I have never ever ever worked on a bike before so youll get some technical questions outta me... well semi-technical, hehe anyway.... Is changing the front padZ like changing them in a car, you just rip the two bolts out to slide out the housing and pop the padZ off, compress that "thingy" with like a c-clamp and put some other padZ on and rig her back up?? anything special I should do/know about this procedure, because I think I need some new stopping pillowZ... http://www.gixxer.com/ubb/images/icons/smile.gif thanks

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I am new to BikeZ!

It's similar to cars. I don't know what model you have, but the general procedure is as follows. Remove the two mounting bolts that hold them to the fork. Remove the cap that covers the top, note which direction is forward (it differs on some models). Remove the tiny "R" clip that holds the pad pin in place. Remove the pin and the pads will drop out the bottom of the caliper. Pump the brake lever 2-3 times to extend the pisons out of the bore slightly. Do not pump any more or the pistons will pop out of the calipers. Take a small nylon brush (not steel) and some WD-40 to remove the build-up of gunk on the pistons. If you don't do this you'll force the gunk back into the seals, which may damage them or cause the brakes to drag. After they're clean, push them back into the caliper bores. Remember, the new pads will be thicker, so the pistons will have to go back a little further. Clean the pin that holds the pads in place and lubricate it with high-temp white lithium grease. Install the new pads, re-install the R clip and the cap. Then install the caliper onto the rotor and forks. Remember to pump the lever several times to allow the pads to contact the rotors again. Repeat for the other caliper. Bed in the new pads according to the manufacturers recommendations. I can't believe I typed all this, I need a life.

[ 11-17-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

yeah, what he said.
just do NOT accidently get any wd-40 on the pads or rotors. If you get it on the pads, throw them away.
C-clamp should not be needed. I usually do it by hand.
Make sure to replace your brake fluid once a year! Especially if your bike sits in the sun any. Sunlight quickly degrades brake fluid.
Do not use DOT 5 synthetic brake fluid. It absorbs moisture very easy and is made with the idea if dumping it often.

Aftermarket pads is one of the best upgrades you can make.
Jedi

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jedi:
yeah, what he said.
just do NOT accidently get any wd-40 on the pads or rotors. If you get it on the pads, throw them away.
C-clamp should not be needed. I usually do it by hand.
Make sure to replace your brake fluid once a year! Especially if your bike sits in the sun any. Sunlight quickly degrades brake fluid.
Do not use DOT 5 synthetic brake fluid. It absorbs moisture very easy and is made with the idea if dumping it often.

Aftermarket pads is one of the best upgrades you can make.
Jedi

<hr></blockquote>

Yeah when brake fluid looks like color of coke is when i change mine.

[ 11-17-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

I rode hard the other day on my 1000 with some buds at a clover leaf (did like 9 hard laps with 10 turns each) and my breaks faded bad and the smelled nasty.. Any recomendation on pads/lines??

[ 11-17-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

you dont have to remove them from the forks. just take off the tin cover that covers the pads then take out the pin or in my case the threaded allen pin on the side of the caliper. slid the pads out the top and install new ones.

i guess i should have raed apexes repley befor i went and shot my mouth off.

[ 11-17-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by apex134:
I can't believe I typed all this, I need a life.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


heheh, your all set, i needed that.... http://www.gixxer.com/ubb/images/icons/smile.gif thanks!


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I am new to BikeZ!

BTW what the hell is "high-temp white lithium grease" where can I get it, and what happens if I dont lube the pin with it???

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I am new to BikeZ!

you can get white lithium grease from almost any automotive parts store.


hey GSXR7501000, get a set of EBC HH pads for the front and a set of Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines. that'll make a HUGE difference in your stopping power.

[ 11-17-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

Do any of you guys put lithium grease on the back of the pads?

[ 11-17-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

I just replaced my pad & Lines. The pads are a 5 minute job, but pumping up the break took forever. Someone on here told me to go to kneedraggers.com I got the goodridge SS lines and hh pads. Great combination. Also, got the russell speed bleeeders. I would reccommend them. Here's the site. http://www.speedbleeder.com/



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01 GSXR750

So can I just replace my pads or do I have to do the lines too... and I can just top off the existing break fluid too right??

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I am new to BikeZ!

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by ProGSX-R:
So can I just replace my pads or do I have to do the lines too... and I can just top off the existing break fluid too right??
<hr></blockquote>

You can just replace the pads, but replacing the fluid should be done at least as often as the pads. I bleed the brakes after every race. I second the vote for Russell speed bleeders, it makes bleeding and fluid replacement a 5 minute job.

[ 11-17-2001: Message edited by: God ]</p>

I have never bled break lines, is it easy with the assistance of these speed bleeding tools there on that site?

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I am new to BikeZ!

Yes.. It's easy. I got my info from Hunter.
Just be patient when pumping the new fluid in it takes a while. Make sure you get DOT 4 high proformance fuild. Also get some 1/4" clear hose to put on the bleeder screws so you don't make a mess.

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01 GSXR750