IM CHANGING OUT MY HEAD GASKET TO A THINNER ONE FROM YOSHIMURA.
IS THERE ANYTHING TO WATCHOUT FOR BEFORE ATTEMPING OR DURING THIS PROCESS. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD CHANGE OUT.



http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/NOSMYASS19.JPG

http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/ROWELLS_SHOW_BIKE5.JPG

well first off this is just my opinion but i do not like the thinner head gasket mod. it just puts the clearances way to close. if you do do it. make sure once you get the cams in that you turn the motor over by hand (you should be doing this anyways to recheck the timing and cam marks). also make sure u have a manual and do it by the book. another thing make sure you use a magnet to pull the little ball out that is in the cam chain tensioner side. dont lose it. get some suzuki bond and take it slow.be sure you dont drop any of the tappets out when you pull the head off. its a pretty easy job. should take you about 5 hours im guessing. takes me a few. also make sure you clean the gasket surface really well. if you have any questions pm me i have taken the head off my bike alot.

brent

You won't have a clearance issue on the 750. There is well over 0.5mm extra space and the head gasket is only 0.1mm thinner. If you were skimming a load off the head at the same time then do as boost suggests.

there will be ok for the clearance but everything in that motor is so tight as it is i just dont like making it any tighter. let me know if you need help

brent

ILL KEEP YOU POSTED AND ILL LIT YOU KNOW IF I NEED ANYMORE INFO. DO YOU THINK DROPING OUT THE MOTOR TO WORK ON IT WOULD BE BETTER OR WOULD IT BE POSIBLE TO TAKE IT APART WHILE ITS STILL IN THE FRAME. I KNOW IT COULD BE DONE BOTH WAYS. I WAS THINKING TO PULL OUT THE MOTOR. OR IS IT STILL OKAY TO DO IT THE OTHER WAY (WITHOUT REMOVING THE MOTOR FROM THE BIKE)

THANKS FOR ALL THE POINTERS
ROWELL

It can be done in frame but its not easy. 2 main problems are: 1) undoing the bolt that stops cam chain from dropping. 2) seeing the markings on the cams to put it back together.
Just remember also that changing the head gasket will also knock the stock cam timing out ever so slightly unless you have adjustable sprockets. Don't worry too much, it may even work better.

to me doing it in the bike is the way to go. there is no need to pull the motor. i have no problem getting to the bolt that keeps the cam chain from droping. also as far as lining up the cams. very easy. get a manual and follow it. exhaust goes. 1 level with the gasket surface 2 straight up. intake. 3 stright up. 14 pins from exhaust 2 to intake 3. first pin starts on a link 14 pin end on a link. if you dont know what i just said u will see it in the manual once u look at the pics. also remember to rotate the motor over a few times by hand and re-check

brent http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/punk.gif

IM CHANGING OUT MY HEAD GASKET TO A THINNER ONE FROM YOSHIMURA.
IS THERE ANYTHING TO WATCHOUT FOR BEFORE ATTEMPING OR DURING THIS PROCESS. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD CHANGE OUT.




http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/ROWELLS_SHOW_BIKE5.JPG



Im no einstein, but you have that bike on a stand, the motor running and in gear, the rear wheel is Spinning.... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/SmackBottom.gif

i noticed that as well but im keeping my comments to my self. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Do the 1000 cam swap. It's suppost to be good for anywhere from 8-16hp. I've got a set in the garage if you want some.

You mean 4-7rwhp.

No, I mean 8-16. I can't speak from experience, I decided to sell my bike for a 1000 instead of putting the extra cash in mine, but I did alot of research about it and have seen the results. I'm not trying to argue, if you think it's bogus, talk to gixxerthekid. Here (http://www.gixxer.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1688554&page=4&fpart=4&v c=1) is some proof. Scroll down about half way. Any way you look at it, if your gonna pull the head, you might as well put in the the extra 200 bucks and score the extra HP, 4-7 or 8-16!

No, I mean 8-16. I can't speak from experience, I decided to sell my bike for a 1000 instead of putting the extra cash in mine, but I did alot of research about it and have seen the results. I'm not trying to argue, if you think it's bogus, talk to gixxerthekid. Here (http://www.gixxer.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1688554&page=4&fpart=4&v c=1) is some proof. Scroll down about half way. Any way you look at it, if your gonna pull the head, you might as well put in the the extra 200 bucks and score the extra HP, 4-7 or 8-16!



