BST36SS carbs.... I cant get the bike to run right... Right now the bike only has the headers on it.. It has 140main jets. I am not sure how to check the Pilot jets. Idle mixture screw it two turns out.... The bike wont go over 5,500RPM it boggs down and cuts out.. I think its just getting flooded... Can't get the bike running long enough to sync the carbs not sure that would change anything.. Am i just doing something wrong? Here is a video of the bike
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Zs680QVXbs

Put the airbox back on it, or filter pods, whatever you have. Then try again.

As far as syncing, you can do them off the bike. Called bench sync, easy to do and is fairly accurate.

Assuming your carbs are in perfect condition, the engine's not going to want to run well when cold without some sort of intake filter, unless you've re-jetted the carbs to run without a filter. Also, are you using the fuel enrichment circuit when the engine is cold?

My advice?

Make sure you are running the right carbs for that engine.
Make sure they are clean with no air leaks, worn o-rings, worn slides, wrong float heights, etc. Make sure the gas is fresh.
Make sure your ignition system is healthy. Good wires, correct plugs, correct plug gap, etc.
Bench-synch the carbs to get in the ball park.
Make sure you run filters of some sort. IF you run anything other than a stock filter in a stock airbox, re-jet the carbs to suit your filters.
Use the enrichment circuit and warm the engine to operating temperature before you tune anything.
Synch the carbs,

Then, and only then, start adjusting them to run properly.

JR

First make sure the bike idles properly.

In my opinion it is idling way to rich.

Can you show us a picture of the slides, particulry the lift holes?

I know for a fact that if you drill these to large, the bikes starts to stall when you give to rapid throttle.

Greetings,
Benjamin

Bench sync I am assuming would be to open the throttles up and use a measuring tool to measure the butterflies... I am going to put the exhaust on... I had the carbs rebuilt by "a professional" to run the pod filters and the aftermarket exhaust... I just want to make sure I am not doing idiot mistake... The fuel is NEW seals and o-rings are new.. I am not sure what the slide lift holes are... Also the float needle is not adjustable... Are the OEM needles adjustable?

Use the enrichment circuit and warm the engine to operating temperature before you tune anything.
Synch the carbs,

Then, and only then, start adjusting them to run properly.

JR
Enrichment circuit is that just the choke? I apologize I am new to the carb scene..

What you might think of as a choke knob is really an enrichment knob. You need to use that to start the bike and then gradually push it in as the engine warms. Put the filters on first, though. That makes a huge difference.

The floats on any carb like this are adjustable. You bend the float tang to adjust them. Look through the carb thread to learn how. If a pro rebuilt the carbs, he hopefully set the float heights correctly.

OEM jet needles are not adjustable, other than raising them with shims. Aftermarket needles usually are adjustable. Neither had anything to do with the floats, so I'm not sure what you are talking about. The needle and seat assemblies that reside in the float bowls, that the floats operate, have no adjustment.

You might want to look through the instructions that came with whatever jet kit the pro installed. If he did his own thing and didn't use an aftermarket kit, ask him what baseline settings to use.

If you're new to tuning carbs, you may just want to take the bike to a shop that has a dyno and get them set up. The result will be better than any method that doesn't use a dyno.

Good luck,
JR

I agree with the other posts. You need the air box or pod filters on unless it has been jeted to run without them.

The 140 main jets does not seem right it should have a some kind of after market jet kit fitted (dynojet, factory)

It looks like your bike is an 1100. If it has a jet kit fitted the needles should be adjustable.

Please read the the dynojet fitting instructions below, it might help you understand about the jetting requirement.

