02-22-2004, 09:40 PM
I am setting up my first bike for racing this year... I have done a few trackdays and various other items just like it... I am curious as to the easiest way to drill and lockwire the bolts. Also what ones I should do.. Unfortunatly I cant read the rulebook becuase its all in japanese but I have the just of what needs to be done and want to know what is the best way!!! Thanks guys...
02-22-2004, 09:51 PM
you'll need to lockwire the oil sump plug/oil filler plug. You will also need to fix the filter (put a jubilee clip around the filter, then lockwire this to the bike). You may also want to consider the caliper mounting bolts and the water filler cap. The process is the same for all. Get the bolt into a vice and, using a pedestal drill if possible, drill a small hole through the head of the bolt. Chamfer off the drilled hole to make it smooth or else you'll find the wire breaks off every time! Go steady - the drill bits are VERY easy to snap! Once you done them, find a suitable place to lockwire the bolts to on the bike. You can get washers that fit behind the nearest bolt which provide you with a place to lockwire to. Hope this helps.
02-22-2004, 10:42 PM
COBALT drill bits.... go slow and steady, dont push too hard with the drill, keep the bit straight or you can snap it easily. use WD40 or cutting oil to help the drill bits along.
you will need to wire any bolt relating to oil, exhaust, axle, and brake, among a few others.... there is a good listing of what should be done at WERA.com and examples of how to wire bolts together etc - check the 2004 rulebook over there at WERA. you need a big hose clamp to wire the oil filter to the bike too,
when wiring a bike its a good idea to cheack every bolt on the bike and make sure nothing is loose
02-22-2004, 11:31 PM
Set aside plenty of time to drill. If your planning on using a hand drill, then set aside even more time. its easier to remove all the bolts you're planning on drilling and using a dril press with a starter bit. Most vises have slots in the clamps to keep the 6-point head of most bolts perfectly level and straight. it may seem like more work to remove all the fasteners, but if its your first time, you will save lots of time and drill bits! i used 1 bit for for 8 fasteners until it finally got so dull it wouldnt cut anymore, but it never broke. When i tried using a hand drill, i went through 2 bits and didnt make it halfway through a single bolt. drill presses are very nice!! also it gives you the chance to re-torque everything just to be safe.
02-23-2004, 01:18 AM
Get a rule book to find out what needs to be safety wired. Then wire everything that you feel might come loose even if it is not required. Road Racing Worlds current issue has a good article on how to lockwire.
Get a drill press at Harbor Frieght for @ 40$. You will save that much in broken drill bits.
Get your drill bits from McMaster-Carr by the dozen in 1/16 size.
Buy a set of safety wire pliiers and consider a drill jig in metric sizes.
Use .032 stainless wire as the thin stuff breaks way to easy on installation.
K&N oil filters come with a nut drilled for safety wire. I can't say much about the filters but that drilled nuts seems like a neat idea. I never had much faith in the safety wired hose clamp deal but I've never had one come loose.
Make sure that when you install the wire it is pulling the nut in the direction of tightening.
02-23-2004, 01:35 AM
Thanks guys... No need to worry about knowing how to lockwire.. The weapons system (US NAVY) I work on requires everything to be lockwired. I just needed some advice on how to drill them for my bike.. THanks guys..
02-23-2004, 05:03 AM
from the WERA rule book to give you an idea!!
GENERAL MACHINE REQUIREMENTS
Every racebike must be ready to race when it is brought to technical inspection.
All machines participating in WERA events, or events hosted by WERA affiliates, must prominently display the WERA decal (meaning the entire 4" circle) on both sides of their machine. Points and awards will be withheld from any racer who fails to display the WERA decals.
1. By participating in the event, the rider implies complete willingness to conform to WERA rules. Passing Technical Inspection does not give a racebike immunity from protest; if the Technical Inspector does not notice an illegal modification or a failure to conform to WERA requirements, the rider is still responsible for the racebike meeting WERA requirements; be it their own or borrowed. The Technical Inspector must inspect and pass every machine before it will be allowed on the track. The Technical Inspector will reject any racebike that does not meet WERA requirements. The Chief Technical Inspector may, at any time, re-inspect any racebike and revoke approval if the machine no longer meets WERA requirements. The Technical Inspector may at his discretion allow a “Temporary Fix” for a particular race weekend. Any rider who takes his or her racebike onto the racecourse when the racebike does not meet WERA requirements will be assessed a penalty for each infraction. The rider or his crew are required to point out any problems or potential problems with their racebike.
A rider or his crew will be allowed to make a safety-related fix at an event in order to participate at that event, provided the fix is not an illegal performance modification (at the discretion of the Chief Technical Inspector for that event). The rider must provide the damaged or broken part(s) along with a written request to the Chief WERA Technical Inspector of the meet and receive approval for said fix. This allowance will be limited to that event only and the correct part(s) must be installed prior to the next event.
