You guys have a bunch of good questions on this forum, but they are spread out. I thought we could put together a thread to consolidate them all.

We are a professional race shop/engine shop that specializes in GSXR motors. We build race motors for Roadracing, dragracing, flat track, street, and SCCA D/C Sportsracers. We also run a 2 rider Pro AMA Roadrace team.

So...if you have any engine building questions what so ever, post them here and I will try to answer them.

Are you covering turbo's and Nos here also?

Sure...to some extent. We specialize in all motor set-ups but we build motors, heads, and install NOS and turbo systems for some of the fastest bikes in the country.

If there is something I do not know the answer to, I will find it or point you in the direction of somebody who can answer it.

You dont happen to know where i could locate info on a toyota ct12-c turbo?
I have one, very tiny good for 1 - 1.5 liter engine 150-200hp
would this be sufficient for an older 1074 engine at low psi 3-6 or less.. Very fast spooling water and oil cooled.

Barry @ Veolcity raceing would be the man to ask about specfic turbos. We use his kits exclusively.

As for the motor itself......

Okay, Chip. I'm game.

So I have a '02 600 with 9500 miles. Full Yosh exhaust and PC3. My bike sees the street only (considering getting a 2nd bike for the track). If I was going to throw $1,000 at the motor for parts/labor, what is my best investment? Kind of a generic question, but threw it out there anyway.

I was wondering if the 750 head and the 1000 head were identical. Also have you ever heard of a stroker 750 and what kind of hp it might put out.

This winter im dropin my motor out of my K3. I am going to keep the stock head gasket, polish up the head some and port match where the TB's are against the head. I can look down past the TB's and see where the head is smaller. Also, im going to put the 750 valve springs in also. For now would it be ok to put the 750 intake cam on the exhaust side for now until I get the Web cam and adjustable sprokets on there? Or should I wait and do it all at one time? What kind of gains would just the 750 cam get me?
On the head, I was going to match the intake ports, polish them up, polish the bowls and there the valves are and the exhaust. How much is that worth?

Im thinking of just going web cam on the intake, 750 cam on the exhuast, adjustable cam sprockets, stock head gasket, 750 springs and minor stuff to the head then the manual cam ten.

Whatchu think? http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

On the head, I was going to match the intake ports, polish them up, polish the bowls and there the valves are and the exhaust. How much is that worth?


If you do it yourself,it may very well make alot less then stock

On the head, I was going to match the intake ports, polish them up, polish the bowls and there the valves are and the exhaust. How much is that worth?


If you do it yourself,it may very well make alot less then stock


+1.
Polishing does nothing. You don't want a shiny or even extremely smooth finish.
The 750 intake cam on the exhaust side will need an adjustable sprocket fitting.

What if I just matched it up where the TB's sit on the head?

matching the tb boot to the head will do almost nothing...you need to do some work in both the intake and exhaust port to power...second that on the polish thing, that's a no no!!!

as for the valve spring question, you could put 750 springs in it but i would recommend a good aftermarket spring instead...they are available for about $80-$100 a set or about $350-$400 with titanium retainers...i would also tell you to save and invest in a good exhaust cam...web has some very good stuff now and works alot better than that intake cam on the exhaust side...

i'm sure chip will chime in here and set all of us straight..

dwayne

Gsxr1000k1 - k3 -k5.

What is the max hp you can get from these with stock bore & stroke.

No NOS or turbo.

Sorry for the delay guys.......Here are some of your answers:

1.) 02 600 and $1K - You are really in a middle ground area with motorwork. Anything for $1K after what you already have done will be minor gains (assuming the bike is mapped right). For a $1K You could do Web Cams/Cam Sprockets and see a gain on top, but a loss in the middle. You could port the head and use a Yosh thin Head gasket and see a little there, but you would really need to do the cams as well and doing both goes over your budget. For any real gains significant would need to do a piston kit and all the other stuff discussed and then you are talking in the $3-$4K range. A full head build with cams would cost you a little over $1600 and would 6 - 10hp more

2.) 00-03 750 and 01-02 1K heads are the same, all others are different. Stroker 750? Oh hell yeah. We have a 3mm crank in stock, combined with our 3mm pistons makes it a 866cc and you could expect around 165hp.....nasty....straight nasty! Still very streetable as well.

3.) 03 1K - You can use 750 intake cam on the exhaust side as see around 3hp but cam sprockets are required and timing is critical. 750 valve springs are not required.....your not increasing the lift enough. As for you porting the head......good luck.....I can't comment on that other than be careful, it is real easy to screw it up and loose power. Web intake and OEM 750 exhaust.......seriously.....do yourself a favor and put a complete set of Web Cams in if you are going to spend almost the same money and do exactly the same amount of work...

4.) Max power with stock bore and stroke? Not really a fair question because the only really high end stock bore and stroke motors we do have to conform to AMA Superbike rules and they are pretty restrictive.....nobody has ever asked about a stock bore and stroke with every thing we know to do....Our AMA Superbike motors make:

03-04 GSXR1000 = 185hp or so
05-06 GSXR1000 = 195hp or so.

Did I miss anything?

Chip,

I have an 01 1000 (stock internals) and was thinking of just stroking the crank 4mm and not doing any boring.

What kind of hp/torque gains could be had and is it worth it?

Would I need aftermarket rods?

thanks

2.) 00-03 750 and 01-02 1K heads are the same, all others are different.



When you say same, are the motor mount hole locations the same too?

Chip,

I have an 01 1000 (stock internals) and was thinking of just stroking the crank 4mm and not doing any boring.

What kind of hp/torque gains could be had and is it worth it?

Would I need aftermarket rods?

thanks



I would consider doing the opposite....boring with no stroke, if you only wanted to go in on direction.

If you are going to stroke it, you have to spend the same money as if you were to bore and stroke it. Pistons have to be replaced and depending on the stroke, so does block machining. There are several disadvantages to stroking that have to be compinsated for, like side loading, frictional loss, and Piston speed. If you stroke it would deffinately have to use aftermarket rods and pistons......why not use bigger pistons?

I would suggest and 1143cc combo.....3mm bore, 4mm stroke....and around 205hp and 110ft-lbs of Torque........MotoGp power for the street...

What's the life like on bored 1000's? I've seen issues with big bore stuff over here, especially busa's suffering blow-by and gasket leakage. It could be poor machining and plating causing some of it.
Some of the aftermarket rings aren't a patch on the oem stuff too.
I'd like to make a good contact for reliable parts at cheaper than "rip-off britain" prices. Valves, springs, cranks, pistons are some of the things that are hard to find with testing mileage already done. I'm sick of being everyone's parts development donkey!!

Chip,

I have an 01 1000 (stock internals) and was thinking of just stroking the crank 4mm and not doing any boring.

What kind of hp/torque gains could be had and is it worth it?

Would I need aftermarket rods?

thanks



I would consider doing the opposite....boring with no stroke, if you only wanted to go in on direction.

If you are going to stroke it, you have to spend the same money as if you were to bore and stroke it. Pistons have to be replaced and depending on the stroke, so does block machining. There are several disadvantages to stroking that have to be compinsated for, like side loading, frictional loss, and Piston speed. If you stroke it would deffinately have to use aftermarket rods and pistons......why not use bigger pistons?

I would suggest and 1143cc combo.....3mm bore, 4mm stroke....and around 205hp and 110ft-lbs of Torque........MotoGp power for the street...

The cost factor plays a big role too. I'd rather just turbo it than the bore/stroke idea which costs ..what 1.5-2X the amount.

Chip,

I have an 01 1000 (stock internals) and was thinking of just stroking the crank 4mm and not doing any boring.

What kind of hp/torque gains could be had and is it worth it?

Would I need aftermarket rods?

thanks



I would consider doing the opposite....boring with no stroke, if you only wanted to go in on direction.

If you are going to stroke it, you have to spend the same money as if you were to bore and stroke it. Pistons have to be replaced and depending on the stroke, so does block machining. There are several disadvantages to stroking that have to be compinsated for, like side loading, frictional loss, and Piston speed. If you stroke it would deffinately have to use aftermarket rods and pistons......why not use bigger pistons?

I would suggest and 1143cc combo.....3mm bore, 4mm stroke....and around 205hp and 110ft-lbs of Torque........MotoGp power for the street...

The cost factor plays a big role too. I'd rather just turbo it than the bore/stroke idea which costs ..what 1.5-2X the amount.



That is a huge misconception.......that Turbos are cost less alternitive to building the engine. It's just not true. In order to have a turbo motor that is going to make any significant horsepower gain over stock and be expected to last any amount of time you would have to build the motor to take the added strain of the turbo.....plus the cost of the turbo.......You will spend more money in the end.

Chip,

I have an 01 1000 (stock internals) and was thinking of just stroking the crank 4mm and not doing any boring.

What kind of hp/torque gains could be had and is it worth it?

Would I need aftermarket rods?

thanks



I would consider doing the opposite....boring with no stroke, if you only wanted to go in on direction.

If you are going to stroke it, you have to spend the same money as if you were to bore and stroke it. Pistons have to be replaced and depending on the stroke, so does block machining. There are several disadvantages to stroking that have to be compinsated for, like side loading, frictional loss, and Piston speed. If you stroke it would deffinately have to use aftermarket rods and pistons......why not use bigger pistons?

I would suggest and 1143cc combo.....3mm bore, 4mm stroke....and around 205hp and 110ft-lbs of Torque........MotoGp power for the street...

The cost factor plays a big role too. I'd rather just turbo it than the bore/stroke idea which costs ..what 1.5-2X the amount.



That is a huge misconception.......that Turbos are cost less alternitive to building the engine. It's just not true. In order to have a turbo motor that is going to make any significant horsepower gain over stock and be expected to last any amount of time you would have to build the motor to take the added strain of the turbo.....plus the cost of the turbo.......You will spend more money in the end.


+1
You need a solid foundation to build a reliable turbo bike.
Chip,you going to the Pro-Star season opener in Georgia this March??

I HAVE AN 05 1000 I PUT ON A SLIP ON AND MY F1 LIGHT CAME ON IS THIS NORMAL AND IF SO IS THERE ANY WAY TO GET IT OFF SINCE NOW IM NOT GOING TO KNOW WHEN I HAVE A REAL PROMBLEM?

