After being away for a few years I have come back to my 1100 that has been sitting untouched all this time. I had previously stripped it down for a respray and after putting most of it back together (oil changes etc) I let her rip and it was great. A cough and a fart and a few tail pipe flames and it was fine. after a warm up I took it for a spin up the road, no dramas there, it felt great.
Like an excited kid i started it another half a dozen times that day with no problems. Next morning it started just fine again so I re attached all the fairings to take it in to get registration and would you know it, it stalled and then never started again. As I turned it over it tried to start (it was firing) but the more i tried the less it fired until nothing.
I suspect it ran out of fuel in the primary tank so I filled it up and still no go.
I checked the a few easy things like the fuel line between the inline filter and the fuel tap and fuel was pumping out no problem when turning the bike over.
So, I have limited technical knowledge so am looking for advice on what your diagnosis is. My initial thoughts are a blockage but where would I look?
The fuel is pumping form the tank so its not the filter
The little inline filters a clear
Do I check the Jet Needle in the Carbs?
I doubt it is spark but will check it once I find my spark plug tools...
Looking for some advice from the wise and knowledgeable
Another point to note (after reading other threads) is that I took apart the petcock as the tap was not turning well and I noticed that when the tank was off, in the Pri position the fuel would run but in the RES position it wouldn't.
But when I plug it all back in the fuel runs out the primary no problem when I turn it over.
I assume this rules that issue out if fuel flows out the primary?
I also replaced the RES fuel line from the petcock to the inline filter. It was potentially a fraction smaller hose if that makes a difference.
Hurls
Last edited by Hurls; 08-20-2012 at 07:12 AM.
Reason: thought of somethimg else...
2 things make them run...1-fuel & 2-spark
A quick way to diagnose fuel delivery problems is to take some fuel and put it in a spray bottle and spray it into the carb throats while thumbing the starter. A primitive fuel injection if you will.
If the bike does nothing and shows no signs of starting then it's time to look at spark and possible causes for not having any or having it at the wrong time via timing woes.
You may have thrown a timing chain but we can get into that down the road as it rarely happens on these older bikes from my experience with them.
Pull the plugs and see if they are bone dry (no fuel delivery) or overly wet (carb flooding issue) and report back.
Good luck Mr. Phelps.
2 things make them run...1-fuel & 2-spark
A quick way to diagnose fuel delivery problems is to take some fuel and put it in a spray bottle and spray it into the carb throats while thumbing the starter. A primitive fuel injection if you will.
If the bike does nothing and shows no signs of starting then it's time to look at spark and possible causes for not having any or having it at the wrong time via timing woes.
You may have thrown a timing chain but we can get into that down the road as it rarely happens on these older bikes from my experience with them.
Pull the plugs and see if they are bone dry (no fuel delivery) or overly wet (carb flooding issue) and report back.
Good luck Mr. Phelps.
Nice, thanks!
To clarify for the inexperienced (but keen to try). The carbie throat would normally be from the air intake correct ?? Found facing the rear of the bike. So my first task is to figure out how to get the air filter box out :-)
May sound easy to some , but for the beginner with giant hands, well fun fun fun..
Hmm, don't i need to get the air intake off the carbs to get to the fuel injector needles? Educate me?
Happy not to have to do this, just cant see how to get in there without removing this and it is attached to the air filter box...
Hurls...slow down. Do not try to remove the airbox...you will risk your sanity. All carb work can be done with the airbox in place.
(For your reference: The trick is to loosen the airbox to carb boots, remove the airbox lid/filter, and remove the screws bolting the airbox to the subframe (tail). You can now slide the airbox back into the tail, and pull the carbs off the motor. They can then slide out the side after the throttle cables are loosened at the clip-on.)
Sradiator means to just undo the airbox lid, remove the filter, stick your hands in there and spray gas into the carb throats while cranking the bike over...I have never tried this, but I'm assuming this is what he means...
__________________
Dynojet Stage 1 kit, Goodridge braided front lines, K&N filter, '07 GSXR 750 shock, shimmed clutch springs, Factory Pro "Pro" shift kit, Motion Pro R1 throttle, aluminum fan (with manual switch), Jardine RT-One race can, '94 magnesium engine covers, Yamaha aluminum bar ends, sexy Russian co-pilot.
If you have the air box in place (a rarity these days) just leave it as is but remove the air filter to access the carb throats.
If the fuel filter is void of fuel then a fuel delivery problem is likely your culprit.
Spraying some fuel or starting fluid (ether) into the air box and thumbing the starter should wake the dead if it is a fuel delivery issue.
After being away for a few years I have come back to my 1100 that has been sitting untouched all this time. I had previously stripped it down for a respray and after putting most of it back together (oil changes etc) I let her rip and it was great. A cough and a fart and a few tail pipe flames and it was fine. after a warm up I took it for a spin up the road, no dramas there, it felt great.
Like an excited kid i started it another half a dozen times that day with no problems. Next morning it started just fine again so I re attached all the fairings to take it in to get registration and would you know it, it stalled and then never started again. As I turned it over it tried to start (it was firing) but the more i tried the less it fired until nothing.