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3136.pdf

Hey dude.... Maybe this will help. I have an 87 Gsxr 1100. I went nutz :banghead with these stock 34 BST's.. It has K&N pod's and a Vance & Hine's perfomance exhaust.I replaced the pilot jet at one point on the advice of the guy at the carb shop... :nono dumb idea. What my carb use's is an N151.067 NON BLEED. That mean's without the emulsion hole's in the side. I installed the jet's with the emulsion hole's When I finally got it started it sounded Exactly like your's.. I will use the word Saturated... I don't know how your 36's match up internally. But check to make sure the dough head didn't pop in the wrong jet.Wrong configuration or too big.. Check the manual or maybe Bike Bandit to get the carb breakdown.Google it..! I just got done putting in what I hope is my last jet configuration. Sound's good standing still but I need to "Get On it"...!. I am confident this is the set up for mine.. I've gone through a bunch of jet's. Jetting can be the most frustrating thing in the world. Underneath the top diaphragm there is a Pilot air #135 , non bleed pilot jet in bowl right in front of main jet is #137.5 , Large round main's are #150 on 1 & 4 and #152's on 2 & 3 because the two center cylinder's run hotter. The mix screw's are turned out 2 1/2 turn's. These are all stock jet's - no jet kit. I ripped that mismatched corroded pitted crap set up out..The stock pilot's and main's were #32.5 pilot & # 132.5 main. The diaphragm air jet , mix screw and needle jet ( the long jet going through the slide) are still stock. So you can see the jump I had to make on the other two.If you have a jet kit he should have set it up for you but..... It could take awhile to tweek it,or it may never run right. I don't believe in "jet kit's" it's a crock..! Most of all I'm not drillin any hole's in my carb's man...! You know how many time's I've heard " You really need a jet kit. They are more trouble than they're worth. Get more technical and these guy's will have you formulating altitude,humidity and any other excuse they can find as to why it ain't runnin right. PLEASE...!!! If you find a good dyno shop they will be able to tell exactly where it's lacking or need's richening. Oh yea I almost forgot - plug's are the best way for those of us without a Dyno to see what's goin on with the mixture.. I have some good place's to buy geniune mikuni jet 4 pack's.$16 out the door. That's cheap... Something else you should know ; stock jetting and aftermarket jet kit's Do Not use the same formula to measure thier jet's so don't try to mix and match anything. One or the other. I would stay with stock jetting increasing the jet size's. My money is still on that pilot jet for now with the kit you have.

Sounds like the engine is only running on two cylinders. I noticed when the bike stops you are able to re start it immediately. If it's too rich you should have to crank it over more than you are. Have you pulled the plugs to verify it's too rich? Are the plugs wet or black? Have you checked all the bowls to see if there is actually fuel in all them? Almost sounds like the carbs are not getting enough fuel to the bowls.

Well that setup worked for my 1100. Smooth. Pull's hard in every gear. :burnout Really hard. I goosed it a little out of the hole and she started rising.. 2nd gear too. Sweeeeeet. So where are you at with those 36's....? Did you have a jet kit put in or did the guy just throw in some bigger jet's. Either way with carb's it's trial and error. Unless the guy put bigger stock jet's in or a jet kit and dyno'd it before he sent it back there is no way anyone can say " This will work" unless it has been tried,true and tested on that setup or one very similar. Every modification change's something. Different size header's,cam etc etc.The setup I put in WORK'S on the 87 1100 with the stock 34''s - K & N individual oval filter's and the Vance & Hine's Perfomance exhaust. The only additional performance part's would be the Dyna coil's I installed. Don't smash the carb's and turn into this guy :suicide Something is out of balance just a little.

Bench sync I am assuming would be to open the throttles up and use a measuring tool to measure the butterflies... I am going to put the exhaust on... I had the carbs rebuilt by "a professional" to run the pod filters and the aftermarket exhaust... I just want to make sure I am not doing idiot mistake... The fuel is NEW seals and o-rings are new.. I am not sure what the slide lift holes are... Also the float needle is not adjustable... Are the OEM needles adjustable?

What do you mean by "I am going to put the exhaust on..."

As mentioned earlier, you need to have your bike pretty much assembled that way it would be on the street in order to start dialing in the carbs. Make sure you have filters and exhaust on the bike before you decide how it's running.

Also, one of the guys mentioned they thought it sounded like the bike was running on 2 cylinders... I agree. It sounds like not all 4 cylinders are pulling when you blipped the throttle. Check your plugs.

Have you run it long enough for all of the float bowls to get filled completely? That will make it run lean, too...

