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Stator or battery going bad...

5K views 43 replies 10 participants last post by  MacBayne 
#1 ·
I have a 2007 600 that I bought last year. When I bought it the guy replaced the battery. I ride it everyday, well almost everyday. Normally my trips are 2-4 miles at a time. The weather here has been getting colder. Dropping down to low 30s. The bike has been getting harder to start, as in needing to crank more before firing. Today, after riding the bike about 4 miles or so, I parked my bike at this business I was going to and turned it off. After I found out I couldn't park there I tried to start the bike and it cranked for a few and then eventually wouldn't crank at all. The lights were still on but it wouldn't crank. I think the clock reset too. Anyways I left the bike there and them came back about 4 hours later and tried to start it again. This time after a few extra seconds of cranking it started up. I have it on a trickle charger for the night. Do you think its the stator or the battery? I'm not really sure how to tell which one it might be. Thanks. :dunno
 
#4 ·
Pretty weird, i just posted a thread similar to this. Id do as samantha suggested, and check the rectifier and stator first. The stator is what keeps the bike running once its on.

If someone chimes in on my thread ill let you know and hopefully itll help you out too.
 
#5 ·
Did you get any other information on this? I have to let my bike sit for atleast an hour before starting it up. If I start it any sooner it will sound like its dying but if I let it sit for an hour it will fire right up. Which by the way is super annoying considering I haven't fixed it yet and had to walk home today. :banghead
 
#6 ·
I raised my cold start idle, and it kinda worked. I still have to give it around 5% throttle to start her up, after that no problem.

Bump up your cold start idle to around 1900rpm and leave your warm idle to 1300 ±100.

Did you check your stator and rectifier?
 
#7 ·
I'm doing that right now. I did the flow chart on it but I ran a trickle charge on it the night before. I'm thinking that might've given me a false positive. I'm trying to figure out how to get to the stator and rectifier to check the connections. When I did the flow chart the first time that is where it led me too. We will see how it goes. I'm thinking I might need to pull a lot apart to get to them. Also when I start it right after running it sounds like there is very little "juice" in the battery. So I have to let it sit for a while. I'm not sure how to adjust the idle.
 
#9 ·
Its all gonna be in the manual.

The rectifier is probably the easiest one. Id take care of that one first just to get it out the way. Unbolt it and lift the gas tank to remove the airbox. Its held down by a bunch of screws on the edge of the black airbox IIRC. Itll give you access to the wires that lead off from the rectifier. Then use a multimeter to test out the connections mentioned in the service manual.

The stator will work the same way, except youre gonna need to test it with a different setting of course, and with the bike turned on. You need both readings at idle and at around 4 or 5k rpm.

Keep us posted.
 
#11 ·
I took of the top of the screws to the airbox but I'm not able to get the whole unit off without loosing the screws of the 4 air intake valves. Is there an easier way to get to it? Should I take off the radiator? That's my next bet it is to try to take that off. I'm can sort of see the wires but I can't get to them.
 
#12 ·
Go ahead and remove the screws from the intake valves. I forgot to mention those. Just make sure you keep them very well covered as you dont want anything to get in there. I used blue painters tape to cover them up when i did this.
 
#16 ·
Got it off finally! it was a pain but I used a regular screw driver and just angled it with some pressure at the middle 2 and them came out. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it goes with cleaning the connections and trying it out.
 
#18 ·
Well the battery is only a year old and I have put the trickle charge on it. When I did that and did the test I get the same result as I did today when it wasn't on the trickle charge. So I assume that it isn't the battery. I just sprayed contact cleaner on the connections for the stator and regulator. So hopefully that is the problem. The voltage meeter I have is saying that I'm at 14.7 volts so it points to cleaning the connections. We will see.
 