I suspect it ran out of fuel in the primary tank so I filled it up and still no go.
I checked the a few easy things like the fuel line between the inline filter and the fuel tap and fuel was pumping out no problem when turning the bike over.
So, I have limited technical knowledge so am looking for advice on what your diagnosis is. My initial thoughts are a blockage but where would I look?
The fuel is pumping form the tank so its not the filter
The little inline filters a clear
Do I check the Jet Needle in the Carbs?
I doubt it is spark but will check it once I find my spark plug tools...
Looking for some advice from the wise and knowledgeable
Hurls
The folks on here know me well enough by now to probably know exactly what I am about to say: I am not a fan of inline fuel filters. They are quite simply not needed and are not original to the design of the bike. Unless your fuel supplier in Northeastern Aus includes 'chunks' in their gasoline as a free gift when you refuel (keeping in mind the in-tank strainer will catch most of that), the extra filter (especially one that has not been replaced regularly/frequently) may inhibit fuel delivery during high demand (open throttle) operations.
On the correct petcock setting and operations bit: fuel should on flow freely (via gravity) in the 'PRI' position. It should only flow fuel in the 'ON' or 'RES' position when engine vacuum is applied (that's the third, smaller diameter line running to the petcock). If anything else is happening, the petcock is not functioning properly. Normal operations is 'ON' or 'RES'. 'PRI' is used following carburetor overhaul/maintenance to fill the float bowls prior to attempting a normal start (in the 'ON' position). My experience tells me that the bowls will fill enough for a start after no more than 2 minutes in the 'PRI' position.
On the correct petcock setting and operations bit: fuel should on flow freely (via gravity) in the 'PRI' position. It should only flow fuel in the 'ON' or 'RES' position when engine vacuum is applied (that's the third, smaller diameter line running to the petcock). If anything else is happening, the petcock is not functioning properly. Normal operations is 'ON' or 'RES'. 'PRI' is used following carburetor overhaul/maintenance to fill the float bowls prior to attempting a normal start (in the 'ON' position). My experience tells me that the bowls will fill enough for a start after no more than 2 minutes in the 'PRI' position.
We should just have a sticky about how to properly use the petcock...seems like you do one of these a day!
I do agree...fuel filters not set up right or changed regularily will cause issues. However, I have been running some for the last 3 years now...and I'm glad I did. Carbs are squeaky clean...
The folks on here know me well enough by now to probably know exactly what I am about to say: I am not a fan of inline fuel filters. They are quite simply not needed and are not original to the design of the bike. Unless your fuel supplier in Northeastern Aus includes 'chunks' in their gasoline as a free gift when you refuel (keeping in mind the in-tank strainer will catch most of that), the extra filter (especially one that has not been replaced regularly/frequently) may inhibit fuel delivery during high demand (open throttle) operations.
On the correct petcock setting and operations bit: fuel should on flow freely (via gravity) in the 'PRI' position. It should only flow fuel in the 'ON' or 'RES' position when engine vacuum is applied (that's the third, smaller diameter line running to the petcock). If anything else is happening, the petcock is not functioning properly. Normal operations is 'ON' or 'RES'. 'PRI' is used following carburetor overhaul/maintenance to fill the float bowls prior to attempting a normal start (in the 'ON' position). My experience tells me that the bowls will fill enough for a start after no more than 2 minutes in the 'PRI' position.
And this is where I love the forum first and feel like a knob second..... hahhaha
I take your advice on the inline filters. Replacing the lines wont be hard.
The Petcock info was a Gem. i firgured Pri was Primary, ON was actuality "NO" as in Off and the Res Reserve. You are telling me that No = On and this is the main position for normal operation.
What I did was run out of fuel, switch to Res and then decided to just refuel. Once I had refueled I switched to Pri thinking this was the main position.
So if you can clarify this for me, I will go about re assembly and kick her over again
I hear you all saying "RETARD" haha
1. Normal operation to include refuelling, Select 'ON"
2. Subsequent refuelling via odometer or visual inspection (or low fuel light on an 1100) or if you like the excitement 'run out of fuel' in the 'ON' position (in this case, switch to 'RES' for an extra 4 liters or so).
3. If you refuel from 'RES', place petcock back to 'ON' position after fuelling - return to Step 1 above. This should be normal operations.
4. If you store the bike for an extended period (floats will go dry over time) or otherwise do maintenance requiring you to drain the float bowls, select 'PRI' to refill the floats (again, usually not more than 2 mins). Do not operate the bike in 'PRI' as a full fuel tank can push fuel into your cylinders and into your crankcase oil (think weight of fuel overwhelming the needle valve in the float system and streaming into the engine intake).
There is no 'OFF' position with the OEM petcock. The engine vacuum (or rather, the lack of it) is your 'off' valve for the OEM petcock.
Yep, got the vent sorted.
Note to self, don't read stuff in the upside down position :-)
Who would have thought that out of three options, one wasn't "fuel off"
Linear Mode
