:yumyum Stay tuned......:sleep

Yoshimura oil cap
PitBull forklift
spare rear set goodies and more :shifty

When you buy a set of Ohlins forks (it's gonna happen), I'll be standing buy your rubbish bin to collect your K5/6 items:biggrin

When you buy a set of Ohlins forks (it's gonna happen), I'll be standing buy your rubbish bin to collect your K5/6 items:biggrin
:lol

Öhlins forks, meh. :dissapointed
:shifty Öhlins 25mm cartridges :yumyum

very nice, now did those woodcraft items come from wera

very nice, now did those woodcraft items come from wera
Wera, what's that? :scratch




:lmao

ohhh well then never mind lol

Nothing so awesome today.
:burnout -1 Renthal front cog installed.
Oil and filter changed too.:biggrin

:lol BTW, this is how to properly safety wire an oil filter :shifty

Fedex delivered...........:yumyum

7.67 lbs less than the Yuasa. :biggrin

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/Parts/3f5083f9.jpg

Got some free swag to boot.

The Renthal front sprocket is interesting because of the size of the lightening holes. It's comparable to this one which was on one of Spies' bikes.
http://i43.tinypic.com/28s1tug.jpg
Ten holes is unusual and I suspect that it was done by the race team.

I think you're "cheating" on your battery weight savings because you're starting with that YTX12-BS boat anchor. :lol

P.S. The lightening hole size looks bigger than in any of the Renthal pictures (probably generic) that I've found. Is yours the 321U-520-16P?

What brand is the thumb brake?

I think you're "cheating" on your battery weight savings because you're starting with that YTX12-BS boat anchor. :lol

P.S. The lightening hole size looks bigger than in any of the Renthal pictures (probably generic) that I've found. Is yours the 321U-520-16P?

Cheating, how so? :scratch The old battery is what it is. :dunno

Yeah, the cog is that p/n. :yumyum CNC'd, not some stamped part, like the Driven it replaced.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/Parts/5c3ce0de.jpg



What brand is the thumb brake?

Oh, that thing? :lol I am fairly certain it is a Nissin.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/Parts/cdc69e37.jpg

It appears to be the same master as the one shown here (http://www.gptechllc.com/products/gp-tech/thumbrakes). :shifty

lol your new battery looks identical to the ballistic one i just put in mine, thank god it survived the crash.

lol your new battery looks identical to the ballistic one i just put in mine, thank god it survived the crash.

Sure does!!

Mine wasn't $159 though. :yumyum
On the other hand, it doesn't have a 3 year prorated warranty either. :dissapointed

But it did come with a free Flash Gordon rocketship T-shirt. :lmao

Cheating, how so? The old battery is what it is.I'm just yanking your chain. But on a ten year old bike that has had the battery replaced at least once, I'm surprised that your Yuasa wasn't the YT12A-BS used in the later years. It's the same width, length, and capacity as the YTX12-BS but is lighter.

Thanks for the nice pic of the Renthal sprocket. You didn't happen to weigh it by chance? I also have a Driven sprocket but some hunting around suggests that Renthal is doing their homework. The 17 tooth sprocket has 7 larger holes while the 14 tooth has nine smaller holes so they're paying attention to each sprocket size. Available for a reasonable price. I see that Mike Edwards was using them on his K8 racer. I thought that they were Californian but I see that they're actually English.

Forget the warranty. I'll take the t-shirt.

Nice battery .

I see a stack of rear sprockets in one pic you don't happen to have a 44t 530 that you would want to part with do you?

Does that battery just drop in place of the stock battery? No special mods required? I've been thinking about getting one but haven't yet.

I'm just yanking your chain. But on a ten year old bike that has had the battery replaced at least once, I'm surprised that your Yuasa wasn't the YT12A-BS used in the later years. It's the same width, length, and capacity as the YTX12-BS but is lighter.
Thanks for the nice pic of the Renthal sprocket. You didn't happen to weigh it by chance? I also have a Driven sprocket but some hunting around suggests that Renthal is doing their homework. The 17 tooth sprocket has 7 larger holes while the 14 tooth has nine smaller holes so they're paying attention to each sprocket size. Available for a reasonable price. I see that Mike Edwards was using them on his K8 racer. I thought that they were Californian but I see that they're actually English.
Forget the warranty. I'll take the t-shirt.

