Cody,Im gonna check my shelves&see if I have an old petcock laying around;if I do just pay for the shipping and its yours. Dont really wanna see a "My bike caught on fire&burned to the ground after I made my own petcock" thread lol
I have an 07, and was considering adding one as a fuel shut off, that way if someone tries to ride off on the bike, it will shut off on them!!! They would never figure it out!!!
Not a very wise decision to interrupt fuel pressure on a fuel injected bike with an added-on petcock.In general thats a recipe for disaster. There are more effective ways to safeguard your bike
Cody,Im gonna check my shelves&see if I have an old petcock laying around;if I do just pay for the shipping and its yours. Dont really wanna see a "My bike caught on fire&burned to the ground after I made my own petcock" thread lol
Quote: "Honestly srad, I don't really care if you like it or not:
Well...That works for me!
I have found 6-7 possible places for your frankenpetcock to leak from.
I hope you never try to reinvent the wheel, after seeing this venture it will undoubtedly be square!
So many cheaper/easier ways to have gone about this that it boggles the mind that this is the best you could come up with?
I have found that sometimes a little tough love here preserves life/limb/property and that's what I am hoping for here with you as well.
Carry on then...
The easiest and the cheapest thing would have probably been to modify the stock petcock for free flow then install an in line interrupt like the ones from ebay.
With the time & $$$ you have invested in brass fittings you could have done better for yourself.
Pingle and "pingle style" petcocks have the propensity to leak from their mounting plate and I have always wondered about their appeal?
Srad I have only spent about 30 on this project, if it ask works I'm Hobbs solder it all together so it can't leak. And why you gotta be the negative Nancy on this thread? If it works it works if not then at least I will learn for next time.
Srad I have only spent about 30 on this project, if it ask works I'm Hobbs solder it all together so it can't leak. And why you gotta be the negative Nancy on this thread? If it works it works if not then at least I will learn for next time.
I prefer to think of myself as "Realistic Roberta" rather than "Negative Nancy"
If learning and experience is what you are seeking then I am sure you will find some with your "frankenpetcock" project.
If a smooth running, leak free fuel valve that doesn't look like a 3rd grade science project is what you seek, you may need (you definitely need) to go back to square 1.
Srad I have only spent about 30 on this project, if it ask works I'm Hobbs solder it all together so it can't leak. And why you gotta be the negative Nancy on this thread? If it works it works if not then at least I will learn for next time.
PS...Threaded joints don't get soldered, that's the point of it having threads.
Use some teflon tape on the threaded couplers to ensure they are leak free.
I'll do it my way, srad, don't reply again unless you got some helping advice instead of trying to make me look like a fucking retard. Its all gonna be out of sight under the tank so who honestly gives a shit what it looks like as long as it does its job. And how would you recommend modifying the oe petcock for free flow and then put in two shutoff valves and it still not look like a "3rd grade science project"?
In my eyes...you already "look like a self inflicted retard" but if that's part of your normal learning curve, so be it.
The petcocks biggest problem seems to be they get frozen from the knob staying in 1 place (on position) for too long.
When you go to turn the vale to reserve/prime, it shears off the plastic nibs inside that engage the knob to spin it.
I would have moved that to the prime position for free flowing fuel then installed a "T" fitting with an in line fuel shut off as seen in those eBay auctions.
Obviously you have the mechanical aptitude as you have disassembled and presumably reassembled your carbs correctly.
While you motivation may be in the right place, your choice of hardware is not.
All those joining points lend themselves to leaks not to mention the physical space that monstrosity takes up.
Necessity, they say, is a mother and this is case in point I suppose.
Hope that helps and if not...Just call me "Nancy"
Ok Nancy. I'm trying to figure out a cheaper solution than the high priced replacements. I'm not trying to make a piece of art as its never seen but trying to make something that does its job better than you
I guessed, and according to Nancy I'm retarded so my argument in invalid, but I guessed that solder would hold up a lot better than tape, but I'm gonna look onto modifying the OEM one and see if I can figure anything
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