I haven't really messed with my suspension yet but I was wondering if anyone has some recommendations for a 140 lb. agressive street rider. The bike over all seems to be on the moderatly soft setting in both the front and back.

Experiment - go plus 3 clicks front and rear on compression and see what that gets you. If it's too hard, back it off one click where it's harder. Every tuner will tell you differently how they go about getting the bike dialed in, so my advice may not be what you want to hear. I always like to go big so as to overshoot the feeling I want to get from the bike and back it down from there.

Your mileage may vary.

the 06 suspebtion does not click so you have to eye ball it. I turned in a very little in com. and re. worked out

NOTE: This is only for stock suspension. Rider weight from 130-155lbs.


compresion = faster = Softer
For the rear (stock) set both compressions adjustments all the way to soft. The rebound all the way to hard. since the rear spring is WAY to stiff for 140lbs. this will allow it to compress a little more quickly because you aren't using the valving to slow the spring down when you crack the gas on.
rebound = slower = "Harder"
Trying to slow the spring on rebound so you get less wheel hop, tire spin and chatter. This will allow the valving to go to work and make the shock come back slower so it won't just snap back into neutral position.

Remember the rear spring is weighted for 2 riders on the bike. figure about 270 - 300lbs.

Forks are actually pretty good for stock, for the street.
This is pretty general. You can't set up you're suspension correctly without re-springing both front and rear. Forget about the sag part unless your going to be buying a rear shock (for you're weight) and re-springing the forks.

hope it helps you :D

Fork Tuning



PRELOAD

This adjustment is always found on the top of the forks. Clockwise increases preload, counter clockwise decreases it. The adjusters are usually integrated into the fork cap and are sometimes differentiated by color. The preload adjuster may have adjustment lines machined into it so that you can compare to check that they are even.

Preload is initially used when setting SAG. Preload can be added if the rider experiences the forks “diving” under hard braking. A more accurate way of assessing “dive” is to attach a thin zip tie on the slider tube (make sure that it slides easily but is not sloppy), or place an appropriately sized rubber “o” ring on the tube that slides into the fork leg (using an O- ring will require one fork being removed).
The zip tie/O-ring will allow you to see how much of the fork travel you are using. If the zip tie/O-ring is firmly against the dust scraper or on an inverted fork, the axle casting, then the fork is bottoming out. In that case you need to add more preload, and then check the zip tie/O-ring again. If the zip tie/O-ring rests 5mm prior to the dust scraper or axle casting, this indicates that you are using almost all of the available travel.





REBOUND

The rebound adjuster is usually located in the center of the preload adjuster, and commonly requires a flat head screwdriver to be used for making adjustments (there are exceptions like Ohlins which require Allen wrenches). Sometimes the adjustments are measured in “clicks”, other times in degrees of turn. Usually OEM settings are in the middle of adjustment.
First, turn the rebound adjusters all the way in on both forks and write down how many turns/clicks there were. Then take the rebound adjustment all the way out on both forks so that you know how much total adjustment there is. With the adjustment all the way out, hold the front brake on to lock the wheel and then push down vigorously on the forks. As the forks begin their upstroke, let them move naturally and observe the action of the fork. The stroke may come back and then return into the downward motion once more, and may even return again on the upstroke (do not let go of the front brake while doing this!).

Then adjust the rebound all the way in on both forks, repeat the pumping action with the front brake fully engaged and observe the difference in the range of motion –the forks will rise back up slowly. What you are trying to achieve is the fork rising back almost to the top of the first rebound stroke and staying there. You will need to work the adjusters so that they are always the same on both legs until you have the rebound action set correctly.


COMPRESSION

These adjusters are usually found on the underside of the fork or close to the brake calipers at the bottom of the fork facing the rider. They commonly require a flat head screwdriver to be used for making adjustments (there are exceptions like Ohlins which require Allen wrenches). Sometimes the adjustments are measured in “clicks”, other times in degrees of turn. Usually OEM settings are in the middle of adjustment.
First, turn the compression adjusters all the way in on both forks and write down how many turns/clicks there were. Then take the compression adjustment all the way out on both forks so that you know how much total adjustment there is. With the adjustment all the way out, hold the front brake on to lock the wheel and then push down vigorously on the forks. You will be able to feel the way in which the forks move through the downward/compression stroke, which will be fairly easily (do not let go of the front brake while doing this!!).

Then adjust the compression all the way in on both forks, repeat the pumping action with the front brake fully engaged and observe/feel the difference in the range of motion –the forks will compress more quickly and will not travel as far on the compression stroke up. What you are trying to achieve is the compression stroke allowing the fork to move without restricting the amount of travel in the fork, which causes the sensation of “packing.” You will need to work the adjusters so that they are always the same on both legs until you have the compression action set correctly.

a couple of questions Cestode, please: On the rear you say "set both compressions adjs all the way out". I only see one dial for compression. Is there another i'm not seeing?
And the rebound all the way hard. I can't find anything for the rebound. Where is that dial for the rebound (rear)?

Sorry i'm a noob and I have a track day coming up (first one). I wanna test out a couple sus. adjustments before I go.

I'm 150 (w/ gear).. Bike feels so much better when i'm carrying a passenger.

Thanks

I wasn't looking hard enough, found it. I'm gonna go test out your settings.. cheers!

Well with the rear comp. all the way soft and the rear rebound all the way hard I can def feel the rear end a lot more, as if i had a passenger almost. it feels like an extention of my ass if that makes any sense. i wasn't really able to push it, for a couple reasons and i do not know if i like it yet. why do you say don't worry about the sag also when i've heard thats pretty important.. ??

i set my sag after doing the forks down a little. then set changed everything from scratch, turned everything in and bounced it, felt it and made changes depending on how it felt. took it for a ride and made more changes, drastic changes so you get the feel of how to the both extremes feel so you dont think heck yeah this feels good, when you dont know what the other extreme feels like, bc you could very well like that setting better.


i think cestode, had a post a while ago with picts and showing how everything worked and it was a good knowledgable read.