I am need of a little bit of help from someone out there....

I'm planning on putting a set of k3 1000 headers on my 750 SRAD but want to check that the pipes should fit without too much hassle (Recently moved and now have no garage so all work done in my back garden :crying) when I start to pull the fairings etc off (will no doubt rain just as everything's apart!!)

I want to double check where the pipes mount to the engine and also the width of the pipes under the sump (In the pic).

I've got 280mm (11") for the top and around 190mm (7 1/2") for the bottom part where the middle pipes join with the tab + bolt.

I know it can be done as I've seen a few posts about people who have, just want to be sure what I need to do before I start

should of got the full exhaust i posted that was on ebay ;)

You will need a K5 link pipe (after market easier), and cut some of you bottom fairing out. Sump clearance isnt a problem.

You will loose the use of you frame mount just behind you foot peg. Just make sure you have a good end can support.

TT, good one (P+P??)!! was looking at a few but I got a good deal on the 1000 pipes.

YZ, no need for a link pipe as I've got a small slash cut GP pipe that will only stick out of the fairing by about 6".

Does the fairing need trimming where the pipe come out by the footpeg?? Will need to try and sort some sort of bracket to fit where the srad pipes mounted to as that will be the only support other than to the block.

are you increasing the air intake as well? k3 1000 pipes are wider than the 750 pipes right - allow for more exhaust flow? Wouldn't you need the air intake to match as well for optimum performance?

Haven't got that far yet to be honest???

The pipes fit straight onto the engine and they are the same diameter for the entire length so would they not be the same size as standard??

What would be best way to increase air flow??

ah no worries then if they are the same diameter for the entire length. I was just thinkin like if you are sucking in a certain amount of air, then that amount has to be leaving the motor to prevent backfiring or loss of back pressure etc etc :dunno

I always assumed the pipes were wider because of the larger engine meaning there is more exhaust gas to move.

so what's the benefit of this mod? Kinda like with cars - when you get an aftermarket header - you usually get the aftermarket exhaust...along with increasing the air intake. (bigger pipes = more air flow)

More for looks than anything to be honest. Really like the look of these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GENUINE-SUZUKI-2007-GSXR1000-K7-YOSHIMURA-EXHAUST-YOSHI-/350038052085?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item517fe4ccf5

but not so keen on the price!!

Not seen many srads with the gp style pipe (Of either style, think there was one on the photo's thread with a slash cut pipe?? but none with the yoshi style) so fancied giving it a go!!

Will wait and see, is supposedly a dry day tomorrow so will have a bash and see how it goes!!!!

Yes you will need to trim were the pipe leaves by the foot peg,or shim out the body work.

With a pipe that short you will need to re-jet big time as you will have a hole in your power lower down. Dont worry about the air box they work well, just throw in a K&N. You can improve the stock air in take tubes by plastic welding up the bottoms were they droop down (buldge) so they are more staright through.

Dont get hung up to much on pipe dimensions as there are so many variables, cams head profiles ig timing etc etc (but thats a whole other debate) unless your running a race team! Throw them on and and get on a Dyno, try a before and after so you can see what a cut down pipe realy does to the power!

I run a full Akro K5 thou system on mine, shorter than stock but designed like that. Will show when it eventualy gets rebuilt to XR0 spec/ish if I dont go bankrupt first!

Took a bit longer than I thought to get the ALLEN (WTF, why use these and not good old bolts!!!) bolts out of the block.

YZ, I have got stage 1 jets I believe (Were in when I got the bike so not too sure??) and a K+N. The trick for the air tubes sounds great!! Will give me more room for the ballast etc for the HID's too so a win win situation.

The current pipe fits VERY snugly coming out from the belly pan and the bottom of the main fairing will need sone careful trimming so it meets at the bottom (And so they don't melt too!!!). Next dry day I'm off will have to go out for a ride and see how the power feels. Then I think a trip to the dyno is a good idea when I have a mot exhaust too so I can get a good balance with the both (If that can be done??)

It sounds awesome, probably too loud for my small court yard. Only been here 1 month so I guess I will have lots of good friends very soon........:dunno

Let me know what you think, will need to get a link pipe and can for mot time. But I like the open look of the bike now.

damn looks sweet.

what is that on your headlight?

It's a headlight protector.

Got solid black so when you catch it front on it looks like a track fairing. Also help stop the stone chips, honest officer!!!

http://i52.tinypic.com/15ps8rk.png
Just FYI, your axle adjuster block is backwards. The thick lip should be forward on this block, the other sides block has only one thin lip...and it goes forward too. If you have the other side correct and this one backward, then your axle will be crooked as the hole is bored off center in the blocks, and will result in the axle crooked, if you use the alignment marks on the swingarm. Your service manual, owners manual, and every old magazine I own from that era has it the other way. Run the axle from left to right (preferred by racers) or right to left as you wish.

http://i52.tinypic.com/15ps8rk.png
Just FYI, your axle adjuster block is backwards. The thick lip should be forward on this block, the other sides block has only one thin lip...and it goes forward too. If you have the other side correct and this one backward, then your axle will be crooked as the hole is bored off center in the blocks, and will result in the axle crooked, if you use the alignment marks on the swingarm. Your service manual, owners manual, and every old magazine I own from that era has it the other way. Run the axle from left to right (preferred by racers) or right to left as you wish.

rider's left to right?

