Well I just got the manual cam chain tensioner in today. Now what are the procedures for installing and adjusting the manual tensioner? It's on a 99 750.

Thanks.

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

Did you get the cam chain tensioner gasket Phin? You will need that.

I am pretty sure it is a bolt off bolt on type deal.The tensioner bolts should be tourqued to 7 ft lbs for my 98/600. There are plenty of guys who have them so I hope they respond for sure.

As for adjusting it you will need to idle the bike. Tighten that bolt very slowly until the cam chain clicking stops. I can't stress how slow to tighten that bolt though expecially with the manual tensioner. You totally do not want to overtighten it. The cam's will do very very very bad things if the chain is too tight.

Be sure and post a follow up for us all on the installation images/icons/smile.gif


jontflesh

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

If you want to remove the tank. It is much easier to get to the cam chain tensioner that way. You might want to have a stubby phillips head screwdriver around to stick into the fuel line to stop the gas from gushing out! If your not planning on using your STOCK tensioner again just remove the two bolts and pull it out. Next, install the new cam chain tensioner with the bolt turned 3/4 of the way OUT. Heres where some go wrong. Remove the right lower fairing and remove the two caps so you can turn over the motor. As you(or someone else) turns the motor over at least two full rotations you turn in the tensioner bolt til it gets resistance, then 3/4 to 1 full turn in. Lock the lock nut! Your done. Put everything back together start it up. If you still hear chattering turn bolt in, if it sounds like the gears are whining loosen it up 1/4 turn increments. Any other questions about it e-mail me sjdubs@prodigy.net

OK, thanks guys, no problem on the fuel tank removal... been there thanks to the fuel tank seal! Now is the tensioner behind the cam cover or is in a separate place?

I've got to run to the Suzuki shop and snag the gasket before I tear it apart. But I was under the impression the tensioner was under the cam chain cover, by the directions, but then later was thinking it was halfway down the engine under the gas tank.

Thanks, sorry to be so lost on this one. I haven't got to tear into the motor yet so I'm a little lost. I'll probably figure it all out after I get the bike apart.

One more thing do I need a gasket for both the cam chain tensioner and the cam cover.

Thanks guys!

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Phinsup:
Now is the tensioner behind the cam cover or is in a separate place?

I've got to run to the Suzuki shop and snag the gasket before I tear it apart. But I was under the impression the tensioner was under the cam chain cover, by the directions, but then later was thinking it was halfway down the engine under the gas tank.

Thanks, sorry to be so lost on this one. I haven't got to tear into the motor yet so I'm a little lost. I'll probably figure it all out after I get the bike apart.

One more thing do I need a gasket for both the cam chain tensioner and the cam cover.

Thanks guys!<hr></blockquote>

Phin look at your motor. Now half way down on the right side there is a little cylinder with a bolt or a screw in the middle of it. It has two mounting bolts on the side. That is the illusive tensioner. It's coming right at us better shoot it!
You do not need to pull your cam cover at all images/icons/smile.gif It is mounted on the outside of the engine.
What Gixxer 6 was talking about was taking off the crank cap so you can crank your engine by hand.

Let us know if there are more questions


jontflesh

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

Alright, here's the deal, I made it to the bike shop, they had the cam chain gasket. I then removed the old tensioner, it's fine and after getting new bolts, the ones removed were too small. Now I'm freaking on the adjustment, yout got me scared. Loose, I can hear the "diesel" noise, I tighten it about one full turn, noise goes away, I can tighten it a lot from there and nothing changes. So do I want this thing just tight enough to remove the "diesel" sound? I thightened for quite a few turns and didn't notice any gears whining, but I am being really carefull here.

Thanks for the help, I'm needing it!

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

OK, here's what I did, tell me if I'm off before ride the shite out of my bike in the morning! With the "diesel" sound going, I tightened it down until the sound went away, but could feel a slight vibration on the tensioner so I went one full turn past the point where the sound stopped, no whining of gears that I can hear. Did I go too much, or does that sound right?

Thanks,

I'll post the whole thing at a later date when I'm sure I got it down right. I want to make sure no one else has to run to the fuggin hardware store for shorter bolts, they can get them from the get go.

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

Wow! I got to hand it to you. You didnt even know where the damn tensioner was at before commiting yourself to this repair. Takes BALLS. Anyway, it sounds like you got it right. If the chain is loose it will sound clangy, but if it is too tight the motor will sound like it doesnt want to turn over. That would be extremely tight though. #6

Hey Phin

I will definetly be interested If you write it up step by step. E-mail it to me I am going to do it along with everything else on my plate when I get back. (PC2, K&N, Steel brakelines, New shoes (Pilots), Gel seat, and then after I am done with all of the mods I want to do I will buy a manual and see If I did them all correctly. images/icons/tongue.gif )

Here is a question will the TRE mod still be worth it if I install a PC 2?? Just curious if I would be wasting my time.

[ 07-05-2001: Message edited by: *MESS* ]

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

No the TRE mod won't work with the PC2.

Here's the step by step, let me know what you guys think, I'll stick it up on my website as well and we can possibly toss this into the FAQ section.

