i got 1 that should be fairly easy.thanks in advance for the help.

96,750,carbed

i hit the start button and the solenoid does 1 click and i loose power to the gauge cluster,and headlights.

with the ignition still on and not holding the start button the headlight is barely barely on.

i have voltage to the relay and both fuses are still good.the battery is fine

also sometimes after i turn the ignition off and turn it back on i have no power to the ignition..nothing lights up including the headlights.

what do u guys think it could be???

Sounds like a poor earth if you have good power to the solenoid. Try looping a jump lead from the battery to the motor/frame. I've had a few of the earth cables go down.
That's where I'd start on that one, 1st thing to rule out.
Thanks,
Daz.
Meltedsliders Ltd

Do you have over 12 volts at the battery? Hmm sometimes power sometimes none check the green plug under the tank by the head stem also check the yellow plug under the left fairing. Also you can check the bat voltage with the key on and when you crank see whAt the numbers are.

Yes there's is 12v at the batt..I'll have to check those connectors and also check batt voltage with the key on.i checked the solenoid and I'm pretty sure its toast. i ran 12v to terminal 1 & 2 and it didn't click at all.

with the key off i get 12.4
with key on 11.8
hit start button 2.3 and lose all power and the voltage flickers 2-3v until the key is turned off.

That's some major voltage drop. How old is the battery?

my guess would be a bad battery or a bad starter

Still suggest you check the ground between the battery and the motor. Volt meter puts no load on the circuit, so will show high volts, but when you load it with a starter, the connection will fail.
Daz.
Meltedsliders Ltd

That's some major voltage drop. How old is the battery?

the battery is almost a year old.i might as well have it checked too.

i was thinking it could possibly be the starter too. maybe its grounding itself out which causes the voltage to stay low with the key on.but if i'm not getting a click from the relay with 12v applied then i lean more towards the relay.but the part that's confusing is it will click 1 time with everything hooked up normally but with a bench test it doesn't click at all.hopefully i don't have a combination of problems. I'll check it over again tonight and see what happens. :scratch

Still suggest you check the ground between the battery and the motor. Volt meter puts no load on the circuit, so will show high volts, but when you load it with a starter, the connection will fail.
Daz.
Meltedsliders Ltd

I'll check it as well but i really don't believe that's the issue.

Even if the ground is not working, you should still have a good voltage of 10.5 or more at the battery when you try and start it.

I would guess that you have a bad cell in the battery. If it was me, I would jump it from a car battery and see if she fires.

John

well damn....now i have no power at the ignition.i turn the key and nothing happens. the batt has good voltage, i cleaned the green and yellow plug with electrical cleaner.all of my fuses have been triple checked.

:scratch do u think its my ignition???

also shouldn't my relay click with 12v applied???

check your fuses, if they are good try hooking up a car battery.

ok i checked my fuses and they are all good.i cant jump it with a car batt because i cant get any power thru the ignition.the starter is fine i bench tested it.the batt is holding 12.6v. i cleaned the green and yellow connector with contact cleaner and still nothing.....if somebody could point me in the right direction i would def appreciate it. :banghead

you have the service manual? go threw the wire diagram.. start chasing the power from the battery to the ignition to the rest the bike. see where you fall short. there is a resistor in the ignition that sends less then 12v to the cdi i thing as a anti theft.. bypass the ignition and the cdi will not get that feed threw the resistor and the bike will not start. under your tail on the left side the bike check out the stator plug then the plug up to the rectifier... that can be a pain too but shouldn't cause the no power issue you have. i dont think.

you have the service manual? go threw the wire diagram.. start chasing the power from the battery to the ignition to the rest the bike. see where you fall short. there is a resistor in the ignition that sends less then 12v to the cdi i thing as a anti theft.. bypass the ignition and the cdi will not get that feed threw the resistor and the bike will not start. under your tail on the left side the bike check out the stator plug then the plug up to the rectifier... that can be a pain too but shouldn't cause the no power issue you have. i dont think.

yeah i have the manual but i cant see it clear.im going to download the 1 on rains sig. so i can see the wiring diagram in pdf hopefully.

so is that resistor replaceable?? is it possible for the igniton to be bench tested? other than swapping with another bike...My wiring coming from the rectifier is hard wired.

is it possible its just a bad ignition?? or cdi??? or ectifier

Also..shouldnt the solenoid click with 12v going direct to the terminals??? b/c if so mine does not click.....but even if that was the problem my igniton shoud still come on

Hmm have you checked the ground at the starter also. When I had my starter off the bolt with the ground on it was all white with corrosion. I cleaned it up just to be sure.

