Why doesn't DynoJet or any of the other manufacturers have the option to remove the speed limiter for their particular EM parts. ANY aftermarket computer for a car has the option for this, but it seems the ones in the motorcycle industry rip us off by only letting us do the air/fuel curve. Is there some reason that this ECU cannot be "remapped" or are the manufacturers just being lazy and not giving us this option? I'm not trying to offend any of the manufacturers that may review this forum, but just wonder why I feel like I'm getting ripped off since my goal is top speed.

Before anyone says to buy the TRE's that are offered all over the place, I'll answer why. Because I can't get a straight answer on whether or not they work. My goal is top speed and the current options are debateable and could possibly make me lose some on the top-end. I could care less about the lower gears (more than fine for me), I just need the limiter removed. If anyone can point me to a difference source for engine management (true management... not vendor made maps), that would be awesome.

A T.R.E. will allow the bike to run free on the big end.
If cost is no object,then buy a Race only ECU from Yosh and have at it

OldGixxer;
What octain are you running???
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Had to ask, Thanks

on the street,pump gas,at the track U4 or MR9,MR0X1

He's right , just get the Yoshi ECU

I'm not going into the "limiter" / TRE crap agian.

Or if you have more money than you know what to do with get the Bazzaz ECU

DaveO on the hayabusa board can extend your ECU for $200 with a three day turn around..I'm not sure if it removes the limiter or not. You would have to ask him yourself..But on the 01-04 gsxr1000 he moves the redline from 12,250 to 12,900 rpms. This would also help you out for top end speed. I do know the TRE does work and removes that 5,000rpm soft limiter as I have hit the hard limiter in 6th gear. But I also made my own tre and it's not the store bought one.
If you go moving the redline I would really think about going with heavy duty valve springs..
Just my 2 cents!

and rods....especially on a Busa

busa rods are fine...There is alot of guys running 1397 over on stock rods...

Yeah,&I'm one of 'em...
The rod bearings are the first to go when you bump the rev limit on a 1397 Busa.thats the weak link.
I could've raised my rev limit,but you drop reliability&engine longevity very rapidly if you frequent past the stock limit....
Straight from Bob Carpenter's mouth as he handed me the keys to my freshly done 1397 as I asked about doing it.
He said not to.....I'll take his word for it as he knows just a lil bit about building engines http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Why extend the rev limit on these? I've just put a 1400 together with billet cams this week and its peaking power well before the rev limit with the clutch switch disabled. Revving higher would only stress the bottom end more and gain nothing.

there are afew guys here that have 1397 and have been racing them for years and Never had a problem with rods or bearings...Pat runs 8.9s all day long and has been doing it for about 3 years. he has the ext. rev.
there is anothe friend with a 1397 and he is spraying 80hp wet on stock rods. It's been runing fine for to years now. He doesn't drag race much. but anyway.
Bob is a great guy and if he is saying that, then I would take his word on it. But I have not heard about rod problems on a busa. And there are a shit load of them big bores out there that are running stock rods.
And Tim, the reason they exten the rev on the busas is that when you shift they really drop in rpms..I think its like around 2,500rpms. Where the 1000 only drops arounds 1,500 rpms. So for drag racing and to keep it in the peek HP rpms, you may need to extend the rev.. It's not really a power kind of thing.

Fair enough, that makes sense. Are these 1397 big bores? My 1400 is stroked and i don't want higher revs due to the piston speed.

1397 is +3mm over bore on a busa..The rev isn't extended much. I don't remember what the stock red line is on a busa. I'm thinking that they are only extending the rev by about 500 rpms or so. Maybe alittle more...But it's not like 1,500 rpms.

I hear what yer sayin GIXXER..I have 12k on my Busa and no problems yet.6000 of those miles have been with a 1397.....
The dyno sheet for my bike pulls cleanly&uphill to redline,so I asked Carpenter if extending the redline is worth it.He said if you dont mind replacing rod bearings once a season then I could benefit from bumping it 500rpm.Its my daily driver,so I opted not to.....
Thats not saying that with a 35mm Ti head you wouldnt benefit from increasing redline,but then thats not really a daily driver..

My original post should have read"rod bearings" not "rods" as that is what I meant to say....
Low oil pressure at low rpms is the problem if I understand correctly
Time to call Jay&order the hi-volume oil pump gear.Had to do the same thing with my old 1425cc GS1150

So what kind of power is your Carpenter busa motor putting out? I should have had them do my 1000 head as I like the idea of a CNC'ed head...Why didn't you have them do your 1000?

The Busa is putting down just under 230rwhp....
Since i already had a Carpenter bike,I decided to give Lee a shout&see what he had to offer.......

The Busa is putting down just under 230rwhp....
Since i already had a Carpenter bike,I decided to give Lee a shout&see what he had to offer.......



nice!!

What spec is the busa? Obviously headwork, but what cams. Are you guys having any leakage issues with that size overbore? I've had a few motors apart for a refresh recently that another tuner has put together and all are showing leakage between the cylinders. That and the worry of liner flex in the car its going in is why i've gone only long stroke.

it has 3mm over JE pistons,14.5:1CR,cams are .450 lift,stock valves,stock bottem end.
Tim,click on
www.carpenterracing.com (http://www.carpenterracing.com)
and poke around a bit under hayabusa packages..

I'm actually going to upgrade to bigger valves&more headwork.
It's a $1400 upgrade on one of his packages....

I haven't had ANY problems&the bike runs like a raped date.It's a FAST ass streetbike http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

What spec is the busa? Obviously headwork, but what cams. Are you guys having any leakage issues with that size overbore? I've had a few motors apart for a refresh recently that another tuner has put together and all are showing leakage between the cylinders. That and the worry of liner flex in the car its going in is why i've gone only long stroke.



Tim, the 1397 is one of the most popular big bores out there. There are alot of 1397 and alot of people run them on the street with no problems day in day out. Most would say more reliable then a stroke...Maybe the problem your having is from the maker of the head gasket..I know on my 1070 gsxr, I had a problem with the comedic gasket leaking between the cyclinders. I called KSW about it, and they sell a stock OEM head gasket the they have stamped +3mm bigger for the big bore. I put it on and never had any more problems with leakage. This is just a thought!

You could be right on this because the other tuning shop use cometic, which are more commonly known by the rest of us as "pathetic" http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

+1 on what GIXXER said...both my 1397&1070 have a modified OEM gasket.
The only Cometic gasket I use was a copper one for my old 1425cc GS11550.It was a must,as the head&block were O-ringed.Plus,all you have to do to re-use it is anneal it in the oven http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

I thought Lee use comedic? Thats where I got mine from..Had to go with KWS to get the OEM one.

No,on my 1070,he used a modified OEM headgasket
I asked about it vs. a Cometic.He said OEM was much better for it's intended purpose

No,on my 1070,he used a modified OEM headgasket
I asked about it vs. a Cometic.He said OEM was much better for it's intended purpose



Thats funny because when I orderd my piston and rods from Lee's, I also orderd the head gasket too and got a comedic, but then this was a year and half ago too.

I'm glad to see he switched and that OEM is way better gasket. You just have to makes sure you take it apart and debure it around the cylinder cutouts where it was stamped bigger with a stone before you put it on.