2. All racebikes must meet WERA requirements. A racebike will not pass Technical Inspection and will not be marked with a Tech Sticker until the racebike is in complete compliance and the rider has completed and submitted his Contingency Tech Verification Form. If any of the items to be inspected are hidden from view by bodywork, those sections of bodywork must be removed prior to arrival at technical inspection.
a) The following item must be safety wired, or secured in a manner approved by Tech:
axles or axle nuts oil filler caps
axle caps and/or pinch bolts oil drain plug(s) removable exhaust baffles
brake caliper bolts *oil gallery plugs radiator caps
brake torque arms oil lines coolant drains
speedo and tach cables spin on oil filters/filter bolts any pressure fed lubricant line
*fork oil drain screws/bolts rear exhaust mount(s) (all)
*may be secured by silicone glue or H/D weather-strip adhesive in lieu of wiring.
Substantial gauge “R” type spring clips may be used in certain applications but must be wired to the machine. Tab washers designed to accept safety wire may be used. Safety pin style clips may be used on most items but NOT on oil drains or oil filters. A catch can shall be fitted where required or at the direction of a Technical Inspector.
b) Fuel lines and any other fluid carrying lines must be clamped or secured by some other appropriate means.
c) Water cooled engines may use plain water, or water with Redline (or similar product, call WERA for verification) cooling system rust and corrosion inhibitor at 0.5 ounces per quart of plain water concentration. Glycol based antifreezes are prohibited.
d) All pre 2001 Suzuki GSX-Rs must have engine case guards installed around the right and left sides of the engine, extending beyond the frame, and are subject to the WERA Technical Inspector’s approval. Case guards on the left side of 1995-97 Kawasaki ZX6R’s are suggested but not required. Yamaha FZR 400, FZR600 and YZF600 machines must have an engine case guard on the right side of the engine. Heavy-duty aluminum replacement covers may be used in lieu of case guards. Stock case covers with extra metal welded on to make them thicker may also be used.
e) Only one engine at a time may be used.
f) Only gasoline may be used as a racebike fuel. Nothing may be added to the gasoline except commercially available, approved octane boosters and lubricating oils. No oxygen or nitrogen bearing additives (i.e.: NOS) in any Superbike or Superstock based class.
g) All racebikes must have an operating and marked engine kill switch on the handlebars. Dead man tethers are allowed and are suggested.
h) All racebikes must have a self-closing throttle and operating front and rear brakes.
i) Kick-start levers must be removed.
j) Glass and plastic lenses must be taped. Clear tape may not be used.
k) Side and center stands must be removed.
l) A steering damper is MANDATORY on all machines and must be mounted in a safe and workmanlike manner. The damper must not overly limit the amount of stock lock-to-lock handlebar travel.
m) The license plate and bracket(s) must be removed.
n) Items are deemed safe only if secured in a visible, approved manner. Aircraft nuts, locknuts, Locktite or similar compound is not acceptable.
o) The seat or fender must extend toward the rear, past a line drawn vertically through the rear axle.
p) The rider, in position, must be fully visible from the side and top. Transparent material may not be used to circumvent this rule. No streamlining may be attached to the rider or helmet.
q) The machine must be clean.
r) Tires must be in good condition as determined by the technical Inspector. In Superstock Classes DOT Tires with an S or higher speed rating must be used. Tires must be of the original tread pattern and may not be altered or grooved. No recapped, retreaded, or off road knobby tires may be used in any class.
s) Tire valve caps must be used and should be metal or hard plastic.
t) If speedometer and tach cables are installed, they must be safety wired.
u) Sidecovers that “snap-on” must be removed, wired, taped or bolted in place.
v) All race machines must use muffling devices that limit the sound to 105dBA. The noise level will be measured while the machine is on the track during practice sessions and racing events. If a machine measures over the limit it may be subject to a “Meatball Flag”. A static test may be used off track to measure the noise level by holding the dB meter at 48 inches and at a 45 degree angle from the exhaust opening(s). The engine will be steady at 1/2 of redline during this test. If a machine measures over the limit with either test it will not be allowed to participate in any further events during the weekend until it has been brought under compliance. Riders may also be fined or otherwise penalized for non compliance. Certain race tracks may require lower limits and at these tracks those sound limits will be enforced and noted on race entry information.
w) Glass headlight covers must be removed. Plastic may be taped over or removed.
x) Clutch and Brake levers must have at least a 1/2" ball on the end.
y) Handlebar ends must have either: (1) end-plugs; (2) be solid; or (3) stock bar-ends must be retained. Handlebar ends may not be hollow or ground to a sharp edge.
z)All machines are required to have a lower fairing capable of holding 5 quarts of liquid. Machines not equipped with a lower fairing from the manufacturer may have a custom piece fitted. Any machine which has a newer or OEM “race” model may use the newer models fairing to comply with this rule (i.e. the TL1000S may use the lowers from a TL1000R). All lowers must be OEM spec with any necessary holes filled in. Lowers must be attached in a manner approved by tech.
aa) All machines must have a sticker placed on the triple clamp or gas tank reading “GP Shift” or “Standard Shift” depending on the shift patter used by your machine. These stickers will be available at tech.
bb) Brake pad retaining pins must be secured in a visible manner such as an R Clip or safety wire.
You can get lacing/safety wire and pliers from work or through Harbor freight for about $10-15 for the pliers!!
A drill press is adventageous when drilling in this instance!!! Cobalt drill bits are the best bits to use!!! Get creative on how you drill through some of the bolts!! The idea is to secure with the least amount of required work unless you like drilling!!!! Enjoy http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif