First shop never noticed I guess.I could not find a motor with low miles and don't want to chance one on ebay so I told him to replate all the cylinder's,freshen up the motor,install a thicker head gasket,lower the boost to 4psi then dyno tune.I am hopefull that will end my problems.I will keep yall updated.
Ok It's been a while.Had motor and head rebuilt/cylinder's replated by a pro.I put the motor back on last night,everything together,put some new gas.Guy told me to put a few slow miles on it before I bring it back to him to get dyno.So after about 10 minuts of rideing(mind you I never went over 35 I was rideing in town) I stopped at at redlight and a whiteish smoke was coming out the exaust.Just as before.I checked the turbo on the inlet side no play in and out.Think the smoke can be from not having it tuned?Kinda smells like fuel.I checked the plugs there white.No oil on the plugs.
Noise gone now ?? was the builder able to identify the causes ?
Suppose it depends on the builder but personally i would prefer to run it in on the dyno where you can control the load better and watch a/f and boost carefully
maybe just burning off oil in the turbo after laying around, i would not worry about it too much unless it persists
If the motor was just rebuilt and this is your first time riding it, a bit of smoke (white/black/blue) is normal and should go away within a few miles. If you still have it after 30 miles and the smoke is white, you're probably burning coolant.
Now what I speak of is from rebuilding car engines, I presume motorcycle engines are very similar (although smaller) when it comes to what happens after starting up a freshly rebuilt engine.
Maj the noise was coming from seized rings on the # 4 piston.So I got 4 new stock pistons,and a thicker head gasket.I am hoping it is like you said oil in the turbo from laying around for 6 months on a shelf and maybe even oil in its filter.Mike the motor has just been rebuilt would hope it wouldnt be coolant,I smelled cars burning coolant before this smell is nothing like that.Its almost a clean fuel smell if that makes cents?Its not a rich fuel smell but it does stay on my cloths like it would be fuel.I wont ride are start it again until he can dyno it I am hoping is in the next week are two.I sold my other two bikes and have not rode in 5 months so I am ready to ride!Again thanks for your time.
Maj the noise was coming from seized rings on the # 4 piston.So I got 4 new stock pistons,and a thicker head gasket.I am hoping it is like you said oil in the turbo from laying around for 6 months on a shelf and maybe even oil in its filter.Mike the motor has just been rebuilt would hope it wouldnt be coolant,I smelled cars burning coolant before this smell is nothing like that.Its almost a clean fuel smell if that makes cents?Its not a rich fuel smell but it does stay on my cloths like it would be fuel.I wont ride are start it again until he can dyno it I am hoping is in the next week are two.I sold my other two bikes and have not rode in 5 months so I am ready to ride!Again thanks for your time.
Just speaking from my experiences, I could certainly be wrong .
how low does your turbo sit? If it sits lower than the oil level, it will smoke like spy hunter as the oil leaves the turbo by gravity. If this is the problem, you will need a scavenge pump. Keep us posted,
It sits above the oil level.It feeds into the bottom of the pan can this be a problem?First pic is the return going into the bottom of the pan.
Thanks again for your time.
Last edited by BoneDeep; 07-01-2012 at 09:22 AM.
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Turbo is a little lower than it could be , may contribute to the smoke , if it persists & if you don't want to remake the mount point a scavenge pump may help ,
drain point into the sump is fairly std ,but what size is the hose -8 ?that would be a minimum
what gives me the horrors is the internal wastegate , there very prone to overboost ,
the flapper valve on the turbo is too small and unless it has been ported to help direct flow to the wastegate, the 90 deg angle the exhaust gasses have to take to exit the turbo housing just doesn't happen .
put a check valve on the gauge line so you can see what it peaks at, even on the dyno it can be difficult to check boost creep as there is a lot going on to watch
continually rising torque curve is a good indicator
The line and fittings are 8.If the smoke persist I will go with a scavenge pump.I noticed the exhaust pipe has a film of oily black soot. I am hoping this is from sitting for so long,the bike sat for a year before I bought it and another 6 are so months after.So I hope it burns off,if not it's not that hard too just install a scavenge pump for safety.As for the boost creep I shall install a check valve.Now should that be installed only for the dyno?Thanks again for helping me for I knew fairly little about turbo's before going into this.It's nice to know that people are kind enouph too give others advice and not rag them on knowing little are because there modding these bikes.I appreciate the advice from everyone here who has helped me and I will continue to inform you all on my progress.
