I just bought an 11 gsxr 750 about a week ago. The main source of riding for me is a 63 mi. commute each way to work. I have about 350 miles on it and I figured I could call dealer and get service in a couple of days. The dealer says it would be a week for an appt. I said if I knew that I would have scheduled the service when i picked it up, his response was no big deal...I said for you maybe but for me it is because now I can't ride. He said don't worry if you go over a bit, no big deal. I was thinking for warranty issues this can not be good....so I guess I am screwed right? I guess I will use it sparingly until the appt.

You didn't say you had the extended warranty, but I'm guessing you do or you wouldn't be so concerned? Call any Suzuki dealership and they will tell you the same thing: a couple hundred miles over no big deal. Most will say no more than 850-1000 total miles though. I can't get my new 750 serviced for a couple weeks since they are back logged and I'm already at 650 miles.

Won't hurt. I did well over 800 on my k9 600 due to the same circumstances as yourself. If you did say 1600 miles then they might get the hump.

Thanks guys. Glad somebody else is in my shoes, and yes I did get the extended warranty. I guess we'll keep riding then!

My salesman told me NOT to bother coming in until around 1000 miles. I listened to his advice and I'm up to about 1500 with no problems so far.

I went 1200 before my first service for the same reason. They didn't even bat an eyelash when I brought it in. I had checked in before going over and they said as long as I wasn't going nuts on the bike, I'd be fine.

I am doing all my oil/filter changes myself with my new 750, as I have for the many other bikes I have owned over the years with zero warranty issues. I don't do it for cars, since it is dangerous and messy to crawl under a car, but bikes are so easy. I have a receipt for the genuine Suzuki oil, Suzuki oil filter, and oil filter wrench. The most common mistake garage mechanics make is not having the proper oil filter wrench, since the stock filter is often over-torqued at the factory and hard to remove. I will document the date and mileage in my owner's manual. I will replace the oil filter around 600 miles, the exact mileage is not that critical. The next oil changes (no oil filter change specified) are at 4000 and 7500 miles (you don't even have to remove the fairing if the oil filter is not changed). But did you know that the next oil filter change (after 600 miles) is not until 11000 miles. That seems like a long time to me. That is why I wanted to change that first one myself, take my time, and get it right, since that 600 mile filter is staying in there so long. I stocked up and have 4 oil filters, so I will probably change the oil filter at 4000 miles too. Dealers can be rushed sometimes. There can be nagging doubt sometimes if they really changed the oil filter. I guess you could write and "X" on the end of the stock oil filter with a silver Sharpy before you take her in. There is also major confusion regarding the old vs. new oil filter part numbers. I researched and got the info on that too.
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=303630&highlight=

There is another item that will likely need service at the 600 mile check: the clutch cable play. Also addressed in earlier posts of mine.
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=307871&highlight=

The cable can stretch during break in. My cable developed too much slack in the first 150 miles and the shifting action suffered. I had to take up major slack at the other end of the cable housing under the tank, where it was set at maximum slack. I also adjusted the internal clutch release adjusting screw which on the 750 (don't know about the 600) was increased from 1/2 turn out for K8/K9 to 1 full turn out for the L1. Suzuki changed the ramp on the slipper clutch for 2011. I own the hard copy GSX-R750 L1 service manual and have the free downloadable GSX-R750 K8-K9 PDF service manual and I noticed the change. Interestingly, my 750 L1 was set at 1/2 turn out at the factory and I don't know if that contributed to my shifting problem. I set it to 1 turn out and adjusted the cable and it now shifts great. Turning the clutch release adjusting screw indirectly changes the clutch cable slack, so you have to adjust the cable play after the screw adjustment. The clutch cable/adjusting screw adjustment section is 0B-14 in both manuals. The clutch lever should have 10 - 15 mm of play at the lateral ball end, as in the owner's manual. The ball is 20 mm in diameter for reference. Don't just look at the gap at the clutch lever near the pivot, that is not nearly as accurate. The symptom of too much cable slack is delayed clutch engagement after upshifting. You can often adjust the clutch cable play enough with the dial cable adjuster at the lever, but to take up major slack you need to turn the cable adjuster under the tank.

This is too much information is you are just going to take her in to the dealer for service, but I thought some of you might want to know.

Going over a couple hundred miles wont hurt.. but not to much.. Remember this is the oil from the factory, all the small metal shavings and castings and other material is in that oil.. I WOULD NOT GO THE ROUTE WILDRICE IS GOING.. i worked in the service dept at suzuki and yamaha and honda.. and there are alot more issues with a bike that has had the service done with out proper documentation... it doesnt take much to get some recepits.. major engine work really needs the paper work.. this is suppose to be your pride and joy, dont cheap ass it and do it your self when its under warrenty.. in my opinion if you cant afford the service then maybe you shouldve bought a cheaper bike.. and the silver X on a oil filter means nothing........... brake clean can take care of it... a small scribe with a screw driver that cant be seen really well works better.. but if you take it to a reputiable dealership then you wont have a problem..

