FIRST, there will be several posts as, i write, please DON'T hesitate comment or post until I say I am done.
This is not overly complicated, but it takes some intellect, and basically mechanical competency. If you can adjust and shim your valves, and have access to the tools necessary to do this, it is reasonable that you can successfully do this.
It is easiest done with the motor removed from the frame, but I have most often done it with it installed in rolling frame.
I use a Hot cams kit, but all you need is something to thread into the spark plug hole to find tdc, a degree wheel, and a dial indicator with some versatility.
The cams I was degreeing were ones that I had bought, never used, sold to Sleeper750, and had sent back to me my WILLIAMHBONNEY. They are stock cams with APE slotted cam sprockets and press on carriers installed. ***It is important to note that if you are installing cams with non-stock profiles, you should follow the mfg install notes, and likely not install by lobe center timing.
So...... Assuming that you have uncovered your motor, lets take the valve cover off, and remove the timing plug and the small round cover over the right hand side of the crankshaft so we can turn the motor with a 14mm socket.
Let's take the spark plugs out so that we don't have any compression to overcome.
Then, we turn the motor in the forward direction until the timing mark lines up, and the marks on the cams indicate that 1 and 4 are at tdc.
#3 should be pointing up, reasonably vertically on the intake cam, and #2 should be doing the same on the exhaust cam. There should be 15 pins on the cam chain including the ones on the arrows, between the arrows.
****Refer to these criteria upon reinstall on cams for timing.
At this point I placed my replacement cams over the stock cams to verify that the adapters had been pressed on in appropriate locations and that the sprockets were timed accordingly.
I then did a quick valve lash check, as this motor was the subject of a exhausting top end rebuild a year or two ago, and the valves were bench shimmed after the head came back from APE with a full radius valve job, and considerable seat material cut away. The motor was then broken in on the track in expert level sessions for 2.25 track days until the big crash. Close inspection revealed four valves that would need reshimming, which I did while the cams were being swapped.
This is not overly complicated, but it takes some intellect, and basically mechanical competency. If you can adjust and shim your valves, and have access to the tools necessary to do this, it is reasonable that you can successfully do this.
It is easiest done with the motor removed from the frame, but I have most often done it with it installed in rolling frame.
I use a Hot cams kit, but all you need is something to thread into the spark plug hole to find tdc, a degree wheel, and a dial indicator with some versatility.
The cams I was degreeing were ones that I had bought, never used, sold to Sleeper750, and had sent back to me my WILLIAMHBONNEY. They are stock cams with APE slotted cam sprockets and press on carriers installed. ***It is important to note that if you are installing cams with non-stock profiles, you should follow the mfg install notes, and likely not install by lobe center timing.
So...... Assuming that you have uncovered your motor, lets take the valve cover off, and remove the timing plug and the small round cover over the right hand side of the crankshaft so we can turn the motor with a 14mm socket.
Let's take the spark plugs out so that we don't have any compression to overcome.
Then, we turn the motor in the forward direction until the timing mark lines up, and the marks on the cams indicate that 1 and 4 are at tdc.
#3 should be pointing up, reasonably vertically on the intake cam, and #2 should be doing the same on the exhaust cam. There should be 15 pins on the cam chain including the ones on the arrows, between the arrows.
****Refer to these criteria upon reinstall on cams for timing.
At this point I placed my replacement cams over the stock cams to verify that the adapters had been pressed on in appropriate locations and that the sprockets were timed accordingly.
I then did a quick valve lash check, as this motor was the subject of a exhausting top end rebuild a year or two ago, and the valves were bench shimmed after the head came back from APE with a full radius valve job, and considerable seat material cut away. The motor was then broken in on the track in expert level sessions for 2.25 track days until the big crash. Close inspection revealed four valves that would need reshimming, which I did while the cams were being swapped.