I checked the code and it was a C-46.
I just checked out bugmanweb and read thru his info about this and he says to take the two wire connector that goes to the servo and tie them together AND also to remove the black with brown tracer wire from the ECU plug.
Now heres what I found on mine...........whoever installed the pipe only removed the set valve and the cables, the actual electrical servo was still there and plugged in ( and moving when key on ) so my first question is :
since the servo motor was still electrically hooked up, why did I get the C-46 code and FI lite???
What I did was go to the Yosh site and read about the pipe install and they say to simply remove the black/brown wire from the ECU plug, which I just did, and bingo, the FI lite is now off, but I still have both the three wire plug and the two wire plug connected at the servo motor on the frame.
Bike seems to start and run fine - am I okay to leave it just like this or should I still unplug & remove the servo motor and tie the two wire plug wires together like some guys are saying???
I just want to be sure removing that brown/black wire will ONLY affect the set valve trouble code ( C-46 ) and that any other problems will still set off the FI / trouble code lite properly.
I did the complete Bugman removal, wiring it all exactly like he describes with no problems at all. As for the servo motor, unplug it and take it off altogether and get an instant 1kg weight saving! There is no reason that doing this will throw any other FI codes. If your FI light is already off, then it should stay off unless you get a different problem with another part of the bike.
I did the complete Bugman removal, wiring it all exactly like he describes with no problems at all. As for the servo motor, unplug it and take it off altogether and get an instant 1kg weight saving! There is no reason that doing this will throw any other FI codes. If your FI light is already off, then it should stay off unless you get a different problem with another part of the bike.
Okay, thanks for the reply but...............I was interested in finding out why I got the code 46 when the electrical servo was still plugged in and operating ( even thought with no cables or valve it wasn't doing anything )???
And why bugman says on his site that you must tie the wires from the two wire plug together to get rid of code 46, but then later in the story tells you to remove the brown/blk wire from the ecu to get rid of code 46 - would I have to do both if I removed my servo???
And lastly I just want to be sure my FI lite will still function for any other trouble codes etc with that brown/blk wire removed from the ECU???
I just want to make sure everything ECU/electronically will still function properly with that brown/blk wire removed.
Okay, thanks for the reply but...............I was interested in finding out why I got the code 46 when the electrical servo was still plugged in and operating ( even thought with no cables or valve it wasn't doing anything )???
And why bugman says on his site that you must tie the wires from the two wire plug together to get rid of code 46, but then later in the story tells you to remove the brown/blk wire from the ecu to get rid of code 46 - would I have to do both if I removed my servo???
And lastly I just want to be sure my FI lite will still function for any other trouble codes etc with that brown/blk wire removed from the ECU???
I just want to make sure everything ECU/electronically will still function properly with that brown/blk wire removed.
Thanks again,
You got the FI code because the Servo wasn't returning the resistance that the ECU expected - BECAUSE it wasn't connected to the cables. As for tying the 2 wires together, I'm not entirely sure, but I think it's to fool the ECU into thinking that the servo is still there. I did it and never had a problem. I wouldn't worry about it. Your FI light will still work for other problems, I've had a C28 code since I did mine (not related) so I know it works fine.
If you're worried about cutting wires, then leave yourself enough room to rejoin them if something goes wrong. I didn't pull mine out of the ECU, I cut it midway and taped it off. That way I can always rejoin it if I want.
You got the FI code because the Servo wasn't returning the resistance that the ECU expected - BECAUSE it wasn't connected to the cables. As for tying the 2 wires together, I'm not entirely sure, but I think it's to fool the ECU into thinking that the servo is still there. I did it and never had a problem. I wouldn't worry about it. Your FI light will still work for other problems, I've had a C28 code since I did mine (not related) so I know it works fine.
If you're worried about cutting wires, then leave yourself enough room to rejoin them if something goes wrong. I didn't pull mine out of the ECU, I cut it midway and taped it off. That way I can always rejoin it if I want.
Thanks again, I'll leave mine just how it is then, as far as the brown/black from the ECU harness, it was very simple to just remove the wire/pin from the harness with no cutting, and I could easily put it back if I had to for some reason.
Thanks for the reply
i have just taken my butterfly / set valve out completley by puttin a new link pipe in. I have taken the actuator and cables out completly.
I am struggling with which pin it is to take out of the ecu???
I have just tried the black / brown wire on the part of the ecu that is on the left side of the bike. It was next to a white wire and a few white blankiong plates were in front. However the F1 warning light still comes on.
can any please please let me know if i have done something wrong or need to do anything else??? like with the connectors i discountected from the actuator?
I just put my bike away for the winter, so I can't go out and look at it right now, but make sure you pulled the brown wire with a black tracer ( you mention black with brown )...............if you go to the Yoshimura website they have pretty good info/pics there.
Also on my bike the actuator motor is still on the frame and plugged in - it's just not doing anything since the cables are gone - so all I did was remove the brown/black wire from the ECU and my FI lite went off.
If you just have the connectors for the servo/actuator hanging there, if I remember right you have to jumper/tie the wires on the two wire connector together to get the lite to go off.
Go to the bugman website he has some pretty good info/pics there.............my bike is an 01, so your 02 might be slightly dif. as far as wire colors go, I honestly don't know, maybe someone else will chime in.
So basically, if you remove the SET cables, SET servo, and unplug the connector going to it, you must twist the two wires together AND cut the wire at the ECU to avoid an FI light.
But if you are only disconnecting the SET cables (leaving servo box plugged in), you only need to cut the wire at the ECU. Is this correct?
Funny....just got my new full Arata and the instructions say nothing about tying 2 wires together per Bugmans site. Just remove blk/brn wire from ecu, tape off, and that's it. I'm confused why yosh, arata, akrapovic, makes no mention of shorting the wires?
but since your gone and 500 seems alot.
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