Interesting.... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

YES I DID A NO NO... PUTTING MYBIKE ON A STAND AND RUNNING IT. I DID THAT JUST TO LUBE THE CHAIN. SORRY WONT DO IT AGAIN. I WAS WORKING ON IT FOR THE SHOW THAT SAME DAY. WAS RUNNING BEHIND TIME. BUT IT TOOK IT.

BY CHANGING THE GASKET IT SHOULD GIVE IT AN EXTRA HOW MANY HP?????
WHAT OTHER ADD ONS COULD I DO???
IVE GOT A POWER COMMANDER, I GOT A FULL TITANIUM YOSHI TRI OVAL DUAL TIP COMMING IN, BMC AIR FILTER, TRE, FRONT AND REAR SPROCKETS 1 DOWN IN FRONT ONE UP IN THE REAR SPROCKET 520 CONVERTION. IM GOING TO ALSO SWITCH TO A THINNER WEIGHT OIL.

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP
THIS SITE KICKS ASS. GIXXERS ALL THE WAY BABY....

Give it up, Rowie...no matter what you do to that 750...you'll always be seeing my 1ks taillights. ;-)

Just kidding, homey, the bike is looking awesome. I was thinking of getting a Power Commander also, but what dyno are you planning to put it on to tune it? Last time I checked, we didn't have one out here on Guam anywhere. You gonna just run a generic off-the-net map? Do you think it would be better than not having the PC at all?

Oh yeah, and turn off your damn CAPS LOCK. On the 'net, CAPS LOCK is reserved for yelling.

*Dan

A friend of mine lost 2 fingers buy running the bike and lube the chain. He was cleaning it with a rag, chain suck the rag and chopped the fingers right off.

Mill head .015". Mill cylinders .015". Use stock head gasket. 1000 cams degreed at 106 IN/ 105.5 EX on VP U4 fuel = 137 HP. +2 degree timing advancer on the engine cases. Proven set up http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

just curious, but why is that bad to have the wheel spinning?

well the reason its not a good idea is because the bike is on a stand the rear wheel is spining and it could come off the stand and take off. also if your cleaning you chain your rag could get caught in it and suck your hand in and then you will lose a few fingers . there are many other reasons but these are the 2 i see happen.

oooooooooh now i see ok thanks

Also, if you were kneeling by the rear of the bike jacking off to the latest centrefold in the bike mag, then your dick could get caught in the chain and chopped off.
Running motorcycles, paddock stands and jerking off should never be mixed my mother always used to say.

I'm looking at can't find that gasket anywhere? Where is the cheapest place to get one?

When I rebuilt the top end of my '98 750 I left out the base gasket (unfortunately not possible on the '00+ models) and split the head gasket leaving out the centre leaf.
From memory I think this dropped the deck by 0.95mm so I had to drill the top frame mounts eccentrically to be able to get the bolts through.
While it still runs fine on 91 RON it definately prefers 95 or 98 RON.
Can't comment on the power really since I had 60,000kms on it and had to replace the rings after tossing the bike into the sand trap and riding it back to the pits - big no no, wait for the truck and check the airbox every time before starting the engine - but it was a _very_ noticeable improvement. The engine runs 8-10 degrees celcius hotter though at around 85C.
With 60,000kms on the camchain I didn't worry about making slotted sprockets and carriers and it certainly hasn't been a problem. As for setting up the cams I simply used a mirror. I also dumped the tensioner and made one out a piece of 8mm alloy plate and an 8mm SS bolt with two locknuts. I cut a piece of 12mm alloy rod and drilled an 8mm hole about 20mm into it, dropped an 8mm bearing inside it, rounded the end and this sits against the guide with the bolt inside against the bearing. A few months after I did this a mate's '97 600 lunched the tensioner (race and road bike with 90,000kms and 20,000kms+ between oil changes!) bending two intake valves so the manual tensioner is well worth the peace of mind. It only took about an hour to make and cost a couple of bucks for the bolt.