my bike is jetted, geared, and has a pipe.(A 2K GIX 600) but... at around 5k-6k it sputters. is this fixable? i know i have to give up some "normal" performance to gain dragracing power. but i feel like im driving a car w/4 barrel carbs. HELP!!!

that should almost be the start of your power band... your suposed to be getting more power... are you sure your carbs were jetted right? you could go take it to get it dynoed and go from there...

My 600 has a flat spot around that mark, but it's not _that_ bad. Sounds like the jetting ain't quite right, 600's are notoriously difficult to set up. Does it have a K&N filter or stock?

i have 135's on the inside carbs and 137.5's on the outside. i went up to those because i was running pretty lean before. after i posted i double checked and the bog is at about 4k. its gotten better after a 47 tooth gear in the rear. its not really bad as long as i dont jump on it.
i am looking into carb sync tools and am waiting to get it dynoed.

[ 04-19-2002, 06:17 PM: Message edited by: wldbil1 ]

This is common. I bet it not a WFO. At about 5-10% gas.

What you can try is to get a half step shim for the neddel jet. This I have been told will help...

John

yeah, i am looking for somewhere to get adjustable needles WITHOUT having to buy a whole jet kit. i dont need the jets, i already have those. i too think that will help.

Anyone that sells the jet kits should be able to get you what you need... images/icons/smile.gif

John

Originally posted by wldbil1:
my bike is jetted, geared, and has a pipe.(A 2K GIX 600) but... at around 5k-6k it sputters. is this fixable? i know i have to give up some "normal" performance to gain dragracing power. but i feel like im driving a car w/4 barrel carbs. HELP!!!<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">when you get this figuered out let me know mine does the same damn thing carbs have been done twice and its really pissin me off runs fine as long as you just roll the throttle but as soon as you rip into it, it stumbles images/icons/mad.gif

it sounds to me that you guys have a rich condition when the carbs are in transition fron the the slow jet to the main jet...lean it out...

bill, usually the inside cylinders(2+3) run leaner than 1+4 so you would have to run them richer...switch the mains that you have now, set the clip on the the third slot and give the air fuel mixture screws 2.5 turns out from the closed position...this is a good starting place and go from there...keep me informed...

thanks,
dwayne

i put the mains bigger on the outside because i read on here about the outside cylinders running hotter. they said to put the bigger jets on the outside. now im confused. also, i have called every supplier and noone sells the needles alone. if anyone knows different, PLEASE let me know!!!
where is the air fuel mixture adjustment? im gonna look in the manual for it. i actually found a way to avoid this at the track. i went up to a 47 tooth gear that keeps me in the power band. i love it now, i never get low enough to hit the bog spot. images/icons/smile.gif

[ 04-20-2002, 07:58 PM: Message edited by: wldbil1 ]

There is a plug that covers the air screw, you have to drill it out and then adjust it... images/icons/smile.gif

John

ok, im gonna try and figure out where this thing is. what other adjustments are there? will changing the pilot jet make any difference? im gonna have to wait til monday to look for the adjustment. my bike is 45 min away because i somehow lost the oil filler cap at the track. images/icons/mad.gif

ok, can you guys please help and clarify this cylinder issue? ive heard bigger on the outside and also bigger on the inside. images/icons/confused.gif
what is right?

Originally posted by wldbil1:
ok, can you guys please help and clarify this cylinder issue? ive heard bigger on the outside and also bigger on the inside. images/icons/confused.gif
what is right?<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">if its because they run hotter it would be the inside 2/3 not as much external wall to disipate heat graemlins/thumbup.gif

i bought my bike used. how does suzuki do the jet sizes? do they put all the same, or do they too use dif sizes? if they do, how do they configure them?

Take the bike to a shop and have it dyno tuned.
On the dyno they should be able to tell at which rpm,s the bike runs rich or lean and if it is jetted incorrectly they can give you recomendations by being educated on how the bike has ran.

on 96 750 it uses 125 and 127.5 inside hotter due to cylinders in middle closer of course I got a question though what do you think a bike surging at cruising speed say second under 4k is

lamar,

that is also a sign of being lean(fuel starvation)...richen it up a bit and see if the surge goes away...

dwayne

I here from the local racer that the reason for different size jetting is to compensate for airbox design... Either the outers or inners are getting more or less air due to the flow of air through the box! Water flows through the block all the time so I don't think that temp is an issue!

ya gotta love it. thats 3 different reasons and explanations. is there a definitive answer to this??? all i want to do is set my carbs up right, and im more confused than ever. images/icons/confused.gif i saw a post on the board about fuel m mixture screws and how to adjust them. i think ill try that, so each carb is as close as i can get them until i can get it dyno'd.

hey dewayne i am at 130/132.5 right now 3 3/4 turns and bike pulls like i am carrying an elephant on the rear until 10 when it really lights up i have yet to make it to the dyno the shop closed down and sold the machine. What i will try now is 135 and next size up i think 137.5 and see hey also dwayne on the road roll ons aint many bike messing with me stock 750 cbr900 and zx9 had no chance they are still thinking i am at boost or something hehe thanks again. let me add 2k 750 with the normal pipe and all and cbr full also zx9 just ful no jet kit but on highway and open throttle they get the jump and thats about it.

[ 04-25-2002, 09:59 AM: Message edited by: audi1031 ]