OK, the skinny on engine break-in(Long) [Archive] - Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com

: OK, the skinny on engine break-in(Long)


fun2fly
05-01-2002, 01:22 PM
I remember reading some threads on here about proper engine break-in and it seemed there was two schools of thought on this subjets with some grey area in between. So I started thinking of who I could write to for some information on this very topic. I surmised any of the motorcycle manufacturers would be reluctant to send me information so I thought of perhaps an aircraft engine manufacturer and chose Lycoming-Textron. I sent them an email and they responded with, "Try searching our page under BREAK-IN or OIL". I did this and came up with the following information, copied and pasted. I'll put my 0.031 cents CDN here before I paste the info. Seems like the guys that said running the engine on the side of hard is the way to go. This article opened my eyes wider about not bringing the revs to red-line but atleast put the engine under a good load and not baby it. I'd lean more towards that mototuneusa guy than what is in the manual. This information is straight from an engine manufacturer and although they are not motorcycles they have piston rings that need seating just like their two wheeled compadres. All flames welcome
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.html
Hard Facts About Engine Break-In

Most people seem to operate on the philosophy that they can best get their money’s worth from any mechanical device by treating it with great care. This is probably true, but in many cases it is necessary to interpret what great care really means. This is particularly applicable when considering the break-in of a modern, reciprocating aircraft engine. Aircraft owners frequently ask about the proper procedures for run-in of a new or rebuilt engine so they can carefully complete the required steps. Many of these recommended break-in procedures also apply to engines which have been overhauled or had a cylinder replaced.

The first careful consideration for engine run-in is the oil to be used. The latest revision of Textron Lycoming Service Instruction 1014 should be consulted for this information. The basic rule which applies to most normally aspirated Lycoming piston engines is simple; use straight mineral oil of the proper viscosity for the first fifty hours or until oil consumption stabilizes. Then switch to ashless dispersant (AD) oil.

The exceptions to the basic rule above are the O-320-H and the O/LO-360-E series. These engines may be operated using either straight mineral oil or ashless dispersant oil, however, if the engine is delivered with ashless dispersant oil installed, it must remain on ashless dispersant oil. The Textron Lycoming oil additive P/N LW-16702 must be added to the O-320-H and O/LO-360-E engines at airframe installation, and every 50 hours thereafter or at every oil change. An FAA-approved lubricating oil that contains, in the proper amount, an oil additive equivalent to LW-16702 will meet the requirements for the additive as stated in Lycoming Service Instruction No. 1014M.

All Lycoming turbocharged engines must be broken in with ashless dispersant oil only.

When taking delivery of a new aircraft, there is another point which must be emphasized. Some aircraft manufacturers add approved preservative lubricating oil to protect new engines from rust and corrosion at the time the aircraft leaves the factory. This preservative oil must be removed by the end of the first 25 hours of operation.

Each new or rebuilt engine is given a production test run at the factory before the engine is delivered to an aircraft manufacturer or other customer. After installation in the aircraft, the engine is run again during the test flights. These test runs will insure that the engine is operating normally and will provide an opportunity to locate small oil leaks or other minor discrepancies. In addition, these test runs do the initial seating of the piston rings. The rest of the break-in is the responsibility of the pilot who flies the aircraft during the next 50 hours.

A new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine should receive the same start, warm-up, and preflight checks as any other engine. There are some aircraft owners and pilots who would prefer to use low power settings for cruise during the break-in period. This is not recommended. A good break-in requires that the piston rings expand sufficiently to seat with the cylinder walls during the engine break-in period. This seating of the ring with the cylinder wall will only occur when pressures inside the cylinder are great enough to cause expansion of the piston rings. Pressures in the cylinder only become great enough for a good break-in when power settings above 65% are used.

Full power for takeoff and climb during the break-in period is not harmful; it is beneficial, although engine temperatures should be monitored closely to insure that overheating does not occur. Cruise power settings above 65%, and preferably in the 70% to 75% of rated power range should be used to achieve a good engine break-in.

It should be remembered that if the new or rebuilt engine is normally aspirated (nonturbocharged), it will be necessary to cruise at the lower altitudes to obtain the required cruise power levels. Density altitudes in excess of 8000 feet (5000 feet is recommended) will not allow the engine to develop sufficient cruise power for a good break-in.

For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for high power settings during engine break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly known as glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.

To summarize, there are just a few items to remember about engine break-in: (1) If a preservative oil has been added by the aircraft manufacturer, drain it not later than the first 25 hours of operation; (2) Follow the engine manufacturers recommendation regarding the oil to be used for break-in and the period between changes; (3) Run the engine at high cruise power levels for best piston ring/cylinder wall mating; (4) Continue break in operation for 50 hours or until oil consumption stabilizes. These simple procedures should eliminate the possibility of cylinder wall glazing and should prepare the engine for a long and satisfactory service life.