#19 ·
Well I cleaned the connections. Took it for a 5 mile ride or so came home. I let it sit for 5 minutes and it wouldn't start. It did the battery isn't charged thing. I followed this test, , and the outline I have, from earlier in the post, and I don't know where I went wrong. They stator checked out fine. Atleast from what the youtube video said. The rectifier is the one that keeps it running I thought? So maybe I should buy a new stator? I'm not sure where to go from here. Anyone else have any ideas on it?
 
#20 · (Edited)
The stator is the alternator that generates electricity, the rectifier converts from AC to DC and regulates the current. If the rectifier goes out one of two things happens, it does not charge the battery or worse, it cooks the battery, blows fuses and can damage the ECU. K6/7 have known rectifier issues and fried rectifiers are common as I previously stated. Maybe take it to a shop, you say the stator tested fine but you want to buy a new one?
 
#22 ·
I was just out of ideas on what to do for the bike. I figure if it I can't figure out which one it is then maybe just replace all of them. I will get it to a shop soon to do a load test on the battery. Do you guys think I might have some bad wires or anything like that? Maybe the battery is just going bad.
 
#21 ·
Sounds like the battery isnt holding the charge. I had to replace my battery yesterday. Take it to a shop where they can do a load test on the battery and see if the voltage stays above 12V at 5amps. If the charging voltages from the Regulator/Rectifier and Stator is okay then it has to be the battery. Also, if you only ride short distances all the time, shorter than 5miles, the battery will ge knackered after a while as its not fully charging. Cranking a bike takes almost most of the power fromyour battery. Good luck, hope you solve the problem. FIY the battery code should be YT12A-BS.
 
#24 ·
Its just like a regular alkaline battery in a flashlight. When the battery is dead, you can let it sit for a while and try to turn it on again. It will barely turn on and be very weak. Im guessing the bikes battery works similar to this :dunno

Take it to your nearest dealership or even a vatozone to test the load. It should be free and take no more than 2 minutes. Just take them your battery.
 
#26 ·
I took the battery out today and had a load test done on it. The battery tested fine it just needs a charge, which I'm doing right now. Then I'm going to check the stator by starting the bike and unhooking the positive terminal on the battery. Apparently the bike should keep running. Besides checking the connections do you guys know of any other ways to check the stator and rectifier?
 
#27 ·
The best and most accurate way is to do it how its stated in the manual. However, you can also just open the stator cover to visually inspect the stator to see if its burnt. It will be faster and easier than using the multimeter, but it only works if the stator is burnt already. If it looks good, youll have to put everything back together and use the multimeter way again. Your choice.

This is how mine looked like



Just remember, if its not burned, youll have to assemble everything and use the multimeter. If you already have extra oil, it shouldnt take long.
 
#30 ·
http://www.servicemanualsgsxr.com/suzuki-gsx-r-600-2006-2007-service-manual/

Download that in PDF.

Okay so I but the battery in today, after charging it all night. I started the bike up and took off the positive side of the battery terminal and the bike died. I did that twice just to make sure. The second time the bike sort of ran and then died. I'm thinking that this means that my stator is bad. You guys agree?
Its a pretty bad idea to disconnect the battery while running as the battery serves as some sort of surge protector. Make sure you didnt blow a fuse.

If i where you, i would either check the stator and rectifier according to the manual, or i would take it to the dealer to get checked. Itll save you a lot of time and guessing, and you wont risk hurting anything else on the bike.
 
#29 ·
Okay so I but the battery in today, after charging it all night. I started the bike up and took off the positive side of the battery terminal and the bike died. I did that twice just to make sure. The second time the bike sort of ran and then died. I'm thinking that this means that my stator is bad. You guys agree?
 
#34 ·
An alternator pretty much has a stator and rectifier built in, thus allowing it to output DC voltage straight out of the box. The stator only outputs AC voltage so it needs the rectifier to convert this into DC voltage and sends the extra voltage to ground regulating the current.

Theyre very similar, but its like comparing a whole car to just an engine.
 
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