Just wondering a good sprocket set up for a k5 , for dragracing.On my k1 i had -2 in the front just wondering if ther is somthing better Thanks.

What size bike is it, I had a 600 with -2 and it was to low. My 750 is stock gear, but I think -1 would be better.

Sorry its a k5 1000, first gear feels to tall hard to launch. so i figure -2 or -1 or.... -1+2. if anyone knows please post.

ky my 02 750 got to 10.71 @ 131 with -1/stock gearing, kn air filter, d&d slip on, pcIII(arrow map)

i ran a 10.88 @ 128 last fri night with stock gearing frt and rear

-1/+2 should be good, but your going to have to strap and or stretch your bike otherwise it will turn into a wheelie monster

I would probably try the -1/+2, I am thinking of trying that on my 750. I am also running 10.8 pretty consistant in a 1/4, but can't seem to get any lower. Going back to try again tonight, will try to post results tomorrow.

should never go - 2 on the front...it'll eat your chains....
-1/+2 is where you should start......

i went -1/+3 on a 2002 600 im pulling 11.23 @ 120 at 4000 ft but i do wish i went with -1/+2 to give me a little more top end

I have on 03 gsxr 600 lowered 1 " both front and back and when i got to the track last night i strapped it for one run. I missed second but still made my fastest pass on all motor with a 11.014. Still looking to get into the 10 seconds before i spray it.

budlight, how do you like the wide band commander, can you give any feedback on it likes dislikes. and is it the wideband or the lm-1 you have?

Well anything that can tell you your exact A/F ratio is a wideband. I just purchase the Innovate motorsports LM-1 wideband. I am happy with it, except there are a few things i had to work around. The firmware for the actuall datalogger is still in development. The amount of oxegen in the air each day is different and there is a calibration button the LM-1 datalogger that sets like a basepoint to compare you readings too each day if you decide to calibrate the meter each day. Well the version of firmware that is out, is junk. Hopefully when they get the new firmware it will work alot better.

If i were you , i would check into the dynojet wideband commander. Comes with a gauge (mine didn't) and if you have a power commander i think in the future there might be some software to kinda "program" the power commander with some simple plug and play software to be able to make your own fuel map without putting it on a dyno.

I am currently making a fuel map for my bike but i have to guess as what to put into the PC map to ajust acording to my A/F readings from the LM-1. I'm getting it down though, i figured that if you change the values in the Power commander by 3 so for example if you change an 8 to an 11 you A/F ratio would go from 13:1 to 12:1 (this is just an example) I have noticed a big difference in the way my bike rides but the 450 dollars for the wideband might not justify its gains.

I bought it so i could run a bigger shot of NOS and not have to worry about going lean.

I expect to make at least a 10.90's run maybe high 10.90's before i spray it. My fastest pass last year without NOS just all motor was 11.26 and i haven't ran any slower than that the first 3 times out this year so i already demolished my fastest pass from last year. Last year on the 20 shot of NOS (bike wasn't tuned either) i ran 10.67 at 136mph stock gearing not lowered or strapped. so this year it will be tuned, lowered, strapped and 10 more HP from the NOS, i wanna go low 10's maybe 10.40's or lower if i can http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

Hope that helped,
Mike

YI-YI-YIKES!! 11s....on a 600?!? With gearing??? Skip spraying it....find out why the bike (or the rider) can't get into the 10.90s? A friend's badly beaten 01 ZX-6r with a crappily installed (previous owner) jet kit and a slip-on goes 10.80s all day.. Oh...I see....it's ONLY lowered 1"....put it on the pavement or don't lower it at all!
My 01 1000 with 1 tooth down front, 1 tooth down rear (swingarm notched for axle clearance-chain adjustment), lowered the full 3" with a front strap and Barnett clutch springs=9.70s all day....NO exhaust....NO slip-ons....NO powercommander. Coulda went high 9.60s but my clutches started to slip after about 20 passes in one night.
I agree on the NOT going -2 on the front. Alway down 1 and up in the rear for chain angle...remember you have an alignment guard that will wear in no time with -2 in the front. Brock says gear for 5th in the quarter. My current setup is -1 front and +2 in the rear on my 01 1000 and I'm near the top of 5th at the finish line.
Hope this helps!
Eric

times will be different at different tracks due to temperature, humidity, altitude, traction variances