11years old in April. :sad
The battery being replaced with the Li-Fe has been on the bike a few years. I reckon I wasn't aware of the "A"s lighter weight.:dunno
Definitely a top shelf sprocket, Bill.
Me weigh stuff? :lol I didn't, but (after seeing Spies' with the lock tabs)I was thinking about drilling and safety wiring the sprocket nut, so I may have the chance to anyway.
I thought the T-shirt was pretty cool too. :thumbup

I see a stack of rear sprockets in one pic you don't happen to have a 44t 530 that you would want to part with do you?Nope, those are all 520 cogs.
Does that battery just drop in place of the stock battery? No special mods required? I've been thinking about getting one but haven't yet.Nothing special to install this battery. Alien Motion has a FAQ (http://alienmotion.com/html/faq.html).

Does that battery just drop in place of the stock battery? No special mods required? I've been thinking about getting one but haven't yet.

U can easily make your own 4 cell lifepo4 battery. I made mines for like $50 or so. Search A123 battery and there are a lot info, vids, and diy instructions to make battery pack.

http://www.centralvalleyriders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15565&d=1285912354

U can easily make your own 4 cell lifepo4 battery. I made mines for like $50 or so...

Why bother? :scratchFor a little bit more ($59.99 (http://alienmotion.com/html/amstore4_0.html) with free shipping) you can get something that looks a lot better. :lol

Some companies (http://www.ballisticparts.com/) don't recommend the 4 cells for the 600 or 750. :dunno
AM 4 cell for the smaller displacement bikes:

+1 Four cells is marginal for a 1000, even for a racer. Furthermore the leads ought to be the same size as the leads to the battery. For the 1000's that's 8 ga. red/6 ga. black, so you ought to be using at least 8 ga. I can't tell for sure but the picture suggests that you might be using solid rather than stranded wire. If so, that's a definite no-no. Alfalfa's battery is a good deal. Or if you're trying to save the last gram, there's a guy on ebay named sz_ohmygod who builds them from A123 green cells and the correct ga. wire for about the same price. That will save about 130 gm and he can supply them with a quick disconnect if desired.

P.S. Some searching suggests that all the infighting between the founders has led to the demise of Speedcell, or at least it's near disappearance. At a time when they should have been improving the product and lowering the price, they were instead preoccupied with suing each other, which left the market wide open for others like Shorai, Ballisticparts, etc. Their lead is gone and will never be reclaimed.

Well, I got lazy after drilling the nut. :dissapointed I didn't feel like removing the wheel or adjusting the chain slack again to get the cog removed. So, no weighing of the wholey sprocket. :lol

OCD, at its finest. :lmao

Why bother? :scratchFor a little bit more ($59.99 (http://alienmotion.com/html/amstore4_0.html) with free shipping) you can get something that looks a lot better. :lol

Some companies (http://www.ballisticparts.com/) don't recommend the 4 cells for the 600 or 750. :dunno
AM 4 cell for the smaller displacement bikes:

lol I like my crappy looking battery. It gets the job done and I've had no issues with my 4 cell.:cheers

^Read this (http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4936) but read at least through posts 14 & 15 before you come to any conclusions.

My conclusions are 1) beware of home brewed wiring and 2) even Shorais can fail.

^Read this (http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4936) but read at least through posts 14 & 15 before you come to any conclusions.

My conclusions are 1) beware of home brewed wiring and 2) even Shorais can fail.

I know the risk and have read a few threads on batt fires. In the summer months I ride daily in +100 degrees F temp and have had no issues.:cheers

Well, I got lazy after drilling the nut. :dissapointed I didn't feel like removing the wheel or adjusting the chain slack again to get the cog removed. So, no weighing of the wholey sprocket. :lol

OCD, at its finest. :lmao

hey mate out of curiousity how did you drill the nut without any bit drift on that angle?

hey mate out of curiousity how did you drill the nut without any bit drift on that angle?

