Admin
05-01-2001, 05:12 PM
Chasis and Control Lubrication
The lubrication of chassis components is an important part of a motorcycle's maintenance schedule. Lack of proper cleaning and lubrication will result in a gradual decrease in performance, shortened component life, and, in some cases, catastrophic failure. Starting with the upper controls, note the proper cable routing, then remove the cables and place one end of the cable in a drain-pan. Place the spray-tube tip of a can of contact cleaner or brake cleaner in the gap between the cable's outer casing and inner wire. Squirt the cleaner into the cable until it runs out the bottom and then take the cable wire and slide it back and forth repeatedly for a few seconds. Repeat this process three or four times or until the cleaner running out of the cable turns clear; allow time for the cable to dry.
Lubricate the cable with a product like Dri-Slide or Tri-flow, using the method above. Upon cleaning and lubricating the remaining cables, you may now install them. Be careful to ensure proper cable routing before continuing. Mistakes here can have tragic results. After completing any of these operations, always double-check your work by starting the engine and turning the bars lock-to-lock, checking to make sure the engine idle does not rise due to the throttle cable being stretched and tightened.
Throttle lubrication requires removing the throttle tube from its housing and sliding it off the handlebar. Clean the handlebar with a rag soaked with contact or brake cleaner. Use the same rag to clean the inside of the throttle tube, but don't overexpose the plastic throttle tube to harsh cleaners. Now take you favorite brand of slime in a tube (known as bearing grease) and lightly coat the handlebar, then slide the cleaned throttle tube back onto the handlebar. If your throttle has any internal pivot points, guides or gear assemblies, clean and lubricate them using the same process. Remember to check the throttle-cable free play lock-to-lock, with the motor running, before riding away.
To lubricate the lever assemblies, remove the pivot pins and levers from their perches. Using your cleaner-soaked rag, clean the levers, pivot pins and perches, making sure the pivot pins turn freely in their respective levers before continuing. Lubricate the contact surfaces on the pins, levers and perches with grease and reassemble. A high-quality, high-pressure grease is available from a variety of makers such as Redline, Motul and Pennzoil, to name a few. Check for proper cable routing and adjustment lock-to-lock before moving to the lower controls. While you're at it, squirt a little moisture-displacing lubricant into the switch-gear assemblies.
The lower controls, which consist of the rear brake pedal and shift-lever assemblies, drum-brake actuating arm, and possible the brake stay arm, round out the list of control components requiring lubrication. The lower control assemblies must be removed and disassembled to perform the cleaning and lubrication process. Once again, double-check for tightness and proper adjustment before dropping the clutch.
The chassis contains ball-, needle- and roller-bearings of varying types and sizes that need lubrication as well. These bearings are found in the steering head, swingarm, wheel and shock linkages. While cleaning and lubricating the bearings is not difficult, getting to the component in which they are located can be. Consult your service manual to determine your ability to perform the tasks necessary to access these components. In most cases, the bearings will not need to be removed from these components to perform the cleaning and lubrication process. This process should be performed every 10,000 miles, the exception being sealed bearings, which cannot be serviced.
Clean all dirt and old lubricant from the bearing with solvent. If the bearing does not come clean easily, compressed air can help. Resist the temptation of spinning the bearing with the compressed air as this can damage the dry bearing. Force or pack grease in between the bearing races, and while rotating the bearing slowly with your fingers, continue adding and packing grease until the bearing will no longer accept the grease. Be sure to fill the end gap completely with grease as this will protect the bearing from dirt and corrosion.
Non-O-ring final-drive chains need more frequent attention than any other part of the motorcycle, yet are usually the most neglected component. The correct method of chain lubrication begins with a visual inspection. Check the sprocket condition, master-link clip and adjust the slack to manufacturer's recommendation. Wipe off the heavy deposits of dirt on the chain with a rag, being careful not to get your fingers or the rag caught between the chain and sprocket in the process. If the chain is extra dirty, use a light moisture-displacing lubricant on your rag as a cleaner, be cautious with cleaners on O-ring chains to avoid damage to the rubber O-rings. The only care an O-ring chain needs is a periodic light cleaning with a moisture-displacing lubricant to ward off rust because the factory lubricant is located inside the O-rings.
Grab your favorite brand of chain lube (check the label and never use non-O-ring lube on an O-ring chain); aim the lube between the link plates on the inside of the non-O-ring chain and slowly squirt enough lube to just wet the chain, not soak it. Applying the lube on the inside of the chain allows the centrifugal force placed on the chain during operation to push the lube through the chain. Finally, wipe the excess chain lube off with a rag.
The two components rarely considered for lubrication are the wheel axles. The axles should be cleaned with a wire brush or very light sandpaper, and then wiped clean with contact cleaner or brake cleaner; lightly grease the axles before reinstallation. This lubrication should be performed at ever tire change because axles are very prone to corrosion.
