Ok so the other day I took my rear caliper off to check the pads(which btw is no good). But ever since that day I have no rear brakes. I have bled them and all that is coming out of the bleeder is fluid, but I still have no brakes and the caliper is not even compressing. Someone told me I needed a special tool which sounds stupid to me because I never needed one on a car. Is that true??? Now I also think I bottomed out the MC which could of blown that to hell. Now unfortunatly I have to get rid of my fat arsed beauty so I am trying to make it safe and look a little better. I have to do fork oil seals, dust seals, rear tire, rear & front brakes, anyone know where I can get them cheaper than the local DS. Oh and do you think I should just get a whole used/new brake setup???

Thanks in advanced,
Dave

Bleeding the rear is a PITA

Ok thx I figured that out. But that still don't answer the questioon. lol But thanks for the.....uhhhh..... info. lmao

Pictures of it.?
It sounds like there is something installed incorrectly.

John

I will takwe them later I'm drunk ioff my ass. an again thx in advanced

i had no problems bleeding mine, i honestly didn't even know that i had to bleed brakes after pad install. well i would just pump mine, then open the valve and a little air would come out, are you sure you have brake fluid in there? lol

It's more a game of patience then complexity.
A mity-vac will make life easier or the poor mans mity-vac a.k.a. the turkey baster will aid in brake bleeding as well.

i had no problems bleeding mine, i honestly didn't even know that i had to bleed brakes after pad install. well i would just pump mine, then open the valve and a little air would come out, are you sure you have brake fluid in there? lol

Technically...you DON'T have to bleed brakes after a pad install.
Just pump a few times till everything is seated and back into operating position.
You may need to add/remove fluid so maybe a fluid change/bleeding should be part of the regiment as well?

Did you disconnect the line to replace the pads??

If so there may be no fluid around the pistons, with the caplier disconnected from the carrier turn it upside down and put a 5mm allen key in between the pads and open the bleed nipple (maybe 2 on the stock caliper) and pump a few times.

Once done re-install and you should be good.......

Quote: "Did you disconnect the line to replace the pads?"
Why, Oh why, would anyone do that? Totally unnecessary.

Agreed!!!

But he does start "Ok so the other day I took my rear caliper off to check the pads"

Not the way I would check mine!!! (But I don't claim to be an expert)

From the sounds of his problems though.............

Agreed!!!

But he does start "Ok so the other day I took my rear caliper off to check the pads"

Not the way I would check mine!!! (But I don't claim to be an expert)

From the sounds of his problems though.............

Ahhh...Yes...he DID say that, didn't he.
I'm thinking he took the caliper off the bracket though not completely off the bike.

Ok so the other day I took my rear caliper off to check the pads(which btw is no good). But ever since that day I have no rear brakes. I have bled them and all that is coming out of the bleeder is fluid, but I still have no brakes and the caliper is not even compressing. Someone told me I needed a special tool which sounds stupid to me because I never needed one on a car. Is that true??? Now I also think I bottomed out the MC which could of blown that to hell. Now unfortunatly I have to get rid of my fat arsed beauty so I am trying to make it safe and look a little better. I have to do fork oil seals, dust seals, rear tire, rear & front brakes, anyone know where I can get them cheaper than the local DS. Oh and do you think I should just get a whole used/new brake setup???

Thanks in advanced,
Dave

F.W.I.W...REAR calipers on a car DO require a special tool to retract the pistons that the front calipers do not require.
The pistons must be turned in order to compress/retract them! That is due to the E-brakes operation.
That is probably what that person was referring to?
Your gsxr requires no such tool though!

F.W.I.W...REAR calipers on a car DO require a special tool to retract the pistons that the front calipers do not require.
The pistons must be turned in order to compress/retract them!
That is probably what that person was referring to?
Your gsxr requires no such tool though!


Guess thats similar to the rear RSVR brembo I have?

Its got solid pistons with 2 small holes i that release the pistons.

The 2 small holes may be for the tool to lock into.

I "losened" the line because I could not get the pistons to go back in so I losened it and push the pistons in. I can take pics of the whole system and post them so maybe someone can tell me something, but I did like just take it off the bracket not all the way off the line

By loosening the line you have let air into an airtight system!:nono

Ok I don't mean to sound rude with this but it is what it is. Sorry.

That makes perfect sense srad, but now, HOW THE HELL DO I GET IT OUT. lol

Ok I don't mean to sound rude with this but it is what it is. Sorry.

That makes perfect sense srad, but now, HOW THE HELL DO I GET IT OUT. lol

Lather...Rinse...Repeat!
(a.k.a. pump & bleed)
You can also back bleed the system with a mity-vac or a turkey baster but I sense these methods are not for you.

Lather...Rinse...Repeat!
(a.k.a. pump & bleed)
You can also back bleed the system with a mity-vac or a turkey baster but I sense these methods are not for you.

What do you mean "not for me".

Anyway besides the point idk what he did because I got pissed and walked away but my father did something with the MC and I have full rear brakes now. Oh an I did not ealize that there were two bleeder nipples on the rear. One on the front n one on the back. I did not ever notice that.

Did you disconnect the line to replace the pads??

If so there may be no fluid around the pistons, with the caplier disconnected from the carrier turn it upside down and put a 5mm allen key in between the pads and open the bleed nipple (maybe 2 on the stock caliper) and pump a few times.

Once done re-install and you should be good.......
no but when you change pads you gotta open up the caliper, once you crack it into 2 halfs some air gets in, and i bled mine

no but when you change pads you gotta open up the caliper, once you crack it into 2 halfs some air gets in, and i bled mine

Uhmmmm Not really.
You should not ever have to open the system to change pads. If you just push the pistons back into the caliper the fluid will push back into the master cyl resi...

John

that was the only way to take the pads off, there's a pin that goes through the pads so you do have to crack the caliper in half

Uhmmm, no... Funny thing. I have replaced the rear pads on mine a few times, also many other bikes including SRADs and NEVER had to crack it open. I think there is something a miss here.

John

gsxr- freak how did you replace the brake pads without craking open the caliper and pushing the pistons back. Is there a way to to remove the brake pads without removing the pin/rod that goes through them? I would like to know how to do this

Thanks

Here is the exploded view of the setup..
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/39/Year/1998/ModelID/6805/Model/GSX-R750/GroupID/290120/Group/REAR_CALIPER

Ok, so from what I remember (it has only been about 5 years since I have done pads on the SRAD so cut me SOME slack here... lol )

1) the axle from the rim so you can drop the caliper off the rotor (you could unbolt it from the bracket but I find they are very tight from the heat and you will likely need to adjust your chain anyhow)
2) use a flat head screw driver to pry open the pads, pushing the pistons back into the caliper.
3) remove the plastic cover #8
4) remove the two clips #5
5) remove the clip #7
6) Slide the two pins #6 out.
7) remove pads.
8) reverse the steps with the new pads in place.

No need to open the system at all.

John

True That...Use the pads as a pry point to retract the pistons.
Fluid moves back to reservoir then back into caliper when new pads are installed and pedal is pumped to seat new pads.
E-Z as that!