Hey, brother! :cheers
The way I always drill them, I am too frugal to by a jig. :facepalm
I just mark the flat with a center punch, then start to drill straight down. After I get the hole started I turn the nut several degrees and drill a tad more, continuing these steps until I am at the correct angle to drill out the adjoining flat.

While I was setting up the GoPro I made a new bracket for the preload adjuster. :biggrin

It has been quite a busy evening, changing forks and compression needles.


:oogle

OK, what's happened to the traxxion cartridges?
Thanks for the tip on the camera mount position, they don't allow cameras on ride days here. But.......if they can't see it....

OK, what's happened to the traxxion cartridges? Thanks for the tip on the camera mount position, they don't allow cameras on ride days here. But.......if they can't see it....

The Traxxion forks are sitting in the corner until I make sure I no longer have a use for them. :shifty

You can't use video cameras during track days? What a crock! :dissapointed
I don't want my camera falling off. :oogle

Keep me in the loop. If the price is right......well....
Oh yeah and Phillip Island, no timing devices either. But everyone still uses them.

Hey, brother! :cheers
The way I always drill them, I am too frugal to by a jig. :facepalm
I just mark the flat with a center punch, then start to drill straight down. After I get the hole started I turn the nut several degrees and drill a tad more, continuing these steps until I am at the correct angle to drill out the adjoining flat.

While I was setting up the GoPro I made a new bracket for the preload adjuster. :biggrin

:cheers brother! your bikes coming along really well btw

Gave your method a try the other night and it worked a treat! Rear axle and counter sprocket nuts are now done. Cheers

Gave your method a try the other night and it worked a treat! Rear axle and counter sprocket nuts are now done. Cheers
Glad that worked out for ya! :cheers
Er, I mean, pics or it didn't happen!!! :lol


:shifty
I started on these today........

Maybe I can finish them tomorrow :dunno

I should be on Rocket City Rednecks :suicide

^Before you get too carried away, take a look at this (http://www.carbonpartz.net/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://g8c0xlswlx.site.aplus.net/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/DSC01063.jpg&target=tlx_picuin4&title=Custom%20lifters).

^Before you get too carried away, take a look at this (http://www.carbonpartz.net/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://g8c0xlswlx.site.aplus.net/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/DSC01063.jpg&target=tlx_picuin4&title=Custom%20lifters).


Oooo, too fancy for me! :twitch
Besides, I actually ride my bike. :lol

Carbon fiber or not, they do look awfully flimsy.

I've stayed away from such things because, for the purpose of doing things like checking suspension settings, the best place to lift is the rear axle

Carbon fiber or not, they do look awfully flimsy.
I've stayed away from such things because, for the purpose of doing things like checking suspension settings, the best place to lift is the rear axle
Unless that carbon is pretty thick, I'd be afraid of a side load flexing it too much. But they look cool. :cool

Why is the axle your preferred lift point and what settings are you checking ? :dunno

Anyhow, my hillbilly machine shop turned out another job today. :lol

^For things like measuring sag picking it up by the axle is equivalent to letting it sit on the ground. But you don't need a helper or other means to keep it upright. Picking it up at any other point will alter the amount of weight carried at the rear and the length of the lever arm from that weight to the rear spring. So you'll get a different measurement.

He has several other pictures of his lifters. I believe that he's just copied the Gilles lifters in CF. It's hard to tell what thickness he used but CF stock is sold in up to 1/2" thickness that I know of. Off hand, I'd be comfortable with 1/4" in that application.

:shifty Camera condom...........
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/GoPro/a7caa3aa.jpg

Mounted..........
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/GoPro/44f32c96.jpg

Alfalfa, that camera seems to have real good image quality. Team that up with good audio and it makes the footage so much more enthralling to watch.

Here is a youtube clip to put you in the mood. Check out the short shifting around 46 seconds, it's a blast. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWFB14oq-pE

I am dying to see some good footage from it.

That's a sick swingarm!

Does your muffler get in the camera's field of view?