I HAVE AN 05 1000 I PUT ON A SLIP ON AND MY F1 LIGHT CAME ON IS THIS NORMAL AND IF SO IS THERE ANY WAY TO GET IT OFF SINCE NOW IM NOT GOING TO KNOW WHEN I HAVE A REAL PROMBLEM?



If I had to guess, I would say the FI light is on beacuse you moved the cables on the exhaust valve......Run the codes and see what it comes up with.

Chip,

I have an 01 1000 (stock internals) and was thinking of just stroking the crank 4mm and not doing any boring.

What kind of hp/torque gains could be had and is it worth it?

Would I need aftermarket rods?

thanks



I would consider doing the opposite....boring with no stroke, if you only wanted to go in on direction.

If you are going to stroke it, you have to spend the same money as if you were to bore and stroke it. Pistons have to be replaced and depending on the stroke, so does block machining. There are several disadvantages to stroking that have to be compinsated for, like side loading, frictional loss, and Piston speed. If you stroke it would deffinately have to use aftermarket rods and pistons......why not use bigger pistons?

I would suggest and 1143cc combo.....3mm bore, 4mm stroke....and around 205hp and 110ft-lbs of Torque........MotoGp power for the street...

The cost factor plays a big role too. I'd rather just turbo it than the bore/stroke idea which costs ..what 1.5-2X the amount.



That is a huge misconception.......that Turbos are cost less alternitive to building the engine. It's just not true. In order to have a turbo motor that is going to make any significant horsepower gain over stock and be expected to last any amount of time you would have to build the motor to take the added strain of the turbo.....plus the cost of the turbo.......You will spend more money in the end.


+1
You need a solid foundation to build a reliable turbo bike.
Chip,you going to the Pro-Star season opener in Georgia this March??



Doubt it.....I'll be in Daytona for 10 days doing AMA roadracing stuff......so my "at race track" time will be limited in March.

[QUOTE]


If you are going to stroke it, you have to spend the same money as if you were to bore and stroke it. Pistons have to be replaced and depending on the stroke, so does block machining. There are several disadvantages to stroking that have to be compinsated for, like side loading, frictional loss, and Piston speed. If you stroke it would deffinately have to use aftermarket rods and pistons......why not use bigger pistons?

I would suggest and 1143cc combo.....3mm bore, 4mm stroke....and around 205hp and 110ft-lbs of Torque........MotoGp power for the street...



How much are we talking with parts and labor?
How much are just the parts alone?

Russ,your talking about an easy $8,500-$10,000

[QUOTE]


If you are going to stroke it, you have to spend the same money as if you were to bore and stroke it. Pistons have to be replaced and depending on the stroke, so does block machining. There are several disadvantages to stroking that have to be compinsated for, like side loading, frictional loss, and Piston speed. If you stroke it would deffinately have to use aftermarket rods and pistons......why not use bigger pistons?

I would suggest and 1143cc combo.....3mm bore, 4mm stroke....and around 205hp and 110ft-lbs of Torque........MotoGp power for the street...



How much are we talking with parts and labor?
How much are just the parts alone?



It all depends on what you already have done on the bike, if there is anything already wore out in the motor, how much power you want, how long you want it to last........

$8500 for full on 1143cc 205+ motor is a pretty good number....parts and labor....

For $10.5K we could go all the way to a 1204cc 220hp MONSTER!

If you are looking to do something cheaper there are alternitives....3mm over bores...SS Builds...etc....for as cheap as $2200.

If your really intrested give me a call after Christmas and I can go over all the details. I really would rather this thread be a question and answer thread.....not a sales pitch!

Are high compression pistons stock bore and stroke a good way to go. With cams and head work or just a waste of time? That SS package sounds good. I got a engine I'm tryin to get built for dragracing.

might be a dumb question but do they make a big bore kit for the 05 600's and if they do what cc does it take it too.

i read your 04/05 600 motor kinda answered my own question. can you go bigger than that and how much does a kit like that cost with labor

Are high compression pistons stock bore and stroke a good way to go. With cams and head work or just a waste of time? That SS package sounds good. I got a engine I'm tryin to get built for dragracing.



SS package would make more hp.....than stock, but there are some other things you would want to do for drag racing.

If you are going to do after market pistons, I would suggest a going 3mm bigger.......almost the same price, but much more hp...

i read your 04/05 600 motor kinda answered my own question. can you go bigger than that and how much does a kit like that cost with labor




If you wanted a big bore 600 motor.....then that motor for sale is going to be the best, cheapest alternitive......and no wait.....you send us your good motor, we ship you this one, pop it in and go kick everybodys ass. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

If you want to go super big.....we are developing a package right now for a customers top speed bike that is HUGE........give me a call over the Holidays and I can give you the details......but I can tell you right now. It is not cheap.

2.) 00-03 750 and 01-02 1K heads are the same, all others are different. Stroker 750? Oh hell yeah. We have a 3mm crank in stock, combined with our 3mm pistons makes it a 866cc and you could expect around 165hp.....nasty....straight nasty! Still very streetable as well.

how much would a stroker 750 setup cost after its all said and done? and what other work is there involved other than the bore and stroke?

So when install web cams on my K3. I read to keep the stock head gasket so keep good clearence. Is that wise or do the taking the middle leaf out? I mean, bumping the compression .5 really worth anything?

Going on past experience, don't remove the leaf. I've seen too many leak doing this.
Its not the compression upping that will make the gains, its the tightening of the squish in this case.
Removing the centre leaf will make the head gasket 0.05mm thinner than a yoshi head gasket so you are more likely to have clearance issues this way as well as possible leakage.
You won't have clearance issue with these cams unless you are going past 20thou" off the head anyway so don't worry about it.

Thanks Tim. Just confirms that I will leave the stock one on. So its safe to re-use the headgasket? I know on cars thats a no no.

Where would I get shims from? What sizes?

2.) 00-03 750 and 01-02 1K heads are the same, all others are different. Stroker 750? Oh hell yeah. We have a 3mm crank in stock, combined with our 3mm pistons makes it a 866cc and you could expect around 165hp.....nasty....straight nasty! Still very streetable as well.

how much would a stroker 750 setup cost after its all said and done? and what other work is there involved other than the bore and stroke?



Like I said.....I don't want this thread to turn into a sales pitch thread.....Give me a call after the first of the year and I would be happy to quote you some prices. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

843-552-7177

Thanks Tim. Just confirms that I will leave the stock one on. So its safe to re-use the headgasket? I know on cars thats a no no.

Where would I get shims from? What sizes?



No re-use on the head gasket.......very bad!

Shims would be stock Suzuki shims......as for after market cams.....I would only use Yosh Stage one cams with stock pistons. Otherwise you will run into interferance problems.

First I have to say that it is really awsome when professional engine builders like Tim and Chip offer
their help like this.And I hope you guys know how much guys like me appriciate it.I am just installing
A set of 05 cams in a 03 1000 and am wondering about cam #,s for drag racing.

First I have to say that it is really awsome when professional engine builders like Tim and Chip offer
their help like this.And I hope you guys know how much guys like me appriciate it.I am just installing
A set of 05 cams in a 03 1000 and am wondering about cam #,s for drag racing.





Is everything else stock?

Sure...to some extent. We specialize in all motor set-ups but we build motors, heads, and install NOS and turbo systems for some of the fastest bikes in the country.

If there is something I do not know the answer to, I will find it or point you in the direction of somebody who can answer it.



Chip,

Have an 05 1k with a 30shot ( Dry- N20 )
What is a safe A/F ratio to run? Activated at WOT,and
Installing an MSD window switch...... ON at 7500k OFF at 12,250....
...anything else i should do to run safe and reliable?

PS TRE yes or no ?

Merry X mas and Thanks
Rick

Thanks Tim. Just confirms that I will leave the stock one on. So its safe to re-use the headgasket? I know on cars thats a no no.

Where would I get shims from? What sizes?



No re-use on the head gasket.......very bad!

Shims would be stock Suzuki shims......as for after market cams.....I would only use Yosh Stage one cams with stock pistons. Otherwise you will run into interferance problems.



Chip, I was going to run the Web cams.

Ahh christmas, someone passed me a beer a few days back i think ...... what happened .....
No, never re-use a head gasket.
Shims will depend on the base circle of your cams. If they are reprofiled then you will need bigger shims. If they are hard welded and reprofiled then they could be near stock. If they are billet cams then usually they have close to stock base circle.

I was considering putting NOS on my 2001 GSXR 600. Its got about 4300 miles on it right now and my buddy gave me a NOS kit caused he owned me money. I wasnt sure how good this kit would be on a motorcycle since it is designed for carbed cars. If this would work good what size jet should I select. Any feedback would be great.


Sneaky Pete's NOS Kit (http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=05029NOS)

No it isn,t all stock.It has a Hindle stepped header,pair mod,short stacks,k&n,air shifter,pwr. commander,Lengthened 6" over,tre,mr9 fuel,and some times a 40 shot of nos but I will be running it on the engine after the engine mods.The head will be ported and polished ,serdi valve job.750 springs,and shaved 10,also will be assembled with a yosh head gasket.All work is being done by a local engine builder Chuck Downey.He builds blackfoot motor sports bikes here in Canada for the Canadian superbike series.This is wher I am getting the 05 cams to try.Any info to help my setup for dragracing would be greatly appriciated.Thanks.

quick question, are the 2001-2003 600 front engine mounting points the same as the 2000-2003 750? I supposedly have a 750 frame, according to the VIN, but my engine is a 600.

can anyone tell me where i could find a turbo for a 2005 600? i just bought it and about to put some time and money in it and first want to add the turbo. where could i get one?

Nxt Level Racing
RCC Turbos

Questions for determining turbo size...

How much power do you want to make?
How many PSI of boost?
What engine mods do you have?
Are you willing to change your bottom end to support a high power turbo?

You cant just pick a turbo for a bike, you need to know what you want the bike to produce before you can go shopping...

Just a stock 600, with say a base gasket and thick head gasket, will support approx. 15 psi with an upgraded fuel system... I have used a TC-05S-07A and seen some pretty good results from a 750..... or some of the newer garrett GT-22 or GT-25 turbos....

Anybody know if a k5 head will fit my k3 ???