What you need:
1. Manual Cam Chain Tensioner from http://www.aperaceparts.com, cost $47.99
2. You will need 1" in long hex head bolts to replace the existing bolts, I'm working on the size of them, sorry.
3. Cam chain tensioner gasket.
4. High temp RTV

What you do:
1. Remove the drivers seat and tank screws, prop the tank up.
2. Locate the cam chain tensioner on the right side of the bike about half way up the motor, it can be identified by 1 bolt on top, one on bottom and a nut or cap screw in the middle of the tensioner. Remove the top bolt first as the bottom bolt is easier to get to and will be under some tension during the entire removal.
3. Inspect stock tensioner, make sure it hasn't been eaten by the motor or lost any mission critical pieces.
4. Take manual tensioner and apply very little RTV to both sides of gasket, adjust tensioner to about halfway of it's travel.
5. Install manual tensioner torque bolts to 7ft lbs.
6. Tighten the tensioner using back (stationary) nut until it contacts the cam chain.
7. Start the bike, tighten tensioner slowly until the "diesel" sound dissappears from the bike. Tighten approx 1/2 turn until vibration in tensioner dissappears. (the vibration is felt by putting your hand on the back of the tensioner).
8. Tighten forward nut tight so the tensioner doesn't back out and inspect tension every oil change.

You're set, no more sleepless nights worrying about you cam chain eating your bike!

Notes. If you tighten the tensioner too tight the engine will whine, long periods under this condition can cause pre-mature engine wear.

Please don't hesitate to let me know if I need to add something to this guys.

MESS I'll shoot this out to your e-mail as soon as it's polished and ready to roll.

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

Hey you guys I added this into the FAQ section of my web page: http://phinsup.gixxer.com/ click the FAQ link on the side bar. Also don't hesitate to e-mail me if you have any questions.

Oh yea the main reason for the post APE's part number is: ST750GX

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

I just put my manual tensioner in my bike it took 10 minutes.The bolts on mine worked just fine. To turn over the motor get the back wheel off the ground with a racestand, jack,etc. Put the bike in 5th and get someone to spin the wheel while you turn the tensioner in. This way saves time and is safe because you can feel and hear valve on piston action. My bike is so much quieter with the manual tensioner. If the tensioner is to loose while turning over by hand you can hear a little clicking sound.

is this manual cam chain tensioner an aboslute must??? I think my '99 is running pretty smooth..no noise, no nothing...any info?

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

It may not be a necessity, but in the long run it will probably be a money saver. If you wait until your tensioner fails you'll be out a lot more than the $50.00 tensioner and an hour of your day.

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

okay phinsup, thanks for the response, one more question though, you said the manual cam chain tensioner needs adjustment every 4000miles or every oil change, what will I be adjusting anyways???? Thanks

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

It's really easy, the tensioner has 2 nuts, a stationary nut and and the a moving nut at the base of the tensioner. Just give it a good sound check on the right side of the bike and put your hand on the tensioner, if you feel and vibration, then it needs to be tightened a little, back off the nut at the base of the tensioner, tigheten it 1/4 to 1/2 turn and re tighten the nut at the base so the tensioner doesn't back out and you're good to go for another 4k or so.

Real simple deal, you'll just have to prop up the tank to get access to the tensioner and that's it.

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

Thanks for the info. I was an aircraft mechanic for a number of years and I am a freakin slave to a maintanence manual even if I think I know what I'm doing, I am still waiting on one for the gixxer.

It was a pretty easy task once I got the right bolts. images/icons/smile.gif The thickness in the collars on the tensioners were totally different which left the bolts way too long.

Anyhow, thanks for putting my mind at ease, like I said before I kinda did it by feel and sound. When the "diesel" sound first went away it still had some vibration in the tensioner, about 1 turn more and the vibration went away, I figured that was good.

Thanks again, I'll do a step by step later this afternoon for anyone who is interested. I'm home sick today and unfortuantely I'm actuallyy sick so as soon as my head clears I'll get to it.

Thanks.

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by gixxersix:
Wow! I got to hand it to you. You didnt even know where the damn tensioner was at before commiting yourself to this repair. Takes BALLS. Anyway, it sounds like you got it right. If the chain is loose it will sound clangy, but if it is too tight the motor will sound like it doesnt want to turn over. That would be extremely tight though. #6<hr></blockquote>

lol when my first one went out and the mechainic in San Fran told me that my cam chain tensioner was out I was like the cam what? I know where you are at for sure Phin!

Gixxersix is right. When tightning the tensioner once that noise of the chain slapping the case like a five dollar whore goes away you are cool.
I don't know if you understand what the tensioner does but that bolt pushes on a plastic guide inside the case. That guide in turn takes the slack out of the cam chain. The cam chain runs from the cams on the top of your engine down to the crank at the bottom. This keeps your engine turning and moving the valves via the cams. If the cam chain tensioner is not doing its job the cam chain then slaps around in the case and jumps teeth on the cams which is very very bad. If it is too tight the cams will not rotate freeley and you can break the teeth off on them and do other bad stuff.

jontflesh

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

Well I feel better then, I rode the shite out of the bike yesterday and everything was great. It sounds like I got it right by what you guys are saying, I really appreciate it. Like I said before as soon as I get some coffee in me I'll write up a step by step and post it for anyone interested. Maybe I'll stick it on my crappy little website too.

Yea it was a little freaky looking at the part in the mail going, hmmm that's cool, now if I could just figure out where it goes! As soon as a propped the tank though, your discription was perfect Jon, my fiance said "All that time you spend on that board did finally pay off" images/icons/grin.gif HA, I thought that was pretty good.

Anyhow thanks a lot,I'm glad I got the bunk tensioner out before it crapped, looks kinda flimsy on the end of it. I just got an email saying my N.W.S. hugger shipped, now the say is really looking up!

Thanksa again, I'll post when my head clears!

[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>