JR

Well that setup worked for my 1100. Smooth. Pull's hard in every gear. :burnout Really hard. I goosed it a little out of the hole and she started rising.. 2nd gear too. Sweeeeeet. So where are you at with those 36's....? Did you have a jet kit put in or did the guy just throw in some bigger jet's. Either way with carb's it's trial and error. Unless the guy put bigger stock jet's in or a jet kit and dyno'd it before he sent it back there is no way anyone can say " This will work" unless it has been tried,true and tested on that setup or one very similar. Every modification change's something. Different size header's,cam etc etc.The setup I put in WORK'S on the 87 1100 with the stock 34''s - K & N individual oval filter's and the Vance & Hine's Perfomance exhaust. The only additional performance part's would be the Dyna coil's I installed. Don't smash the carb's and turn into this guy :suicide Something is out of balance just a little.


Sorry about the late reply... Bike still isn't running right... Got the carbs synced and it seems to be doing well.. now it is starving for fuel.. I was thinking of going the "jet kit" route because I am not sure what else to do.. I am running 140 mains (I believe). The pilot jets are 35's I was given 42.5's by the carb guy who recommended I change them to a larger one but he couldn't remember what he put in my setup... so maybe 42.5's are to big.. I am running the dual pod style filters with a full Vance and Hines Exhaust. It runs well up until 5K RPM where it bogs down bad (im guessing starved for fuel) and sometimes it pops.. I'd like to keep it simple but maybe the dynojet is the only way.. I have heard about having to drill stuff and once its drilled i guess its done for..

Also stock main jet is: 122.5 and Pilot is: 30
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c169/nealhan/IMG_0225.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c169/nealhan/IMG_0226.jpg

That look's like a jet kit. Because of the adjustable Needle jet. Those pilot's are the bleed type which is what I had in mine.They are the one's that made it sound/feel saturated ( hole's in the side's ) . See the difference between the two. Those 35's are non bleed. N151.067. Are the 35's stock..? Is this a 1100 or 750..? Try and find out ( I've looked ..?? ) what is stock. Do you have a manual..? If you want to stay stock I have stock jet's that you can try if you want.. So you don't have to start writing a suicide note just yet..lol Find out which pilot style is stock on the 36's to see if they match what I have..Mine were 32.5 stock and now I'm runnung the 37.5. Plus an assortment of main's. Like I said I'm running the 150's on 1 & 4 - 152's on 2 & 3. But like you I still get a pop out the carb on 1 & 4 which tell's me I might have to jump to 152's across the board. Still a smidge lean. But she still rippp's.......

That look's like a jet kit. Because of the adjustable Needle jet. Those pilot's are the bleed type which is what I had in mine.They are the one's that made it sound/feel saturated ( hole's in the side's ) . See the difference between the two. Those 35's are non bleed. N151.067. Are the 35's stock..? Is this a 1100 or 750..? Try and find out ( I've looked ..?? ) what is stock. Do you have a manual..? If you want to stay stock I have stock jet's that you can try if you want.. So you don't have to start writing a suicide note just yet..lol Find out which pilot style is stock on the 36's to see if they match what I have..Mine were 32.5 stock and now I'm runnung the 37.5. Plus an assortment of main's. Like I said I'm running the 150's on 1 & 4 - 152's on 2 & 3. But like you I still get a pop out the carb on 1 & 4 which tell's me I might have to jump to 152's across the board. Still a smidge lean. But she still rippp's.......

HAHA! Stocks are 30's so the guy went up to 35's the ends are both "non bleed" and the two middles have the holes in the sides.. I don't know the purpose for that.. The adjustable needles are what he gave me to throw in but there are two different sizes and they aren't even for my bike. he just grabbed them out of a drawer and tossed them my way.. So as of now I am running the stock needles.. if your running 150's I might need to go up from my 140's I am in Texas 600-800 feet above sea level. :suicide

Uuuuughh :facepalm That's your problem - PILOT'S. I fckn knew it..!!!What an jackass :hammer He gave you whatever he had laying on the shelf. That set up will absolutely positively NEVER work.. What a douche..! That saturated crap is coming from 2 & 3. The reading's I see for tuning above sea level start out at 2000' above before you should start leaning. So at 800' you should be able to get it in there close enough. Is that the 1100 you have...?

Uuuuughh :facepalm That's your problem - PILOT'S. I fckn knew it..!!!What an jackass :hammer He gave you whatever he had laying on the shelf. That set up will absolutely positively NEVER work.. What a douche..! That saturated crap is coming from 2 & 3. Is that the 1100 you have..?

