I was wondering if anyone has used the exact directions posted at the top of the forum? I'm not exactly a mechanic but not an idiot either. I guess I was wondering if I could get the job done right with just the directions at the top. Also, I was wondering if you did replace that gasket too.
Thanks for the help!

What were you planning on skipping?

I have done it. If the gasket is in really good shape you do not per say need a new one but why risk an oil leak down the side of your engine? The gasket is a lousy 12.00 if even that anyway images/icons/smile.gif

Switching to a manual tensioner is a pain in the ass but it is better than a blown engine, bent valves, split cam shaft, chewed up head just to name a few things images/icons/smile.gif

jontflesh

Can you get the gasket from the same place as the manual CCT (APE)?

NO, I definetly won't skip any steps. That's what I'm trying to figure out. By doing every step listed will I be OK. I want to make sure everything is done right.
Thanks

Originally posted by yellof4:
Can you get the gasket from the same place as the manual CCT (APE)?

NO, I definetly won't skip any steps. That's what I'm trying to figure out. By doing every step listed will I be OK. I want to make sure everything is done right.
Thanks<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I think ape does sell the gasket. If not email chip@ronayers.com and tell him you are a Gixxer.com member. He will hook you up images/icons/smile.gif

If you don't already get a Shop Manual for your bike and a Torque Wrench. A basic set of sockets, wreches will do fine. I found that buying a set of allen sockets has helped out a ton when working on tha bike.

Go slow, take your time, pay attention, and post questions and you will do fine images/icons/smile.gif

jontflesh

Anybody else have any experience changing the CCT? Thanks

I have a ton of it.. images/icons/smile.gif The step listed in the fourm should work just fine for you.. I helped look them over for final post, they looked good to me.. images/icons/smile.gif Once you get into it you will see that it isnt that hard.. images/icons/smile.gif Like Fleshy siad, take your time.. images/icons/smile.gif

John

Thanks, I was hoping those directions would be all I need cause I don't have a manual images/icons/frown.gif !

Yep Yep.. But if you have a question, dont wait, just ask.. images/icons/grin.gif

John

I'm gonna post the exact way I did it to my 98 GSXR600 on www.fantasysbk.com's (http://www.fantasysbk.com) forums. It would take about 2 hrs total if you have no mechanic experience I think. There was a few things missing from the tutorial, in terms of "descriptive" steps. But all in all, it worked out well.

(Descript steps meaning, you must take off the CARBS, to someone that's never worked on a bike before, might want to add, "remove the 8 bolts that connect the carb assembly to the head", stuff like that..)

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Corey

[ 10-07-2002, 08:37 AM: Message edited by: CoreyAtWork ]

You dont need to take the 8 bolts off.. You need to loosen the two clamps screws and you should be able to remove the carbs from the intake boots.. You do not need to remove the 8 bolts (2 bolts per boot) that hold the intake boots to the head..

John

Where the hell are those things at?

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Corey

Originally posted by CoreyAtWork:
Where the hell are those things at?

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Corey<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Well if your bike has all the stock stuff on it, there should be a rubber cap like thing on the side of your frame, just in front of your knee if you were riding the bike.. If you remove them, there is a whole there and when you look in the whole you should see the screw head for the clamp... This is how it is on the 98-99 750... I think they did it on the pre-FI as well... You loosen the screw and you can just take the carbs (or TBs) off the motor without unbolting the intake boots.. If you take the intake boots off make sure they go back on the same cyl.

John