Talked to the guy who installed the turbo on the bike and he told me it does need a scavenge pump.And that he had told the guy I bought it from to install one.So scavenge pump it is.Would this do the job?What do you recommend as this one the hose looks smaller than my setup and I would have to use my spare oil pan and tap into it and use new fittings. http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/ca...showprevnext=1
Talked to the guy who installed the turbo on the bike and he told me it does need a scavenge pump.And that he had told the guy I bought it from to install one.So scavenge pump it is.Would this do the job?What do you recommend as this one the hose looks smaller than my setup and I would have to use my spare oil pan and tap into it and use new fittings. http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/ca...showprevnext=1
I have tried electric pumps, and if you use one, get a high quality one. I ended up going with a mechanical one
I use the vdo when i need a scavenge pump, definitely not cheap but no issues with reliability , its about the size of 2 d cell batterys end on end , cheapest source is ebay .
put one on a zx14 i finished last month, just brought a billit filler cap and put the return in there , but the 14 has no timing plug, on a suzuki i would use the timing plug as the return, and put a check valve in the supply 1/8 gas low break point ball type ,
Thanks Jason.That is the route I will take.Seem's Emtes site is closed and bigcc only handles them for busa's so I sent Emtes a email.I found tons of catch cans on ebay.Should the catch can be vented?Cant see the mounting for your can in the photo.
Thanks Jason.That is the route I will take.Seem's Emtes site is closed and bigcc only handles them for busa's so I sent Emtes a email.I found tons of catch cans on ebay.Should the catch can be vented?Cant see the mounting for your can in the photo.
Yes, my catch can is welded to the bottom of my oilpan, and it is vented, you can see the vent line going into my oil cap. I use to use an electronic pump with a switch, and while cruising on the highway below boost RPMs, I use to turn the switch off for a second and smoke the crap out of my friends following me like spy hunter. It was funny as heck. I dont advise doing that, but I was just messing around with my buddies a couple times. Good luck finding one of those mechanical pumps, they are awesome, but if it is not set up right, they can be problematic. That is why NLR stopped selling them, cuz noobies kept complaining about smoking, but it was from improper installation, not from a defective product.
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200 mph street going turbo gixxer 1k with too many mods to list..
Ok cant get in touch with Emtes So just untill I can I need to get dyno so I will just for now go with the cheap pump from cycle logic.Do I have to run a catch can?Are can I hook it straight to the turbo?For it pumps very little.And do I have to take out the oil restrictor on the feed side so it pumps more oil into the turbo?Ive been searching all over and all I can find is info on cars and the info on bikes show very little info only bragging.
leave the restrictor in , parrallel the oil pump with the fuel pump power
i put the original fuel pump power to the oil pump and run a relay triggered from same to run the fuel pump from heavier wires direct from battery .
do put a check valve in the supply side , otherwise overnite the oil can build up in the turbo as it drains from the head etc and end up with a smoking turbo soon after startup
lightobject has little oil pumps for $13 or so , Jason you may recognise a water pump
Bonedeep, if you know anyone with machining skills you can make a emtes type pump , seen a guy in the UK make one from an old honda oil pump gears, , just need an extension on the starter clutch bolt and mount it on the cover plug
Thank you Maj I saw that also the gears look just like the gears in my sons little 50 dirt bike and its worth having a friend try to make one.I was sitting at a red light today smoking out the traffic behind me bet they was thinking look at that junk.I already ordered the little pump from cycle logic and hopefully will get to the dyno in the next week are two.At first I was kicking myself for buying this bike but I learned allot about the bike itself for every other bike I had never gave me trouble and now after taking off and putting the motor back on 4 times I know what almost everything is.Now my only worry is the guy who will dyno it and if he knows enouph about turbo's to set everything corectly.Fuel pressure at rail Rise x boost and idle pressure + timeing.I only plan on running 4psi just to stay on the safe side.Thanks again for everyones help.
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