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Changing Brake Fluid

30K views 64 replies 23 participants last post by  antoranton 
#1 ·
I got my manual, searched the threads, saw pics with a clear tube (that I don't have) and found lots of tips on what fluid to use. . . But the step by step hold your hand of "how to replace your brake fluid" isn't there.

Hold my hand?
 
#2 ·
http://www.spokes-women.org/Technical_Cornor/brake_bleeding.htm

:thumbup

And the clear tube can just be a piece of fuel hose - which you can get for next to nothing from any auto parts store. You'll need an 8 mm fixed spanner for the bleed nipples, preferably a ring type. Don't use an adjustable spanner, it will ruin that small nipple fast...
 
#6 ·
DOT 4 should be what the manual recommends but i could be wrong. thats just what I use. if you have a habor freight locally they sell a nice little kit that has a vacumm
 
#7 · (Edited)
I'd say changing it every 2 years would be just fine if you're not taking it to the track. Once it gets darker than a good scotch is my rule of thumb.

Use 3/8" fuel line to go from the bleeder to any old container you have handy. Keep pressure on the brake lever with one hand and use the wrench to slowly loosen the bleeder with the other. Just crack the bleeder open. As the lever gets near the bar (not all the way in) close off the bleeder. Repeat until the reservoir is almost empty - you'll get into a rhythm while doing it. Refill the res with fresh fluid. Once you've filled the res 3 times go to the other caliper and repeat. Fill the res only twice this time. Top off the res, clean up, and go ride.

I use the Prestone DOT 4 in any auto store. $6 for the big bottle. And yes, I close the bottle and save what I don't use for next time (or the car, or whatever).
 
#12 ·
you'll get into a rhythm while doing it. Refill the res with fresh fluid. Once you've filled the res 3 times go to the other caliper and repeat. Fill the res only twice this time. Top off the res, clean up, and go ride.
How come you only fill the res twice for the second caliper? And which caliper are you referring to? What if I do the front first then back?
 
#8 ·
Any quality brand DOT 4 or 5.1. DOT 5 is NOT compatible with these, it's a totally different fluid and can't be used.

5.1 has a higher boiling point than 4 but that doesn't really matter on the street. That's the main difference. OTOH, the prices of the two are usually pretty damn close so I use 5.1 in all my bikes myself.

Another thing. Once a bottle of brake fluid has been opened, the fluid will start absorbing moisture from the air that's left in the bottle, breaking down fast. The brake reservoir has that membrane to keep the air gap to a minimum at all times. For that reason only buy brake fluid in small bottles (they are 250ml here or about 9 oz) and throw them away after you change the fluid. The larger bottles are for cars. Don't be tempted to buy them for economy even if the volume price is lower - it'll just deteriorate on the shelf...

And - brake fluid ruins paint and plastic so clean off immediately if you spill on the bike.
 
#9 ·
And - brake fluid ruins paint and plastic so clean off immediately if you spill on the bike.
ask southernjeepn about that. he got some on his speedo cover and its all cloudy and nasty now:lol dont know how it made it all the way over there though:scratch
 
#10 ·
Yeah Dot 4 is what I'm supposed to use, they have valvoline, and store brand, no stp at this place but I can certainly look elsewhere, or the dealer. No harbor freight either.

How come one place I read I need to siphon the fluid out of my resivoir? Can't just bleed it through the valve? Guess that is what the vacuum is for?
 
#11 ·
Valvoline is just fine. You can also use car brake fluid as long as it's DOT 4 or 5.1 - same thing :thumbup

And you can just bleed the old fluid, no need for siphoning.
 
#15 ·
Ah HA! I would have figured that out if I realized there were two bleeder valves to each wheel. I haven't even taken a look yet. Just figured I'd get everything ready first.

Thanks a million!
 
#16 ·
Be extra super careful that whatever container you're using to catch the old brake fluid doesn't move and is out of the way! Don't be a dumbass and knock it over, covering the floor and your tire in goo. Not that I would know anything about it....
 
#17 ·
but make sure you bleed the brakes properly and take your time!!!

Good luck!
 
#18 ·
Do yourself a favor and suck most of the fluid from your res. to begin with, and then refill with fresh, this should cut down on the time quite a bit. Other then that you can gravity bleed them (open one or both bleeders) and let gravity do the work! May take a bit this way, or you can do the normal pump, open, close repeat method.. Your best bet is make sure the rev. never gets empty..
 
#20 ·
Another thing. Once a bottle of brake fluid has been opened, the fluid will start absorbing moisture from the air that's left in the bottle, breaking down fast. The brake reservoir has that membrane to keep the air gap to a minimum at all times. For that reason only buy brake fluid in small bottles (they are 250ml here or about 9 oz) and throw them away after you change the fluid. The larger bottles are for cars. Don't be tempted to buy them for economy even if the volume price is lower - it'll just deteriorate on the shelf...
I never knew that. This is good to know. Thanks. :thumbup
 
#30 ·
I'm off to do a coolant change then, maybe I should leave that to the pros as well since they're gonna be raping me anyhow for brakes. How the hell am I ever gonna' learn this stuff?

Its frustrating, but I'm glad you all have my best interest in mind. Thank you.
 
#31 ·
I'm off to do a coolant change then, maybe I should leave that to the pros as well since they're gonna be raping me anyhow for brakes. How the hell am I ever gonna' learn this stuff?

Its frustrating, but I'm glad you all have my best interest in mind. Thank you.
You need to learn from somebody who is good at doing it. It's hard to learn by reading and not watching. The coolant change doesn't endanger your life. Bleeding brakes on a bike is no different than doing it on a car so if you know a good brake shop take it there instead of the dealer. They may even let you watch or help.:dunno
 
#45 ·
Hell Kimmy, I'll do it for free for you if you're naked while you watch! :yumyum :biggrin
 
#36 ·
How do you learn? Like everyone else here has.. You dont go and pay 100$ an hour to go watch them, you just do it, if you make mistakes, well thats how you learn it. Bleeding new fluid into a system thats already hydraulically full isnt hard, its when you get air in the master and air all throughout the lines that you need to think a little. All you should have to do is put a tube on the bleeder nipple, squeeze the brake lever lightly and open the bleeder, keep a small pressure on the brake lever as it goes down and after its down, close the bleeder and do it all again untill you get clear fluid through the end of your little tube and into your catch pan. That and make sure the res. never goes dry and you'll never have an issue.. Dont let up on the lever if the bleeder is open.
 
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