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New gen gauge swap info/instructions

278K views 471 replies 144 participants last post by  K3lewi 
#1 ·
Since my last post on this got deleated... here it is again: all the info you should need to swap a new generation instrument cluster to your SRAD


PS: to get rid of the "CHECK" Fi light on the 98-99 750's try using the 96-97 radiators since it has a rad-mounted thermostat... you will have to extend the wires on the harness... it might fix the problem since it did when I did my 1k-swap


here is the original post for you to look through if you want more info: http://www.gixxer.com/ubbthreads/showfla...part=1&vc=1

freebie said:
The connector is the same on both models of bikes...If you look at the connector you will see at the top were the wires go in that it opens up. After you open up the two plastic pieces you can use a safety pin from the other side to lift the tab in the connector to free each of the pins. Its tricky but I did it. NO CUT WIRES...Then just put them in there new locations.
FUNCTION PINOUT on 2001 instrument cluster:
pin 1: ignition
pin 2: +12V constant!
pin 3: High beam
pin 4: R-turn
pin 5: L-turn
pin 6: Oil
pin 7: Temp. (sensor)
pin 8: Tacho
pin 9: Illimunation
pin 10: Temp.
pin 11: Neutral
pin 12: speed sensor
pin 13: Empty
pin 14: fuel A
pin 15: fuel B
pin 16: Speed plus

COLOR PINOUT on 2001 instrument cluster (I hope they are both the same
:
1. Green
2. 12v Constant
3. Black / Yellow
4. Light Green
5. Black
6. Green / Yellow
7. Black / Green
8. Yellow
9. Grey
10. Black / Brown or White (hard to tell what color it is.)
11. Blue
12. Orange / Red
13. Empty
14. Red / Black
15. Black / Light Green
16. Pink

NForcer said:
a56kuser said:
what i need to know is the following things so i can start
1. what wire did you use for the 12v constant and how did you put it in ie: solder, splice it?
2. can you mount it on the old gsxr gauge mounts?
a56kuser, here are the answers to your questions:

1. I wired the 12v constant directly to the positive connector on the battery. Very simple to route the wires.
2. You can't mount the old gauges to the old mount unless you just zip-tie them or frabricate a bracket. Luckily I have a diagram that you can use to create one yourself. It is very simple and easy to do.. all you need is a little patience. Here is a picture of it.




Here is a link to download the PDF of the diagram. Let me know if you need any help!

Gauge bracket PDF
a56kuser said:
well i finished the project....
 
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#395 ·
Can someone help me out with teh fuel level lights? I can run relays, but I'd rather have something that consumes less power won't be affected by a harsh ride (bumps)... I've got no fear of a soldering iron, but I am not an EE -- tell me which parts to buy/how to connect, and I can follow the schematics/instructions... I figure I could use a few transistors to get this done, but no clue which ones.
 
#396 ·
to sort the Fuel Light issue, you need "pull-up" resistors for each of the fuel wires. iirc the Y-k1 clocks had 2 fuel sender wires (A and B) and the k2-k3 had a single fuel sender wire. so depending on your clocks will depend if you need to wire a pull up resistor for fuel A and one for fuel B sender or just for the one wire that will be use.

**the Y-K1 bikes used a FLLR (fuel level light resistor) which was the pull up resistors for the 2 fuel sender wires. But you could make your own pull up from a resistor on each circuit connected to 12v (will need to check what the ohms is)

i'm in the mids of programming an arduino to sort out the Temp/Error light issue due to clock not receiving the data information from the ECU. The bench test is working so far and i'm waiting for a few bits to start making up to attach to the bike. so i can do a direct plug in to my clock harness so i dont have to re-pin my harness plug.




The FLLR from a Y model









using some open coding from some peeps over on an SV forum, someone wrote a code to send the clock a temp number manually programmed into the arduino coding







someone did some coding for there SV project and i added the coding needing for the GSXR clocks and also allow it to getting a reading from an analog input on the arduino board which in turn was connected to the thermistor







 
#398 ·
After talking with a local gsxr rider, I got a teensy board, and some code and wired it into a 2001 750 gauge. the one thing I didn't sort out is the fuel level issue. Some posts say to use a set of relays to fix the fuel light; other posts say I need a resistor. What is needed to put a 2001 gauge in a 98?
 
#399 ·
Y-K1 600/750 used an external FLLR (resistors) so you need 2x 70 ohms resistors iirc from the book, both coming from a 12v + feed and then one goes to the fuel A wire and the other goes to the fuel B wire and they pull up the signal high.



i'm not to sure about the k2-3 600/750 as they never had the external FLLR so i dunno if there was something in the clock and also they only had the one fuel sensor wire
 
#404 ·
Has anyone tried the tlplanet converter yet? Im planning to get a k4 gauge soon and im going to try to get it to work. From my understanding the k2 and up gauges have the FLLR that is needed to fix the fuel light issue already installed and since i have a 99 750 which is FI then it, the fuel light, should work from the get go and the converter will handle the temp and check issues. The only issue i have with the whole shtich is the ecu pin out. I have the proper pin colors for the TL and the appropriate mods to make to the ECU harness. But i dont have the pin out for the gsxr. Does anyone know where i can get the proper pin out to cross reference and preform the mod?
 