Sorry for the delay, I was on Vacation for X-mas.....

Here are some of your answers:

GSXRdan - 05 Cams in a 03....To be honest it is not something we have tried. Physicly they will bolt up, but be very careful with valve to piston clearance as the 05 cams are a taller lift. Personally, with the work you already have done or are planning to do, I would use a set of Web or Yosh cams..... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Black051k - As a general rule of thumb....12.5 to 1 for NOS.....you want it on the rich side, but every motor is different.....I would run it on a Dyno with NOS for final tuning.

Gumby - The smaller the better......Bigger will make more power but will also fry pistons and bend rods if you mess up. There are way to many varibles for me to recomend a jet size for you application without the bike being here on our Dyno. Be Careful!!!

GSXR45 - A 05 head will physically bolt up but will not work with stock pistons. The Cams, valves and Combustion chambers are different. You would be much better off modifiing your 03 head.

These are all good questions.....keep em coming!!!!!!!!! http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Hi Chip , hope you had a good christmas . thanks for this forum you guys are the best , i was talking about cam timing a while back but was'nt clear about what was what . so here goes , have a k3 1000 ti force high mount (no valve ) large s pipe , i think from a ti force header , i have stock head pipes , factory pro tre , factory pro stacks , k&n filter , looking to put some ajustable sprockets on the stock cams , looking for more mid range 5 k - 9 k with peak power around 10 k with some over run maybe to 12 k / i,m going to teka and dyno tune before putting in the sprockets after a valve adj. maybe insall some 750 springs ???good idea ??? motor has 28000 kmh on it . can you suggest some numbers please / also do you know how inaccurate the stock tack is ???? as i have run my motor up to 135000 in 3rd gear without any hitting of the rev limiter , which makes me think that it was only at around 122000 or so , any feed back ?? the honda went bye bye he he he love my bike and guys are fantastic , keep up the great work and thanks Darrin

you wouldn't happen to know where i could find a turbo for a '05 600 would you?

will a full exhaust from a 02+1000 bolt up to a 05 600

Hi Chip , hope you had a good christmas . thanks for this forum you guys are the best , i was talking about cam timing a while back but was'nt clear about what was what . so here goes , have a k3 1000 ti force high mount (no valve ) large s pipe , i think from a ti force header , i have stock head pipes , factory pro tre , factory pro stacks , k&n filter , looking to put some ajustable sprockets on the stock cams , looking for more mid range 5 k - 9 k with peak power around 10 k with some over run maybe to 12 k / i,m going to teka and dyno tune before putting in the sprockets after a valve adj. maybe insall some 750 springs ???good idea ??? motor has 28000 kmh on it . can you suggest some numbers please / also do you know how inaccurate the stock tack is ???? as i have run my motor up to 135000 in 3rd gear without any hitting of the rev limiter , which makes me think that it was only at around 122000 or so , any feed back ?? the honda went bye bye he he he love my bike and guys are fantastic , keep up the great work and thanks Darrin





/ also do you know how inaccurate the stock tack is ???? as i have run my motor up to 135000 in 3rd gear without any hitting of the rev limiter , which makes me think that it was only at around 122000 or so , any feed back ??


TRE and or sprocket change.

Yes, they are nearly all off on all models. Usually about 1000rpm at peak revs. Can't see why they bother

Thanks for the good feedback , heard of it on other brands , so i'll be shifting at 13500 for max output . i,ll confirm it when dyno tuning in the spring , lots of changes this year so stay TUNED for details thanks again .

you wouldn't happen to know where i could find a turbo for a '05 600 would you?



Velocity Racing...... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

will a full exhaust from a 02+1000 bolt up to a 05 600



I don't think so......don't know why you would want to......but some people on the 04/05 forum say they have done it. I have a 3 stock 01-04 systems and 3 05/06 stock systems sitting around that I would be willing to get rid of cheap.

Thanks for the good feedback , heard of it on other brands , so i'll be shifting at 13500 for max output . i,ll confirm it when dyno tuning in the spring , lots of changes this year so stay TUNED for details thanks again .



Like Tim said, they are all off.......some more than others......check it on the Dyno.... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Hi Chip,
I was wondering if the 813cc piston kit you offer for 750s can be installed into a stock block with just boring or does it require sleeving.

Chip,

I was wondering how easy is it to get a 98-99 gsxr 750 set of cylinder?

Hi Chip,
I was wondering if the 813cc piston kit you offer for 750s can be installed into a stock block with just boring or does it require sleeving.



Yes, an 813cc is extremely easy with a stock block.....we do it all the time.

We actually have a complete 813 motor here in the shop ready to go if you are intersted.

Chip,

I was wondering how easy is it to get a 98-99 gsxr 750 set of cylinder?



Real easy......I have a set 12ft from right now......2mm over bore. $1095 for the Block, Pistons, and Gasket.

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/punk.gif

Chip,

Is the Accellerator pump feature on PCIIIusb
worth usung on a 05-06 1k or any bike with 4 extra injectors ?

If i am installing velocity stack on my k5 can the slides/ secondary throttling blades be taken out? Will this make any difference at all? Thanks

Really, what was done to it and how much would it put out? Also price?


Hi Chip,
I was wondering if the 813cc piston kit you offer for 750s can be installed into a stock block with just boring or does it require sleeving.



Yes, an 813cc is extremely easy with a stock block.....we do it all the time.

We actually have a complete 813 motor here in the shop ready to go if you are intersted.

i was wondering because the turbo manifolds are the same and i can get a full arata ehaust for dirt cheap from a buddy of mine.( " Made from our very own Custom TBR Exhaust flange, T2 inlet flange and 1.5 inch 304 stainless steel tubing. Designed to work GSXR 600 01-05, 750 01-05, 1000 01-06" ) straight from http://www.turbobikeresearch.com

Chip,

Is the Accellerator pump feature on PCIIIusb
worth usung on a 05-06 1k or any bike with 4 extra injectors ?



THe accelerator pump function would have very little effect unless you were tuned on the raged edge of lean for more power.

It has nothing to do with the secondary set of injectors.

If i am installing velocity stack on my k5 can the slides/ secondary throttling blades be taken out? Will this make any difference at all? Thanks



I would not mess with the secondarys unless this is for a full on drag/top speed motor. The secondarys have a big effect on drivablity.

Really, what was done to it and how much would it put out? Also price?


Hi Chip,
I was wondering if the 813cc piston kit you offer for 750s can be installed into a stock block with just boring or does it require sleeving.



Yes, an 813cc is extremely easy with a stock block.....we do it all the time.

We actually have a complete 813 motor here in the shop ready to go if you are intersted.





Give me a call...... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

i was wondering because the turbo manifolds are the same and i can get a full arata ehaust for dirt cheap from a buddy of mine.( " Made from our very own Custom TBR Exhaust flange, T2 inlet flange and 1.5 inch 304 stainless steel tubing. Designed to work GSXR 600 01-05, 750 01-05, 1000 01-06" ) straight from http://www.turbobikeresearch.com



Huh? http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif What does that mean?

Chip,

At what RPM do the secondary injectors on an 05-06 1k ,
get to work? Do they open when the primaries reach their max flow rate?
or work in conjunction. (share the load ) Could you explain ?


Thanks, Rick

i was wondering because the turbo manifolds are the same and i can get a full arata ehaust for dirt cheap from a buddy of mine.( " Made from our very own Custom TBR Exhaust flange, T2 inlet flange and 1.5 inch 304 stainless steel tubing. Designed to work GSXR 600 01-05, 750 01-05, 1000 01-06" ) straight from http://www.turbobikeresearch.com



Huh? http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif What does that mean?



will a full exhaust from a 02 1000 bolt up to a 05 600. i found on that site that the turbo exhaust manifolds are the same.

i was wondering because the turbo manifolds are the same and i can get a full arata ehaust for dirt cheap from a buddy of mine.( " Made from our very own Custom TBR Exhaust flange, T2 inlet flange and 1.5 inch 304 stainless steel tubing. Designed to work GSXR 600 01-05, 750 01-05, 1000 01-06" ) straight from http://www.turbobikeresearch.com



Huh? http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif What does that mean?



will a full exhaust from a 02 1000 bolt up to a 05 600. i found on that site that the turbo exhaust manifolds are the same.



and once again.....



will a full exhaust from a 02+1000 bolt up to a 05 600



I don't think so......don't know why you would want to......but some people on the 04/05 forum say they have done it. I have a 3 stock 01-04 systems and 3 05/06 stock systems sitting around that I would be willing to get rid of cheap.



Although the exhaust port spacing maybe the same, every other deminsion of the motor and chassis are different....most importantly the overall height of the motor itself is taller on the 1000.....but again, AGAIN, I have not tried it.....I am silly and try to make life easy and always put the correct exhaust systems for year, make, and model on the bikes we work on. But if you want to try it, knock yourself out......I even have an exhaust system you can have for cheap.... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Okay Chip, not to change the subject completely, but yesterday I just bought a wrecked 2003 GSXR 600 from an insurance company. I got a pretty good deal on the bike and the frame, forks and subframe are all straight. However, the problem is, as is common with a low speed crash on the left side of the bike, the stator cover was busted open. In the process, it also took a small chunk of the engine case with it, about an inch long and about a quarter of an inch deep. I was thinking I could just replace the cover and fill the missing piece with JB Weld or something like that.

Do you think it is possible to repair the engine case - or should I just replace it? Do you have a bone stock 600 engine or engine case for sale? Let me know.

Thanks,
Dan

Okay Chip, not to change the subject completely, but yesterday I just bought a wrecked 2003 GSXR 600 from an insurance company. I got a pretty good deal on the bike and the frame, forks and subframe are all straight. However, the problem is, as is common with a low speed crash on the left side of the bike, the stator cover was busted open. In the process, it also took a small chunk of the engine case with it, about an inch long and about a quarter of an inch deep. I was thinking I could just replace the cover and fill the missing piece with JB Weld or something like that.

Do you think it is possible to repair the engine case - or should I just replace it? Do you have a bone stock 600 engine or engine case for sale? Let me know.

Thanks,
Dan



As far as getting it repaired.....I would consult a professional welder who has done a set of motorcycle cases before.....he would be able to tell you the whether it can be repaired and how much it will cost.......typically, to do it right.....it is cheaper to buy a new set of cases.