Guess it would be the opposite to the way mine runs, chain side to brake side n

Probably ended up putting the blocks back on the wrong way when I changed the caliper.

They are both the same way or I'm guessing I would have been crabing down the road. Lol.

Guess it would be the opposite to the way mine runs, chain side to brake side n

Probably ended up putting the blocks back on the wrong way when I changed the caliper.

They are both the same way or I'm guessing I would have been crabing down the road. Lol.

I am not sure you are understanding me, and I have not seen a picture of the drive side block.
The block in the picture is backward (should have thicker lip forward and thin one facing rearward).
The block on the drive side(not pictured) has a side with a thin lip (identical to the lip that is incorrectly mounted forward in this picture) on one side and no lip on the other. Unlike the side pictured here, the other side SHOULD have the thin lip forward.
It causes significant wear and stress on the chain and sprockets, but the handling effect is hard to notice in street riding...

The bolt hole is NOT bored in the center of the blocks, and the orientation matters. If you do not think so, remove them as you have them and set the two blocks on a flat surface, with the sides you have rearward, down on the table, then put the axle in and measure the drop in the axle.

rider's left to right?

In stock form the axle runs from right to left (all perspectives should be from the rear) with the nut mounted on the left side. Racers and trackriders ofter reverse it to orient the axle nut on the right side. There are two gains from this; the nut is protected by the exhaust in case of a get-off and will be easier to remove than a ground down nut after a slide. And, tightening the nut on the side opposite the chain has a few benefits....you are now tightening the axle nut against the adjuster bolt, rather than away from it which makes it less likely to change your adjustment as you tighten it. Ever set your adjuster blocks and bolts and then tightened the nut and found your chain tension to be different than what it was before you tightened it.....moving the nut to the right side eliminates some of that from occuring.

I am not sure you are understanding me, and I have not seen a picture of the drive side block.
The block in the picture is backward (should have thicker lip forward and thin one facing rearward).
The block on the drive side(not pictured) has a side with a thin lip (identical to the lip that is incorrectly mounted forward in this picture) on one side and no lip on the other. Unlike the side pictured here, the other side SHOULD have the thin lip forward.
It causes significant wear and stress on the chain and sprockets, but the handling effect is hard to notice in street riding...

The bolt hole is NOT bored in the center of the blocks, and the orientation matters. If you do not think so, remove them as you have them and set the two blocks on a flat surface, with the sides you have rearward, down on the table, then put the axle in and measure the drop in the axle.

I did think I was getting you, but now I have checked you are right my wheel is crooked.

This would go to explain me thinking my rear brakes are useless though as I'm guessing as the disc was slightly off true the pads wouldn't grip enough until worn down to an angle like the old ones??

Top man for the spot, luckily I have only done about 40 miles since putting then on wrong so all being well no lasting damage....

If I switch the axle over the block simply change side right?? (But still go the ay round you said!!)

Took a bit longer than I thought to get the ALLEN (WTF, why use these and not good old bolts!!!) bolts out of the block.

YZ, I have got stage 1 jets I believe (Were in when I got the bike so not too sure??) and a K+N. The trick for the air tubes sounds great!! Will give me more room for the ballast etc for the HID's too so a win win situation.

The current pipe fits VERY snugly coming out from the belly pan and the bottom of the main fairing will need sone careful trimming so it meets at the bottom (And so they don't melt too!!!). Next dry day I'm off will have to go out for a ride and see how the power feels. Then I think a trip to the dyno is a good idea when I have a mot exhaust too so I can get a good balance with the both (If that can be done??)

It sounds awesome, probably too loud for my small court yard. Only been here 1 month so I guess I will have lots of good friends very soon........:dunno

Let me know what you think, will need to get a link pipe and can for mot time. But I like the open look of the bike now.

This brembo caliper from?

In stock form the axle runs from right to left (all perspectives should be from the rear) with the nut mounted on the left side. Racers and trackriders ofter reverse it to orient the axle nut on the right side. There are two gains from this; the nut is protected by the exhaust in case of a get-off and will be easier to remove than a ground down nut after a slide. And, tightening the nut on the side opposite the chain has a few benefits....you are now tightening the axle nut against the adjuster bolt, rather than away from it which makes it less likely to change your adjustment as you tighten it. Ever set your adjuster blocks and bolts and then tightened the nut and found your chain tension to be different than what it was before you tightened it.....moving the nut to the right side eliminates some of that from occuring.

ah - gotcha.

When the axle is flipped - do you flip the blocks or just their orientation?

ah - gotcha.

When the axle is flipped - do you flip the blocks or just their orientation?

The right adjuster block moves with the head of the axle to the left side, and vice versa......simple really as the axle adjuster block captures the head of the axle by design, and the opposite side is designed to allow the axle nut room, you really couldn't mount the axle without switching the blocks too. It is just important not to do what the other fellow did, as it results in a crooked axle.

:cheers

yea that's why whenever I have to take my rear tire off, I leave everything that comes off on the left side, on the ground on the left side and the same with the right. Can't get anything confused that way.

Kind of like the idea of flipping the axel. May be doing that when I sort the blocks over the weekend.

satanic_masta, its a standard brembo on a crescent hanger, quite hard to come by though. If you google there is a guy who has a specialist busa website who does them. And Harris do them for the K1 that fit also.