I know this...maaannn! Last I checked, Ohio didn't have 3000ft mountains to create a 1/2 second loss of times from "weather changes". Traction shouldn't be a huge problem on ANY 600...the power isn't that nutty to blow the tire away on every holeshot. All I'm saying is one shouldn't look to Nitrous and emptying their pockets in the search of faster times, when the answer is already there. In order to achieve "drag race" timeslips, you can't halfass it. SLAM that bike and pull that strap! Leave 1-2" of front travel..wind the RPMs up to about 7 grand to start and ride that clutch...keep an eye on that 60ft time FIRST....then worry about the quarter times. 60ft is where the 600s shine for a small bike....don't expect it to make up for things on the topend if your holeshot is rough. Big bikes get smoked on the street by 600s cuz of the holeshot....then the big bikes start wheelyin to play catch-up! Too late! Good Luck!

I never said i was a professional, i just go to have fun and the NOS is really a "no one else has it" type of thing. Yes thats with stock gearing. My pipe is killing my low end. I'm about to put the stock pipe back on, hahaha.

For some reason the times at Norwalk Raceway aren't always the greatest. I have beaten alot of 1000's and 750's and the guys ask me what i'm riding and i tell them a 600 and they usually walk away.

Yes i know i need to work on my 60 foots, why do you think i haven't been spraying it yet this year. I'm still learning. Sorry i'm not as good as you or your friends, i just really go to hang out with all my other friends that drag race cars.

anyways i'm really consistent with my times which is a plus for the street E/T class. last 3 passes down the track were 11.025, 11.026, and 11.014 the last pass was with the strap and i launched so much harder than i ever have i didn't have enough time to get my foot back on the peg and under the lever. I'm going to try GP style of shifting next time so i don't run into that problem.

Instead of ripping on me could you give me some pointers on what to do to get off the line better. My bike bogs really bad at 7 grand so i launched last time at 10,000 and it helped alot. Thats why i'm trying to make a decent fuel map. And remember i just lowered it this year got the quick shifter, and only used the lowering strap one time. I'm learning some pointers would be nice http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thank you,
Mike

if you wanna be consistent run your bike the same way everytime. Strap and lower it as far as u can. I run the reversed shifting on my 03 1000 and love it. Working on 60 ft is essential i think. Thats why if your bike is setup the same way every pass..(might have to make a few minor changes) itll be easier to get use to it and be more consistent. Only work done to my bike is a ti-force slip on, strapped and lowered. Ive done 9.7 's....but im in montana. Sometimes the altitude here is 7000 ft so we dont make nearly the power you guys do. Plus its a fairly new track and temps are cold in the morning so traction sucks. Im not a expert or professional at drag racing so all i can tell u is what i do...might be diff from other people.

Wasn't meaning to rip.....just know how annoying it is to be "RIGHT THERE" for the 10s....but keeping it lowered only one inch is a waste. Stock gearing is killing it. Just did a before and after street launch (or 3) on an 02 600. First was bogging so bad...with stock gearing. Yesterday was the one tooth down front...BIG improvment!! But still not there. 1 tooth up is next....along with some Barnett springs...the stock clutch springs on ANY bike are too weak for racing. Send, at least, the $20 for the 1 tooth down front...the $20 for the springs....pull that strap for about an inch of front travel-don't bottom it out (you need a tad of lift for bumps)and keep the RPMs up over 7 grand as to keep it from coming off the power (bogging). Go around the water box and back into it a hair. Bump the clutch to get the tire wet and slowly roll out. Fire up the rear and do it in 2nd...NOT 1st. Proceed to roll the bike from left to right to get all the heat into it...then straight. After you straighten it up sit down on the bike so your weight gets on it for an even patch. All this will keep the wear to a minimum yet heat it up good. Try about 18psi to start. Ride out the burnout BUT give yourself enough room for a practice dry hop. Wind it up for a "feel" of your RPMs in the throttle...compensate as needed. ONLY doo a dry hop on the first couple of runs, as your clutches won't like you much after the heat gets built up. If you have a huge line to wait in, then dryhops are fine if there is a cooldown between trials. If you are having trouble pulling second, try a start with your left foot on and your right off. This worked for me and helped hold myself on the tank as well as making the second shift with the wheel hangin. I also had a habit of bumping the clutch instead of snappin the throttle....this netted me a tad better times, but bounced the rev limiter EVERY time...BAD. Get used to riding around town NOT using the clutch. I still use the clutch and throttle snap for my second gear ONLY shifts to be sure they go in and snap the throttle for the rest. Now I have an airshifter...YEA! Hope this helps
Eric
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That was a one tooth up REAR BTW!
Eric

Hey thanks a bunch!!! I'm going to go home today and drop the bike the rest of the way down. I need new clutch plates that could be why i'm not getting off the line very well. I got about 10,000 miles on my bike and i drag raced last year and probably beat the hell out of my clutches. Where can i order those springs? Do you think i will need new steel's or fibers or can i not tell unless i take it apart and look? My tire is brand new, i coudln't do a burn out last time with this new tire, although i didn't get it wet.