DO NOT JB WELD THE CASES!!!

I do not have a stock GSXR600 case or motor sitting around.......I do have a 00-03 set of 750 cases (brand new) here at the shop.....which mught be an intresting possiblity.

Chip, since this isn't my primary bike and will mainly be used for stunting, I'd like to keep the cost down around $500 or so, hence the need to find a stock motor or cases.

I wouldn't mind the 750 option you suggested, but will I be able to retain the rest of the top end of the current motor with that 750 case?

which dry nos kit is best??? is there any difference besides name and advertising?? approx how much to install one??? 02 gsxr1000 pc3r k+n

Weisco Piston High Compression Piston Kit and Web cam (540/566) in a 2001 GSXR 1000....750 springs, yosh cotters, PC3R, Akra pipe blah blah blah,..any experience with this setup? HP expected to make?

Also, I'm replacing a rod on the cyl. that contained a piston that made love to a set of valves.
The rod bearings looked great, but I'm thinking about replacing it? Any thoughts?

Are OEM rods for a specific block/crank, only sold in sets based on the weight of each rod or are other factors involved?
Thanks
Krispy

Chip, since this isn't my primary bike and will mainly be used for stunting, I'd like to keep the cost down around $500 or so, hence the need to find a stock motor or cases.

I wouldn't mind the 750 option you suggested, but will I be able to retain the rest of the top end of the current motor with that 750 case?



The 750 head is different, but I have one of those too.....already ported.....$1200

which dry nos kit is best??? is there any difference besides name and advertising?? approx how much to install one??? 02 gsxr1000 pc3r k+n



NOS.......$495 for the kit, $300 to put it on and set it up....

Weisco Piston High Compression Piston Kit and Web cam (540/566) in a 2001 GSXR 1000....750 springs, yosh cotters, PC3R, Akra pipe blah blah blah,..any experience with this setup? HP expected to make?

Also, I'm replacing a rod on the cyl. that contained a piston that made love to a set of valves.
The rod bearings looked great, but I'm thinking about replacing it? Any thoughts?

Are OEM rods for a specific block/crank, only sold in sets based on the weight of each rod or are other factors involved?
Thanks
Krispy



1.) Lots of varibles in the HP question.......yes we have experiance in building every GSXR engine combo imaginable.

2.) Always replace all bearings and in my opinion all the rods. The rods came in different weights and only come in one wieght for the OEM replacements.....

is the k5 600 a sleeve down version of the 750

is the k5 600 a sleeve down version of the 750



Nope......different bore and stroke all together......

Chip and others,
Like others here, I just wanted to say thanks for taking to answer questions in this manner.
Regards,
krispy

Chip .... YO DUDE .... so ya know ...... like .... If I put Carillo stickers on the body ya know ... like ... how much hp is that worth http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/trout.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/trout.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/trout.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/trout.gif

Just an fyi gang ... KWS did a TON of motor/head work on mine sled ... and the bike has been known to get out of it's own way

http://www.bikepics.com/pics/pics/suzuki-hayabusa-02-bikepics-467898.jpg

http://www.bikepics.com/pics/pics/suzuki-hayabusa-02-bikepics-468029.jpg

http://www.bikepics.com/pics/pics/suzuki-hayabusa-02-bikepics-467901.jpg

Gimme a call Chip ... I need to harrass ya ....

can the 600 be bored to 750 or wud it be best to get a 750 engine?

Chip,

At what RPM do the secondary injectors on an 05-06 1k ,
get to work? Do they open when the primaries reach their max flow rate?
or work in conjunction. (share the load ) Could you explain ?


Thanks, Rick

So im getting a set of web cams (540/566). I'm going to drop the motor, pull the head to install brand new 750 valve springs, stock new headgasket and a manual chain tensioner. How so I know what shims to use? What are the best settings for these cams for my K3?

I Rob! Give me a call!

Can you bore a 600 to a 750? Nope......but you can Bore and Stroke a 600 to a 750.

Blk 1K - Sorry...I had to actually ask somebody else on that question and forgot to answer. The scondaries come on at around 8K and do most the fueling in the upper RPM scale.

Russ - Each head, valves, cams combo is different and I would not be able to recomend a spcefic shim with the head here. Sorry.....The only thing I can tell you is that if deffinately should fall with in the stock Suzuki shim range.

I have a Gixxer 1000 05 and i have noticed that is runs a litte warm. any comments or have you heard any complaints about this issue. I just want to know if everyone how has a 1000 notice any problems with engine temp.

I have a Gixxer 1000 05 and i have noticed that is runs a litte warm. any comments or have you heard any complaints about this issue. I just want to know if everyone how has a 1000 notice any problems with engine temp.



How warm is a "a little warm?"

It's all realitive.

Russ - Each head, valves, cams combo is different and I would not be able to recomend a spcefic shim with the head here. Sorry.....The only thing I can tell you is that if deffinately should fall with in the stock Suzuki shim range.



Chip,
Thanks for your reply. I have read that some guys had good luck with 105/105 settings? So I can call Suzuki to get some shims? Do you know about how much? I haven't shimmed any bikes before so im not to sure on what to ask.

If you measure the base circle of the original cams and the base circle of the new ones you should be able to work out where to go with the new sizes - that is providing you haven't sunk the seats.
It will need shimming up after its built. You can work out from there exactly what you need. Shims are about £4 each here which is about $7 i think at moment

If you measure the base circle of the original cams and the base circle of the new ones you should be able to work out where to go with the new sizes - that is providing you haven't sunk the seats.
It will need shimming up after its built. You can work out from there exactly what you need. Shims are about £4 each here which is about $7 i think at moment



http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I don't have a degree wheel. I was thinking of after I install the cams, put the motor in, just take it to a shop to see if they will degree them. Sound right?

If you measure the base circle of the original cams and the base circle of the new ones you should be able to work out where to go with the new sizes - that is providing you haven't sunk the seats.
It will need shimming up after its built. You can work out from there exactly what you need. Shims are about £4 each here which is about $7 i think at moment



http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I don't have a degree wheel. I was thinking of after I install the cams, put the motor in, just take it to a shop to see if they will degree them. Sound right?



Take the bike to a professional engine builder and have it done right, it will save you money in the long run. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

I agree, never known a bike shop have a degree wheel. I wouldn't trust the local ones to pump the tyres up.
Degree wheels are cheap to buy or just use a shitty plastic protractor from your kids school set http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Don't want to sound rude or talking down to anyone doing this kind of work, but if you are unsure how to shim and degree then you really ought not be installing cams let alone large profile cams with all the other issues that they bring. It is so easy to screw it all up and then it gets really expensive! Nice to see people giving it a go though. I'd say 5% of all the work that comes through my door is where someone has tried to do it themselves and fucked it right up.

I agree, never known a bike shop have a degree wheel. I wouldn't trust the local ones to pump the tyres up.
Degree wheels are cheap to buy or just use a shitty plastic protractor from your kids school set http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Don't want to sound rude or talking down to anyone doing this kind of work, but if you are unsure how to shim and degree then you really ought not be installing cams let alone large profile cams with all the other issues that they bring. It is so easy to screw it all up and then it gets really expensive! Nice to see people giving it a go though. I'd say 5% of all the work that comes through my door is where someone has tried to do it themselves and fucked it right up.



Damn!!! Only 5%!!!! Thats incredibe!

I have a 1507cc Busa that made all of 180hp before it bent all the exhaust valves....it should have made 225+ hp if it was assembled right.......We told the guy that we would be happy to build it for him, but he wanted to do it himself. $6000 in parts x 2..... plus labor.......instead of saving money, he spent double the amount.

Bummer.

LOL. Yeah only cos i insist on doing it all myself. I do get the occasional one in where they messed around with it - overtightened plugs, put a screwdriver through the oil cooler removing oil filter, tried adjusting the cam timing and bent valves or snapped chain, ........ it would be all too easy to smile, if i wasn't too busy pissing myself with laughter.
I do admire people for trying but most people are far too impatient for engine building. The workshop manuals tell you all you need to know on assembly but that's it. The other stuff you have to work out.

Thanks for your opinions guys! I am very mechanically inclined. Just never worked on a bike motor before and I know that's a different monster. I have the full CD on the bike and I can find the tolerances. I would love to try it myself cause of mola. But at the same time, I don't want to make a mistake either...

What is the size or flow rate of the stock injectors on a GSXR1000? How much HP can you run before your have to go with bigger injectors?

I heard they where around 310cc. is this right?

What is the size or flow rate of the stock injectors on a GSXR1000? How much HP can you run before your have to go with bigger injectors?

I heard they where around 310cc. is this right?



What year 1k for the flow rates?

None are 310cc.....

01-02

240cc is normal for a brand new injectors....that enough for about 230hp.

thanks chip

looking to to cam my 05 1k wondering what cam would u recommen for street use. And how much money would i be looking at to get it done

looking to to cam my 05 1k wondering what cam would u recommen for street use. And how much money would i be looking at to get it done



Yoshimura Stage 1.......$725.

quick question, are the 2001-2003 600 front engine mounting points the same as the 2000-2003 750? I supposedly have a 750 frame, according to the VIN, but my engine is a 600.



no the engine mounts are not the same. if you have a 600 motor in a 750 frame there will be custom brackets or rewelded front motor mounts on your frame. it would actually be tough to make brackets for the 600 motor to fit a 750 frame.

thanx hybrid you rock...

Hi Chip,

I have a question for you.
I own a GSXR 750 from 1987 ( but i question that ) with 29mm flatsides carbs.
I know there was an original tuning kit available that time, so it would produce 130bhp. Can i get hold of it ? and if so, what parts does it contains ? and does my frame will pull it of ?

P.S. can you tell me by my frame number what the year of built is ( GR71G ) ???

Thanks

Hi Chip,

I have a question for you.
I own a GSXR 750 from 1987 ( but i question that ) with 29mm flatsides carbs.
I know there was an original tuning kit available that time, so it would produce 130bhp. Can i get hold of it ? and if so, what parts does it contains ? and does my frame will pull it of ?

P.S. can you tell me by my frame number what the year of built is ( GR71G ) ???

Thanks



Tuning kit.....from 1987...from Suzuki? Uhh....absolutly no chance. Sorry.

