Guy's do you know how much hp you can gain from useing race gas vs pump- gas, some people say it's all in your motor, and some people say you will not gain anything and it's a waste of money, what do you guy's think !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you dont have a high compression engine,you do not need(hi-octane) race gas.It will actually make less power.You only want enuff octane to eliminate knocking.

On the flip side,using VP's U4,MR9,MR0X1 & other oxygenated race fuels give you anywhere from 5-7% more HP then pump gas.But now were talking $10&up per gallon.And once you crack open the seal on a 5 gallon drum,it goes back to pump gas within a few days.

mr 9 around 5 or so horse on the on the dyno. i know ryan schnitz has done alot of fuel tests so contact him.

What do you guy's think about a motor having 12.8.1 compression, would you use race gas or not !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I ran mr-9 all last season.II had very good results even without dyno tuning.I made 3 passes on pump
gas then drained the tank and made 3 passes with mr-9.I picked up .15 and 3mph average over all
of the runs.My fuel seemed to be ok for 30 days if kept in a cool place in the original can.As for 12.8 compression it reall matters what the size and timing of you cams are.I have just built a gsxr
1000 with around 13.0 compression and the builder says it will rum on premium no sweat.II think u4
is your best bet.Hope this helps.

Whayt octane rating race gas will be safe guy's to use, let me know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Whayt octane rating race gas will be safe guy's to use, let me know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



What's the cranking-pressure of the motor? Are you spraying nitrous? If you are, do you have the ability to pull some ingition-advance out with the nitrous?

The "catch all" answer is that the lowest octane that does not cause detonation is the best to use. I run 92 octane pump-gas in my 12:1 motor when I'm not spraying it. The cranking-pressure is only about 185psi so it really doesn't need anything more than pump-gas. You could advance the ignition on a stock motor though, and if you had it advanced too much, you could get detonation even with the $10/gallon stuff if it's far enough off.

Using a fuel with a higher-octane rating than required for your combination *is* just a waste of money. But nobody can look at a post on a message-board and give you a 100% sure-fire minimum-octane requirement.

You're asking lots of questions, and it never hurts to gain knowledge - but there's a point where you hafta take the info that you have and do some actual testing to see what works and what doesn't work for you and your particular engine/bike setup.

Try the pump-gas premium first, and if it detonates then you'll know you need more octane. You may be pleasantly surprised to find that you don't need more than 92 octane.

Kinda of a side question to all this but a quick question as I've never run race fuel before.

If you used race fuel, such as MR9, do you need to re-map the fuel curve to compensate for the different fuel, or is using your normal map going to work?? In other words running a normal map with race fuel (oxygenated fuel) isn't going to cause the motor to run too lean??

Hey fast cat, i will probly just run the 93 pump gas in my bike, that race gas is just to F*CKING HIGH, and it probly just a waste of money !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kinda of a side question to all this but a quick question as I've never run race fuel before.

If you used race fuel, such as MR9, do you need to re-map the fuel curve to compensate for the different fuel, or is using your normal map going to work?? In other words running a normal map with race fuel (oxygenated fuel) isn't going to cause the motor to run too lean??



To get the most out of it, you should remap. Without a remap people are seeing minimal gains and thus the fuel becomes a waste of money. But yes you can run race fuel on a stock map.

Yupyup -what Rockin C said. You should also experiment/change your ignition-advance curve to work with whichever fuel you are running - really minor changes but necessary if you're chasing down every last 0.1hp on a race motor.

Hey fast cat, i have the advancer on the dyna 2000 set at 5 degrees advance, still tryin to figure out why i can't set this rpm rev limiter on this thing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

race fuel works good on motors with lots of timing, N2o, or high compression, if your not detonating with your current fuel your not gonna see any gains.

on my 1216 i run VP C12, but it has a lot of timing and 220lb cranking compression

Hey fast cat, i have the advancer on the dyna 2000 set at 5 degrees advance, still tryin to figure out why i can't set this rpm rev limiter on this thing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



You're running 5 degrees static-timing? That's a mistake. You should be in the 35-40 degree range for static timing on the crank-trigger.

Hey fast cat, what difference would i see if i went to 35-40 degree vs 5 degree static timing, let me know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me know FAST CAT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me know FAST CAT, THANKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Um, I'd be surprised if you can get it to run and accelerate at all with the tatic timing at only 5' btdc. 35-40 is where you'll want to start, and if you wanna optimize it, get it on a dyno and you can determine what static-timing gives you the power-curve that you want.

Hey Fast Cat, i am going to have the bike tuned anyways, i might have to talk to my tuner about bumping up the timing when i take it to the Dyno soon man, any more info on that Fast Cat about timing, let me know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me know, thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Chill out dude.

It's a message-board, not a chat-room! http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

If I remember correctly, The instructions that come with the Dyna2000 suggest 40-degrees BTDC as a starting-point for the gixxer motors. I'm running a little less than that on my oil-cooled motor. Like I said the first time - somewhere between 35-40 degrees BTDC should be about right.