Ive seen engine failure in a honda and the guy brought recipts saying he did all the services himself.. recipets showed syn oil...... reg mineral oil came out the bike.. they refused to fix the engine and it took forever for the guy to convince american honda to get it done and he ended up paying half.. in the end he got it done but waitied around 5 months to make it happen...... just do it at the shop and avoid a headache

Ive seen engine failure in a honda and the guy brought recipts saying he did all the services himself.. recipets showed syn oil...... reg mineral oil came out the bike.. they refused to fix the engine and it took forever for the guy to convince american honda to get it done and he ended up paying half.. in the end he got it done but waitied around 5 months to make it happen...... just do it at the shop and avoid a headache

I do everything I can myself. Because I'm fussier than the shop mechanic will ever be. They'll break small plastic fairing tabs, and just hope you don't notice. They'll fill fluids 'close-enough'. They'll put whatever brand oil in, I pick one I trust (Motul) and stick with it so that I can notice unusual changes. I'll let them do valve adjustments, dyno, tire changes cause I don't have those tools. Otherwise, no thanks. Same with my cars. I've never had an issue with warranty work being refused because I did my own services. Not from Suzuki, Honda, Ford, Chrysler, Yamaha or VW. I've never even had to show receipts. They can tell, just as you can tell when the work was or wasn't done, and done properly.

BTW, I don't know what Suzuki's rationale is, but I'm changing the oil filter with every oil change. It's too cheap not to.

I case you haven't noticed, I am very meticulous and thorough, probably more so than a rushed mechanic with two dozens bike on his schedule. I will perform the first oil and filter change when it is best to do so at 600 miles, not at the convenience of the dealership. I will also change the oil filter at 4000 miles, eventhough the manual says not to. I already know the trick about removing the side fairing without breaking the tabs, but a rushed mechanic might just rip them off. There are other things on the scheduled maintenance list I will check too (I have the 2011 L1 Service Manual), it is just that the oil and filter change are the most important item after break in. If Suzuki didn't want owners to change their own oil, they would not have put it in the owners manual. Like Dovecom, I leave the valve adjustments and tire changes (I take the wheel off myself) to the dealership.

I am not saying doing your own oil changes is for everybody, but it works for me. I have never had warranty claim problems with any of my many previous bikes. By the way, the Suzuki one year warranty is darned lousy. After one year, most owners will be on their own anyway, so why not know your bike and take care of the minor maintenance chores yourself? You would think Suzuki would have enough faith in their motorcycle products to have a longer warranty. My Suzuki car has a standard 10 year engine and drive train warranty and a valve timing chain that never needs to be replaced.

Major thing is to just change the oil, which only takes 5 minutes. The oil filter is a bitch, get the tools for that. (I got a belt that didn't work, I had to get the cap) I didnt have to remove my fairings to get to it. There's really no excuse to change the oil itself, take bolt out of bottom of bike, put it back in once oil is out. Put 2.3q in. Sorry if this has already been said in the thread, just the oil change is the easiest thing and the most important. I also like to take off the METAL SHAVINGS on the magnet of the oil case bolt.

600 miles is usually a target. The dealers around us (regardless of brand) all say 600-1000 miles. And as stated, if you can do it yourself, change your oil and filter. Give the bike a good look. Check for loose nuts or bolts, check your coolant level, chain slack, tire pressures (you do that already right?) etc. Should be good to go....


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dude i took my bike up to 1150 miles before the first service. i called the dealer and they said $280.00 and i was like wtf? for what? then he started ranting off about things they do. i laughed! and said to my self this is bullshit. i can do that all myself. so i went to them and got all the things i needed. (tip) take your manual with you. usually they are to slow to know what you need exactly. and the service guys seemed a little irritated and were trying to push me to get it done with them. took me about 10 minutes to do it myself. and yes it was the first time i ever did it. it is very easy. just one thing if you do take it up that high before you service you'll notice it not running as smooth as usual. and my oil was a bit dirty i cant lie. had alot of dust. but anyway 10 minutes later and only $45.00 coming out of my pocket rather than $280.00 was a win win situation! goodluck. and it does not say anywhere in your manual that if you do your own service that your warranty will be voided. ohh yeah and make sure to check all bolts, chain, fluids and etc.

yea, buddy, you got nothing to worry about.

Going over a couple hundred miles wont hurt.. but not to much.. Remember this is the oil from the factory, all the small metal shavings and castings and other material is in that oil.. I WOULD NOT GO THE ROUTE WILDRICE IS GOING.. i worked in the service dept at suzuki and yamaha and honda..

If you've worked in the service department surely you know the bikes are checked on a dyno, the oil is then drained and the filter changed. When the bikes are PDI'd, new oil is put in so the first service is in actual fact the second service.