Call your local dealer wih your VIN and they can tell you the correct year.

Hi Chip,

I have a question for you.
I own a GSXR 750 from 1987 ( but i question that ) with 29mm flatsides carbs.
I know there was an original tuning kit available that time, so it would produce 130bhp. Can i get hold of it ? and if so, what parts does it contains ? and does my frame will pull it of ?

P.S. can you tell me by my frame number what the year of built is ( GR71G ) ???

Thanks



Tuning kit.....from 1987...from Suzuki? Uhh....absolutly no chance. Sorry.

Call your local dealer wih your VIN and they can tell you the correct year.


I did, but it's an import en the official suzuki importer from the netherlands do not reconize this frame number.

But are there any other easy ways to give this old beest more power ?

anyone know the diffrence between a 03-04 headgasket v/s a 05 headgasket?? being the 05 is on national backorder.

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the 03 Canadian spec and the unrestricted models?

anyone know the diffrence between a 03-04 headgasket v/s a 05 headgasket?? being the 05 is on national backorder.



different part number, but you can use the 03-04 1K head gasket on an 05 1K.

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the 03 Canadian spec and the unrestricted models?



Huh?

Hi chip ... engine question about the can-o-tuna,

I can start the engine, but it will only idle if the choke is on full, and when I push it in it stalls, either the carbs have to be cleaned or I need to fix the rpm idle ?

Hi chip ... engine question about the can-o-tuna,

I can start the engine, but it will only idle if the choke is on full, and when I push it in it stalls, either the carbs have to be cleaned or I need to fix the rpm idle ?




uhhhh....your carbs are bugered up........take them off, inspect every part and then rebuild them.

Hi Chip,

I have a question for you.
I own a GSXR 750 from 1987 ( but i question that ) with 29mm flatsides carbs.
I know there was an original tuning kit available that time, so it would produce 130bhp. Can i get hold of it ? and if so, what parts does it contains ? and does my frame will pull it of ?

P.S. can you tell me by my frame number what the year of built is ( GR71G ) ???

Thanks



Tuning kit.....from 1987...from Suzuki? Uhh....absolutly no chance. Sorry.

Call your local dealer wih your VIN and they can tell you the correct year.


I did, but it's an import en the official suzuki importer from the netherlands do not reconize this frame number.

But are there any other easy ways to give this old beest more power ?



Very easy solution:install a 1052cc engine from a '86-88 GSXR-1100 or a 1127cc from an '89-'92 1100.
Simple,reliable 130rwhp all day long http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Far cheaper then getting 130 hp from that 749cc

Hi Chip,

I have a question for you.
I own a GSXR 750 from 1987 ( but i question that ) with 29mm flatsides carbs.
I know there was an original tuning kit available that time, so it would produce 130bhp. Can i get hold of it ? and if so, what parts does it contains ? and does my frame will pull it of ?

P.S. can you tell me by my frame number what the year of built is ( GR71G ) ???

Thanks



Tuning kit.....from 1987...from Suzuki? Uhh....absolutly no chance. Sorry.

Call your local dealer wih your VIN and they can tell you the correct year.


I did, but it's an import en the official suzuki importer from the netherlands do not reconize this frame number.

But are there any other easy ways to give this old beest more power ?



Very easy solution:install a 1052cc engine from a '86-88 GSXR-1100 or a 1127cc from an '89-'92 1100.
Simple,reliable 130rwhp all day long http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Far cheaper then getting 130 hp from that 749cc



yep.....or sell it and buy a new 750..... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

OK I have a 02 gsxr1000 I would like to get a set of cams. I have 15k on the od. so its time for a valve adjust anyway. My ? is which cams to get? do I need new sprokets? and or any other parts such as, cam chain or anything else.
where to buy! for a good price?
aprox-hp with K&N air filter+micron high exit pipe+ new cams
thanks
Frankie

Yosh Stage one cams are $725 and come with sporckets.

No guess on hp for something we did not build.....sorry.

Where to buy?

whats head tq specs on a 05 1k and cam bolt tq specs. need to know if i am right.


thanks

Where to buy?



Give us a call on monday.

Chip,are you using any of the Ceramic bearings?
Wheels,tranny,etc??
There's been alot of BIG claims about these on the boards,maybe you can give me a builders point of view http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

answerd my own question... and they are using ceramic bearings in the motor, trans,wheels, and shaing water pump blades, ect. for the SS set up. dont know what chip does but I am sure its something along those lines with a few more things.

1.) Yes, we have used ceramic wheel/trans bearings in all kinds of builds. Roadrace/drag/top speed...etc....they are very good and you will see gains in Hp and MPH, but they are expensive....$500 for a set of wheel bearings... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

2.) There is no such thing as ceramic engine bearings......

yes I did say motor by mistake, and was meaning the coatings on the motor beings, such as teflon.

How does a progressive nitrous controller, restrict the flow of the nozzle or is there more than one nozzle. This puzzles me because I only know of solenoids to either open completely or close completely.

it changes the amount of volts the solenoids gets its full open at 12v or above and less it would not open fully. volts v/s time, is about how it works. in the short tail of it.

I was wondering if a 03' 750 head would work on a 03' 600. Also is porting/polishing bad?

here read this site he says that intake porting isn't good and that you need to make the intakes smaller to gain more horespower.

750 head won't fit a 600. Much bigger bore and valves.
Polishing ports is a waste of time. If its 500 dollars and polished everywhere then they are not doing a good head because the polishing takes a long time meaning no money left in the job to improve the flow.
Intakes don't always want to be smaller. Sometimes they need to be bigger. Sometimes bigger in one area and smaller in another. This is a big job and costs loads of money which most people won't pay for. Also the filler doesn't stay in forever so not a good idea for roadbikes.

What Tim said..........

We charge $1K for KWS Pro Head Work......Ported and Radius valve job.

This is a big valve GSX-R1000 head with Bronze seats.....very trick, very expensive, and VERY FAST!


http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/head.jpg

thanks

Here is a quick one-

Why such a performance difference in cans? They all seem to be pretty much straight tubes w/ holes in the inner walls to absorb sound... why are different maps needed for each variety?
(wish I had that 1000cc head above- looks sweet)

Simple.Aftermarket cans do not have to meet strict emission/noise pollution guidelines,therefore they can "breathe" better and flow more CFM,hence your increase in power & the need for a different map

Here is a quick one-

Why such a performance difference in cans? They all seem to be pretty much straight tubes w/ holes in the inner walls to absorb sound... why are different maps needed for each variety?
(wish I had that 1000cc head above- looks sweet)



Do you mean different aftermarket cans or the difference between aftermarket and stock cans?

As for the head......You can have a head just like it..... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

I'm talking about aftermarket cans... do the spacing/ size of the holes along the sides of the pipe (in the can) really effect power so differently that seperate maps are needed? Seems like there would be one type of hole that was most efficient and the differences would be amount of sound proofing material, outside finish, etc.- but at the end of the day its still a straight pipe with some holes in it!

I'm talking about aftermarket cans... do the spacing/ size of the holes along the sides of the pipe (in the can) really effect power so differently that seperate maps are needed? Seems like there would be one type of hole that was most efficient and the differences would be amount of sound proofing material, outside finish, etc.- but at the end of the day its still a straight pipe with some holes in it!



The diameter and flow capcity of an end can will effect Hp but not all that much. The most power is made in the first 1/3 of the header.....everything after that is just fine tuning.

Some are better than others for sure.....D&D vs LeoVince.......LeoVince is a much, much, much better end can and makes significantly more power (realitive) to a D&D...

As for mapping.....there is not much of difference from end can to end can......but there is some.

P.S. - We do some killer SCCA C sports racer motor kits...... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

My car is one of the 1st open wheel DSR-type cars. We are talking about using a single inlet restrictor to limit HP to around 180... this should help keep costs down. If F1000 does not take off I may consider having a 1000 built (05 to 1050?) or even adding a turbo. I've got some Formula Atlantic sidepods (tunnels) which I will mount with eithor of the later options.

In any event, I would not want to top 250hp as the chassis was not made for that kind of power.

What would it cost (the old cost question) to take a 05 1000 to a reliable 250hp? 200hp?

Nice car dude. Have you got a website with more details on it? I'd love to have something like that for a bit of fun. What sort of money can you pick up a rolling f3 chassis for these days? PM if you like

My car is one of the 1st open wheel DSR-type cars. We are talking about using a single inlet restrictor to limit HP to around 180... this should help keep costs down. If F1000 does not take off I may consider having a 1000 built (05 to 1050?) or even adding a turbo. I've got some Formula Atlantic sidepods (tunnels) which I will mount with eithor of the later options.

In any event, I would not want to top 250hp as the chassis was not made for that kind of power.

What would it cost (the old cost question) to take a 05 1000 to a reliable 250hp? 200hp?



200hp.....not much cash.........250hp normally aspirated......LOTS of CASH!

Inlet restrictors tend to increase cost and decrease driveablity........inlet restrictors suck!

Give me a call...... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Also some more info here:

KWS Motorsports (http://www.kwsmotorsports.com)

We charge $1K for KWS Pro Head Work......Ported and Radius valve job.


That's a good price for that quality of head with a radius valve job. What machine are you using for the radius job? I was looking at the newen contour the other week. Serious bit of kit but serious money.
$1000 is similar to what we charge over here for a properly gasflowed head with good seat job. One of my filled BSB-spec cbr600rr heads is $1800 but it takes over 40 hours to prepare and has about 300 hours of development in it.

We charge $1K for KWS Pro Head Work......Ported and Radius valve job.


That's a good price for that quality of head with a radius valve job. What machine are you using for the radius job? I was looking at the newen contour the other week. Serious bit of kit but serious money.
$1000 is similar to what we charge over here for a properly gasflowed head with good seat job. One of my filled BSB-spec cbr600rr heads is $1800 but it takes over 40 hours to prepare and has about 300 hours of development in it.



We use a Serdi machine to cut seats.......it is by far the best we have found.......

The head pictured above is a big valve GSX-R1K head with bronze seats and a bunch of other tricks.....$2350!

