I finally got my engine back together, It started as a 1990 1127 then I added a Wiseco 1216 12-1 piston kit and had my head ported and flowed by RPE. It feels really good with ample torque every where.

1990 1127, Ported and flowed 1990 head, Stock cams set at 105 intake and 105 exhaust. RS 36 Flatslides, Yosh Duplex Exhaust.

Run 2 was the best run with my K&N's on it, Runs 4 and 5 are with out the K&N's and no other changes. I think that the K&N's are restricting me a bit.

http://www.gixxer.com/uploads/DSCF0006smaller.jpg

Anyone with stock cams and this setup, where do you have you cams timed at and what kind of results do you have?

I think there is a couple more HP in there, I set the motor up loose because I mainly street ride so I don't want any reliability problems. The piston to head clearence (squish) is set at .052". If I cared to mill the block down some more I could find some more power but I don't want to ping anymore than I already do.

Comments suggestions?

John

Holy shit, that bitch needs tuned.

Holy shit, that bitch needs tuned.



Here is carb setup:

Mikuni RS 36 Flatslides
127.5 Main jet
Accelerator pump set at approximately 1/4 turn
9DZH05 needles set at 3rd clip down
Needle Jet P-4
Pilot jet 17.5
Pilot screws set at 1/8th turn out.

So what do I need to change with Flat slide Carbs?

John

Take the following advice with appropriate "from the internet" skepticism.
1. Go someplace other than a Harley shop to tune, preferably someplace with a load-controlling (eddy current) dyno, even more preferably one with a load controlling dyno that can actually accurately control the load - like a Factory Pro. There's one in Independence, MO at Mid America Powersports. I've never seen these guys in action, but I've seen Factory Pro dynos in action and the thing is phenominal in it's ability to control RPM while very rapidly analyzing your exhaust gasses with the 4 gas (CO, CO2, O2, and HC) analyzer. It will tell you not only where your jetting is off, but by how much. So if you show up there with maybe two main jet sizes in either direction you'll probably be in the park. He may have the jets in stock himself saving you buying and returning the wrong ones. Your needles appear to be very rich based on the number you provided. That may or may not be a problem. You can solve driveability problems as the engine transitions off the pilot system and onto the needle by varying the base diameter and taper severity of the needles - which adds tunability AND complexity. Once you've got the main jet giving you best power on top and the needle giving you a nice transition, you can mess with the pilot system for best idle and 1/8th throttle cruising smoothness. This assumes you've got the fuel level set correctly going in and the fuel screws set to give the bike the highest/smoothest idle with the idle adjuster slacked all the way off. Those two things you should ensure are done before you go to the dyno.

In the big picture, 36s are pretty small for your motor, but may suit your intended purpose for the bike perfectly if you're looking for mondo around-town torque even if it costs a few horses on the very top. Good stuff. After your carbs are sorted out, the tuner can advise you on your cam timing to jibe with your intentions.

Again I have no connection to this shop in Independance, but the dyno itself is the bomb. (816) 554-1766. More tuning info under the product support tab at factorypro.com.