YEP!! So you think the 35's are good just need all four to be non bleed?
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c169/nealhan/IMG_0228.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c169/nealhan/IMG_0227.jpg

Yea man.. Dump those center one's.. There's a place in Cedar Park Texas called PowerSport SuperStore.com. Cheap jet's. 4 buck's a piece Genuine Mikuni jet's. Hey those are not genuine mikuni main's. You might want to put the large round (or small,I can't tell from the pic ) mikuni main's in too.That could be part of the problem. Are there washer's underneath those main's..? I think there should be. Not sure - don't quote me. There are washer's on mine and washer's on the exploded view I looked at that's why I bring it up. Check the plug's and see which one's don't look right and there's your pilot rat... I have 35's pilot's and the 140's if you can't get them. But I'm sure they have them and for that price. That's a helluva lot cheaper than a jet kit and you already got everything else in place. Genuine Mikuni jet's have a sort of square stamp so you know they are factory.If those carb's are a hassle gettin on and off - I double up a couple of Q-tip's and spray some WD-40 on them and run them on the inside of the intake boot's. Pop those bad boy's right on. Sweeeeet.. Oh yea , keep in mind I have the 34mm carb's on mine. So for right now go with changing those pilot's. I'm sure you'll see a big difference.

So today I figured fuck it I am going to just tear the entire carb setup down and see WTF is going on and this what i get..... 350+ dollars worth of a rebuild my ass.. I am tired of getting ripped off.. There was so much trash in the carbs I don't even know how it was running..
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c169/nealhan/IMG_0230.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c169/nealhan/IMG_0229.jpg

Tell that guy :flipoff :bitchslap. That is pretty ugly but take it easy Neal and stop doing this :frantic..lol I have been right where you are. Mine had a carb kit in it - if you want to call it that - corroded and fkd from sitting. So that is what I tore out. I had to replace one of those tube's. Be careful puttin them back in. All they should need is a light/med tap. Line it up true. They're not cheap. This is what you need. Fine steel wool , tooth pick's or wooden scewer's , pipe cleaner's , a toothbrush , Q-tip's , clean rag's , compressor to blow that crap out good , plenty of Gumout , Wd-40 and maybe some kerosene to soak stuff in. What I did was take a zephyrhill's cardboard box lay out each of the carb's part's from top to bottom. Put all your screw's in a container "with a lid". Any really tiny hole's you can clean with a strand of speaker wire. Clean everywhere. Don't neglect where the slide's ride. You'll probably find alot of carbon. Don't get any carb cleaner on the diaphragm rubber :nono not good. WD it and wipe it clean. Go easy with the steel wool. You want it polished not all scored up. I also have a maginfying glass on a stand w/ light. Just get yourself a light you can put shit under and get a real good look. Keep everything clean clean clean including your paw's - use dem rag's..:biggrin

Tell that guy :flipoff :bitchslap. That is pretty ugly but take it easy Neal and stop doing this :frantic..lol

Yeah i am going to clean them up and get the right Jets. See how it goes.. I took the bike to the guys house to "tune" and the idle was jumpy... Turns out there was so much junk in the 4th carb that it wouldn't let the butterfly close all the way.. he was saying "there is an air leak somewhere" .. I need to get some cash to finish this bike.. Guess ill sell my 06 750 (65 hundred).. Its got rims n shit! lol
Thanks for the help Slabby!

That PowerSport Superstore is right there in texas. www.powersportsuperstore.com
If I can help you out ,even if it's a few jet's - let me know. I got mine the same way. Idle was screamin high with air leak's missed matched jet's.Gunked up the same way from sitting. Drove me freakin nutzzzz:banghead . Right now all you need is 6 jet's. Which I probably have, and a good cleaning. So get your war face on :chucks :burnout

OEM jet needles are not adjustable

Good luck,

oem ARE adjustable in all bst ss 36-38-40...

Where'd you find that:dunno. I've never seen an adjustable OEM needle. Unless they are racing carb's. Stock bike's do not come adjustable from the factory..????

Where'd you find that:dunno. I've never seen an adjustable OEM needle. Unless they are racing carb's. Stock bike's do not come adjustable from the factory..????

Well you can shim them.... however i wouldn't trust it..

:facepalm