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GSXR 1100WS 1995 HP and Torque

10K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  wombat58 
#1 ·
So I’m a little new to this whole bike game, but I’m interested in learning a little more.
I’m another pose I asked the question, “What is the stock HP for 1995 GXSR 1100W at the rear wheel?”
The response that was most clear was from crzoomb at 124HP
On the Bikez website it’s quoted at 153 HP and 110 Torque, I’m assuming this is at the “Flywheel”
http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/suzuki_gsx-r_1100_ws_1995.php

So a few more questions:
1) Is it really a 29HP drop through the transmission? I was given the impression Bikes didn’t lose as much as cars did.
2) What the HP/Torqure of a newer 06/07 1000? Does the older 1100 bikes really compare in anyway? I've had a hard time finding this info. I did notice the newer bikes are up to about 80 pounds lighter, that’s huge!
3) I’ve been told that the 1100 are a rather top heavy bike and that they aren’t really balanced well for twisty work. That are your guy’s thoughts on this?

Thanks!
Rob
 
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#2 ·
1. That crankshaft figure is for derestricted Canadian/Euro 1100s,they made between 133-139 rwhp with 84 ft/lbs.The USA 1100 is strangled with 36mm carbs,wheelie wire,and more restictive stock exhaust

2.Lots...06 gsxr ran a 9.7@148mph 1/4 mile not sure on torque.
1995 can/euro ran a 10.07 at 135 mph.

3.You can always put a 750 swingarm on to quicken the steering.I've roached guys on gsxr 1000 cbr 954 etc..BUT had my ass handed to me from a 60 year old guy on a Triumph Bonneville( was that you Tim?)..It really comes down to the rider as far as road bikes go.You will feel that fuel tank when its full thats for sure
 
#5 ·
You will need 750 inlet boots and a 750 airbox and carb boots if you want stage 1,Your existing throttle cables are the same.Biggest headache is getting the 36mm inlet boots off,the 8 eight countersunk philips screws are covered in Loctite.
 
#6 · (Edited)
3.You can always put a 750 swingarm on to quicken the steering.I've roached guys on gsxr 1000 cbr 954 etc..BUT had my ass handed to me from a 60 year old guy on a Triumph Bonneville( was that you Tim?)..It really comes down to the rider as far as road bikes go.You will feel that fuel tank when its full thats for sure[/QUOTE]
Nope, I'm only 59.:D :punk
See Dave, when your 59 you'll get to stay up past 2 am, as well.
 
#7 ·
Just got the new motorcyclist in the mail yesterday and the 07 gsxr 1000 is putting out 158 rwhp and 75 ft/lbs
 
#8 ·
evo does still have the 40mm carbs. they are already jetted witha foactory pro kit.
 
#9 ·
with lots of KY you can still get the 40mm into the 36mm carb boots.. :) a well tuned 1100 should have no issue keeping up with 98% of the newer bikes, your hindle is a plus,, and you can always opt for the big bore kits, that still keep the factory bits. ( more bullet proof imho than the newer ones).
as far as the twisties, the 750 swingarm is a + also. keep in mind that the 1100's were track ridden in the day :) add a shot of nos and you'll still get head turners even on the 1000's ;)
 
#10 ·
crzoomb said:
You will need 750 inlet boots and a 750 airbox and carb boots if you want stage 1,Your existing throttle cables are the same.Biggest headache is getting the 36mm inlet boots off,the 8 eight countersunk philips screws are covered in Loctite.
I'm really liking this mod idea, I think that I'll have to hunt down EVO's carbs and see how much he wants for them.

Would a 1995 750 swing arm work? Or am a looking at a diffrent year?

crzoomb said:
Just got the new motorcyclist in the mail yesterday and the 07 gsxr 1000 is putting out 158 rwhp and 75 ft/lbs
Awsome, thanks for the update!

:cheers
 
#11 ·
#14 ·
From the research I've done over the past few years of building my flying anvil, I've concluded that to be competitive with the newer bikes you've gotta spend some money!! First off, the suspension was not up to par back then, and comparativly speaking, stoneage compared to today's technology. So for starters, rear shock upgrade and re-valving front forks for your weight will be a huge jump in the right direction. For better turning and more flickable the 750 braced arm is the way to go (shortens the wheel base by appr. 2 inches). This will however make it even more wheelie prone! Next, Power - Carbs, which there are several option's - 38mm from the 750's - 40's from the Cad/Euro 1100's - Keihin FCR - Mikuni Flatslides,etc... All a move in the right direction, jetting will be propriatary to your use of airbox or not. And of course the Exhaust system!!
Keep in mind - The combustion Engine is an Airpump - move air in and out more efficiantly w/ proper fuel and timing and make gobs of power!
Removal of the wheelie wire is a plus for first gear runs, draggin etc. Ignition advancer, cheap linear power throughout the powerband. Keeping the engine cooler is a plus (fan, coolant, t-stat) , synthetic oil has less parasitic drag on the crank and valvetrain. Good plugs!! NGK or Denso all the way - nothing else is even close! Gear ratio (sprockets) will play a role in how fast you get from point A to point B! A good x or o-ring chain will help in the poweer transfer. Unloading some overall weight will help in the fight of Power to weight ratio as well. Some forms of weight reduction would be: Brakes (rotor's calipers,lines) , exhaust (aftermarket 4-1), wheels (swap from newer bikes or aftermarket Billet or Magnesium), Fairing's, etc... You get the idea. And it's all based off budget - so do what you can afford.
 