Does your muffler get in the camera's field of view?
:lol Pay attention. BillV!! :hammer
There is a photo from the camera's view (http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5477624&postcount=27) on the 1st page.


That's a sick swingarm!

Ha yeah, thanks. :lmaoThere's a lot more to this machine than the swingarm. :shifty

Mounted..........
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/GoPro/44f32c96.jpg


I'm going to try something like this. :dunno

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g390/Juha750/resized20gopro20P1080585.jpg


And here is the bracket for it. I'll have to check, if there is enough room for the camera if I extend the bracket to the inside.
[mm]

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g390/Juha750/kamerareline201.jpg


With that bracket I could mount camera on the either side of the bike.

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g390/Juha750/osat/2012-02-25-056.jpg

I'm going to try something like this. :dunno

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g390/Juha750/resized20gopro20P1080585.jpg

With that bracket I could mount camera on the either side of the bike.

Looks cool, did you make that? :cool
What holds the camera mount to the bracket?
And I think your bolt holes may be in the wrong place in relation to the extended portion of the arm. :dunno

Looks cool, did you make that? :cool
What holds the camera mount to the bracket?
And I think your bolt holes may be in the wrong place in relation to the extended portion of the arm. :dunno

Not yet, and my friend is going to make that :lol
I'm just going to drill a few holes to the arm part. There is a thread inside the mount so I'm just going to use a bolt to hold it there. For me, bolt holes looks to be in correct places :shifty
side view and front view?

Ebay link http://www.ebay.com/itm/260960202787?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Pay attention. BillV!!Yea but you seem to have changed the camera since then. If it's still the same, how about mounting it on the other side to minimize the blockage?

I assumed you were attaching it similar to the GoPro handlebar mount.
Thanks for the link, I may pick up one of those while they are in production. :thumbup

I revised your drawing to show how I thought the mount would be.... :dunno

I assumed you were attaching it similar to the GoPro handlebar mount.
Thanks for the link, I may pick up one of those while they are in production. :thumbup

I revised your drawing to show how I thought the mount would be.... :dunno

I thought about doing it like that, but if you drill holes through the tail pipe it would hold better, or would it :dunno

Yea but you seem to have changed the camera since then. If it's still the same, how about mounting it on the other side to minimize the blockage?

Nope, the mounting location has not changed from the previous pic.
I really don't think anyone will miss too much at that angle. Besides, why risk a chain lube loogie on the lense. :lmao



I thought about doing it like that, but if you drill holes through the tail pipe it would hold better, or would it :dunno
With the mount on your drilled frame hole you are limited to the single location. Not to mention weakening the frame support: in the event of a crash it could affect strength. :dunno

With the mount on your drilled frame hole you are limited to the single location. Not to mention weakening the frame support: in the event of a crash it could affect strength. :dunno

That's true, maybe it's better to try how you suggest it and see how it holds in place.


Here is the revised plan. Dimension might change a bit, because I don't know what is the diameter of the Gopro mount.

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g390/Juha750/kamerateline202-1.jpg

That's true, maybe it's better to try how you suggest it and see how it holds in place.
Here is the revised plan. Dimension might change a bit, because I don't know what is the diameter of the Gopro mount.

I missed your reply last month. :dunno I don't see the need for the 35 mm width and 4 bolts. 2 should hold it fine. :fact

I tested the GoPro rearview mount today. :burnout
I was afraid it might have some vibration, but it turned out very well.
I just need to adjust the angle down a few degrees to get the edge of the tire in the line of sight. :chucks
Here are a couple of short tests, boring but prove the location is OK.
http://vimeo.com/39124385
http://vimeo.com/39124734

:sleep:sleep:sleep:sleep:sleep:sleep

videos :piss

---->videos (http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r148/quartermilecrazy/Bike%20track/?action=view&current=FILE0007.mp4) :piss

:lmao

Case in point:

http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r148/quartermilecrazy/Bike%20track/?action=view&current=FILE0005.mp4

Though mine aren't just with the bike sitting in the garage.
:cheers

:lmao

Case in point:

http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r148/quartermilecrazy/Bike%20track/?action=view&current=FILE0005.mp4

Though mine aren't just with the bike sitting in the garage.
:cheers

:lmao.