[ 05-02-2002, 10:29 AM: Message edited by: Jon T. Flesh ]

Wolf1100L
05-01-2002, 03:05 PM
Thanks for the good info. I agree with it.
However it would be difficult to keep the new engine of a GSXR1000 in the 70-75% of max power range. I guess you would be doing 160mph at 75% of max power. In case the cops pull me over at that speed I'll refer them to your article. LOL!!!
It's a really good excuse for speeding. LOL!
"Sorry officer, I am running in my new motor. Have to follow instructions".
This is not a flame! Just a bit of fun! LOL!!!

05-01-2002, 05:08 PM
OK - Maybe I haven't thought this through - and it's true I'm just trying to find holes in this logic, but...

How does increasing the RPM of an engine increase the pressure conditions within each individual cylinder? It would seem to me to be the opposite. High-revving engines, especially engines like our inline-4s, make power by compressing as many power cycles into as little time as possible. The reduced time available during each intake stroke limits the amount of combustible air-fuel mixture entering each cylinder as RPM increases, but the sheer number of power cycles allows the engine to continue to increase HP (up to a point).

If anything, I think the pressure conditions in each cylinder would be optimized only at a very specific RPM, and not necessarily extremely high up in the powerband. This would be dictated by the very narrow 'optimally efficient' range inherent to cam-actuated valvetrains.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

[ 05-01-2002, 03:09 PM: Message edited by: leanangle_750 ]

02G6
05-01-2002, 06:01 PM
All I know is I was moderate (under 10K) for the first 100 miles and now I run the out of it. I changed the oil at 250 and there was a small amount of shavings on the drain bolt magnet. Exactly what I would expect.

It is important to remember that 100 miles is the equivalent of operating the bike at 50 mph for two straight hours at about 6K. If that won't break in your motor nothing will. 720,000 cycles of operation up and down the side of the bore should have some impact on the rings. I for one would be more concerned about the bearing surfaces at the piston and crankshaft.

I have always felt that the drastic break in recommendations for sportbikes has a lot more to do with liability than actual requirements for the engine.

JoshN
05-01-2002, 06:03 PM
At Motorcyclist we took a brand new GSX-R1000 to the track and the dragstrip during it's break in and it's just fine. Still dynos at 145hp, has about 2K miles on it now. Not a single problem.

mtmra70
05-01-2002, 07:44 PM
Originally posted by Josh Norem:
At Motorcyclist we took a brand new GSX-R1000 to the track and the dragstrip during it's break in and it's just fine. Still dynos at 145hp, has about 2K miles on it now. Not a single problem.<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">that is the info we need.

we need two of the same bikes to take both sides. one bike run it hard, the other, run it by the book. then keep dynoing them and see how they last over 10,000 plus miles. i would be curious how they differ in HP and how often one needs maintence vs the other

Gixxer King
05-01-2002, 09:37 PM
I have 2 buds with '02 750s,with exact same mods to each bike.1 broke his in easy,the other broke his in like above.The one who broke his in easy is slower,by 2 bikes.I didn't believe it 'till i got on his bike and raced my other bud.Same results,he beat me by 2 bikes.I've broke all my bikes in the same way,run them through several heat cycles,increasing the rpms through each cycle,than beat it.Never had a broblem and i've been doing this for 14yrs.I change the oil 3 times by 1000 mies,than every 1500-2000.Just my .02...

Leonardo629
05-01-2002, 10:52 PM
I always wonder about this...if you do the break-in procedures a tad harder than the manual's recommendation..you tend to end up a bike that's stronger...now...a stronger bikes must have the rings that are sealing better than a bike that's weaker....and people think if you do the break-in hard..you sacrafice reliability....

so I guess rings that are sealing better also mean less reliability...weird...

chris c
05-01-2002, 11:05 PM
Originally posted by Leonardo629:

so I guess rings that are sealing better also mean less reliability...weird...<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">doubt it...i mean there is a lot of perspectives and information but i myself have never see a true test of this...

can the bike that was broken in harder be less reliable because...

a) it's ridden harder all the time, much harder than the bike that was broken in easy

b) the maintenace done by the rider is less than adequate, or just less thorough that the maintenace do by the rider that broke the bike in easy

after i had ~100 miles on my bike i just began to get right on it...i'm a firm believer in varying rpms and NEVER getting on a cold engine. i did exceed the rpm limits set in the manual for each mileage integer though

[ 05-02-2002, 10:40 AM: Message edited by: Jon T. Flesh ]