250 rwhp out of a N/A 1000??
Honestly,I dont think it's possible.And if it was,it wouldn't live very long.
The most I've seen is 225 out of a stroker engine(1200cc+),and the main bearings need to be replaced after every race weekend.Way too much hassle&headache

Nice car dude. Have you got a website with more details on it? I'd love to have something like that for a bit of fun. What sort of money can you pick up a rolling f3 chassis for these days? PM if you like



Its all right here Tim:
http://p104.ezboard.com/fformulasfrm7.showMessage?topicID=2.topic

chip what would you suggest for head work on a 3 mm 01 1000 big valve or not ?. what would be the cost/hp torque difference bw them ?.... thanks

How much can I gain if I remove the charing system on my 600?

How much gain with an aftermarket ecu from yoshimura?

What do you thank about Factory Pro Velocity Stacks?


Thanks

6bhp.
1000 more revs and power doesn't tail off at top.
Midrange ok, top end shit.

How much can I gain if I remove the charing system on my 600?

How much gain with an aftermarket ecu from yoshimura?

What do you thank about Factory Pro Velocity Stacks?


Thanks



Again....what Tim said......but to add to that:

Total Loss: pain in the butt and lots of testing to figure out what the thresh hold of the battery is before the bike starts to quit working. How many laps? What size battery? How to start the bike? Etc......in most cases, unless you are at the ragged edge of what you can do for a given set of rules, its not worth it. I know of only one team that is going to attempt it this year in AMA Superbike.....and that is only for Qualifying.

The Kit ECU (EM Pro) is really cool and has an amazing amount of adjustablity, but unless you have a lot of time to invest on the Dyno develping it and taking advantage of the addtional adjustablity then it is a waste of money.

The Power Commander USB with Ignition modual and quick shifter does almost all the stuff the Kit box does and is much easier to tune and cheaper.

Velocity Stacks - Rule of thumb......long intake track = More torque / Short intake track = More Hp. Stock or Billett....it doesn't matter.

Chip- would there be any benefit from holding the top butterflies open? My motor stays between 7 & 12,000rpm all the time....
tia!

I'll agree with chip wholly on that one. Removing the generator is far far more hastle than its worth. You will struggle to do a long race without it. Ok on old carb engines but not on fi when running powercommander, fuel pump, ecu, butterflies, sensors, etc

Chip- would there be any benefit from holding the top butterflies open? My motor stays between 7 & 12,000rpm all the time....
tia!



Small Hp gain, but a loss in driveablity. Combined with a bunch of other mods it is benifitial for wide open applications.......but sucks for going from off throttle to on throttle on corner entry

chip what would you suggest for head work on a 3 mm 01 1000 big valve or not ?. w
hat would be the cost/hp torque difference bw them ?.... thanks





i think you overlooked my ? it was at the end of the previous page.

chip what would you suggest for head work on a 3 mm 01 1000 big valve or not ?. w
hat would be the cost/hp torque difference bw them ?.... thanks





i think you overlooked my ? it was at the end of the previous page.



Sorry.....big valve head would help a little....5hp or so......but is not necessary with the 1070cc motor.

what do you charge to do a standard valve versus a big valve ?

so what would you suggest for me to get/do to get more horsepower. I already have motor bored to maximum legal size which is 1mm over and high compression pistons. I also had my head cut and valves lapped. Crank balanced and I have a power commander. Air filter and exhaust I cant do because I run my 600 in micro sprint. I knew that cutting out the charging system causes a big hassel but some guys do it. I just wonted to know how much they were really gaining.

Thanks

Just got me a set of Web racing cams (540/566) with adjustable sprockets. I'm going to drop the motor to pull the head and replace the stock valve springs with brand new 750 springs. I'm going to stay with the OEM headgasket. I'm also going to install a manual cam tensioner. After I get the motor together im going to take the motor to a shop so they can degree the cams to 105/105 specs.

Is there anything else I should do while im this far?

Is there anything else I should do while im this far?


Invest in new underpants http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Is there anything else I should do while im this far?


Invest in new underpants http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif



hahaha sweet, shattin underpants is free too! http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Well I have some think so's and don't think so's but I was hoping that some one here can look and make sure that an 01 gsxr-1000 engine will just bolt into an 06 gsxr-1000 frame I have my 01 bonneville racing frame but I want to use a newer frame for other racing like Maxton and Texas

Thanks

Where should I degree in my stock cams for my 03' 600?

I am looking for more horespower at mid range.


Thanks

hey chip quick ? i had a guy set up valve clearance on the intakes at .30-.33 mm yosh stage r type r cams the service manuall only calls for .10-.20 mm would setting the clearance so loose have any effect on power or anything else ? thanks

Ok...going to be installing the web cams here soon in my K3. Should I go with the thinner headgasket or stay with OEM? Someone told me that the OEM headgasket seals better. I'm not doing anything with the head except for new 750 valve springs. If I get the thinner, what brand and where to get the cheapest price? So far im leaning towards the OEM gasket. Who sells head bolts or should I go with studs incase I decide to spray it later for some strange unknown reason?

Yosh head gasket. 0.1mm thinner.

Yosh head gasket. 0.1mm thinner.



So is that what you recommend? How much of a bump in compression is it? How much are they? I'm wondering if its actually worth getting...

Yes. Squish gain from this mod more important than compression gain.

Yes. Squish gain from this mod more important than compression gain.



Squish gain???

Yes. Squish gain from this mod more important than compression gain.



yep......watch valve to piston clearances.......big time.

hey chip quick ? i had a guy set up valve clearance on the intakes at .30-.33 mm yosh stage r type r cams the service manuall only calls for .10-.20 mm would setting the clearance so loose have any effect on power or anything else ? thanks



a little loose for racing is a good thing.

Yes. Squish gain from this mod more important than compression gain.



yep......watch valve to piston clearances.......big time.



So would it be ok if I were to go with the thinner gasket? I got the web cams (540/566). Also, whats the price for the thinner gasket? What is the average gain by going thinner?

You need to dry build the motor dude and then and ONLY THEN will you know whether the clearances you have are ok. There are so many tolerances with the engines from the factory that its impossible to say without measuring it. If you were running stock cams then its an easy answer, but when you go to big cams its got to be checked.
My suggestion would be to dry build with an old stock gasket and go from there.

As for squish - also known as quench. Have a quick read of this, its gay 2-valve V8's but you'll get the picture
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/

Oh and as for whether its worth it, how far do you want to go? There are tuned engines and then there are tuned engines......
<font color="orange"> </font>

You need to dry build the motor dude and then and ONLY THEN will you know whether the clearances you have are ok. There are so many tolerances with the engines from the factory that its impossible to say without measuring it. If you were running stock cams then its an easy answer, but when you go to big cams its got to be checked.
My suggestion would be to dry build with an old stock gasket and go from there.




+1
I dry built my FZR motor about 8 times. Only the head though, I didn't really want to pull off the cylinders. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

You need to dry build the motor dude and then and ONLY THEN will you know whether the clearances you have are ok. There are so many tolerances with the engines from the factory that its impossible to say without measuring it. If you were running stock cams then its an easy answer, but when you go to big cams its got to be checked.
My suggestion would be to dry build with an old stock gasket and go from there.

As for squish - also known as quench. Have a quick read of this, its gay 2-valve V8's but you'll get the picture
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/

Oh and as for whether its worth it, how far do you want to go? There are tuned engines and then there are tuned engines......
<font color="orange"> </font>



Thanks for the link! Very good read for sure. As long as the clearence will be ok and since I need to get a new gasket also, I might go ahead and try the thinner. I hear its close but I have never heard of any problems with these cams. What I will do is use clay on the piston with the head on using the stock gasket to see how it looks then I will use the thinner one.
Now should I get oem headbolts or use studs?

OEM fine. Use solder wire to check squish clearance and clay for ptv. Put a light layer of grease on valves before checking ptv or they may pull the clay up with them.

OEM fine. Use solder wire to check squish clearance and clay for ptv. Put a light layer of grease on valves before checking ptv or they may pull the clay up with them.



Thanks for the tip Tim http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Chip- Can running race gas (100-110 leaded) with an otherwise stock motor (have PC and straight through exhaust) give me any power gains? If so, what is the best way to maximize the potential?

Carnut, i hate it when you post on here because your sig appears with that lovely car on it and i wet myself ........ oh well, dreams are not a bad thing

Chip,

Can you tell us more about your big valve heads. Why is it so good? Also If a normaly aspirated K5 has about 190 ish HP would you reccomend new conrods?

Cheers
MP

Carnut, i hate it when you post on here because your sig appears with that lovely car on it and i wet myself ........ oh well, dreams are not a bad thing



Not that expensive to build Tim. Little more expensive to run... but life is short. Van Diemen is selling a new 1000cc car now (as well as Jedi, Speads, Gloria and others) for around $40,000. You can build an F1000 w/ a mid 90's donor for about $25,000 (like mine). Sounds expensive (compared to a bike) yes, but 2.5g's in the corners &amp; under braking, 0-60 in the low 3s and lap times that put Vipers, 911 turbos and M3s to shame....

check out the site I gave you the link to.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/carnut169/vdnn2.jpg

Now back to motor questions (and no more hijacking, promise!)

I tried looking through your site before but was reaching for the tissue box within a couple of minutes .......
Sorry for jacking http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif the thread

I got myself into a jam. I bought an 02' 1000 with alot of mods. But i dont know how to tell if they are true. Full ackropovic, oil pick up valve, port polish head, 1mm over, stage one cams, kn filter 520conversion 43t in rear. Ive beat busa's and zx12 with power cammander and exhaust on the roll but im only pushing 162hp without powercommander i have a tfi now but no dyno since that was added. Does any of this sound correct on the horsepower side i want to findout whats in this bike i bought it from a dealer.

162 is what i'd expect from a stock engine with full akra system

Well i know for shore the head is ported and polished and it has cams in the engine and i had the compression checked and all was good. Doesnt the stock bike come with around 135-140hp to the wheel. Any help is good.

I guess it depends on the dyno but all the ones i've run with a full akrapovic evo system have made over 160bhp. Stock make about 150 on k3-4 and about 4 less on k1-k2.

If its not the dyno then maybe the head has been ported wrong. Its easier to decrease a heads performance these days than improve it!!