#405 ·
here is the arduino coding i have been working on for my carbie solution


/*
* Copyright 2013 Aaron Turner
*
* Wrote this code to make it easy to built the temperature ADC map
* since the SV650 ECU has the ADC and it's up to the dash to convert
* that into degrees F/C. I used this with the OEM dash to figure out
* what ADC values mapped to what temperatures.
*
* To support 7800 baud, you have to hack your SoftwareSerial.cpp file
* and add this to the 16Mhz struct:
* { 7800, 138, 291, 291, 287, },
*
*
* Update By Blagger (www.Kill-switch.co.uk Forum)
*
* Removed and edited some of the base code for GSXR Dash support.
* Removed temperature change by buttons and added analog input from
* a thermistor connected to Analog Port 0.
* Changed ECU Pin to Digital Pin 5.
* Still supports Serial monitor (115200 baud)
*
*/
#include <SoftwareSerial.h>
#include <PT6961.h>
#define CS 10
#define MOSI 11
#define CLK 13

#define RX 4
#define TX 5 // ECU pin

#define ECU_SPEED 7800
#define BLINK_LED 13
#define BLINK_MS 500
int sbytes[8]; // 7 bytes for serial data
int current_temp;
int sensor; // Motorcycle Thermistor
int new_temp;

// init SoftwareSerial for ECU communications. Need to keep ecu global
SoftwareSerial ecu(RX, TX);
PT6961 LED(MOSI, CLK, CS);


void
clear_buf()
{
int j;
for (j = 0; j < 7; j++) {
sbytes[j] = 0;
}
}

void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
Serial.print("Starting\n");
LED.initDisplay();
ecu.begin(ECU_SPEED);
clear_buf();
calc_csum();
sensor = 0; //set which pin thermistor is connected too
current_temp = analogRead(sensor);
}

/*
* calculates the checksum of sbytes[]
*/
void
calc_csum() {
byte check_sum = 0;

// Calculate check sum byte
for (int x = 0; x <= 6; x++) {
check_sum = check_sum + sbytes[x];
}

sbytes[7] = 256 - check_sum;
}

// printf to the HW serial port
void
serial_printf(char *fmt, ... ) {
char tmp[128]; // resulting string limited to 128 chars
va_list args;
va_start (args, fmt );
vsnprintf(tmp, 128, fmt, args);
va_end (args);
Serial.print(tmp);
}

// Read temperature from thermistor
unsigned int
change_temp()
{
unsigned int temp = 0;
int sense = 0;

temp = sbytes[0] << 2;
temp += (sbytes[1] & 0xc0) >> 6;
sense= analogRead(sensor);
temp = sense;
sbytes[0] = temp >> 2;
sbytes[1] = temp << 6;

serial_printf("temp = %04u\n", temp);
calc_csum();
new_temp = temp;
return temp;
}


void
print_temp(unsigned int temp)
{
int i = 0;
byte val;
byte led_digits[4] = { 0xc0, 0xc2, 0xc4, 0xc6 };
LED.sendNum((int)temp, 0);
}

void loop()
{
int x;
unsigned int temp;

// Write data bytes to serial
for (x = 0; x <= 6; x++) {
ecu.write(sbytes[x]);
delay(10);
}
ecu.write(sbytes[7]);

// Intermessage delay
delay(60);


temp = change_temp();
print_temp(temp);
serial_printf("%02x %02x %02x %02x %02x %02x %02x %02x\n",
sbytes[0], sbytes[1], sbytes[2], sbytes[3],
sbytes[4], sbytes[5], sbytes[6], sbytes[7]);




}
 
#406 ·
So if been playing with blagger's code and a gauge an a few resistors a capacitor and a sv650 temp sensor and I'm happy to say it works on the bench the accuracy is with in 5deg c so I'm happy enough with that. Few deg out is better than not having any temp and the dreaded 'check' up so cheers dude good work. Does anyone have a copy of the template for mounting kicking about as the early links are dead.
 
#410 ·
Does anyone have a copy of the template for mounting kicking about as the early links are dead.
I have a printed copy; but unfortunately it was printed and resized. So my resulting mount was not usable.

I have it next to the copier so I can copy it and resize it to try to get it back to the proper dimensions... Sadly the original pdf is long gone here.
 
#408 ·
5v through a 2k resistor to the sensor then the signal taken with a 2.7k resistor going to pin a0 with a 0.1uf capaciter between that and ground made a little circuit board to tie it together same ground plane on it. I got better sesults with a temp sensor off a BMW it reads 2.7k at 16deg c where the sv reads 2.6k at 16 deg c so think it matches resisters better.
 
#413 ·
finally got around to testing this on the bike, still to test the temp i'l report back on that when iv fitted the sender, went for a quick test and the speedo is out, my old clocks i could hit 70mph reported in first gear, new clocks 86mph reported so according to the speedo healer calibration calculator i need to -18.6% to get back where i was before, now i could buy a healer at about £85, or i could try and do it on the cheap, does anyone know if the speed signal output from the sensor to the clocks is 12v or 5v??
 
#414 ·
personally, I'd save the headache and use a speedohealer (I use one) -- however, if you have a eeprom writer, you can "adjust" the gauge itself. (I adjusted the gauge to be spot on for my track-gearing; and then use the speedohealer when I change the gears to long-distance riding (aka cruising).
 
#416 ·
Right guys i have a k7 speedo wired onto my srad with some success.
When you turn the ignition on the unit tests and iluminates as it should.
The Indicators, Rev counter, and full beam indicator work as they should.

Ive spent a while with my front wheel on a paddock stand spinning it and i am not getting any signal to the speedo.

What i need to know is will the speedo work with the k1 wheels on the bike?
And what should be connected to get the speedo recieving a signal. To explain my actual loom was from a bandit because it was the only bike in the brakers with the same plug and the colors are random.

Cheers ebo
 
#419 ·
Right guys a i now have. Speedo, tach, indicators, netrual indicator and full beam indicator.
So im looking at the gear indicator like hmmm lol any thoughts guys? Looks like this though


Ovbiously fuel check oil etc are still dead but im chuffed to have the facelift :D
 
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