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The lubrication of chassis components is an important part of a motorcycle's maintenance schedule. Lack of proper cleaning and lubrication will result in a gradual decrease in performance, shortened component life, and, in some cases, catastrophic failure. Starting with the upper controls, note the proper cable routing, then remove the cables and place one end of the cable in a drain-pan. Place the spray-tube tip of a can of contact cleaner or brake cleaner in the gap between the cable's outer casing and inner wire. Squirt the cleaner into the cable until it runs out the bottom and then take the cable wire and slide it back and forth repeatedly for a few seconds. Repeat this process three or four times or until the cleaner running out of the cable turns clear; allow time for the cable to dry.
Lubricate the cable with a product like Dri-Slide or Tri-flow, using the method above. Upon cleaning and lubricating the remaining cables, you may now install them. Be careful to ensure proper cable routing before continuing. Mistakes here can have tragic results. After completing any of these operations, always double-check your work by starting the engine and turning the bars lock-to-lock, checking to make sure the engine idle does not rise due to the throttle cable being stretched and tightened.
Throttle lubrication requires removing the throttle tube from its housing and sliding it off the handlebar. Clean the handlebar with a rag soaked with contact or brake cleaner. Use the same rag to clean the inside of the throttle tube, but don't overexpose the plastic throttle tube to harsh cleaners. Now take you favorite brand of slime in a tube (known as bearing grease) and lightly coat the handlebar, then slide the cleaned throttle tube back onto the handlebar. If your throttle has any internal pivot points, guides or gear assemblies, clean and lubricate them using the same process. Remember to check the throttle-cable free play lock-to-lock, with the motor running, before riding away.
To lubricate the lever assemblies, remove the pivot pins and levers from their perches. Using your cleaner-soaked rag, clean the levers, pivot pins and perches, making sure the pivot pins turn freely in their respective levers before continuing. Lubricate the contact surfaces on the pins, levers and perches with grease and reassemble. A high-quality, high-pressure grease is available from a variety of makers such as Redline, Motul and Pennzoil, to name a few. Check for proper cable routing and adjustment lock-to-lock before moving to the lower controls. While you're at it, squirt a little moisture-displacing lubricant into the switch-gear assemblies.
The lower controls, which consist of the rear brake pedal and shift-lever assemblies, drum-brake actuating arm, and possible the brake stay arm, round out the list of control components requiring lubrication. The lower control assemblies must be removed and disassembled to perform the cleaning and lubrication process. Once again, double-check for tightness and proper adjustment before dropping the clutch.
The chassis contains ball-, needle- and roller-bearings of varying types and sizes that need lubrication as well. These bearings are found in the steering head, swingarm, wheel and shock linkages. While cleaning and lubricating the bearings is not difficult, getting to the component in which they are located can be. Consult your service manual to determine your ability to perform the tasks necessary to access these components. In most cases, the bearings will not need to be removed from these components to perform the cleaning and lubrication process. This process should be performed every 10,000 miles, the exception being sealed bearings, which cannot be serviced.
Clean all dirt and old lubricant from the bearing with solvent. If the bearing does not come clean easily, compressed air can help. Resist the temptation of spinning the bearing with the compressed air as this can damage the dry bearing. Force or pack grease in between the bearing races, and while rotating the bearing slowly with your fingers, continue adding and packing grease until the bearing will no longer accept the grease. Be sure to fill the end gap completely with grease as this will protect the bearing from dirt and corrosion.
Non-O-ring final-drive chains need more frequent attention than any other part of the motorcycle, yet are usually the most neglected component. The correct method of chain lubrication begins with a visual inspection. Check the sprocket condition, master-link clip and adjust the slack to manufacturer's recommendation. Wipe off the heavy deposits of dirt on the chain with a rag, being careful not to get your fingers or the rag caught between the chain and sprocket in the process. If the chain is extra dirty, use a light moisture-displacing lubricant on your rag as a cleaner, be cautious with cleaners on O-ring chains to avoid damage to the rubber O-rings. The only care an O-ring chain needs is a periodic light cleaning with a moisture-displacing lubricant to ward off rust because the factory lubricant is located inside the O-rings.
Grab your favorite brand of chain lube (check the label and never use non-O-ring lube on an O-ring chain); aim the lube between the link plates on the inside of the non-O-ring chain and slowly squirt enough lube to just wet the chain, not soak it. Applying the lube on the inside of the chain allows the centrifugal force placed on the chain during operation to push the lube through the chain. Finally, wipe the excess chain lube off with a rag.
The two components rarely considered for lubrication are the wheel axles. The axles should be cleaned with a wire brush or very light sandpaper, and then wiped clean with contact cleaner or brake cleaner; lightly grease the axles before reinstallation. This lubrication should be performed at ever tire change because axles are very prone to corrosion.
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