If the dyno is wrong do u mean i have more power than that. I also beat the 05 and 06 gixxer 1000. I beat them 4times a piece to make sure i was right off a roll each time once from dead stop but i have a 6inch stretch

what should i do?

Its not a case of dyno being wrong just some read very low compared to others. What power are that shop getting from other 1000's?

160 to the wheel but a hell of a lot lighter

Chip- Can running race gas (100-110 leaded) with an otherwise stock motor (have PC and straight through exhaust) give me any power gains? If so, what is the best way to maximize the potential?



Sorry guys, I have been neglecting this thread.....

High Octane fuel can actually lower the HP. IF you want to run race gas then use real race gas. VP MR-9 is good for about 5-6 hp all over and is 87 octane.

MRX-01 will give you slightly less hp but will allow for higher compression....it's 98 octane.

100 - 110 octane is only good if you are running more than 13.8:1 - 14:1 compression.

I got myself into a jam. I bought an 02' 1000 with alot of mods. But i dont know how to tell if they are true. Full ackropovic, oil pick up valve, port polish head, 1mm over, stage one cams, kn filter 520conversion 43t in rear. Ive beat busa's and zx12 with power cammander and exhaust on the roll but im only pushing 162hp without powercommander i have a tfi now but no dyno since that was added. Does any of this sound correct on the horsepower side i want to findout whats in this bike i bought it from a dealer.



Seems low to me......but if your happy with the bike then......who cares.

What kind of Dyno? Post the pull.

Dont know how to post the pull it but the mid range is very aggressive even the guys who ran the bike thought so

Chip..how much are the thinner headgaskets for my K3?

Hey Chip, this is not a big HP question, but you and some of the rest of these guys on here will have the best knowledge for my question. Last season I was using my bike for trackdays and was running water and water wetter. Well I left the bike in the trailer without thinking about it, and the temperatures dropped...you can guess the rest of the story. After thawing the bike out, I started it and ran it up to temperature, then drained the oil. Out came about 5 quarts of chocolate milk. Well shit, so next move was to use a borescope to check out my cylinder walls, so I put about 10psi of air pressure on the coolant system and scoped the cylider walls. I did not see any leakage. I really do not have the time right now to tear into the engine, but I am afraid that is what it is going to be, or I am going to need to pay someone to do it. So here is my question, What is the next step? where in the engine is there the least amount of material between the coolant and the oil? Where do I need to look for damage? I assume the next step is to pull the head off and look at the gasket area, but I am not sure. Do you think it is worth paying someone to check out, or do you think the motor is shot? BTW this is a K2 1000.

Could be oil cooler as that runs coolant and oil in the same unit and is external. Check that out first as it could be that simple.

Will a turbo Kit from MR TURBO KIT 89-92 GSXR 1100 Fit on a 1988 GSXR 1100 1052 engine ?

Could be oil cooler as that runs coolant and oil in the same unit and is external. Check that out first as it could be that simple.



I am pretty sure my oil cooler is just air/oil. It has one tube flowing oil in and another flowing oil out. No coolant in there.

It will be the core plugs in the cylinder head, take off the cam cover &amp; look between the cams. Good luck.

My bad, was working on 750 engine at time. 1000 has external cooler and others have integral unit.
Were there any lumps of white shit in coolant passages near top of barrels? Can't see it coming from water pump as the water part is external.

You should also check the water pump, i have seen them crack on the inside.
Also check the water pump drive &amp; oil pump drive, have seen these broken as well.

BUMP

Hey Chip, this is not a big HP question, but you and some of the rest of these guys on here will have the best knowledge for my question. Last season I was using my bike for trackdays and was running water and water wetter. Well I left the bike in the trailer without thinking about it, and the temperatures dropped...you can guess the rest of the story. After thawing the bike out, I started it and ran it up to temperature, then drained the oil. Out came about 5 quarts of chocolate milk. Well shit, so next move was to use a borescope to check out my cylinder walls, so I put about 10psi of air pressure on the coolant system and scoped the cylider walls. I did not see any leakage. I really do not have the time right now to tear into the engine, but I am afraid that is what it is going to be, or I am going to need to pay someone to do it. So here is my question, What is the next step? where in the engine is there the least amount of material between the coolant and the oil? Where do I need to look for damage? I assume the next step is to pull the head off and look at the gasket area, but I am not sure. Do you think it is worth paying someone to check out, or do you think the motor is shot? BTW this is a K2 1000.



In reality it could have cracked any where.......but I would check the freeze plugs in the head right below the cams. They are really easy to see once you get the valve cover off.

Good luck!

Will a turbo Kit from MR TURBO KIT 89-92 GSXR 1100 Fit on a 1988 GSXR 1100 1052 engine ?



No idea....call Mr.Turbo......I don't think I have seen one of those kits in 10 years at least....

Chip- Can running race gas (100-110 leaded) with an otherwise stock motor (have PC and straight through exhaust) give me any power gains? If so, what is the best way to maximize the potential?



Sorry guys, I have been neglecting this thread.....

High Octane fuel can actually lower the HP. IF you want to run race gas then use real race gas. VP MR-9 is good for about 5-6 hp all over and is 87 octane.

MRX-01 will give you slightly less hp but will allow for higher compression....it's 98 octane.

100 - 110 octane is only good if you are running more than 13.8:1 - 14:1 compression.



Thanks. So would you recommend 'regular' unleaded 87 over premium 93 from say, Chevron?

Thanks Ill give them a call any advice on turbo kits for my bike I also have a 1340 block and pistons im going to instal.

Chip- Can running race gas (100-110 leaded) with an otherwise stock motor (have PC and straight through exhaust) give me any power gains? If so, what is the best way to maximize the potential?



Sorry guys, I have been neglecting this thread.....

High Octane fuel can actually lower the HP. IF you want to run race gas then use real race gas. VP MR-9 is good for about 5-6 hp all over and is 87 octane.

MRX-01 will give you slightly less hp but will allow for higher compression....it's 98 octane.

100 - 110 octane is only good if you are running more than 13.8:1 - 14:1 compression.



Thanks. So would you recommend 'regular' unleaded 87 over premium 93 from say, Chevron?



I would recommend running the lowest octane your motor can take without detonation. VP race fuel is by far the best choice but it is expensive.

What are the differences between cam profiles on the K5 600 and 750?? Thanks!

And can you use 750 IN-EX cams in a 600?

Got another question. Has anyone here ridden a turbocharged bike and a supercharged bike? If so, what are the differences? Another writer suggested a place out in California called California Superbikes (calisuperbikes.com). They have a SC kit for the '05 GSX-R1000 and I'm salivating at the thought of having 200+ horses on tap without the unexpected shock of on/off turbo boost.

I have a turbocharged GSX-R1000 ('03) so I know what that's all about. Now I want to see what a supercharged bike is like. I'm really only looking for feedback from folks who have ridden both types of bikes and can tell me the difference, if any, in power delivery. Thanks.

Hey Chip have a question old schoolish.
I know for a fact you can throw in 93-95 750 cams into a 97 rf900 for 12-15hp gain.
My question is doing the same thing for 93-98 1100's. There is an article supertune 1100 that states you can, But someone else from mentioned it wasn't worth it.
If not, Do you have info on how to properly adjust the stock 93-98 1100 for performance.
Thanks for info/help.
I would buy webcams if i had the cash http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Chip,

What is the MAXIMUM stroke you can push a 04 GSXR 600 engine too? Possible at all to swap in a 1000 Crank?.... I have done a 750 Crank in a 600, never tried a 1000, thought maybe you would know before I try anything.... I know its going to take some serious pistons and head rasing, but could it be done?

FYI

04 600 Bore and Stroke 67x42.5mm
04 750 Bore and Stroke 72x46mm
04 1000 Bore and Stroke 73x59mm

Scott

1.) 750 cams in a 600.....your better off running 1K cams.

2.) Old school......sorry, I haven't messed with that stuff in years.

3.) 1000 crank will not work in 600 cases. Be careful on stroking a motor, there are several disadvantages that have to be overcome in the build. The biggest on being piston speed.

What year 1000 cams for a 05 600?????

Thanks http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Chip,

Can you put 06 750 valve springs in a 96-99 750 cylinder head?

Chip,

Installed Mps Fast FI unit to Secondaries, ( 05 1k) while Keeping PC connected to Primaries w/ current dyno'd map. Did this in an attempt to increase fueling , because primaries would max be out if i increased #'s to existing map..... for bigger N20 jetting. Considereing all 8 injectors are the same 25 lb'ers. I could control / use the secondaries to add more fuel,with out maxing primaries.



Any advice would be appreciated,Rick

Hey Chip, I am about to order a billiet clutch basket.My question involves pressing the rivots out of the basket.I have acess to a machine shop and am a journeyman auto tech.Why do you have to use over size rivets? do you have to drill out the originals?Thanks for your time.

hi there, this questions is about the hsr42 mikuni used on a draw through turbo gsxr 1277cc.
apparently there are some mods to be done ( such as big cc racing in the uk do) to this carb for turbo use. before i attempt any dyno time i was hoping that someone out there can enlighten me with thier wisdom on this subject. is there a specific needle size ? clip position? main jet? pilot jet ? etc... . will be using 10-15 psi of boost, hopefully on the 94 octane pump gas. comp is 8:5 to 1, dyna 2000 ign. set at #1 , head is ported with heavy springs, carrillo, mtc lock up, studs are done. holley fuel pump , pressure regulator. any tips to point me in the right direction would be great, thanks.

What year 1000 cams for a 05 600?????

Thanks http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif



01-04

Chip,

Can you put 06 750 valve springs in a 96-99 750 cylinder head?



Nope...

Chip,

Installed Mps Fast FI unit to Secondaries, ( 05 1k) while Keeping PC connected to Primaries w/ current dyno'd map. Did this in an attempt to increase fueling , because primaries would max be out if i increased #'s to existing map..... for bigger N20 jetting. Considereing all 8 injectors are the same 25 lb'ers. I could control / use the secondaries to add more fuel,with out maxing primaries.



Any advice would be appreciated,Rick



Sorry, I am not sure exactly what you are asking?

Hey Chip, I am about to order a billiet clutch basket.My question involves pressing the rivots out of the basket.I have acess to a machine shop and am a journeyman auto tech.Why do you have to use over size rivets? do you have to drill out the originals?Thanks for your time.



