Hi all,

I'm looking at picking up an '02 GSX-R 1000 and was wondering if there are any known issues that can plague this model?

I've just come off a Honda VTR1000 Superhawk and this model is a bit prone to regulator rectifier and cam chain tensioner failures. I actually had my rectifier die in the time that I had it and changed the tensioners to a manual APE brand as a precaution in case the OEM ones crapped out on me.

Any insight would be awesome,

Thanks guys

Welcome from another newby.The only problem
that I'm aware of is LOTS of speeding tickets.
I've had my 1000 01 for 4 years,and I've never
had a problem with it.
The fuel tank range can be a bit annoying,anywhere
between 100-140,depending on how you ride.
Rag the shit out off it everywhere and you won't
see many miles to the tank.

Nothing that I can think of outside of general maint. The SET valve actuator will take a dump eventually if it hasn't already but other than that they are tough as nails! 47,000 + miles on mine and runs as good now as the day I brought it home many many many thousands of miles ago. 40 of them to be exact. It does finally need new rotors but that could easily be the track abuse they have seen, no fault of the bikes. Other than that, simple maint is all I've done. Valves checked once at 33k, one out of spec. Suspension rebuilt this spring, it's 2nd chain and sprocket set is finally starting to show age, plugs at 30 some thousand, stock clutch. Buy it and ride the hell out of it. Keeping the front end on the ground in 1st is really the only problem with it and it's not what I would call a problem. :biggrin

Awesome thanks for the feedback, sounds like the bike for me!!!:D

Great bike, stuff all to go wrong with it, I've got 2.

On some bikes the clutch can get snatchy and inconsistent in its hook-up. It's an easy fix, about $20, so if you test ride one and everything seems ok but for a grabby/snatchy clutch don't worry.

See this thread for clutch fix info, it's easy to do yourself, don't bother with a dealer....

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140539&highlight=k1+k4+clutch+fix

Had mine for 4yrs now and not let me down yet. Sometimes the Fi light pops up, due to the set valve motor, but that only really happens if the battery gets weak. Otherwise completely bulletproof.

Tires, they don't last long

Tires, they don't last long


Haha picked her up yesterday and in the market for a new rear now. Been out all day for her first ride. :punk

About to watch the Oz GP and probably get excited and head back out!!!

I have had mine nearly six years now and nothing gone wrong, :cheers I got the usual 46 error :hammer but a resetting of the SET valve and never looked back, Its time for the valve clearences to be checked now and maybe i could do with the rear shock rebuilt but its not something that has to be done :cheers

An awsome bike at a great price I have never looked back

these years consistantly have issues with the kickstand switch.

The 01-04 1000's have had issues with the front-main wiring harness corroding.

Hi all,

I'm looking at picking up an '02 GSX-R 1000 and was wondering if there are any known issues that can plague this model?

I've just come off a Honda VTR1000 Superhawk and this model is a bit prone to regulator rectifier and cam chain tensioner failures. I actually had my rectifier die in the time that I had it and changed the tensioners to a manual APE brand as a precaution in case the OEM ones crapped out on me.

Any insight would be awesome,

Thanks guys

The Ti coating on the forks wears off over time.

The Ti coating on the forks wears off over time.

Also a good indicator of mileage.

The K1 1000. Nearly 10 years old and still a fucking rocketship :)

Spend a few bucks on the suspension and fueling and it's as good as any other bike out there today.

Are there reports of engines using oil? I have to fill er up every now and then....mine has run about 35.000 km's...

:dunno

The 01-04 1000's have had issues with the front-main wiring harness corroding.

+1 on this, check the connectors under the r/h side front fairing - pull them apart and check for corrosion on the spade terminals. Also the block connector between the stator/rectifier under the left hand front seat fairing - known to overheat and burn out due to poor connection, leading to charging problems. I had to bypass mine.

Brakes aint great, worth upgrading, I did Galfer rotors and braided lines which helped, but most people say upgrade the master cylinder as well... Brembo often recommended.

Otherwise solid. Engine is bulletproof. Hope to have mine rebuilt and race tuned at some point, funds permitting!

Also a good indicator of mileage.

Both sets I had (original and the waranty set) started showing wear of the TiN coating within a few thousand miles.

This revision solved that problem as well as the poor brake performance:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/radioflyer1k/februaryfotos/95e33739.jpg

I had issues with my headlight harness and also with my fan switch.....I was in daytona and my fan wasn't turning on had to hard wire it to the battery for the weekend....That's about it otherwise I ragged the hell out of it.....

K2 with 34K miles.

I had the set valve turning on the FI light but went to Yosh can and mid pipe and eliminated the issue all together. I think it was Bugman who had instructions on eliminating the FI light from illuminating after I did this. Crossing the servo wires and pulling one of the ECU wires was involved.

Other than that, it is the best machine of any type I have ever owned. Bought it new in 2002 and have never gotten tired of it.

ive pretty much done all of the above

new shock nissin callipers lines etc tre taper head races.

done all the connectors and servicing needed.

im very pleased with my k1 1000 and think its a stunning bike and cant really fault it .

you dont need to do any of the mods but they do improve an already fantastic road bike


if you want to track it a fork re-valve would be a good idea

whats the issue with the set valve you all are referring to? just about to get my 1k swap for the 600 an was wondering about this

whats the issue with the set valve you all are referring to? just about to get my 1k swap for the 600 an was wondering about this

SET valve is Suzuki's mid-pipe mounted exhaust valve. The actuator can fail causing the valve to sit in fully open position (which is perfectly fine) but the Fi light comes up on the dash. This is known as the c46 error, the fault code for this problem. You can either replace the actuator unit or just remove it, either leaving the valve in place or replacing the exhaust for an aftermarket version. To get rid of the Fi light on the dash a 5min wiring mod is required.

SET valve is Suzuki's mid-pipe mounted exhaust valve. The actuator can fail causing the valve to sit in fully open position (which is perfectly fine) but the Fi light comes up on the dash. This is known as the c46 error, the fault code for this problem. You can either replace the actuator unit or just remove it, either leaving the valve in place or replacing the exhaust for an aftermarket version. To get rid of the Fi light on the dash a 5min wiring mod is required.

ya i know what the SET valve is i just didnt know about the actuator problem. i have an aftermarket 2 bros so i guess im ok with this issue. thank you for the education on that though:cheers