can't find my 750j starter motor anywhere in the parts bin! so i had my 1100m starter motor slightly modified & shaved to fit the puny hole in the 750's case.
and that is a slightly modified ( shortened, narrowed ) SRAD tail. maybe using that, maybe not
In post #5 of this thread,
you mention possibly using an 1127 bottom case half with a slingshot 750 top case half.
Did you end up doing this?
You know cases are line honed after being factory assembled,
and if you mismatch a set you would have to re-line hone them together, right?
(If the cases were mismatched enough, this might not even be possible)
You didn't mention it again, so you are probably using the matched 750 set now,
but I was just wondering.
Good build by the way
There are other threads about using the 6speed behind an 1100.
Most that have tried it do not recommend it.
In post #5 of this thread,
you mention possibly using an 1127 bottom case half with a slingshot 750 top case half.
Did you end up doing this?
You know cases are line honed after being factory assembled,
and if you mismatch a set you would have to re-line hone them together, right?
(If the cases were mismatched enough, this might not even be possible)
You didn't mention it again, so you are probably using the matched 750 set now,but I was just wondering
no i didn't know that line hone thingy. everything just fits so well, i guess it'll work? but NOW i'm worried!
so what should i look out for? i haven't sort out the electrics yet, but using a wrench, the crankshaft convincingly rotates well enough. no grinding sound?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpnjim
Good build by the way
There are other threads about using the 6speed behind an 1100.
Most that have tried it do not recommend it.
just tryin' out something a bit different.
i was comparing between them 5 & 6 speed boxes prior to the build and i assume they wouldn't break THAT easy. i did a search on that part too, and regardless of the previous posts, i decided to do a write up on my own to prove something.
i'm not doing any form of racing, maybe a trackday or two in the future, but i was building the bike for fun.i rarely have the time to ride, tho.
i still have the 5 speed box as spare if anything goes wrong.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by tank34
turbo's, chrome, stunnin stunnas, and nawws bottles mounted on the subframe... Some neon frame lights and your good to go.
welcome to where the sun shines all year round..
1988 GSXR seven-eleven
I like! I too have an all the wrong parts motor though mine is a bastard gsx600f and gsx-r750 blend. In my i used a 90' clutch, 6 springs, only because i didn't have a clutch for the 4 spring basket and i got it for free .99. You might be able to use a GS clutch basket I'll have to look through my misc stuff and see if the 1100 basket i have will fit on one of the many 88- trans shafts i have. it's kinda funny how you can cross parts over many years of GS-GSX-GSXR some directly some you kinda have to force err make work.
I will say that i do know a guy that threw 2nd out the back of his short stroke but he also like to yank wheelies on the highway.
no i didn't know that line hone thingy. everything just fits so well, i guess it'll work? but NOW i'm worried!
so what should i look out for? i haven't sort out the electrics yet, but using a wrench, the crankshaft convincingly rotates well enough. no grinding sound
My understanding is the factory case halves were semi-finished, then mated up in pairs for final line honing.
Each case half would then only be *perfect* with the other half it was married to during final honing.
What would I look for?
Before assembly you could have miked the cases and looked for any kind of a lip where the two cases mate up.
You also could have measured the size of the opening top to bottom compared to side to side to see if the different case halves resulted in any egg shaped holes.
I'm sure that any difference would be extremely slight,
and might not even noticeable anywhere outside a machine shop.
All that said,
even if they look really close,
I think line honing the cases together,
in hopes of re-matching them would be the safest way.
If no one here pipes in with a more solid answer,
you could ask a local bike shop, or motorcycle engine builder for their opinion.
"LINE HONING is a term to describe the following: Shaving the main caps of the block so that you effectively allow room to "line Bore" another hole in the main journals to re-align them and make them round and straight. So typically, they might shave .002 off the main caps, and then torque down the caps to the block, and then bore the hole of the mains straight and to the spec size they want.
The reasons that are given to such a practice is obvious. The current main alignment is out of spec, or one or more of the holes is out of round. The attempt to fix this is done by a boring bar. These are expensive apparatus's and requires extensive, professional operators to get it right."
"professional operators" :P
i have none of that sort of equipment over here.
i've to risk it this time, since all holes & studs perfectly lined up.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by tank34
turbo's, chrome, stunnin stunnas, and nawws bottles mounted on the subframe... Some neon frame lights and your good to go.
welcome to where the sun shines all year round..
1988 GSXR seven-eleven
the letters on the back of the cases state the I.D. journal size for example i have 2 sets of 88 759 cases that are AAA AAB and another is ABB AAA. the crank will also have letter letting you know how big the O.D. of the crank, only one i have out is a katana 600, it's CBB BBB (the mark is next to rod #1). there is the spec on page 75-80 (3-42 thru 3-47) of the 88-91 750 manual that then lets you know what bearings you would need but that is for the 750 you should also look at page 73-76 (3-40 thru 3-43) of the 88-92 1100 manual to see if and how the tolerances might fit together.
to loose and you can spin a bearing which would ruin the cases and to tight can crack the cases or damage the crank journal.
there is also the thrust bearing that hasn't been mentioned that would also need to be checked to make sure that it's with in tolerance
plasti-gauge is your friend, you may want to split the cases and make sure that your with in the tolerances it kinda sucks but it's better to waste a bit of time taking it apart now and be sure than to have to pull it out and find that stuff is screwed.
I'm no Uber-Tech, more of a shade tree parts replacer though my tech friend calls me for oil cooled info, i have read most of the oil cooled manuals front to back many times and went through all this with my frankenmotor. i have had most of them in hard copy for about 18 years. i thought i had read some where that there is a issue with the larger sleeves and clearance in the cases but i'm not 100% on that one. i do remember some guy talking about doing something like this at the katana forum. though i think he was trying to just put a 750 trans in 1100 cases
the letters on the back of the cases state the I.D. journal size for example i have 2 sets of 88 759 cases that are AAA AAB and another is ABB AAA. the crank will also have letter letting you know how big the O.D. of the crank, only one i have out is a katana 600, it's CBB BBB (the mark is next to rod #1). there is the spec on page 75-80 (3-42 thru 3-47) of the 88-91 750 manual that then lets you know what bearings you would need but that is for the 750 you should also look at page 73-76 (3-40 thru 3-43) of the 88-92 1100 manual to see if and how the tolerances might fit together.
to loose and you can spin a bearing which would ruin the cases and to tight can crack the cases or damage the crank journal.
there is also the thrust bearing that hasn't been mentioned that would also need to be checked to make sure that it's with in tolerance
plasti-gauge is your friend, you may want to split the cases and make sure that your with in the tolerances it kinda sucks but it's better to waste a bit of time taking it apart now and be sure than to have to pull it out and find that stuff is screwed.
I'm no Uber-Tech, more of a shade tree parts replacer though my tech friend calls me for oil cooled info, i have read most of the oil cooled manuals front to back many times and went through all this with my frankenmotor. i have had most of them in hard copy for about 18 years. i thought i had read some where that there is a issue with the larger sleeves and clearance in the cases but i'm not 100% on that one. i do remember some guy talking about doing something like this at the katana forum. though i think he was trying to just put a 750 trans in 1100 cases
wow daiyum all that point to note for.
here i am just tryin to put pieces of my motor back together. last night i thought well ok everything lined up perfectly (i did some measurement n stuff like that) so i'ma go ahead and gonna try to crank her up next week, and now i think i've to split her up again and do some more checking!
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