That bike is not registered or insured, I have to get some more mounts for the street bike.

Neither is mine, as the bike was lacking tags and lights as seen in the pic above. :shifty

Why the :piss remark? :dunno
At least I was checking to see if the mount/video will be worth a damn as far as vibration, pov, etc. in real life.:fact Shaky ass videos suck!!
I just don't see any real value in your posts here, but you must. Carry on!! :cheers

Iron rotors FTW!!! :punk

Here are a couple of short tests, boring but prove the location is OK.
http://vimeo.com/39124385
http://vimeo.com/39124734

:sleep:sleep:sleep:sleep:sleep:sleep

That's pretty sweet camera angle. Sound is good and no vibration :thumbup

Iron rotors FTW!!! :punk

Brother! Loving the addition of the thumb brake and floating rear rotor.
Your bike = :drool :drool :drool

Brother! Loving the addition of the thumb brake and floating rear rotor.
Your bike = :drool
:cheers Thanks!
Not thinking I will to add the thumb brake though, BD. :dunno
Now the rear rotor matches the fronts.

Ready to turn some laps in a couple of weeks. :wait
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/ff22ac01.jpg

Modded the front stand to hold the calipers......
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/a579c8f1.jpg

I hear tell Pit Bull has added a threaded boss on the new generation front stand to facilitate doing the same thing. :fact
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/88efdadf.jpg

View of the billet linkage parts..:yumyum
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/88e261d9.jpg


Enjoy and be safe!!

Few snaps from today after dustin' her off. ;)

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/IMG_2933.jpg

Yosh billet trips, as good as (or better than) the Attack Performance set previously mounted.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/IMG_2989.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/IMG_2953.jpg

:cheers

That's pretty sweet camera angle. Sound is good and no vibration :thumbup

Thanks JK! :thumbup
Here's a >short clip (https://vimeo.com/42507949)< of a fast kid passing a slow guy. :shifty

Got some new numbers for my OLD bike:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/011e63b6.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/6088cea0.jpg

Stubby brake pedal:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/744595d0.jpg
compared:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/43b56ccb.jpg

Brake lever guard:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/683eb7e4.jpg

Good example of why to have one........
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=EtUW6fXbOLw#t=200s
:ohmy



Almost forgot.......I made a nice samwish today too.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/83f241c3.jpg

:yumyum Very nice samich Alfalfa.

:shifty

Man you have a nice bike... :thumbup:

Man you have a nice bike... :thumbup:
Thanks, brah! :cheers
I'm glad you think so!
And before you ask.....no, you can't have that samwish! :lol

How much better is that Brembo MC Alfalfa, I now you will give a no BS answer.

Edit: know not now (bozo)

How much better is that Brembo MC Alfalfa, I know you will give a no BS answer.


:thumbup
¡Ningunas BS, mucho mejor, señor Craig!
:cheers

That samwish place doesn't even look like it's located on the wrong end of Tennessee.

I was hoping you wouldn't say that. I am trying to not want too much.

New D.I.D chain. :yumyum

Installed............:p

Any reason for DID over RK or EK?

Any reason for DID over RK or EK?

Maybe because it's lighter than RK & EK :dunno

Any reason for DID over RK or EK?

Always used D.I.D with good results. :fact

Maybe because it's lighter than RK & EK :dunno Good point, but I've not compared them. :cheers

^I've seen it on some of the MotoGP display bikes so it presumably is also used on the actual race bikes. It seems to be the lightest available 520 chain, the next lightest being the EK 520RXO/GP. The weight reduction seems to be principally due to thin link plates. But this also leads to reduced strength. It sounds like something that is for race only use where it will be closely monitored.

^^Good info, Bill, thanks for posting that up! :thumbup
I haven't had any issues at all with these chains. The one I am replacing was on the bike for a little over 2 years.:biggrin

Picked up these (spare)frame slider pucks on a local forum for a Jackson shipped. :burnout