If you've worked in the service department surely you know the bikes are checked on a dyno, the oil is then drained and the filter changed. When the bikes are PDI'd, new oil is put in so the first service is in actual fact the second service.


This is a common misconception.. numerous bikes ive pulled out of the box already have fluids minus fuel in the bike and usually needs the battery filled and charged.. some models didnt as they was drained after start up.. but everything i know about the suzuki assembly line, and granted its not alot, does not include a "oil change" once the bike has been dyno'ed..

http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery-turbo/14022-twist-the-throttle-the-suzuki-motorcycles-factory-video.htm

now im not saying this is the end all be all of the assembly line.. but given the bulletins and stuff working at the dealership nothing has ever been said that they changed the oil.. and that dyno run is not an all out run to the redline.. usually a 30, 50, 80 mph check and to warm up to make sure everything is runung right..

also these cats that are saying they have no issues with getting warrenty work done are probably right.. with none engine issues.. suzuki or any other dealership is not going to have a problem fixing a chain issue, or a fork issue, or a electrical issue becuase you didnt change your oil there.. but let that engine go out @ 7k and see if they dont question you service records.. do a search on here more then one thread about it and the problems they are having trying to get work done..

Im not saying you cant do it and you will lose the warrenty.. its not true you can do all the work yourself and keep your own records.. I WOULDNT.. i happen to know my tech that works on the bike... we ride together we go to bike nights and the track.. i trust him to do the right things..

When working at the dealership have i ever short cutted services before... yes and no.. all the proper services was done.. ie oil change chain adjust, carb sync, throttle body sync, cable adjustments, battery tests, coolant checks and the like... did i break out the torque wrench on every service .......... no.......... i didnt go over every nut and bolt with it grabed a 10, 12, 14mm wrench and made sure the stuff was tight.. sounds like some people need to get to know the techs around thier shop, and make sure its a reputiable shop at that... after my service i went over the bike checked everything out, but i know that if i have a major issue that they will fix it no questions asked with out a doubt in my mind there wont be a issue....... i promise if you do the work yourself, and just bring up your book saying you did the work.... there will be questions asked...

this is suppose to be your pride and joy, dont cheap ass it and do it your self when its under warrenty.. in my opinion if you cant afford the service then maybe you shouldve bought a cheaper bike.. and the silver X on a oil filter means nothing........... brake clean can take care of it... a small scribe with a screw driver that cant be seen really well works better..

I suggested writing an "X" on the original oil filter just for piece of mind if an owner opts to take his motorcycle in for all servicing. But since you said an authorized shop mechanic would be so unscrupulous as to wipe the "X" off with brake cleaner rather than change the oil filter, that just reinforces my opinion that to really take care of my pride and joy, I should just perform the oil and filter changes myself. Thank you for convincing me.

I suggested writing an "X" on the original oil filter just for piece of mind if an owner opts to take his motorcycle in for all servicing. But since you said an authorized shop mechanic would be so unscrupulous as to wipe the "X" off with brake cleaner rather than change the oil filter, that just reinforces my opinion that to really take care of my pride and joy, I should just do it myself. Thank you for convincing me.


if your taking your bike to a questionable place then the paint marker wont help anything.. thats why a small bearly noticable scribe would be much better at catching a crooked shop... my shops i worked at never did things like this, but i have seen it done.. hence the whole getting to know your tech goes along ways

I find the convenience factor of doing it myself and using AMS oil making all worth while in me doing it myself. I've been doing this with all my bikes and that is a lot of years/bikes. note: I did not run over the 600 mile 1st, or my required 2nd or 3rd change. there was a 3rd oil change after track day and felt the trany getting a bit notchy.

If it were me, and this is just my personal opinion.....If the bike was under warranty I would still get ripped by the dealer just in case. You never know what might happen, and if they did the service, they have no outs and have to replace it (if anything were to happen). With that being said, always always check their work, they do brake stuff. When I went in for the recall on my bike they broke 4 tabs on the fairing and fairing plug, and since me and my buddy were standing outside watching him do our bikes, they had to make it right. Now im not saying you have to stand there and watch, but its good practice when you get it back look it over, feel the fairings, check fluid levels ect just in case before you leave.

Its sad to say but I take my bike to the Honda dealer near me. It is run by a group of older brothers, and one of the brothers is the service guy. You can tell they truly care and enjoy bikes, and they are very reputable, and honest. I would trust them completely with my bike, not something I could say for any of the Suzuki dealers around me.

How serious is it that you can't go over 7500 RPM before your first 600 mile oil change? I just bought a new 2011 GSXR 600 and for the first 150 miles I drove under 7500 RPM... but then I just couldn't stand it any more, so I went on a ride with my friends and opened it up. I was rideing at 10,000-11,000 RPM (about 100-120 MPH). Is this damaging to the bike?