#15 ·
Indeed! Thanks Evo, great words of wisdom!

Right now I’m rather sure that I wish to do the 750 rear arm, and the 40mm carbs.
I believe I have the right flow allowance from the exhaust, but later as I find better I may up that to more.
When I do the rear arm I’m sure I’ll be dropping my wallet into a good set suspension all around.

Things that I can afford and do right now are the fan (cause I’m going to have to anyway) and the coolant (As I’ve drained the bike to take the radiator off)

Answers I’m still looking for:
I have a 1995 1100W what 750 rear swing arm do I need to get?(A 1995?) Also Does the stock body look funny with the shorter arm? If so should I look at getting a 750 sub frame or something too?
What coolant would you recommend?
What synthetic oil?
Who makes a good Ignition advancer for the 1100?
Hell, while I’m at it, what’s a good suspension setup for our bikes?
EVO do you still have them 40mm cabs? :)

Not all of this is getting done in the next month, as I would like to get out and just ride. But I expect to start stocking parts for the winter upgrading. :)
 
#16 ·
EVO said:
...all weight will help in the fight of Power to weight ratio as well. Some forms of weight reduction would be: Brakes (rotor's calipers,lines) , exhaust (aftermarket 4-1), wheels (swap from newer bikes or aftermarket Billet or Magnesium), Fairing's, etc... You get the idea. And it's all based off budget - so do what you can afford.
EVO,
This can be a great motivator for those of us on the portly side, weight-wise. Not only can we become healthier, but our bike's performance will improve and the money we save on eating less/health costs can be used, in part, to update our technology! Weight Watchers here I come. :cool
 
#17 ·
robduf said:
Indeed! Thanks Evo, great words of wisdom!

Right now I’m rather sure that I wish to do the 750 rear arm, and the 40mm carbs.
I believe I have the right flow allowance from the exhaust, but later as I find better I may up that to more.
When I do the rear arm I’m sure I’ll be dropping my wallet into a good set suspension all around.

Things that I can afford and do right now are the fan (cause I’m going to have to anyway) and the coolant (As I’ve drained the bike to take the radiator off)

Answers I’m still looking for:
I have a 1995 1100W what 750 rear swing arm do I need to get?(A 1995?) Also Does the stock body look funny with the shorter arm? If so should I look at getting a 750 sub frame or something too?
What coolant would you recommend?
What synthetic oil?
Who makes a good Ignition advancer for the 1100?
Hell, while I’m at it, what’s a good suspension setup for our bikes?
EVO do you still have them 40mm cabs? :)

Not all of this is getting done in the next month, as I would like to get out and just ride. But I expect to start stocking parts for the winter upgrading. :)
You need the arm off a 1994-1995 GSX-R750. Youll need to get the brake caliper bracket (to be safe) and the plastic chain guide that's near the swingarm pivot bolt. I think most of the other stuff is the same as your's if it's a 95-98 braced arm already. Keep in mind your rear brake line will be a bit longer now. I don't think there's a significant length diff between the 750-1100 rear section's, I haven't hung, mine yet but soon enough I'll tell ya.
Ignition advancer's can be had from several places, besides the obvious Ebay, if on Ebay look for a Yoshimura unit (seller Keethgonz sells a bunch of New old stock Yoshi stuff). Try Vance & Hines & Factory Pro if your lookin to order w/o delay.
Pick-up a Fox twin-clicker used, new, rebuilt whatever, good reasonably priced rear suspension, get a spring for your body weight. Get the front forks, fluid changed (fluid weight makes a diff. also) and new upgraded .95kg springs, several companies make them.

I sold my 40's. But look for either the 40's or a set of clean 38's, but both kits will need to be jetted, get the jet-kit from Factory-Pro, they can also hook you up with the BMC filters.
Hope this help's gettin ya started.
Cheers.
 
#18 ·
I need help wiring my 95 gsxr 1100 to the point that it will start and run reliably and strong. I have a dyna2000 ignition module installed already but that's about all I know is hooked up the way it's supposed to be. All the other wires I don't know which goes where and what does what, I just want the minimum wiring done to get it started and be able to ride it without complication before riding season is over. If anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated. Btw If anyone could send me pictures of what needs to be on my bike and what wires have to be used and which ones don't it would help me big as well. Thank you
 
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