Leave them in......

New Billet basket has the gear already installed and we will remove the gear from the old basket.

C
Chip,

Installed Mps Fast FI unit to Secondaries, ( 05 1k) while Keeping PC connected to Primaries w/ current dyno'd map. Did this in an attempt to increase fueling , because primaries would max be out if i increased #'s to existing map..... for bigger N20 jetting. Considereing all 8 injectors are the same 25 lb'ers. I could control / use the secondaries to add more fuel,with out maxing primaries.



Any advice would be appreciated,Rick



Sorry, I am not sure exactly what you are asking?





Chip,


Got MPS FASt FI unit , with all pots set to zero , I only want the Instant rich feature......To activate Simutaneously with N20 use.

I want to use PC for all motor map and MPS instant rich for only N20 use.

Will Connecting Mps to the secondaries instead of the primaries work ?

Thanks, Rick

Thanks for the info Chip.I will give you a call about that basket.I just shaved the head on my 1000 .020 and installed 05 cams with a yosh gasket.Do you think I need a high volumn oil pump gear and upgraded relief valve? Do you do them with similar top end mods?

Hey Chip,

What are the cam spec's on a 05 gsxr600? I'm looking to do some cam swapping and I have all the specs but the 600's.

Thank you!

Hello,
I was wondering if you could give me an opinion of what you think of my upgrade path. I have an 01 750 stock with a slip on. I am planning on adding a 1k header/midpipe for more top end, which years will fit? I also wanted to install a 1k intake cam and swap thr 750 in. to the exhaust with gears ect. I don't have alot of $$ to spend. Are yosh/webcams that much better? What are the specs on them compared to the 1k swap? I also plan on some sort of engine management, havent figured out which one to go with yet. I'd like to be able to get 136-138 trap speeds if possible, right now I am at 133 and I'd like to get closer to 1k trap speeds. Let me know what you think, I am keeping an open mind..Thanks in advance for your time..

1k cam swap - 130-135bhp
Str cams - 140-145bhp
Stick with stock ecu. Only thing better is motec and that will set you back over $5K

How much would it cost to get some STR cams??I am going to need something to tune the bike unless I get it remapped and I have not found anyone that knows what they are doing in my area, thats why I would get a PC or yosh EMS to tune ut myself on a dyno or on the street with a wideband..1k cam swap - 130-135bhp
Str cams - 140-145bhp
Stick with stock ecu. Only thing better is motec and that will set you back over $5K

how much power will a 2003 gsxr 600 clutch basket hold up to? can i throw 215 hp to a 2003 gsxr 600 crank without it breaking?

how much power will a 2003 gsxr 600 clutch basket hold up to? can i throw 215 hp to a 2003 gsxr 600 crank without it breaking?

Clutch - 145 or so...

Crank - No.....:D

so your saying my clutch basket wont hold. im running 180 hp to it right now. and as far as the crank what do u mean NO :D ?

CHIP

I THINK ITS AWESOME THAT YOU DO THIS

Really, I'm a do-it-yourself kinda guy for a lot of these projects (though I have a certain sense when i'm over my head and leave it to the experts), and even if I dont do the work I still like to know about all of this. Its quite nice of you to take your time and answer all these questions, esp since you continuously try to make this NOT about just selling your services! :) I'll certainly be considering KWS next time I need some work done

Question -

Factory Pro vs Dyno jet dynos, your thoughts? Steady state or inertia?

Is a teka tuned suzuki black box equal to a box w/ a powercommander? any advantages either way?

Marc Salvisberg, via his website, makes rather compelling arguments for his dyno's, but I'm not an expert so I may be easily convinced. what do YOU think?

I think the bloke is a nutcase and that's not just because i own a dynojet!! I don't get complaints about bikes i map for the road and racebikes i map win lots of races so i kind of figure these arguments about numbers are kind of irrelevant. That's just my opinion though. I guess some people prefer to push there product by discrediting the opposition

so your saying my clutch basket wont hold. im running 180 hp to it right now. and as far as the crank what do u mean NO :D ?

215hp through a stock crank 600 is rolling loaded dice.....and if you are launching hard on a stock 600 basket it will break too. You are asking that motor to double its output with no structural changes? It is going to go boom in a big way......

CHIP

I THINK ITS AWESOME THAT YOU DO THIS

Really, I'm a do-it-yourself kinda guy for a lot of these projects (though I have a certain sense when i'm over my head and leave it to the experts), and even if I dont do the work I still like to know about all of this. Its quite nice of you to take your time and answer all these questions, esp since you continuously try to make this NOT about just selling your services! :) I'll certainly be considering KWS next time I need some work done

Question -

Factory Pro vs Dyno jet dynos, your thoughts? Steady state or inertia?

Is a teka tuned suzuki black box equal to a box w/ a powercommander? any advantages either way?

Marc Salvisberg, via his website, makes rather compelling arguments for his dyno's, but I'm not an expert so I may be easily convinced. what do YOU think?

Thanks....it is no problem what so ever.

As for the dyno question.......Dynojet is the industry standard...period...that there is a reason why.....they are the best.

i can understand that im putting double the power to the crank but what about the hayabusas that are making over 500.. also is there any aftermarket cranks or someone who can strength the stock crank

I think the bloke is a nutcase and that's not just because i own a dynojet!! I don't get complaints about bikes i map for the road and racebikes i map win lots of races so i kind of figure these arguments about numbers are kind of irrelevant. That's just my opinion though. I guess some people prefer to push there product by discrediting the opposition

Tim, was I asking you?? Seems like my Q was addressed to chip...........

Just kidding man! From what I have seen recently it sounds like you know your shit too

QUESTION -

Is it true that Fact. Pro dynos are far more consistent between different examples? IE, take the same bike to several FP dynos and they give essentially the same HP ? None of this "this dyno reads high, this dyno reads low..." stuff?

Thats one of the things that sticks in my mind about FP vs DJ, the DJ dynos seem to vary so much. Your thoughts, comments? Is it just that a tuner tends to use just one dyno and the results that come out are all relative....?

chip, if I were to change out my 05 600 cams for the 01-04 1000 cams, what other things am I going to need to change? Also, I may have missed this in the thread but what kind of power difference might I get out of this change if I get a full exhaust to go with it? Right now, the only mods I have are BMC filter, and a yoshi can which does nothing but make it sound better, and a PC3 with dynojet's map.
I should probably have it tuned after doing the mods correct?

Thats one of the things that sticks in my mind about FP vs DJ, the DJ dynos seem to vary so much. Your thoughts, comments? Is it just that a tuner tends to use just one dyno and the results that come out are all relative....?
It would be wrong of my to comment on FP dyno's because i've never used one.
What i can tell you about DJ's is i see quite different power readings depending on the weather conditions. A tuned 600 might make 130bhp in the heat of summer but 135 in coldest depths of winter. Same goes for altitude and partly humiditiy too. Now i would have thought these issues would be the same regardless of dyno make because they all use the same correction factors and cold air is obviously more dense.
On the issue of repeatability. From the other dynojet machines i've seen my bikes go on, i've never seen more than about 2bhp per 100bhp difference. This is comparing old with new. Again if you pick the higher one in winter and the lower in summer then the difference could be considerably more.
The other big issue when looking at figures comes down to the operator. Some places will give you run 1 or 2 as the base and to be honest, the bike and dyno need more runs to get an accurate base reading. The first run might read 4bhp less than the 4th or 5th on a 1000 with the 2nd being 2bhp more than 1st.
Hope this helps. I guess what you really need is a dyno operator that has used both extensively to comment. I look for a fair before and after when making changes but admittedly this can become confusing sometimes due to the weather

ok, hate to sound like I know nothing about the Fi motors, but I don't...lol. I have a 2k 600 with a n/a 750 in it now. I recently purchased a '01 750 motor that I am going to attempt to put in it. Im a straight line guy and was wondering if it would be better to just do the 1k swap instead? I feel like i'm starting all over, now going to FI. But, I want to to have fun messing with peoples heads (and maybe taking their money;)). I really am trying to decide what direction I should take for my next winter project.:confused Any thoughts on this?

Will a full stock 2005/06 exhaust system fit a 2001/2002 GSX-R1000...and will it produce any more power than the original stock 2001/2001 exhaust system?

Yes it will bolt and you will need to fab mounts to make it work in the rear and mid mount. No you will not gain any performance to swapping to a newer stock exhaust, probably lose, because the newer motors have more HP, and the system is tuned to that exhaust.

Just wondering if I can use a stock 05 clutch basket in my 03 gsxr 1000 and if I can just use 03 clutches and inner hub?

I was wondering what kind of gains I could expect by swapping a 1000 intake cam (04) in to my (05) 750 then moving my intake to the exhaust side and dialing it in with APE adjustable cam gears.

Chip, Or any one else who can help...
I have a 03 600 and I was thinking about swaping cams. I have been told to put a 00-03 750 intake on the intake and a 00-02 1000 exhaust on the exhaust side. I have a 03 1000 Ti Header and Sato Can on the back with a BMC Race Filter and a TRE and a PCIII. It has been tuned By Ryan Schnitz and currently make 106 RWHP. I just need alittle more out of the bike and I think this is what I need. My Question is do I need to worry about Valve Spring fatigue on my cylinder head. Any Help would be appreciated....Thanks....Justin

Chip i need a 10 inch over swing arm .a pc3usb and a reasonably priced air shifter for my 02 1k where can i find them?

Chip i need a 10 inch over swing arm .a pc3usb and a reasonably priced air shifter for my 02 1k where can i find them?
Psychobike.com

What are some simple mods i can do to my 04 gsxr 750 . My chain guides arent workin right so i might as well add sum add ons when the engine is down and opend. Do you have any suggestions?

What are some simple mods i can do to my 04 gsxr 750 . My chain guides arent workin right so i might as well add sum add ons when the engine is down and opend. Do you have any suggestions?
Your chain guides arent working right? Are you on crack, how could they not be working right? Unless you had them out before and put the wrong ones in, you cant put them in backwards, all they do is sit there and guide the timing chain, I dont understand what you mean about not working right. Please elaborate a little.

Scott

PS. I changed my timing chain and guide and tensioner at 35000 miles on my 04/600 no problems, no wear, no nothing.