Relocated AIT sensor .......for NOS to spray over to richen fuel mix

before
http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/Picture_472_edit.jpg
sensor removed
http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/Picture_473_edit.jpg
drilled new position
http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/Picture_475_edit.jpg
new position/old pos. plugged
http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/Picture_476_edit.jpg
http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/Picture_477_edit.jpg

Will it work ?

will it work.. possibly but dont expect it to increase much.. No way in hell id run nitrous hoping that sensor notice.. just not worth the risk to me... whats the conparison... 300.00 power comander versus cost of a motor...

Totally agree with a PC to add extra fuel, NOT asking
if i needed a PC, asking if the new sensor placement
would help with nitrous fueling . Moving AIT sensor
was recommended along with doing dual fogger set up .

I have the fogger in the middle at the front.

I have it fogging toward the floor of the air box.

I extended the wires of the AIS and put it directly below the fogger.

This means the fogger literally freezes the AIS when you hit the gas.

It's probably not good for the AIS but it works.

I ran it on the dyno with a 40hp dry shot and the A/F went from arround 13 to 13.4 normal to 13.8 at the worst when I used the gas.

I don't have a pic handy but I'll post one up in a few days when I get home.

I have the fogger in the middle at the front.

I have it fogging toward the floor of the air box.

I extended the wires of the AIS and put it directly below the fogger.

This means the fogger literally freezes the AIS when you hit the gas.

It's probably not good for the AIS but it works.

I ran it on the dyno with a 40hp dry shot and the A/F went from arround 13 to 13.4 normal to 13.8 at the worst when I used the gas.

I don't have a pic handy but I'll post one up in a few days when I get home.



Stocky,
A pic would be great would like to see the way you have it set up.
Was told (advised) not to spray directly on sensor,thats why its at
this position now. You might not tell from picture , but its directly in
path of spray. Can you tell me what size jets you've tried and what
HP numbers you've gotten ? (if you don't mind)
Are you using a Power Commander to get 13;1 A./F
What is best A/F ratio on spray?
I was thiking more like 12.5;1 A/F ratoi would be safe.

Merry Xmas, Rick

I have the fogger in the middle at the front.

I have it fogging toward the floor of the air box.

I extended the wires of the AIS and put it directly below the fogger.

This means the fogger literally freezes the AIS when you hit the gas.

It's probably not good for the AIS but it works.

I ran it on the dyno with a 40hp dry shot and the A/F went from arround 13 to 13.4 normal to 13.8 at the worst when I used the gas.

I don't have a pic handy but I'll post one up in a few days when I get home.



Stocky,
A pic would be great would like to see the way you have it set up.
Was told (advised) not to spray directly on sensor,thats why its at
this position now. You might not tell from picture , but its directly in
path of spray. Can you tell me what size jets you've tried and what
HP numbers you've gotten ? (if you don't mind)
Are you using a Power Commander to get 13;1 A./F
What is best A/F ratio on spray?
I was thiking more like 12.5;1 A/F ratoi would be safe.

Merry Xmas, Rick




playing with fire if your a/f is 13.8 on the spray... i see melted pistons and burnt valves at the least in your future. why if your on the dyno did you not change the a/f while you were on there. I hope you dont have a tuner that thinks 13.8 is good on the hose..

The change from 13 to 13.8 was on the first pull on the dyno.

The first pull was the only one I could remember the change on. It was a very long time and a lot of mods ago.

I have not left it at 13.8

I was just posting some info, I'm not advising of tune.

I read from schnitz that if the AIT gives too low a temp the ecu will run a base setting. It thinks the AIT broke and will run less gas.

I read from schnitz that if the AIT gives too low a temp the ecu will run a base setting. It thinks the AIT broke and will run less gas.



The ECU will run ......open loop mode, and will run richer
The fuel injection amount is controlled to achieve a specific air-fuel ratio (A/F) in the cylinders. During normal engine operation, the target A/F is near 14.7 (a stoichiometric mixture that ideally completely combusts all the carbon, hydrogen, and sulfur in the fuel) when the ECM is operating in closed loop (or feedback) mode. When the ECM operates in open loop mode and engine power is more important than fuel economy or emissions, the target A/F is less than 14.7, called "rich", usually in the 11.5 to 13.2 range.

http://www.schnitzracing.com/forum/displ...;PagePosition=8 (http://www.schnitzracing.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=13&TopicID=157&P agePosition=8)

"Well, if you did hurt a piston, its the first I have heard of a faliure with only adding 40 horsepower.

If you were out racing in 43 degree weather, and used a dry shot without adding a lot of fuel, I could see the bike going lean. This is because you already have the intake temp. sensor really cold due to the cold weather, plus the addition of the nitrous will make it really, really cold. This may have cause the sensor to get so cold that the ECM thought the senser had failed and went to a base map. (which would really lean the bike out)

Ry--"


It's for a Busa, but I bet the ecu is closely related in how it deals with this situation.

You should talk to a pro before you get your engine killed, but it's your bike so I really don't care.

You should talk to a pro before you get your engine killed, but it's your bike so I really don't care.



Great way to stay positive for someone http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/disappointed.gif

Just stating what open loop mode does and how it triggers
ECU, to run rich whenever it senses a faulty sensor.
There's no way i would run without a PC or MPS, etc
to supply the extra fuel.

I looked at Ryan's post, and I dont agree with it, if the bikes ECU is going to thinks that sensors have failed its going to fall into what is called "fault mode" where the computer runs BASE settings, but in the case of fuel, it will be rich not lean.... the computer will try to save the engine from internal problems, you are going to encounter more problems with a lean engine, rather than rich engine, therefore the cycles will go rich.... Not lean....

But I do agree that once the IAT gets so cold that the ECU thinks it has failed, then it will resort back to a Richened base map, but it will be leaner than the reading a properly functioning IAT at a cold Temp.

Hope you catch my drift.