[QUOTE=TT750;4953584]Hmm have you checked the ground at the starter also. When I had my starter off the bolt with the ground on it was all white with corrosion. I cleaned it up just to be sure.[/QUOTE

that wire has been checked.there's no corrosion.

i went out again this morning b4 work and when i turned the key on everything came on as normal. i have the starter off the bike still so i couldn't try to turn it over.so when i get home we shall see what happens.i found a complete harness on craigslist so im going to try and work out a decent price and possibly go pick it up.my harness has been butchered over the years.

im going to try and get my lil red r next friday too.

Hey I had the same problem you have and may have an answer to your starting problem. I went to the extent of replacing my computer and starter relay and same problem... My problem started after a ride in the canyons in my area. I got home and left my bike out on the street and when I went to go put the bike in the garage my lights were dim and bike wouldn't crank over. I pushed it in the garage and hooked up my car battery charger to it and still wouldn't start. As soon as I turned the key on I could hear my starter relay clicking. I have an engine start setting on my charger that cranks up amperage to about 250+ amps and as soon as I hit the start button it would short out. So I thought I had some type of electrical problem. I checked my rectifier and found the ground wire had fried. It seems that my voltage regulator wasn't limiting the voltage. I assumed it fried my computer. Cause as soon as I turned the switch on it would click like crazy. And when I disconnect the smaller connector to the ecu it would stop. So I found a used ecu on eBay and hooked it up and same thing... I had the battery charger hooked up and made sure I had more than 12.8 volts and every time I went to hit the start button it would drop to 2-3 volts. Only when I would put the charger on engine start that I sometimes would get it to crank with good speed. But at that point it still wouldn't start. I checked for spark at the coils and found intermittent no spark. I checked my signal generator and it checked okay. I had the original battery and charged that up and same thing. I suspected my starter relay and got another on and same thing! I did eventually got it to fire up and run but as soon as I tried to rearset it I wouldn't get any spark from the coils. I was so frustrated with it and kept studying the wiring diagram to see where my short could be coming from. But one night I put my newer battery on the charger and put it on auto charge at 2 amps I would find the charger say check battery. Usually my charger will charge it up and stop when it was fully charged. But this time it wouldn't get past 8v so I took it back to where I bought it and since it had a lifetime warranty they replaced it no questions asked... They took my old battery and tested it and it only had 2 cranking amps... Sorry for the Long story but even though you may have 12v to the battery terminals it might not be able to supply enough cranking amps to start your bike. I ended up buying a computer and starter relay to find out that the main problem was that my battery just failed. As for you not having power when the switch is on check out the connector under the left side fairing it has a rubber cover over this connector. It's the largest connector on that side of the wiring harness. Check the thick black with red tracer wire and make sure it is making good contact with the other side of the harness. On my bike I would sometimes lose power the the gauges. Try wiggling the harness and see if you get power back to the gauges. I would tug on mine and it would turn on. I finally found two areas that was making false contacts. I repaired mine by soldering the wires together but you can also use butt connectors and crimp them together. Start with a fresh battery first before throwing money on other parts. I had to learn the hard way. What I didn't understand was why It wouldn't start even with the charger on and it would pull the voltage way low with the charger on. So I didn't suspect the battery. I though maybe my starter was shorting out but when I installed my spare starter it would do the same thing. So I hope this helps you out cause I know how frustrating it is. Good luck and hope to hear good news soon. Cheers mate!

like i already said to check stator and rr wiring and plugs

@ highend....i think your problemm is similar but different but thanks for the input.....my new starter should be here tomorrow finally.hopefully thats my problem but im going to test my batt tomorrow as well just to see.since its still under warranty.

@tt...i havent checked any of that yet but if it doesnt work tomorrow i'll check those.but my r/r is already hard wired(no plug).can my r/r be bench tested????

Solder all the main battery cables to the crimp connectors. Made a HUGE difference in mine.

John

it was the batt :bitchslap :banghead..

i would've thought since i had 12.4 at the terminals that it was good.another lesson learned.i had 3 days left on my free replacement warranty so at least i lucked out there :biggrin.but anyhow i upgraded to a "better batt" for $20 more and it has a 2year free repl. warranty.

:cheers

I would also make sure to solder the connections like I said above. It is a GREAT help to the bike when running into hot start problems and SHOULD make the battery last longer since it will not over tax the battery trying to start the bike with a big voltage drop.

John