I have a bunch of new things to try today if i can make it to the track. Thanks fastturbo4, i appreciate all the help. I printed this out so i can look at it and kinda like study it. Hope i can get a 10.90 something pass. I would be estatic. I believe if i wouldn't have missed second gear on my 11.014 run i would have easily gotten into the 10.90's.

By the way i have a quick shifter, i just lift on the shift lever to shift, don't need to let off the trhottle or use the clutch. Smooth clutchless full throttle upshifts is what it acomplishes. If you would like to find out more check out powercommander.com and look at the quick shifter accesory.

Mike

Also when i lower the back down as far as it will go, do i need to adjust my compression and dampening settings? Should i set compression to fully hard and just adjust the rebound a little stiffer or leave it alone?

Thanks,
Mike

Lots of good info in this post...I also just started doing a lil racing myself...no 1/4 mile tracks near by got 1/8 mile though. Ran 6.8's stock height..no straps..stock swingarm. Oh i have an 03 1000. Anyways...have a full titanium Ti Force...750 stacks..K&N filter...PC III w/ quickshifter...TRE....and thats about it. Alot of bolt on stuff.....I think my times would be way ready if my launch was better...I know i have alot of work to do. Whats a good stretch for a swingarm...Ive heard people say anywhere from 4 to 10...10 seems a lil much...but i am new to this maybe im wrong...some1 lemme know please!!!! thx

I went to order the 600 springs and no one makes then...although Vesrah claims to make a Heavy Duty set....but can't say what the increase is (Barnett is usually 20%). I called Schnitz Racing and they don't make any. Although the 750 uses the same clutches, there are 2 more on the 750 over the 600 (be interesting to see if the 750 basket and clutches fit the 600 since they have the same cover). I'll let you know if these springs do the job. Brock says that discoloration is ok on the steels, but NOT on the fibers. I'm anal an replace all of the stuff for the peanuts they cost and what the gain is worth. Minimum, learn the PROPER primary clutch adjustment procedure so you can adjust them and NOT ruin them til they are ready. Basically it's screw in your handle adjuster. Go down and pull the plug off the cover by the front sprocket cover (I think you have to move the water bottle on the 600s-maybe not). Take a 10mm wrench or socket if it's hard to loosen. Loosen the nuts back a ways...then take a small regular and unscrew the adjuster. This is when you may feel a bit of tension-as to find out this is why your clutch is slipping. Unload the tension...now....lightly turn it back in til it starts to stiffin up....back it off again then lightly turn again. I do this to be sure of the adjustment...dirt...etc. Once you get the adjuster to start to get snug....back it out 1 full turn. I only do a 1/2 since I'll anally adjust mine everytime I go out or go to the track as it only takes a few seconds to do. Get the full turn out then take your 10mm wrench while holding the adjuster and lock it down. You DON'T have to He-man the lock-nut, just enough for next time. Now go up to you handlebar and unscrew the manual adjuster there til you have about 1/8" slack off the top. I prefer to have the bike "grab" at about 1" off the handlebar so I can feel for it on the line as well as know for sure the clutch is in and no creeping the bike around. You'll be amazed how much life you put into your clutches when you do this.
On the rear settings....I'd go in all the way and out 4 clicks to start, but my 1000 is stiffer than the 600...really you need to get the 60fts down first then if the tire starts to blow off then you can stiffen it up for traction. I don't mind losing my Spleen, so I cut my stock seat down to the plastic and recarpeted it so I sit about 2 inches lower, too. Plus my settings are stiff, but it works. My 60fts suck ass....1.50 is the Best I've got with my blocks...I have A LOT to learn over the stock wheelbase stuff. Hope this helps!
And if you are to stretch your 1000 (above), I have mine at the 5-6" over spot now...about 62"...I plan to go to the 64" MAX mark for the Super Street Prostar class. Trust me....at 5" over...this thing HOOOKS!! Cuz the 1000 suspension is great for drag. I used to be able to do stand-up wheelies with my bike lowered and 3" over, but NOT NOW!! Good for me as I'd like to keep my oilpan!!!
Eric
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