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Penske vs. Stock

5K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  DontLetOff 
#1 ·
Ok guys, Im doing research so that I can get my forks revalved and all to be set of my weight. The shop Im going to said they can do the stock ones for 325 but they recommend the Penske 20mm kit. They say its the best "bang for your buck". What Im wondering is, what are the real advantages of the Penske over stock. I am doing two trackdays this year(first time on the track) and ride briskly, but no knee dragging or anything on the street. Would I really benefit from the Penske kit over redone stock forks:dunno Any and all input is welcome. Keep in mind, I know literally jack shit about suspension:)

:cheers
 
#2 ·
Unless you have submitted your weight to Guiness book of world records, I'd set the suspension as is or spend a couple hundred bucks for the right springs front and rear and set the suspension. That's all I'd do for now unless you really want to spend you money.
 
#3 ·
Speaking for myself. Just my 2c.

Stock suspension is too restrictive in correct travel comparing to penske/ohlins kits/shocks.
I run 2 identical '07 GSXR600's. one is track bike another dedicated to treet.
I never thought of dragging knees on track or testing the limits of streetbike in ways I do now. What gives me the confidence after 2near-death crashes is knowing that I have a lot in reserve! When it comes ti brakes, tires suspension -I get the best for few reasons. 1- It always changes the feel of a bike for better. 2- It keeps it's value even when you want to sell the bike!

I run Pirellis, Brembo/Accossato M/C 's, stainless lines, HH pads, Ohlins, and never regred it!
 
#4 ·
if you do 1 td a yr, dont bother with an aftermarket rear shock. its a waste.

if you ride track, then by all means, score an aftermrket rear shock.

i have an elka tripple clicker w/remote res +high/low speed adjustments and LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!
 
#6 ·
Penske 20mm kit?

never even heard of it. AK and GPsuspension 20mm kits I have heard of though. They are basically a stock upgrade. NOt sure what they would be doing to the stock stuff (other than reshimming maybe) but that is not worth the money at all really.

What you probably need if anything is just springs. $200... $100 for front two, and $100 for rear spring, plus money to have them installed, then money to have it all bench dialed so it is balanced for you and ride the damn thing.
 
#7 ·
NOt sure what they would be doing to the stock stuff (other than reshimming maybe) but that is not worth the money at all really.
A guy who builds race bikes said, that with stock parts and reshimming you can get pretty good results. I had my front forks reshimmed and new gp-susp comp needles and there is a night and day difference, I already had springs for my weight. So if you are not on the top level of racing and want value for your money, then reshimming is the way to go. Doing it right requires knowledge, so take it to a professional.
 
#12 ·
Money spent on Suspension is money well spent...

You can ad 10 horse power on the engine, and that does not do much if you have stock suspension... On the other hand a bike with good suspension can run circles around a bike with 10 more horse power...

Suspension gives you confidence to open the throttle and go faster than you thought you could... Even going on a straight line stock suspension makes your rear tire slip... Goods suspension and sorted geometry is going to make that rear tire bite!!! You crank the throttle and the bike goes...

Going from bone stock suspension to Traxxion AK20 and a Penske Shock, the bike on the streets felt a bit harsh... But, when you open the throttle is like you are riding on glass... You point and the bike goes there no questions asked...

All I can tell you from Personal Experience, If I ever buy a brand new sport bike, I am going to trailer the bike to a race shop, and have them do complete suspension, geometry and tires, BEFORE I RIDE IT!!! (I would also break in the engine on a dyno, replace the stock master cylinder and brake pads.)

:D Luis
 
#13 ·
For most the best money is usually spent on rider(gear & training, tracktime, practice) then bike(tires then suspension then brakes then engine/trans). Even if you only ride on the street you will massively appreciate suspension work - most important is right springs for your weight and use (smooth track vs road with passenger, oem is typically designed for 140lb rider, no passenger), then rear shock (Ohlins $800-1200, get deals on EBay), then front fork internals(TraxxionDynamics, RaceTech, Ohlins for $1000-1200 installed w/ springs). And get it setup right - sag, preload, fork travel indicator to detect bottoming. Then brakes - first front mastercylinder(Brembo $300+/-), then front calipers&pads(Brembo $1200), then front rotors($600+), lastly rear (stock rear is usually fine unless you use it aggressively for wheelie control).
 
#14 ·
Even if you only ride on the street you will massively appreciate suspension work - most important is right springs for your weight and use (smooth track vs road with passenger, oem is typically designed for 140lb rider, no passenger), then rear shock (Ohlins $800-1200), then front fork internals(TraxxionDynamics, RaceTech, Ohlins for $1000-1200 installed w/ springs). And get it setup right - sags, preload w/ fork travel indicator to ensure you don't bottom out.
Your weight number is way off on modern bikes.

And few people will appreciate full suspension changes on a street bike.

Don't confuse it feeling different with it being better.

The average stock suspension is more than capable of perfectly handling the tiny amount of performance asked of it by an average rider on the track even... let alone the street
 
#15 ·
Moto Joe - just checked RaceTech, who list stock spring rates, and you are correct for 2005+ GSXR's, most are 0.9-.98 kg/mm front - ok for 160-180lb rider - much better than the old days; rear are 9-11 so seem in the ballpark. Regarding noticeable, I definitely definitely noticed AK-20 & SU503 vs OEM maintained & setup suspension on GSXR1k5. Definitely. Hugely smoother bump absorption, better feel of road and brakes and tire traction, especially leaned over. Road and especially track. I think almost anyone would.
 
#16 ·
Setting suspension yourself is not that hard. My bike felt like crap when I rode it home from the dealer. It was obvious that the previous owner couldn't corner well and really wanted the bike to ride like a 1974 Buick Regal. It probably took me 20 minutes to change the bike completely.
I am lucky that I have set up dirtbikes before and that I have a twin brother that weighs the same amount I do. With his help, I can set up my bike quite well in a short amount of time. There are all kinds of how to videos and articles as well. Of course, You will need a basic understanding of how it works first, for sure.
 
#17 ·
Just get a neon light kit, an anodized bolt kit and some pointed chrome bar ends. That's all you really need to make it ride great. Don't forget the red helmet mohawk.

If it were me ( and I'm a cheap bastard) I'd get a couple lighter springs for your weight and have them installed. Then pay $40 for a good tuner to set you up with the stock suspension. You'll be amazed. If you start tracking a lot then look into the high dollar stuff. It's a diminishing returns philosophy at this point. It's hard to out ride stock stuff on the street now days ( if set right). I'm running low A/ high B group pace on track with a 100% stock new model GSXR and street tires...and loving it.

I'd listen to Moto Joe.
 
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