I have a 2003 750 and i want to get a power commander but i dont know which one is best the pc3r or the pc3usb. the usb is the newest one out. Can anyone give me any suggestions. Thanks

I have an 2K2 GSXR 750 and I'm gonna get the PCIIIUSB. I heard the IIIR was for racing applications only.

The PCIIIR basically has an extra feature where you can mod your ignition timing. Unless you do cam work etc to your engine you will likely never use it and just stick to fuel maps.

The USB one is just a PCIII with a "more" modern interface instead of serial (which is getting phased out slowly)

But before you buy the PC3 make sure its worth your while.
Unless you have a full system, its not really worth it. You can adjust the stock computer on the gixxer well enough (low/med/high RPM) on the dyno anyway and you really wouldn't know the diff.

Besides if you get the PC3 you will need to get it dyno tuned for your bike. Forget all that downloadable map bullshit or people selling maps on ebay!! You can use them as a base map but it will still need to be dialed into your specific engine, fuel, climate etc =) which costs a bit of $$ as well.

Hope it helps

So you're saying, unless you have a full system, a PC is not worth the $$$? I've heard people say that it makes a noticeable bit of difference even with a slip-on. How do you adjust the stock computer?

Bagherra, The PC is not worth the cash IMHO unless you have gone the full system or engine work.. or both.

The stock computer can be adjusted for low / medium / high rpm
I realise its not as flexible as the 500rpm incraments of the PC but its more then enough to get a nice power curve happening.

Sure the PC can help smooth out really small bumps but with the modern bikes ESP gixxers there really isnt anything there that "needs" a PC unlike some other bikes with snatchy peaky power delivery (such as Benelli Tornado TRE etc..)

Now the reason I say PC is good for full system (or 3/4) is coz you don't have the SETV to control low end torque and so the "micro" adjustments that the PC allows is very handy. Engine work is obvious =)

Also don't forget that the PC is a piggy back, and essentially your CPU still does all the work, then the PC intercepts the output, changes it according to its maps and then it goes to the EFI. So your adding a middle man which unless you need why bother?

I am sure that there might be people that disagree, so speak to your trusted Dyno guy and see what they say. By trusted I mean a guy who won't try and sell you a PC3 so he can make some $$$ I went through all this myself a while back did a fair bit of reaserach, talked to dyno guys and performance specialists, and once I got rid of the "sales" crap this is what info i trusted http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Hope it helps.

EDIT : The dyno guys have a way of adjusting stock computer. Please note all my info was based on a K1 Gix 1k but it applies to all the Kx gix family i'd say.

Helpful post...glad I read it...Thanx man & God Bless....J

Have to disagree with Frag. On Every bike that I have installed a PC on (With or without an aftermarket exhaust) the difference in power delivery was very noticeable. Whether it is worth the 245 or so that it will cost is relative to you income.

Taz - don;t get me wrong its noticable (we can argue how much) but spending 250 for the PC then say another 150US for a dyno tune (otherwise PC is a really usless in my opinion) for a slightly snoother power delivery that you obtain 90% of by just tuning the ECU?

I mean if money is no object sure trick out your bike, but I'd put 400 USD to better use. Get some braided lines, frame sliders, re do the forks... It is really subjective.

FraG said:
Taz - don;t get me wrong its noticable (we can argue how much) but spending 250 for the PC then say another 150US for a dyno tune (otherwise PC is a really usless in my opinion) for a slightly snoother power delivery that you obtain 90% of by just tuning the ECU?

I mean if money is no object sure trick out your bike, but I'd put 400 USD to better use. Get some braided lines, frame sliders, re do the forks... It is really subjective.



Actually, all of the maps I have used have been downloaded from Powercommander.com

Taz - and those maps havce suited your bikes?

I strongly feel those can only be used as "starting points" at best. How can they be suited to your bike? Every engine is different, every minute detail such as temp, air pressure etc when those maps were made are different,...

So for example the map was made on a say k1 gsxr 750 with 3000kms in 20 degree weather.. do you think this will still suit your k1 gsxr 750 with 20000kms riding in 40 degree weather (celcius)?

FraG said:
Taz - and those maps havce suited your bikes?

I strongly feel those can only be used as "starting points" at best. How can they be suited to your bike? Every engine is different, every minute detail such as temp, air pressure etc when those maps were made are different,...

So for example the map was made on a say k1 gsxr 750 with 3000kms in 20 degree weather.. do you think this will still suit your k1 gsxr 750 with 20000kms riding in 40 degree weather (celcius)?



I don't disagree with you that a custom map will be more accurate than a downloaded map, Every motor is a little different.

I was just saying that the downloadable maps have always seemed to significantly improve throttle response and power delivery. And that to see improvement it is not imperative that you spend $150 to $250 to get a custom map done.

You can't argue a custom map based on weather conditions, other atmospheric conditions or mileage on the bike either. That would mean that a "Custom" Map is only good on the day that the map is created.

Besides, The ECU signal of the bike is already compensated for Atmospheric pressure among other things. The PC just alters the signal coming from the ECU going to the Fuel Injectors.

On days when the temperature outside is either side of 70 degrees, I use the fine adjust buttons to adjust the curve up or down.

In my opinion, no map, custom or downloaded will be perfect in every condition. If you don't have access to inexpensive dyno time...all the time, the downloadable maps are close enough for us mere mortals.

Heh I know what your saying.. though lets agree to diasgree http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif In the end if it makes you (person buying it) happy then thats the most important aspect, in the end I am just trying to offer a different view so people don't expect too much as has been my experience.

Anyway enough typing, time for a ride!

Cheers http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

if you dump the exhuast valve on a 2k4 gixxer 1000 will the check engine light come on??? i did buy a yosh full system but i just returned it and went with a sato slip on wich eliminates that valve i have not recieved the exhaut yet but i was wondering if it will screw with my bike ??? and i was also wondering if i should get the pc3 with this new system also i would love to hear your guys input on this

You will need to remove a wire from the ECU when you disconnect the Set valve. Otherwise you will get an FI light. The wire is Brown with a Black stripe. There is recent post with a picture of the wire.

To get the most of an aftermarket exhaust, you need to alter the Fuel injector signal. Whether you do that with a PC or other device is up to you.