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Sealing Clutch cover after servicing - Liquid Gasket needed?

15K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  ccmhunt 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all!

When closing the clutch cover on a SRAD 750, do I really need to use that Suzuki bond as they say in the service manual? A new gasket alone is not enough? Why do they say to place that bond only in those two places?
And if I have to use a liquid gasket, can I use a general-automotive purpose one instead of the Suzuki Bond?

 
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#2 ·
You need to do this because this is the split in the cases and a gasket might not seal inside the very small crack.

I would NOT use standard silicone bases stuff. It tends to break loose and end up in the oil sump screen... NOt good.

You have get the correct stuff at cycle gear or any other bike shop... It does not need to be the Suzuki brand. I forget the name of what I use, but it is grey in color and designed for sealing cases... Works great.

John
 
#3 ·
Shit shit shit shit shit!!!
Thank you for your reply, that was all I didn't want to hear. That liquid gasket that I have (pattex nural 28) is silicone based yes...it was supposed to be oil and temperature resistant and to be used in car engines! Grrr
Anyway, can you advise me a name of the sealant that I should use? BTW, something that I can get in Europe or Ebay please...
 
#4 ·
Yamabond or suzukibond will work.
The silicone stuff does work but folks tend to overdo it and it squeezes out inside.
No reason to panic unless you used a whole tube on the clutch cover.
A light smear all you need.
Many mechanics simply use grease on both sides of the gasket to swell it slightly for a better seal.
Sometimes it leaks and sometimes not.
 
#7 ·
Yamabond is a great product. I used an off name of that.. I wish I was home to check it.

You should NOT need to put it all the way around. If you do, it just makes it harder to clean off later.

As SRAIDIATOR said, if you dont use a lot of the automotive stuff, you should be fine. I use the stuff I have, well, because I have it. :D I would NEVER use that automotive stuff for sealing two cases tho...

John
 
#9 ·
Thanks for you replies...I will give it a try with the the one that I have, money isn't abundant around here these days! :-(
For the next time I will get the Yamabond, I guess that's something one need to have around for general maintainance...

Thanks!
 
#13 ·
Nice, thanks for the warning! There was a possibility that I miss those...it depends on the mood!! lol

Ferni, thank for the references and Maj750 thanks for the heads up about the scaring surfaces, I guess you saved me/the next owner some cursing! Even though that I'm not planning reopening this cover anytime soon.

Well, two weeks ago I ordered the 30mm socket for the clutch, and this saturday I went to the store to find out that I didn't ordered it...the things you find out you didn't do! Anyway, two more weeks of waiting and then I'm solving the huge clutch drag in it...as soon as I close it, I'm reporting here how it went!
Thank you all!
 
#12 ·
sagless silicone (sounds like implants ;) ) is the automotive stuff, toyotabond or 3 bond 1211 is what is available here easily,

new gasket and only a spot of sealant if any , and next time you will not have to scrape all the old crap off & if you scar the mating faces its harder to clean next time
 
#15 ·
Checked then, they aren't warped, all measurements check ok...after cleaning and soaking in oil, I'm reassembling them.
Although, I have a question, there is a washer right after the basket nut...what's the orientation of that washer? Should the inside edge be facing outsito (to me) or inside (facing the engine)?
BTW, and those diaphragm springs? I htink they are oriented in the right way, just want to confirm, because the service manula isn't clear on that!
 
#16 ·
In case someone else has the same doubts as me, After cleaning the springs and the washer right next to the nut, it was clear how they were mounted before because you can clearly see some wearing marks from the contact points. In the washer you can see the nut shade, and in the springs you can see some wear in the center of the springs from the spring "holder" (the thing that looks like a cup).

Also, I did this clutch service to find out why was it dragging (in a paddock stand with clutch lever pulled all the way the wheel will rotate and couldn't be stopped with hand force), there was nothing obvious, I just followed a tip to deep the plates in oil overnight , clean all the gunk and file down notches in the baskets if there was. Voila, no more dragging clutch and gearbox operation is much smoother!

Thank you for all your tips, I ended up with no leaks! :)
 
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